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So my old-rear end Creative 2.1 set I bought from Compusa are finally ready to be put to pasture: Been reading reviews and I feel like I've narrowed it down to the Logitech G560 and the Logitech z623. The z623 appears to have some issues with malfunctioning on arrival and both seem to have issues with being overly loud according to what I've read, plus I really could not care less about having RGB in my speakers. Can anyone provide insights to either product or suggest something else? Trying to keep the price tag around $200 or under. fake edit: system is being used for television/gaming primarily
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May 6, 2020 00:43
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I feel like below $200, new 2.1 systems are only going to involve sadness. You are better off with a pair of bookshelf speakers at that price point. You can get JBL 305p speakers for $109 each on amazon right now. Could buy a pair. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professi...ps%2C176&sr=8-1 The cheapest premade 2.1 system that might actually be usable would probably be this edifier set at $300. https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-Book...%2C159&sr=8-110 If money is tight your best bet is the used market though. Check craigslist. You can sometimes find some killer deals. Looking in my area right now, I can find complete 5.1 sets for less than $200. I don't know how much room you have (you mention watching television with these), but floorstanding speakers often go super cheap due to people moving. If you have the means to haul them away you can often get them for like 1/5 of retail. Filthy Monkey fucked around with this message at 09:41 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 6, 2020 08:48
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I listened to all the popular 2.1 systems under $150 and they don't sound very good compared to bookshelf speakers in the same $ range. I have a pair of Edifiers and pair of Mackies, the former are cleaner and louder but the latter have slightly more bass. Unfortunately the Mackies gave up the ghost after only 2 years and I haven't found a way to repair them and reading online it's a very common problem so I don't recommend that brand. The Edifiers have very annoying volume/treble/bass adjustments that reset when unpowered, also the volume knob spins freely and has no absolute bottom or top which is a stupid design. I think next time I'll go JBL.
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May 6, 2020 19:02
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I needed new pc speakers and I ended up getting elac debuts and a 12 inch klipsch reference. Modified room setup etc. It sounds about as good as anything I've setup before. It's currently being driven by a Sony home theater receiver but my real goal is to listen to 2.1. The receiver has a direct mode so it's good but could be better if pc went to a direct amp. What is the current solution? Pc optical to a dac to amp to speakers? Cheap solid state stuff This will be sending out music, games would be on headphones.
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May 7, 2020 02:51
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no pubes yet sorry posted:I needed new pc speakers and I ended up getting elac debuts and a 12 inch klipsch reference. Modified room setup etc. It sounds about as good as anything I've setup before. Why, exactly, does it matter that the signal go to a “direct amp?” I assume this means bypassing the gain stage on the preamp somehow (with like a “pure direct” mode or whatever). Seems like something weird to get hung up on, unless the computer audio adds some weird extra gain/noise to the signal, in which case something like a USB or optical DAC would eliminate that problem.
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May 7, 2020 03:27
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Ok Comboomer posted:Why, exactly, does it matter that the signal go to a “direct amp?” I assume this means bypassing the gain stage on the preamp somehow (with like a “pure direct” mode or whatever). More a concern about the internal amp in the home theater receiver. It does not want 2 channel sound and it especially doesn't want 2.1. You have to more or less trick it to let those channels play together, and when they do they are being affected by whatever surround profile they have to make 2.1 sound like 5.1. They goal would be a separate isolated amp for music that i'd switch over to home theater system for movies. Another oddity - I got my hands on a Sonos Connect:Amp. Anyone have any experience with it? Seems like it has plenty of power to drive the Elacs and has sub out. In that situation would I want to go directly to optical in or bluetooth dac or what? no pubes yet sorry fucked around with this message at 05:57 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 05:52
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no pubes yet sorry posted:More a concern about the internal amp in the home theater receiver. It does not want 2 channel sound and it especially doesn't want 2.1. You have to more or less trick it to let those channels play together, and when they do they are being affected by whatever surround profile they have to make 2.1 sound like 5.1. That sounds like a really lovely receiver. What is it? Maybe just replace that whole motherfucker outright? What’s your budget like?
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May 7, 2020 06:05
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Direct modes typically bypass the crossover and play 2.0. Put it in auto mode [I think it’s AFD on Sony].
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May 7, 2020 06:45
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Ok Comboomer posted:That sounds like a really lovely receiver. What is it? Maybe just replace that whole motherfucker outright? I am actually in a return period still - Best Buy gave me the wrong device, was supposed to be a 2.1 basic receiver, instead I got a home theater unit: str-dh590. Among the issues, the "music" button tries to output dolby to my nonexistant 5.2. To have it sound pretty ok you have to hit the 2CH button until you are on direct. This is not actually just analog bypass though because you can still manipulate equalizer. I just want a clear signal with maybe a bluetooth dac or something. It sounds "good" when its on that but its crazy wack. It is as complicated as any sony device that i can remember, needlessly - tons of abbreviated setting names and whatnot, no physical manual. I can't wait to return it, as it sits it sounds incredible but I know it is being throttled big time. Anyway, I've got a couple hundred I could spend after returning that massive pile of poo poo. I might end up getting a home theater receiver later but i would just separate the connections. Hah: Relations between sound fields and speaker outputs: : No sound is output. : Outputs sound. : Outputs sound depending on the speaker pattern setting and content to be played back. 1) Outputs sound when you connect a subwoofer and set the speaker pattern to a setting ("x.1") that has an active subwoofer. 2) Outputs sound when you connect a subwoofer, set the speaker pattern to a setting ("x.1") that has an active subwoofer, and [Small] is selected for [Size] in [Speaker Setting] menu --- Some speakers or the subwoofer may not output sound, depending on the sound field setting --- https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1343547/Sony-Str-Dh590.html?page=33#manual --- It works fine as a home theater device I guess but if you are in any mode where it "outputs sound" to anything besides fr/fl/sw the overall wattage per channel gets axed and some sort of surround manipulation happens, cutting out parts so it is useless for music. no pubes yet sorry fucked around with this message at 07:13 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 07:02
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no pubes yet sorry posted:I am actually in a return period still - Best Buy gave me the wrong device, was supposed to be a 2.1 basic receiver, instead I got a home theater unit: str-dh590. Among the issues, the "music" button tries to output dolby to my nonexistant 5.2. To have it sound pretty ok you have to hit the 2CH button until you are on direct. This is not actually just analog bypass though because you can still manipulate equalizer. I just want a clear signal with maybe a bluetooth dac or something. There’s a ton of excellent 2.0/2.1/2.2 options out there at any budget. From like a $70 Loxjie triangle on up really.
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May 7, 2020 07:13
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Ok Comboomer posted:There’s a ton of excellent 2.0/2.1/2.2 options out there at any budget. From like a $70 Loxjie triangle on up really. What are the current winners? I'd be typically using the speakers for PC output so hdmi, toslink, USB or rca. I'd like to have the ability to use bluetooth but not a deal breaker as I could get a standalone bluetooth adapter but I am also unfamilar with those. Speakers can handle 120w per channel, 6 ohms. I could run line level to sub if amp doesn't have subout. Has anyone ever used a Sonos Connect:Amp? The one I will have access to is the older version, it can produce 55w per channel and is theoretically bridgeable.
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May 7, 2020 07:23
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no pubes yet sorry posted:What are the current winners? I'd be typically using the speakers for PC output so hdmi, toslink, USB or rca. I'd like to have the ability to use bluetooth but not a deal breaker as I could get a standalone bluetooth adapter but I am also unfamilar with those. Depending on when it was made older Sonos Connects and Connect Amps (pre 2015) are about to be EOLed into a reduced functionality penatly box.
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May 7, 2020 07:59
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I've navigated it to the point where I am outputting correctly on the receiver, it is just wildly difficult. If my wife wants to use it is is a maze of button presses and verifying sound fields etc. I kind of like a complicated receiver, reminds me of the 90s. Wrong tool for the application anyway. It looks like the Sonos device I have will be able to function as is. Since I am primarily using my pc for input I don't think it should be a big deal. The real goal is to get whatever small integrated or power amp or whatever is the current trend and let it be my amp and maybe a secondary device for inputs, bluetooth and optical ideally. I see a lot of stuff on amazon but I don't trust reviews. Audiophile forums are just bonkers. Any suggestions?
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May 7, 2020 08:10
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no pubes yet sorry posted:I've navigated it to the point where I am outputting correctly on the receiver, it is just wildly difficult. If my wife wants to use it is is a maze of button presses and verifying sound fields etc. Give us some budgets please. Like what are your “cheapo”, “midrange,” and “reach” goals? Does budget trump all? Sound quality? Aesthetics? Upgrade ability and expansion potential? Ease of use? Do you want the cheapest thing that will do the job or a more premium experience?
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May 7, 2020 08:33
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no pubes yet sorry posted:I've navigated it to the point where I am outputting correctly on the receiver, it is just wildly difficult. If my wife wants to use it is is a maze of button presses and verifying sound fields etc. As far as the rest of the market there's a price floor probably around $300-400 for stuff that hits that feature/usability balance. "Not being lovely to use" is something that costs money to design and build but there's also expensive gear that gets it wrong. I can't tell where you want to get to, is it connected to a TV? Categories of amplifiers by increasing price:
Your current Sony sounds like a dog, if you can't get it to sound right all the time I'd return it while you can even if an AVR is the right solution. Also I know the Sonos Connect has an input but I'd check it for delay, could mess up lip sync. It is a small amplifier and if you don't want other Sonos gear it could work OK.No bluetooth though.
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May 7, 2020 08:40
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There are a couple little streaming amps out there that could work. This Yamaha for $350 is one I was looking at, but didn’t ultimately go for cause it doesn’t have bass management that I want (which I don’t think will matter to most people): https://www.crutchfield.com/S-OVVFf...DCABEgIgs_D_BwE
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May 7, 2020 15:50
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I get a hum or buzz through my speakers and headphones, what can I do to make that stop?
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May 7, 2020 18:55
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wormil posted:I get a hum or buzz through my speakers and headphones, what can I do to make that stop? Ground your system, which could be anything from the wiring in your home, cables, wall outlets, components in your computer. It can be hard to track down what is causing it. Otherwise you can get a USB or Optical DAC to drive your speakers and headphones. Generally if it is going through both your speakers and headphones that kind of grounding problem can be a long term issue and harmful to electronics, so it is probably worth in the long term to figure out what the issue is if you are living somewhere long term.
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May 7, 2020 19:19
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Djarum posted:Ground your system, which could be anything from the wiring in your home, cables, wall outlets, components in your computer. It can be hard to track down what is causing it. Otherwise you can get a USB or Optical DAC to drive your speakers and headphones. Would a upc/power conditioner help? I tested the outlets and they are grounded and wired correctly, not sure what else to do.
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May 8, 2020 00:06
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wormil posted:Would a upc/power conditioner help? I tested the outlets and they are grounded and wired correctly, not sure what else to do. From my knowledge if the issue is coming from the outlet a sine wave ups should solve the line noise. If you have some big EMF in the room from something else it won't solve the issue I don't think unless you installed isolating ferrous rings or whatever they are called.
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May 9, 2020 02:02
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Recommendations for a very small sub $200 2.0 setup that doesn't completely suck? I'd like to put two speakers next to a short throw projector (3.5mm out) for gaming/movies/casual music listening.
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May 13, 2020 21:19
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We pretty much tell everyone who wants something cheap to get the JBL 305P, it's actually on this page as a recommendation, but it would be $220. Though, I guess that depends on what you mean by small.
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May 13, 2020 22:11
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Taima posted:We pretty much tell everyone who wants something cheap to get the JBL 305P, it's actually on this page as a recommendation, but it would be $220. Though, I guess that depends on what you mean by small. $220 is fine; I just want to make sure it's not poo poo for the price just because it's small. Thanks! Actually, those are too big for my purposes. drat. space marine todd fucked around with this message at 22:24 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 22:21
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no pubes yet sorry posted:I know it is being throttled big time. What do you think is being throttled, exactly no pubes yet sorry posted:I've navigated it to the point where I am outputting correctly on the receiver, it is just wildly difficult. If my wife wants to use it is is a maze of button presses and verifying sound fields etc. This makes me think you either don't have it set up properly or it is actually broken. Switching from one input to another should not involve "a maze of button presses and verifying sound fields etc."
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May 13, 2020 22:51
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space marine todd posted:$220 is fine; I just want to make sure it's not poo poo for the price just because it's small. Thanks! Would a sound bar work?
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May 13, 2020 23:09
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space marine todd posted:Recommendations for a very small sub $200 2.0 setup that doesn't completely suck? I'd like to put two speakers next to a short throw projector (3.5mm out) for gaming/movies/casual music listening. Are these too big? https://www.fluance.com/powered-2-0-bluetooth-active-5-inch-bookshelf-speakers-bamboo
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May 13, 2020 23:12
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Taima posted:We pretty much tell everyone who wants something cheap to get the JBL 305P, it's actually on this page as a recommendation, but it would be $220. Though, I guess that depends on what you mean by small. They really (really) benefit from a preamp or volume control or interface of some sort, to the point where I say they kind of require it. Those can be had for super cheap (~$50) but it is an additional expense. I get annoyed with the blanket 305P recommendation to everybody who wanders in because 99% of normies expect computer speakers with stereo inputs and headphone passthroughs and accessible switches and such, not monitors. You can run a headphone/aux-to-dual 1/4” cable to a pair of 305P really easily and cheaply, and control the volume from your source, but it’s a really jank-rear end way to do it and you risk damaging something. It’s definitely not the “seamless painless plug-and-play” experience that most people are looking for out of their multimedia gear.
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May 14, 2020 01:17
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bird with big dick posted:What do you think is being throttled, exactly Check out this document: Shot: https://helpguide.sony.net/ha/strdh59/v1/en/contents/TP0001560176.html Chaser: https://helpguide.sony.net/ha/strdh59/v1/en/contents/TP0001559306.html That is all new stuff to me since I've never dealt with a avr before - it is manageable but nothing really sounds clear, it all has some level of hollowness? something like that. Not sure what I should be setting it to for 2 passive speakers and a powered sub for music. It is wildly different depending on the setting. I got a sonos connect:amp for comparison a couple days ago and it is extremely clear and good but doesn't have enough power to really handle the speakers. I think my next step is to throw a decent dac in before the receiver and see if that takes out the boxy sound.
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May 14, 2020 02:14
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space marine todd posted:Recommendations for a very small sub $200 2.0 setup that doesn't completely suck? I'd like to put two speakers next to a short throw projector (3.5mm out) for gaming/movies/casual music listening. From my experience... the Edifier R1280T sound very good for the price if you don't mind resetting treble/bass after power outages. wormil posted:I listened to all the popular 2.1 systems under $150 and they don't sound very good compared to bookshelf speakers in the same $ range. I have a pair of Edifiers and pair of Mackies, the former are cleaner and louder but the latter have slightly more bass. Unfortunately the Mackies gave up the ghost after only 2 years and I haven't found a way to repair them and reading online it's a very common problem so I don't recommend that brand. The Edifiers have very annoying volume/treble/bass adjustments that reset when unpowered, also the volume knob spins freely and has no absolute bottom or top which is a stupid design. I think next time I'll go JBL.
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May 14, 2020 06:28
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no pubes yet sorry posted:Check out this document: Receivers like that are meant to be configured via OSD on a TV hooked up to the HDMI port. You could hook a monitor up temporarily to do the setup and configure what speakers you actually have. Alternatively, I like accessories 4 less for buying stuff like this because you get a HUGE discount for buying refurbished. Most of their 2 channel receivers are out of stock, but this one has everything and the kitchen sink, and it's pretty compact: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marmcr611/marantz-m-cr611-networking-cd-receiver/1.html
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May 14, 2020 07:38
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no pubes yet sorry posted:Check out this document: If you only want two speakers (and a sub, but you have lots of options there, including speaker-level connections if necessary) then get a 2 channel amp. Modern AVRs don’t really play nice as simple stereo amps and the really cheap ones have awful menu diving. I asked you for a budget before. I can’t really recommend poo poo without one, beyond saying that Yamaha, Onkyo, Denon, Marantz, all have good poo poo in their lineups. There’s weirder, more audiophiley companies like Schiit, Emotiva,and IOTAVX too. I would check out the stuff in the Yamaha AS line as a jumping off point. AS501 and AS701 are the two I’d recommend depending on your budget (The extra DAC features on the 801 are totally unnecessary and I assume the 301 is too underpowered for your needs). Both the 501 and 701 can be had from tons of retailers online and are often found on sale or refurbished so don’t pay retail from Yamaha direct.
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May 14, 2020 07:52
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wormil posted:From my experience... the Edifier R1280T sound very good for the price if you don't mind resetting treble/bass after power outages.
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May 14, 2020 13:15
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no pubes yet sorry posted:That is all new stuff to me since I've never dealt with a avr before - it is manageable but nothing really sounds clear, it all has some level of hollowness?
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May 14, 2020 13:27
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Also on the sub — usually you can adjust their phase too so it could be cancelling. From that menu I’d use the multi channel stereo setting with all effects off, but I dunno.
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May 14, 2020 16:15
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What would I need if I wanted to get one of those powered bookshelf speakers, like the JBL or Fluance posted earlier. But I need to have 2 computers be able to output at the same time and have a headphone plugin. I've got Mac Mini, so either USB or 3.5 output and I swap 2 computers into another monitor that I run its 3.5 output out of. So something small to sit on my desk, take the 2 inputs and then output to powered speakers w/headphone jack? Pretend I have a budget of $200 for this device. But I can go well over or under that if its something simple.
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May 14, 2020 18:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:They really (really) benefit from a preamp or volume control or interface of some sort, to the point where I say they kind of require it. Those can be had for super cheap (~$50) but it is an additional expense. All I know is they are really good (the best available?) for the price and controlling them in the manner you describe (via the source) is fine and I daresay quite normal for the vast majority of casual people 
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May 14, 2020 18:35
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Taima posted:All I know is they are really good (the best available?) for the price and controlling them in the manner you describe (via the source) is fine and I daresay quite normal for the vast majority of casual people A lot of projectors don’t have internal volume controls tho. They’re expected to work with a receiver via HDMI. I agree that they are wicked good. I have a set of these sitting in front of me right now.
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May 14, 2020 18:42
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phosdex posted:What would I need if I wanted to get one of those powered bookshelf speakers, like the JBL or Fluance posted earlier. But I need to have 2 computers be able to output at the same time and have a headphone plugin. I've got Mac Mini, so either USB or 3.5 output and I swap 2 computers into another monitor that I run its 3.5 output out of. Go to this website: https://schiit.com Look around among the headphone amps, the active and passive preamps, the DACs, and other such things. Something like a Magni 3 with a Sys ($150). Or a Magni+Modi+Sys($250). You could also spend a bit more for a bigger, all-in-one dealie like an Asgard with the DAC add in card ($300 total) or Jotunheim ($400-600). Jotunheim is pricey but it has balanced XLR outs which means it would play super nicely with monitor speakers like 305Ps, ADAMs, etc. But all of them can do the job well enough. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 19:00 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 18:55
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Ok Comboomer posted:Go to this website: https://schiit.com i assume the modi is still the gold standard for 'get the sound source out of the EM deathtrap of my PC case for $100' right? any new kids on the block worth trying out?
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May 14, 2020 22:52
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phosdex posted:What would I need if I wanted to get one of those powered bookshelf speakers, like the JBL or Fluance posted earlier. But I need to have 2 computers be able to output at the same time and have a headphone plugin. I've got Mac Mini, so either USB or 3.5 output and I swap 2 computers into another monitor that I run its 3.5 output out of. opinion edit: I have strong dislike for Schiit, nothing wrong with their cheap things but their expensive stuff costs more than pro gear that measures much, much better. qirex fucked around with this message at 23:36 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 23:24
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