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From what I've seen the NSG370 is a mixed bag. Seems like it's easy to bend shift forks in them and cause other problems as a result. Also 2.5L TJs didn't get the AX15 or NV3550 - they got the absolute-garbage AX5. The 2.4L TJ is the only factory four cylinder I'd consider.
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Apr 27, 2020 19:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:From what I've seen the NSG370 is a mixed bag. Seems like it's easy to bend shift forks in them and cause other problems as a result. I've seen a few 2.4 Wranglers for sale but just dismissed them, maybe I should check one out next time I see one. There's someone selling a 2.5 with an automatic near me but I'm guessing it's a dog with that combo. I'm kinda torn on what to get....In my price range (10k tops) there are a lot of high mileage Wranglers and most of them seem beat to poo poo with minimal maintenance. And for some stupid reason I can't comprehend, there are shitloads of them from northern states (even Canada!) that have rust issues. I'm in Florida so gently caress that. So I'm trying to find my sweet spot..... Stock(ish), NO RUST, high miles are ok but good condition and well taken care of. Prefer 4.0 with an auto, altho manual AX15 is fine.... But it requires lots of driving around looking at a lot of crap and I'm about over it. Pictures look great, but in person not so much, a lot of these Wranglers get ragged on. I'm thinking about going to look at this one next, wheels are gaudy but overall it looks pretty nice I like the Sahara trim, what do you guys think? https://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/d/bradenton-jeep-wrangler-sahara/7110848208.html
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Apr 27, 2020 21:22
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I mean, I paid $4500 for mine, but it definitely falls into the category of "ragged on" and I've paid for some of that with fixing deferred maintenance. Of course, I also bought it specifically to beat on and wrench on. The 2.4 is probably also glacially slow but less so than the 2.5, and the NSG370 is easily a far better transmission than the AX5. No Wrangler is "quick". One thing to note on the automatics - they're only three speed non-overdrive for 97-02.
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Apr 27, 2020 21:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:I mean, I paid $4500 for mine, but it definitely falls into the category of "ragged on" and I've paid for some of that with fixing deferred maintenance. Of course, I also bought it specifically to beat on and wrench on.  Why wouldn't they just use the AW4?
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Apr 27, 2020 22:07
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Krakkles posted:
I wonder if they thought the total length would be too long? Better yet they went with the 42RLE instead of the AW4. And as a side bonus, 03-up Wranglers get a Mercedes-derived steering gear that is only used on 03-06 Wranglers, instead of the ubiquitous Saginaw-style.
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Apr 27, 2020 22:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:I wonder if they thought the total length would be too long? 
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Apr 27, 2020 23:02
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Well it looks like I had my Jeep running with really over-advanced timing for a while. Wonder why I did that in the first place, and I wonder what problems it caused. I bet it was at least partially responsible for the weird noises I'd hear accelerating at high RPM, or when I took my foot off the gas suddenly. Did it also play a part in the engine refusing to start if I went for a short drive and then e.g. parked for 15 minutes to eat lunch? Who knows!
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Apr 27, 2020 23:06
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Krakkles posted:Make them all LJs, problem solved  If they didn't command a crazy price premium I would have been all over a LJ instead.
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Apr 27, 2020 23:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:
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Apr 27, 2020 23:15
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so i might have done something really dumb this weekend. there was a diesel sport s with the exact options and in the exact color i wanted near me so decided to do a test drive since it was my birthday weekend 4 hours later it was parked in my garage it's nice to be back in one after i sold my 04 rubicon since my ex hated camping or being outdoors in general
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Apr 28, 2020 03:21
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For what purpose have you summoned me? 
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Apr 28, 2020 19:05
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Stupid hypothetical ahead. I was watching Mad Max and began wondering what would be required to get a 90s Cherokee operating without a computer. Just slap a carburator on? Change to an internally regulated alternator? Fiddle with the ignition system? Give up and swap in a prohibition era flat-head Ford?
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Apr 29, 2020 04:57
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Are EMPs going off continuously? Seems like you could have a computer in mad max world, though maybe not a stock computer eventually (unfortunately I don't have the answer to the other half of the question really but you'll need a distributor in addition to the carb
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Apr 29, 2020 05:05
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Cat Hatter posted:Stupid hypothetical ahead. Well the 2.5 engine was available carburetted, although in my 86 it's theoretically computer controlled as is the ignition. Mine seems to do ok with half the carb controls off. I could replace the carb with a Weber but the coil would still have the computer interface; that's probably bypassable but I'm not sure how much work would be needed.
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Apr 29, 2020 05:16
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I'm not completely convinced that RENIX was actually electronic or did anything at all
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Apr 29, 2020 05:25
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Don't. Unless there's a military EMP, all you'll have to do to make the Jeep run again is pull the battery cables and reseat them after the event is over. Going backwards is pointless.
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Apr 29, 2020 06:12
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beanieson posted:For what purpose have you summoned me? To be jealous, mostly. Gonna go all  . Getting a 31-spline disc-brake 8.8 set up with an Artec truss, ARB locker, and 4.56 gears, along with 4.56 for the front D30. Looks like I just need to add some form of reservoir to my current onboard air setup instead of spending $200 on ARB's tiny compressor. Could do a Viair 0.5 or 1 gallon tank underhood somewhere most likely, or maybe just use a section of pipe along the inside of the driver's frame rail?
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Apr 29, 2020 16:31
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kastein posted:Don't. Oh I have no intention of ever doing it. It started way back when people showed you could hack a modern Cherokee as a proof of concept and aside from joking about driving a Jeep designed to fight Cylons, it got me wondering if it would even be feasible to ditch the computer entirely if you were some "computers are the devil" madman who erroneously thinks carbs beat fuel injection. I'm giggling a bit at the thought of a bunch of Road Warriors working on a car "Does anyone know the pinout for this LS without using the internet? poo poo, just bring me a worse engine"
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Apr 30, 2020 00:35
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Quick Jeep question, I finally replaced all my tie rods, all the adjustment tubes, even threw on an adjustable track bar. Even after an alignment where I asked for my steering wheel to be straightened, which it isn't just right, it still seems to shake at highway speeds. Got underneath myself yesterday to do an oil change, and noticed the pitman arm is still off center and have some cupping on the inside of the tires, but I can't be positive if this could be from the bit of driving I'd done before everything new had been put on and adjusted. It really wasn't that much driving. The only other things I could think that would cause this tire wear would be control arms? Aside from those, ball joints, which have been whanged on during inspection and when putting on the new stuff, the only stuff still left is like, sway bar bushings. Any other ideas?
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May 4, 2020 04:55
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The obvious is tire balance. Is the shaking at all speeds or just a range? Also tire pressure, cupping could be from low pressure. I scored a bunch of low milage JK control arms on the local FB group, which also led me to find my shocks were shot. After I get the shocks installed, my 2011 suspension will be nearly completely replaced. Last up is doing the gear change. A semi local guy is selling 2 axles with 3.21s for $700. I have the same set in better shape, worth it to do the job on the side?
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May 7, 2020 00:49
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85 CJ-7, 2.5L engine. When it gets up to high-ish rpm, I frequently hear a noise from the engine compartment which sounds... kinda like a dentist's suction tool? I don't think it's the belts... I've noticed there seem to be some bolts missing on the intake and exhaust manifolds, would that sort of high-rpm whooshing noise make sense if there's a leak at the manifolds? I can't seem to localize it in the engine bay, because when I get it throttled up high enough to cause the noise it's so loud I just can't figure out what's what.
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May 10, 2020 05:45
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Maybe, except that it seems like at high load there shouldn't be much vacuum? Unless the noise is actually an exhaust leak, but those usually sound more like rod knock. I'd get some carb cleaner / propane around there to see if it's got a vacuum leak. Unrelated, I'm in no rush to sell the old NP231 out of my TJ thanks to COVID, but I've now given myself two bruises / gashes on my ankle from smashing my foot into it as I walk past it in the garage. 
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May 11, 2020 06:25
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Drove a 2.4 MT Wrangler today....Not impressed  At least that narrows it down now.
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May 11, 2020 20:30
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Was rear ended at a red light today. Primary concern* is the "frame" kinked where the tow hitch receiver pushed forward. This moved the leaf spring shackle mounting points forward and the rear axle isn't perfectly straight anymore. The rear passenger door doesn't open but the rest are fine (Tailgate probably not so much). Exhaust hanger broke and muffler is rubbing driveshaft. Fred Flintstone hole allowed driver's seat to partially break loose.  *Actual primary concern is insurance totaling the car. I learned to drive on this Jeep and would prefer to continue to do so.
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May 11, 2020 21:14
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That's pretty proper hosed. I'd be shocked if it isn't totalled.
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May 11, 2020 22:02
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Yeah I'd strip all the good parts like seats, etc. before sending it to the insurance wreckers and then keep an eye out for a clean one on craigslist.
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May 11, 2020 22:09
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Yeah dude that's 150% totalled. Literally no way they're going to spend what it would take to repair that on a unibody vehicle. E: one of my favorite build threads ever started from a wreck exactly like yours, actually. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=956040 kastein fucked around with this message at 22:26 on May 11, 2020 |
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May 11, 2020 22:17
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What were the Grand Cherokee V-8s that fall apart on a warm day or are full of sand?
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May 11, 2020 23:16
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Drove a 2.4 MT Wrangler today....Not impressed Not surprised. The 2.4 is better than a 2.5 but that really isn't saying much. A little more power and a not-glass manual transmission. Theoretically you could SRT swap it. I'm kinda excited to see what my TJ will be like once it has 4.56 gears in it kastein posted:Yeah dude that's 150% totalled. Literally no way they're going to spend what it would take to repair that on a unibody vehicle. An amazingly relevant link, but agreed - time to start making your arguments for replacement value. Cat Hatter posted:What were the Grand Cherokee V-8s that fall apart on a warm day or are full of sand? All of them since the ZJ? ZJs have the 4.0 six or the 5.2/5.9 Mopar V8s, which are reasonably reliable. WJs have either the 4.0 (often with the head that will crack, and with a not-so-great transmission) or the 4.7 V8, which makes fun noises but will overheat if you look at it funny, and drops valve seats when it does. WKs can have the 3.7 (4.7 minus two cylinders and with all the same problems), the 4.7, or a variety of HEMIs. I think the sand in the cooling system was mostly a JK thing.Is it just me or is the cheap Wrangler market a bit hosed right now? One of my wife's friends is looking for a CJ or TJ, cheap, and there's absolutely fuckall out there that's priced even close to what I paid for mine a year ago.
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May 11, 2020 23:26
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So quick question; The girlfriend and I were performing a transmission flush and she was tightening back up the drain pan and accidentally stripped one of the pan bolts. It wasn't leaking at the time but a few weeks later I did notice some transmission fluid on the driveway so it's definitely leaking. How difficult is it to drill out and tap a new hole for the bolt? They are special bolts so I can't just go out and buy a larger bolt so I'm thinking of doing this myself but I've never actually tapped a hole like this before. Should I have a mechanic do it?
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May 12, 2020 20:59
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McDeth posted:So quick question; The girlfriend and I were performing a transmission flush and she was tightening back up the drain pan and accidentally stripped one of the pan bolts. It wasn't leaking at the time but a few weeks later I did notice some transmission fluid on the driveway so it's definitely leaking. I did this in my xj. Tapped a new hole and I think used a helicoil and it’s been good for years now. rally fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 12, 2020 |
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May 12, 2020 21:21
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rally posted:I did this in my xj. Tapped a new hole and I think used a helicoil and it’s been good for years now. Just watched a how-to video on helicoils. Seems straightforward, thanks.
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May 13, 2020 02:18
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So I'm kind of interested in an '01 4.0 Wrangler that's at a good price but has a "slight miss" is that a red flag?
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May 14, 2020 17:39
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Better than a direct hit.
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May 14, 2020 17:43
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May 14, 2020 17:59
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The most likely worst-case scenario is a cracked head, since that's right in the year range of heads with bad castings.
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May 14, 2020 18:05
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Am I remembering correctly that the Hemis that they put in Grand Cherokees were fairly reliable?
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May 14, 2020 18:18
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Cat Hatter posted:Am I remembering correctly that the Hemis that they put in Grand Cherokees were fairly reliable? 95k on mine so far and nothing has exploded, yet.
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May 14, 2020 19:25
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So I'm kind of interested in an '01 4.0 Wrangler that's at a good price but has a "slight miss" is that a red flag? Be more worried about possible coolant into oil contamination than a slight miss. Unless it has a bad noise as well in which case it may be a cracked skirt. Check if it's a TUPY 0331 (good) or regular 0331 (bad) head casting, either way check oil pressure and find out when the head was replaced if it's a TUPY. Often people had them replaced after they contaminated the oil and it damaged the bearings.
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May 14, 2020 20:28
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kastein posted:Be more worried about possible coolant into oil contamination than a slight miss. Unless it has a bad noise as well in which case it may be a cracked skirt. Check if it's a TUPY 0331 (good) or regular 0331 (bad) head casting, either way check oil pressure and find out when the head was replaced if it's a TUPY. Often people had them replaced after they contaminated the oil and it damaged the bearings. Ok, think I'm just gonna pass on this one. What years have the problem heads? Am I better of just staying away from those years? [e] Looks like from 2000 into 2002. gently caress, I was gonna look at an '02 Sahara as well! Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 22:58 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 22:55
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