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tater_salad posted:1. you can use tirerack to find equivlent sizes of steelies and tires that will match your OE total diameter / circumfrence. Piggybacking off this - you can also use this handy thing to figure what size tires to shop for when you go smaller on wheels: https://tiresize.com/calculator/
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May 12, 2020 21:51
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1) you need to make sure whatever you get fits over the brakes. Check out the local salvage lot. I did that the last couple of times when I needed wheels and it was pretty comparable to getting steelies.
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May 12, 2020 22:18
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I've had issues with this car for the longest time and I think I'm ready to throw in the towel. 2012 Mazda 5 where the gears feel like they're slipping, especially gears 2-3 (downshifting). It's an automatic with 120k on the odo. Pretty much all the replaceable parts (within reason) were replaced/cleaned. Throttle body cleaned, new filters, new oil, new tranny fluid (flushed it twice in the past 3 years), new spark plugs, new battery. All of that stuff was mostly done due to maintenance anyway, but I've had this tranny issue for the past 2 years now and am afraid the tranny is just about to blow up. I had the tranny fluid flushed two weeks ago. It was bright red and after a few days stayed red. I checked it just now after a drive and it's a dark brown.. What could be causing this? I guess the only real answer is to bring it to a trustworthy mechanic, but I think in any case it'll be an expensive fix, right? The car seems like it's worth 3-4k now and I think fixing anything else on it at this point will cost me 1k, not including other issues that could crop up (random rubber pieces will probably start to go bad soon). Any thoughts? I think I should just trade it in or sell it at this point and buy something new. Most of the mechanics near me are closed nowadays (well, there was one but they had a building fire recently..), so earliest I could get it looked at is probably late this month once things start to open up more.
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May 12, 2020 22:52
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Uthor posted:1) you need to make sure whatever you get fits over the brakes. While true, I'd bet the base CR-V still comes with some relatively small wheels. My '13 had 16" and it could probably have fit smaller. tater_salad posted:5. Most modern cars require a weight only available in synthetic, use what is recommended in the manual. My Sienna is hardly a luxury vehicle but it takes 0w20 which is synthetic only. Pretty sure Honda is 0w20 almost exclusively at this point, and yes there's no non-synthetic options for 0w20. The cost difference is so small anyway.
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May 12, 2020 23:11
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Thanks everyone, that's good info and I'll check out a scrapyard for some tires over the next few months to see if I can find anything 18 or 19" for the same price as steel 17" as recommended. I had completely forgotten Tirerack has that compatibility check too. Does it matter if I select a 45mm or 35mm offset? I understand it has some bearing low vs high profile tires, is there a general rule of thumb for winter tires specifically?
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May 12, 2020 23:19
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Bank posted:I've had issues with this car for the longest time and I think I'm ready to throw in the towel. 2012 Mazda 5 where the gears feel like they're slipping, especially gears 2-3 (downshifting). It's an automatic with 120k on the odo. ...A torque converter fulI of burnt fluid. Unless there is a drain bung on the TC, you'll never get it drained without removing it.,...or pulling one of the cooler lines off of the radiator, and running it through the gears with the enginer running...although the thought of pumping the trans dry gives me the willies. Change the fluid out at least twice more in the next 500-1000- miles. It should stay 'redder.' See if that stops the slipping.
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May 13, 2020 00:04
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Do I need anything special for a Toyota hybrid 12v battery or is any standard lead-acid that is the right size okay? I see some really expensive ones and some average price ones, I'm not sure if I need anything fancy for the hybrid.
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May 13, 2020 00:25
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PainterofCrap posted:...A torque converter fulI of burnt fluid. Unless there is a drain bung on the TC, you'll never get it drained without removing it.,...or pulling one of the cooler lines off of the radiator, and running it through the gears with the enginer running...although the thought of pumping the trans dry gives me the willies. I suppose I can give that a shot. The place I go to is a drive through so I'm certain they changed it out (I sat in the car and saw them doing it). Another $150 on this car (2x fill+drain) won't kill me..if it turns brown fast again though, I think I'm done with this thing. The tranny is probably in such bad shape I'll let someone else swap it out.
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May 13, 2020 00:41
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Bank posted:I suppose I can give that a shot. The place I go to is a drive through so I'm certain they changed it out (I sat in the car and saw them doing it). Another $150 on this car (2x fill+drain) won't kill me..if it turns brown fast again though, I think I'm done with this thing. The tranny is probably in such bad shape I'll let someone else swap it out. It isn't about if they change the fluid, It's just the nature of changing transmission fluid. You never get it all in one go.
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May 13, 2020 01:59
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This is pretty much the definition of a stupid question. Is it possible to put together a full car (say a 1968 Plymouth GTX?) using parts catalogs? I was watching one of the videos posted in the awful car stuff, and I realized I'd totally end up falling for one of those "looks fixed but is actually poo poo" cars. I don't really have anyone that would be willing to travel with me to look at a potential car, and i certainly don't know what the hell I'm doing. I don't give a poo poo about numbers matching or anything, I just want a cool rear end car and not to get hosed over in finding one. The factory five cars seem like the perfect example, but I don't really want any of the kits they sell enough to spend 30+ grand on them (when you factor in paint, engine, rear, wheels and tires).
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May 13, 2020 16:02
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It is absolutely possible to do it, but in most cases it will legally be easier if you start with something that at least has a VIN and a title attached to it. On trucks, for example, I've seen titles and cabs sold together with nothing else attached. Edit: rereading your post, if cost is a concern, you really do want to start with the nicest car you can get first. Just because you can buy all the parts does not make it cheaper than buying a good condition car, especially if you aren't picky about originality / matching numbers. Aftermarket parts add up super fast, and we aren't talking about modern production tolerances. Even the best aftermarket stampings for vintage sheet metal will require bodywork to line up. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 16:20 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 16:18
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My take home message from that video I posted is to never buy cars that look "mint" if they haven't documented the restoration and/or you have someone inspect it. He has another video comparing one of those doctored cars with an honest one where you can see rust etc, but it looks better. I've come across those doctored cars and one dead giveaway is lovely overspray that you won't spot unless you look for it and go into the details.
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May 13, 2020 17:30
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Noted. I think I'm just going to continue to save money and watch a shitload of youtube videos (and probably post in here) if I find something. Thanks
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May 13, 2020 17:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:It is absolutely possible to do it, but in most cases it will legally be easier if you start with something that at least has a VIN and a title attached to it. On trucks, for example, I've seen titles and cabs sold together with nothing else attached. If i recall from the trucker thread.. I believe for 18 wheelers this is becuase the old cab/title is able to be used with an older engine that doesnt' have DEF etc. you can buy a new frame and new "old style" engine etc that you stick the cab on and bam you have an old truck but it's not really old but loopholes out of regulations. Don't quote me on this.
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May 13, 2020 18:32
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tater_salad posted:If i recall from the trucker thread.. I believe for 18 wheelers this is becuase the old cab/title is able to be used with an older engine that doesnt' have DEF etc. you can buy a new frame and new "old style" engine etc that you stick the cab on and bam you have an old truck but it's not really old but loopholes out of regulations. Don't quote me on this. I'm pretty sure you're right for big trucks, I was thinking half ton type stuff. You can buy a C10 cab with a title since that's the only piece of bodywork that actually has a VIN on it, and buy literally everything else aftermarket. You can buy a reproduction cab too, but I think most DMVs would look at you funny if you literally had nothing with a VIN. I've even seen some people selling just the VIN tag or the A-pillar with a title, which would probably run afoul of some ship-of-Theseus statutes. Not that it would be that hard to rivet it on in a way that looks factory.
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May 13, 2020 18:42
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Look up "glider kits". They're basically brand new big rigs that come without a drivetrain (no engine, no transmission, no rear axle). Some states have cracked down on this, some haven't, and the EPA is definitely trying to crack down. You probably won't be able to legally drive into California with one. I'm not quite sure how they get titled - similar to a kit car maybe? I know the regulations allowing them were originally meant to just allow you to reuse the guts from a wreck in a new frame/chassis. They come with an incomplete VIN (like a cutaway van chassis that eventually gets turned into a box truck or a smaller bus), but need various inspections before getting titled.IOwnCalculus posted:It is absolutely possible to do it, but in most cases it will legally be easier if you start with something that at least has a VIN and a title attached to it. On trucks, for example, I've seen titles and cabs sold together with nothing else attached. This. You want that factory original VIN tag and whatever it was riveted to.
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May 13, 2020 18:48
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How can I safely tap into power in my car to add electrical accessories? I have a 2014 WRX, and I wanted to add a backup camera to my car and two small strips of LED lights to help illuminate the trunk of the car when it is dark out (no colors just white). I have mounted the reverse camera and the LED lights, and ran/connected wires for them from the rear of the car to the A pillar on the driver’s side where there is a small fuse box, under the dash by the clutch pedal. I had wanted to wire these two things into the power for the car by taking a “Car Fuse Holder Connector Extension Adapter Mini ATM 32 V 20 Amp 16 gauge 11.5 in” And plugging that into a spare slot in the fuse box that isn’t used. This unused fuse slot will stop getting power if the keys aren’t in the ignition and it isn’t turned to on or acc. There is a ground point right by the fuse box. The backup camera is made by my stereo manufacturer (Kenwood), According to the manual The backup camera uses .5 amps and has a 2 amp fuse included. There’s a positive/negative wire, an RCA connector for the stereo, but no trigger wire. I assume this means that when the car is on the backup camera is always active. The LED lights I was going to drive with a small device called a FemtoBuck LED Driver. The Femtobuck accepts a 12v input and will drive the lights with a relatively small current (0-350mA depending upon dimmer settings). I was going to take the Femtobuck and wire it to an "auto mirror fold in" toggle switch that is unused (the reason being for a stock look). The switch was an option only outside of the USA, so I was able to get a stock auto mirror fold switch that fits my dash panel from ebay for $10 along with a second dimmer wheel that is the same as the stock dimmer wheel the WRX already uses for the dash lights. Both the dimmer and toggle switch will fit into stock places in the dash and look completely stock, but will control the lights in the trunk space only. With all that said, the main question I had was do I need to worry about a relay for the LED lights? It’s not high current draw, so I figured the auto mirror toggle switch would not be overloaded. I was going to wire in a 1 amp fuse for the LED lights but I’d rather not blow it all the time, or melt things/start a fire. If I need to wire the circuit in a better way, I'm not sure either way, so I wanted to ask. Will I also need something to step down the current available to the backup camera on the 12v system once it is wired into power? There’s no mention in the installation manual about that. They say to wire the camera into the same power source for the stereo, but I already tapped into that for something else and I don’t want to overdo it. Everything on Google says wire it to either the reverse light (not an option without hacking up the included already wired in Kenwood harness) or to wire it to the stereo power source. EDIT: I should also add that I have plenty of electrical terminal connectors, and I can also easily solder/shrinkwrap anything I need to with no issues. MasterOSkillio fucked around with this message at 20:41 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 20:28
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Dunno about the LEDs, but I generally see backup cameras hooked up to the reverse lights so the camera is only powered when those lights are illuminated (ie, when you are backing up).
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May 13, 2020 20:50
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You should fuse the LED driver (I.e., the whole circuit), and from what you're saying, 1A sounds like plenty. I'd check what the Femtobuck actually takes as input/draws, not what it drives as output, but I'd be surprised if it was a lot more. For your camera, you need to power the actual camera AND provide voltage to the headunit to indicate that it should switch to reverse mode. I'm not sure what the camera pigtail looks like, but something like this may simplify this quite a bit: https://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-...ps%2C224&sr=8-3 For some cameras, the voltage off of the backup lights (which you connect the red lead on that cable to) is also sufficient to power the camera, for some, I'd imagine you need more.
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May 13, 2020 21:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:It is absolutely possible to do it, but in most cases it will legally be easier if you start with something that at least has a VIN and a title attached to it. On trucks, for example, I've seen titles and cabs sold together with nothing else attached. Yeah you'll need a VIN to get insurance for it to be able to drive it on public roads. You'd need at least one VIN stamped piece from an original totalled car, one that nobody else did the same thing to. Then you can build your own Ship of Theseus! Also, I don't know if you'd get everything from parts catalogs. There would be some stuff I'd imagine that you'd get locally: fluids, tires, bulbs, nuts and bolts, etc. This reminds me of that episode of Roadkill where they made a street "legal" stock car.
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May 13, 2020 21:53
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Around here people license atvs for the road, surely I can register my frankencar Or maybe I just need to start with a 70s three wheeler
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May 13, 2020 22:02
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Uthor posted:Dunno about the LEDs, but I generally see backup cameras hooked up to the reverse lights so the camera is only powered when those lights are illuminated (ie, when you are backing up). The head unit is a Kenwood ddx9705s and the camera is a Kenwood CMOS-230. The camera comes with a 15-20ft chord and the positive/negative/RCA connection is in a protective casing/covering. I don’t really want to splice into that protective casing to get to a brake light, I think Krakkles is right. Kenwood doesn’t provide a harness that wires to a reverse light because they want you wiring up to a different power source. Krakkles posted:You should fuse the LED driver (I.e., the whole circuit), and from what you're saying, 1A sounds like plenty. I'd check what the Femtobuck actually takes as input/draws, not what it drives as output, but I'd be surprised if it was a lot more. Ok, I will check the current requirements for power going into the femtobuck, assuming it’s less then 1 amp there’s no need for a relay correct? The head unit has a reverse wire on it that goes into my wiring harness already. so the camera only has positive/negative/RCA. I am guessing because that is controlled from the head unit, it wasn't needed for the camera. As long as there’s no issue with my providing too much current by tapping into the dash fuse box for the rear camera I think it should be ok. I am really mostly worried about supplying too much current to the camera.
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May 13, 2020 22:45
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MasterOSkillio posted:Ok, I will check the current requirements for power going into the femtobuck, assuming it’s less then 1 amp there’s no need for a relay correct? The head unit usually has a reverse detection wire - as in, you supply 12v to indicate it's in reverse. If that's not already hooked into something, you're going to need to hook it up when you do this. It's possible that the headunit is somehow lowering the power going to the camera, but I'd be surprised - most automotive accessories are pretty clearly designed around having 12V fed into them. If the existing cord doesn't end in a USB plug, I'd bet on it expecting 12v. You could check this in the manual for the camera/headunit, of course - they should specify exactly what it's looking for. edit: Camera manual: http://manual.kenwood.com/files/B5A-0543-00.pdf 14.4v, which is code for "12v automotive system when the alternator is at full output". <50ma draw, so very small fuse should be fine. It should be noted: The diagram they show in this manual on page 6 is for using the camera as a camera attached to your car, not a reverse camera. You probably can leave the camera powered on at all times the car is running and use it as a reverse camera, but it's more typical to wire it to power on when reverse is selected. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:55 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 22:50
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MasterOSkillio posted:As long as there’s no issue with my providing too much current by tapping into the dash fuse box for the rear camera I think it should be ok. I am really mostly worried about supplying too much current to the camera. Current is on demand - it only exists because the device is drawing it. Connect your half amp (or whatever it actually is) camera to a supply rated at 1000 amps and it's still only going to draw half an amp. The reverse light circuit usually gets used for this role because its easier to tap than running a wire back from the fuse box. Look for an "add a circuit" - its an off the shelf product that connects to a fuse socket and provides a second socket for the original fuse in addition to a fused lead to connect devices or additional wire to. Geoj fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 23:03
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Krakkles posted:Useful stuff Ok, that's what I suspected, thanks!
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May 13, 2020 23:13
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Geoj posted:Current is on demand - it only exists because the device is drawing it. Connect your half amp (or whatever it actually is) camera to a supply rated at 1000 amps and it's still only going to draw half an amp. The reverse light circuit usually gets used for this role because its easier to tap than running a wire back from the fuse box. Look for an "add a circuit" - its an off the shelf product that connects to a fuse socket and provides a second socket for the original fuse in addition to a fused lead to connect devices or additional wire to. That makes sense, ok I get it. It's all a 12v system, so reguardless of amperage, the device won't be overwhelmed, because all of the devices were designed to draw amperage from a 12v power source. If the voltage went up appreciably then it might cause it to damage things. MasterOSkillio fucked around with this message at 23:38 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 23:23
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kid sinister posted:Also, I don't know if you'd get everything from parts catalogs. There would be some stuff I'd imagine that you'd get locally: fluids, tires, bulbs, nuts and bolts, etc. Not looking in the right catalogs, I've ordered something in every one of those categories before  I wonder what people do when they do a full frame-swap if the old frame wasn't scrap. Seems like a decent number of people buy a custom-built aftermarket frame because the total cost ends up similar to replacing the front/rear suspension entirely if you're doing something like a frame-laying airbag build. Grind off any/all VINs on the frame so nobody can try and steal the VIN associated with the vehicle you still own? Crush it anyway?
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May 13, 2020 23:53
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 This Costco battery is just over a year old. It’s dead but I hadn’t driven my car for quite a bit (yaaay Covid-19). Figured maybe I left a dome light on or something. I pulled the battery to hook it up to a charger and am now seeing this white residue. I think it’s not uncommon to see this on the terminals of an older battery, right? Should I be concerned about this white residue coming out of the top though? It’s Costco so well within their “limited” warranty period.
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May 14, 2020 04:30
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It's leftover crusty battery acid. Clean it off (carefully, it's acid) and pop the tops off of that thing. Is it sill full? It might have been overcharged and boiled off some. DO NOT top it up with tap water if it's low. Needs to be distilled. Ninja edit: it's dead - who cares. Bring it back. I missed that part.
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May 14, 2020 04:40
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AFewBricksShy posted:Noted. I think I'm just going to continue to save money and watch a shitload of youtube videos (and probably post in here) if I find something. Thanks This may interest you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ealQFHxp4HE It starts off as a beater 1966 Mustang. After tearing it apart almost nothing is salvageable, so the guy ends up building almost an entire car from aftermarket parts. A Mustang of Theseus. It's still technically a 66 Mustang, but there are almost no parts made by Ford on it. Big lesson: aftermarket parts usually don't fit quite right and require a lot of massaging to fit together properly. Guy's a real fussbudget about body work. Even if you don't want to do this yourself, there's a lot to learn from his videos about the process.
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May 14, 2020 04:41
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Motronic posted:Ninja edit: it's dead - who cares. Bring it back. I missed that part. This, especially because Costco will not dick you around by making you wait for them to throw it on a charger. Given the choice I won't buy batteries anywhere else anymore.
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May 14, 2020 05:48
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Speaking of frankencars, my idiot uncle is strongly suggesting I rip the cab off my downed truck and swap in on his untitled parts truck, plus rebuild his junker 350 (with blowby so bad the rings are just gone and I know the cylinders will need sleeved) and transmission just so I'll have a "good" mid-90's 3/4 ton and uggghhh. I can't convince him I want a reliable daily driver not an unending basketcase ongoing project. Hell, I've offered to sell him mine for $100 so he could do it himself but he's determined to drag me into his own vehicular hell alongside him and just will not shut. the. gently caress. up. about it. There's no stupid question here (except maybe the best way to hide a body), just venting.
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May 14, 2020 09:58
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rndmnmbr posted:Speaking of frankencars, my idiot uncle is strongly suggesting I rip the cab off my downed truck and swap in on his untitled parts truck, plus rebuild his junker 350 (with blowby so bad the rings are just gone and I know the cylinders will need sleeved) and transmission just so I'll have a "good" mid-90's 3/4 ton and uggghhh. I can't convince him I want a reliable daily driver not an unending basketcase ongoing project. Hell, I've offered to sell him mine for $100 so he could do it himself but he's determined to drag me into his own vehicular hell alongside him and just will not shut. the. gently caress. up. about it. Did you even think about how big a hole you have to dig to hide an entire truck body? It's not worth it.
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May 14, 2020 10:09
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MasterOSkillio posted:I have a 2014 WRX, and I wanted to add a backup camera to my car and two small strips of LED lights to help illuminate the trunk of the car when it is dark out (no colors just white). Not gonna comment on the camera, but why not just splice the LEDs into your existing trunk light? That way they're only on when the trunk is open. Remove the bulb and just tap into the wires to the socket. Sometimes you can even get a bulb to wire adapter (they usually come with LED panels that are meant to replace a "festoon" style bulb). Note that Subaru sometimes switches the negative for lights instead of positive, so it'd be best to wire the LEDs to both the positive and negative feeding the socket, instead of grounding the lights independently. (not sure if they still do that in 2014, but they sure as hell do it on my 2003 for most of the lights on the car) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:21 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 13:18
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KakerMix posted:I am extremely confident it's just a a dead dead battery. How old is it? Do you know? Is it original? I sure don't know. I've had the vehicle since 2018/46,000 miles and I haven't changed the battery in that time. STR posted:Hook up jumper cables, start the other vehicle, and just leave it for at least half an hour (after verifying power IS getting to the Canyon). It might help to hold the RPMs of the other vehicle around ~1500 for a little bit. That might get enough charge into the battery to at least let it try to start. GMs (well, most modern cars with 50 different control modules all on one network) get real weird when the battery voltage drops too low, especially since the engine computer controls the starter. I was only able keep the vehicles wired up for like ~15 minutes, and my truck did not start (still just clicking, no cranking or engine sounds). BUT all of the bizarre warning messages (ABS failure, stability, etc.) did not show up after the jump. I'm guessing that confirms the battery failure hypothesis. Anyways, my partner is going to try and pick up a new battery today, so we'll know for sure soon. Thanks folks
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May 14, 2020 20:45
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Good lord I feel dumb for asking. I'm trying to jump my Mazda 3 with my wife's Focus. The Focus' battery is half covered by cowling though, so I can't get the negative clamp on. Here's a picture taken off the internet of the situation:  Some videos identify the screw to the right there as a jump point. Do I attach the negative cable to that as a substitute for the terminal itself? I feel like the answer's yes but I also feel like I don't know anything about a car's electrical system.
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May 14, 2020 23:13
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Boxman posted:Good lord I feel dumb for asking. It's not a dumb question, and you're not dumb at all. Better to ask than to not ask, and/or fry something!
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May 14, 2020 23:18
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Yep and you could use any unpainted chassis bolt if you were feeling saucy.
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May 15, 2020 00:18
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I read that Toyota hybrid batteries can take longer than usual to recharge after getting low, is that accurate? I'm having a really hard time finding a replacement 12v battery, the few I've found say "Actually this isn't the same size but you can make it work" which I'm not a huge fan of when it's shoved in the side of the trunk in a weird spot. I'm wondering if it would be worth trying putting it on a battery charger for a few hours. I'd take the battery to an auto parts store to be tested but if it is a deep cycle battery like it seems to be, I'm not confident in a random Autozone employee being able to accurately tell me whether it's okay or not.
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May 15, 2020 05:42
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Krakkles posted:It's not a dumb question, and you're not dumb at all. Better to ask than to not ask, and/or fry something! Yeah pretty much this. 
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May 15, 2020 06:47
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