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'02 is when they started getting the fixed TUPY heads at the factory. My '02 has one.
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May 14, 2020 23:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:'02 is when they started getting the fixed TUPY heads at the factory. My '02 has one. For sure? From what I've been reading so far people are saying it went into '02 before they started fixing it at the factory. drat I remember reading about this back when I owned XJs too, forgot all about it.
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May 14, 2020 23:09
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I'm pretty sure it was a mid-year fix so at least some 02s have the bad head. You can confirm just by looking through the oil filler cap, at least.
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May 14, 2020 23:11
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Mid 02. It's not THAT big an issue if you catch it early. A TUPY swapped one that has good oil pressure, no lovely noises and oil that's not full of motor honey is fine. A non TUPY that hasn't washed out the bottom end is fine if you don't mind swapping the head yourself, which isn't a super hard job, it's a tractor motor. And you don't actually have to swap it till it fails, which happened anywhere from "before warranty was up" to never, just keep an eye on oil condition and coolant consumption. Basically, some of the lovely heads will crack no matter what, the rest, they could last forever or they could crack tomorrow, every heat cycle on the head increases your chances immeasurably, every overheat increases them substantially. The lovely pistons were 97ish through end of run in 06 as far as I know. They MAY have gotten rid of the issue on 02+ but I don't think so. You'll hear it coming and if you catch it before the piston turns into shrapnel in the bore and the conrod flaps around and beats the poo poo out of the cylinder walls all you gotta do is new pistons and rings and roll on. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:39 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 01:36
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Oh and don't forget that the oil pressure drive adapter/DIS pedestal thingus on 05+ loves to fail, which results in you losing oil pressure at speed. No such thing as a perfect Jeep, but there's an rear end for every seat.
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May 15, 2020 01:40
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Posting in here because a buncha you fabricate things. I need to make a custom drag link which needs some bends in it. I want to keep the ease of adjustability - so in a straight section I was going to weld in a couple of threaded tube inserts, L/R threaded, and then put something like this (quick maya model) inbetween them so I could tweak it's length:  Mirror thread, hex center. Does anyone sell these? Do they have a name? If not, how do normal people make adjustable bent drag links that aren't those wafer thin OEM double-threaded insert jobbies? I don't want to unscrew one end every time to adjust, and it's bent so i can't swivel it around on its own like a tie rod.
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May 15, 2020 05:18
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Is there any point in the steering range where you could swivel the whole rod even though it needs a bend in it? Just make sure to use the largest thread diameter you can of course, and ideally, put the adjuster at one end (ideally the end further from the nearest bend) so it has less leverage applied to it.
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May 15, 2020 05:28
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I mean, that's just the inverse of a regular tie rod adjustment sleeve, which has mirrored female threads on the ends.
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May 15, 2020 06:01
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I'm not saying this is a good idea, but that sure looks like a left handed and right handed bolt welded together.
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May 15, 2020 06:07
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kastein posted:Is there any point in the steering range where you could swivel the whole rod even though it needs a bend in it? I will keep a look out for this. kastein posted:Just make sure to use the largest thread diameter you can of course, and ideally, put the adjuster at one end (ideally the end further from the nearest bend) so it has less leverage applied to it. I will. I'm using 1.5 x 0.25 DOM for this so im using standard 1"ID fittings. Honestly I'm just asking if this bit of hardware even exists or has a name. Threaded inserts are so commonplace that surely there's an opposite.
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May 15, 2020 06:13
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I'm not seeing any here that are likely appropriate for this, but they definitely exist: double-ended bolts These seem to be the closest: LH to RH male thread adapters
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May 15, 2020 06:19
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Close, but yeah seems like it doesn't exist. I'll rethink my strategy. Maybe find some adjustable sleeve solution like IOwnCalculus mentioned. Unless I can just hand-tap 7/8th / 1" threads, I need to find poo poo I can weld together. Maybe I will just buy pre-threaded tube in the right diameter to match with a sleeve. This would also be a potential solution for a trackbar down the line.
tuna fucked around with this message at 06:41 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 06:38
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Male turnbuckles are a thing. Can you find the size you want? idk. e: Here is a 3/4" one. https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/JSI-12C ThinkFear fucked around with this message at 12:56 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 12:53
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What's wrong with leaving enough adjustment at the rod ends, so you can pop the drag link off the a steering arm and adjust the rod end in/out of the insert? A bit more of a pain, but it shouldn't need constant adjustment once it's dialed in.
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May 15, 2020 18:04
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Went and looked at the '02 Sahara.....Why do people think their Jeep is made of gold? This thing was clearly neglected, no TUPY stamp on the head and clear signs of over heating. And oh yeah bald tires. The guy said his "mechanic" said it was worth ten grand and that he would not take less than 8 for it. It was maybe worth 4 grand tops.
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May 15, 2020 20:41
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ThinkFear posted:Male turnbuckles are a thing. Can you find the size you want? idk. aha, 'turnbuckle' is the name! thanks! Still not the right size, but I've given up on this idea for now. Paulie posted:What's wrong with leaving enough adjustment at the rod ends, so you can pop the drag link off the a steering arm and adjust the rod end in/out of the insert? A bit more of a pain, but it shouldn't need constant adjustment once it's dialed in. Nothing  I'm still figuring out placement of things and this was me spitballing ideas and seeing if the hardware exists. Ideally if it was too stupid of an idea someone in here would yell at me. One of the placement ideas was to put the drag link on a heim connected to the double shear (not my image):  This would probably require a bend in the tube.But honestly I'm probably going to run a 5/8ths heim (or ream out a taper for 1-ton chevy balljoint) on top of the high steer shear arm for better geometry and more importantly, not likely to need a bend, and I won't have to worry about it at all. However I was still curious because if I do end up making bent track bars and such, further down the line - I'd still need to create a convenient way of resizing without removing it, just how most OEM bars have.
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May 15, 2020 21:50
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Question, If you guys had a choice between a late model 4.0 TJ or early model JK, with about the same miles, similar condition and price which one would you chose? It seems the market here is leaning towards TJs because there are a lot of early model JKs that don't seem to be selling while the TJs are getting snatched up almost immediately.
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May 16, 2020 21:11
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I like the TJ better, but I’m a 4.0 loyalist.
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May 16, 2020 21:15
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Yeah that's the direction I'm leaning because I've owned two 4.0 XJs and loved them. At this point I'm willing to pay more for a clean umolested TJ but those are proving hard to find. There's SO many JKs for sale but I just can't bring myself to want one. [e] Going to look at a '05 TJ tomorrow with 212k miles 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 22:32 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 21:18
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I grease monkey'd today. Finally a fairly productive weekend, if not thwarted for a while with a dead battery in the welding hood. I had to build a quick dolly for the axle pumpkin so I can easily move it around out and under the truck. Dollys are always kinda useful in different shapes and sizes.  And welding thick cheap steel together is always a good time for welding practice, which I sorely need.  The original dana60 sucks, so the new CUCV dana 60 im putting in is a huge upgrade: disc brakes, normal 8x6.5 lug pattern, kingpin, bigger axles, etc. I forgot to take pictures, but I cut and tacked together the tie rod together and have that attached to the double shear knuckles the other day. I went with double shear because it's a spring under axle arrangement, the stock tie rod locations on the CUCV knuckle would interfere with where the spring is, and a standard high-steer arm setup would be too high and interfere with the oil pan. The double shear lets me have the tie rod somewhere inbetween to my liking. I'm just getting it under the truck this weekend so I can start figuring out where to weld on the leaf perches, and I'll have to make something custom for the passenger side. Out with the old, in with the less-old.   And I got around to welding the leaf perches together, although one of them will need extensive cutting later on. 
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May 18, 2020 01:02
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That thing is already/going to be awesome.
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May 18, 2020 02:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:That thing is already/going to be awesome. Krakkles posted:There's an LJ Rubicon street parked in my neighborhood, and every time we walk by, I tell my wife I would make that mine in a heartbeat if I thought I could. I went and looked for video, and was not disappointed: https://ktla.com/news/local-news/officials-in-pursuit-of-vehicle-in-santa-clarita-area/ The video at the top of the page, ~1m23s, watch the lower edge of the frame. If that had been just a little bit different, I would definitely be offering to buy a transfer case right now
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May 20, 2020 20:25
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The last AI offroad adventure was a lot of fun! I'm up for another as long as I'm in town. I've been working on one thing after the next on my dumb Jeep. She's like an abusive girlfriend sometimes, but in the end she's good to me; better than any other abusive girlfriend I've had. I've had the TJ for 8 years today.
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May 20, 2020 20:48
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Are hub adapters/spacers generally ok for Wranglers going from TJ to JK/JL wheels? Wondering because There are TONS of brand new stock JL wheel and tire sets out there for sale cheap, like a set of five for $300/$400. If the adapters don't really wear on the bearings too much I may go this route with a TJ. Not planning on off roading, street use mostly. [e] Just noticed that the stud size is different between JK and JL too, form 1/2" to 14mm lol Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 14:45 on May 21, 2020 |
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May 21, 2020 14:27
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Spacers should be okay on a mostly street driven Jeep. I STRONGLY advise against them if you're going hard off-road, I've had to re-tighten mine twice after they loosened up and created a noticeable vibration in the Jeep. They were on there very tight, but they work loose, even against red locktight. I still have them on my Jeep because I haven't been able to find 17" rims with the right backspacing, but I won't take it on a rough trip now without taking off all 4 wheels and checking the spacers.
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May 21, 2020 17:17
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They're alright if you buy good quality ones and are religious about cleaning all surfaces and tightening patterns, torque, and thread locker. They can end really poorly otherwise. And should still be checked regularly either way.
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May 21, 2020 20:54
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Applebees Appetizer posted:[e] Just noticed that the stud size is different between JK and JL too, form 1/2" to 14mm lol I doubt they changed the inner diameter of the wheel to accommodate it, though, or if they did, by a tiny amount.
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May 21, 2020 21:22
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So I've been looking at Wranglers for probably five months now and have been disappointed for the most part. Lots of over priced crap or rusted out poo poo heaps, or some other kind of issues that I don't really feel like dealing with if I'm gonna pay over ten grand for a vehicle. Then recently I found a place based in Orlando that will build you a custom Jeep however you want for $13k (YJ). Not a perfect show quality Jeep, but something that looks and drives great built exactly the way you want it. I thought well I've always wanted a YJ Islander, so I called they guy and he said no problem. He can source the configuration I want (late model YJ with FI 6cyl, automatic) and get started as soon as he gets one. He's already invited me to come to his shop to see some current projects and drive a few finished ones. I'm seriously thinking about it, this is pretty much exactly what I want:  I've always loved these
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May 22, 2020 15:25
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So I've been looking at Wranglers for probably five months now and have been disappointed for the most part. Lots of over priced crap or rusted out poo poo heaps, or some other kind of issues that I don't really feel like dealing with if I'm gonna pay over ten grand for a vehicle. Islanders were my favorite YJ package. I'm currently finishing paint on my YJ, but it's just a 4cyl base model.  In fact, my timer just went off to go spray the next coat on my tailgate.
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May 22, 2020 18:13
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You'd be way better off with a TJ. I'd wait if I were you. $13k would buy you a fair example and there should be room for some upgrades too. $13k for a leaf sprung wrangler is expensive IMO.
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May 22, 2020 19:21
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$13k will get you a TJ rubicon. $13k for a yj is one step short of a crime.
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May 22, 2020 19:27
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I'm kind of torn on the leaf spring thing. I mean, yes, coil spring suspension is undoubtedly superior for a variety of reasons and applications, but he has been pretty consistently looking for a "drive it to the beach and cruise" kind of Jeep. If I'm right that the most offroading the thing will see is driving across the sand occasionally, I'm having trouble arguing that the technically superior TJ is a better option than the stylistically superior YJ. He's just not going to run into any of the issues that leaf springs can cause, and might actually benefit from the lower maintenance requirements. I mean, I wouldn't spend $13k on it, but he has made it pretty clear that he doesn't want any of the advantages a TJ would present over a YJ. (YJs in general are better looking in my opinion, but come on, that islander appearance package screeeeeeeams Florida.)
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May 22, 2020 19:30
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13k is highway robbery IMO. I'm in the wrong line of business I guess. At that price it better have a 44 rear and traction aids of some kind in the diffs, goddamn.
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May 22, 2020 21:09
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For 13k that includes the Jeep itself, new wheels/tires, new seats, any needed mechanical work, bodywork, Rhino liner, new paint, new top, gauges, lights, horn etc... Not bad honestly considering I'd be getting exactly what I wanted, I'd spend close to that doing it myself (having it painted/lined) after paying for a decent Jeep to start with. Here's a couple examples of what they're doing https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/d/1991-jeep-wrangler-yj-stunning/7127740955.html  https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/d/1993-jeep-wrangler-yj-retro-renegade/7127659917.html  Krakkles posted:I'm kind of torn on the leaf spring thing. I mean, yes, coil spring suspension is undoubtedly superior for a variety of reasons and applications, but he has been pretty consistently looking for a "drive it to the beach and cruise" kind of Jeep. And this, it won't be going off road so leaf springs aren't gonna matter much. The TJ rides a little better than a YJ on the road but not that big of a difference. I don't need lockers or any of that poo poo, just want a 4.0 with the 3 speed auto. Sir Not Appearing posted:Islanders were my favorite YJ package. I'm currently finishing paint on my YJ, but it's just a 4cyl base model. That's awesome man, turn it into a Islander you can get the decal package online https://www.phoenixgraphix.com/amc/8990wie.php Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 21:33 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 21:24
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And to be fair, I don't know what the Wrangler market is like everywhere else in the country, but here in Florida it's ridiculous. I'd have to spend the same amount to get a Jeep that has good mileage and is in good condition. People here are advertising worn the gently caress out Wranglers with trashed interiors and 160k miles for 10 grand and they are selling. Anything that is reasonably priced is gone in 2.2 seconds. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 21:44 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 21:41
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Applebees Appetizer posted:And to be fair, I don't know what the Wrangler market is like everywhere else in the country, but here in Florida it's ridiculous. I'd have to spend the same amount to get a Jeep that has good mileage and is in good condition. In IN they're high. I consider myself lucky paying $2500 for one with a solid frame and a the smoothest running 2.5 I've ever driven along with a inch-thick folder of every receipt of the last 12 years. I've mentioned it on a couple Facebook groups when the question of how much everyone paid for their jeeps and somebody always chimes in with "well, I only paid $900 for this beaut'" and it's always the same thing, gutted, rusty interior, it needed frame patches, 3 spoke AREs with mismatched tires, and it's sprayed in flat black rattle can or parts store bedliner that's peeling off......but they paid $900  You're lucky to find a TJ under 5k that isn't missing the entire frame between the axles around here.
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May 22, 2020 22:12
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As a move back to California looks more and more likely I'm hoping that the CJ market is doing ok in a few months. Mine has no prayer of passing California emissions (it was a 49-state car to begin with), but I got it to pass NM inspections after I bought it and it's now grandfathered by the rolling 35-year rule, so that's got to count for something.
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May 22, 2020 22:16
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Applebees Appetizer posted:And to be fair, I don't know what the Wrangler market is like everywhere else in the country, but here in Florida it's ridiculous. I'd have to spend the same amount to get a Jeep that has good mileage and is in good condition. Wow, this shop is kinda local to me, no idea it existed. I see what his game is though. Buy beat to poo poo base models from probably out of state for much cheaper than they are going for here then over charge people to do the work to get them looking "pretty". For example  That is an absolutely beat to poo poo YJ with probably 100k+ miles that he will pretty up and sell to you for "only" 13k. You could find one for 2-3k and put another 2-3k in it yourself and have it look like whatever they're going to do to it for half the price.
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May 22, 2020 22:19
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Maybe, but I don't have the time or space to take on a project like that myself, I'd rather pay someone else to do it  As far as "beat to poo poo" as long as they replace everything that's beat to poo poo who cares? I'm well aware the guy is running a business and needs to make money, as long as they do quality work that's all I care about. And l like I said, this is just something I'm thinking about. If I take the next step i will definitely be going to his shop to see what kind of work they do, I'm not an idiot and know shoddy work when i see it so we'll see.
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May 22, 2020 22:42
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My thought was, isn't that what businesses do and why DIY is a thing? Would you feel better if they picked the seat color and paint and did the work before putting it up for sale?
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May 22, 2020 22:47
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