|
A P2 v70 (2007 and earlier) will be a pre Ford design. I've been pleasantly surprised by parts costs for my 2004 xc90 and nothing about it feels Ford like.
|
#
?
May 7, 2020 15:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 09:42 |
|
|
Awesome, that is the input I needed. I'm going to aim closer to the 97-07 range, because my legs preclude me from wrenching on my own car. Any repairs past replacing a burnt out tail light bulb will require a mechanic. By the way, my Volvo 87 740 GLE spoiled me as my first car. Replacing a tail light bulb was as easy as swapping a light in my home. When I got a Ford Focus as my poverty car out of college, doing loving anything was a nightmare.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2020 22:05
|
|
|
^^ I was amazed at how the headlight modules on the XC90 come out just by pulling out two stakes and disconnecting one cable. Is there a known good place to get access to the XC90's CANbus for a permanent hookup?
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2020 22:59
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2020 18:02
|
|
|
I'd like to thank all you helpful people, because I bought a Volvo today! I found a 00' S40 with one owner, maintenance records for the life of the car on the Carfax, and 135k miles. It isn't the blocky beast I wanted, but every single one of those I drove had a host of issues. The car I bough needs one new headlight and is due for an oil change in 500 miles. I'll be taking it to a mechanic next week and getting all the maintenance up to date. He was asking $2350, I offered 2k and that was that. If it wasn't for the advice here, I would have got a much older car and likely hosed myself. This car had to lowest miles of anything I looked at, including much newer vehicles. So, I do have a question - The speakers are twenty years old and hosed. How much does it cost to get the speakers and the cassette deck knocked out for something newer? I'm trying to gauge if I'd rather buy a bluetooth speaker to shove under the seat or pay someone to put new poo poo in it. Good music piped in from my phone is a requirement for me.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2020 22:43
|
|
|
Post some pics that sounds like a sweet ride!
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2020 14:45
|
|
|
always be closing posted:Post some pics that sounds like a sweet ride! I'll grab some once I have my leg braces on.  Quick Question - It came with two keys, but one is pretty damaged. But it still looks like an original key. Today, my father went out to put my insurance paperwork in the glovebox. Well, we found out the car has a loving alarm the hard way. He went in through the passenger door when it went off. It isn't a keyless entry car. It's an '00 S40. Any idea how to deal with that alarm? I'd disable it if I could, the most valuable thing that's ever left unattended is a Garmin GPS. I've had my car broken into before and the GPS was left alone.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2020 22:34
|
|
|
If it's setup like the XC90, the alarm's horn bit is inside the front bumper on the passenger side :/
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2020 22:37
|
|
|
taqueso posted:If it's setup like the XC90, the alarm's horn bit is inside the front bumper on the passenger side :/ I just want to know what the gently caress sets it on and off if it doesn't have a key fob. Looks like it's time to read the manual. Oh boy.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2020 02:57
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:The speakers are twenty years old and hosed. How much does it cost to get the speakers and the cassette deck knocked out for something newer? I'm trying to gauge if I'd rather buy a bluetooth speaker to shove under the seat or pay someone to put new poo poo in it. Good music piped in from my phone is a requirement for me. Go to Crutchfield and put in your car info. They sell car radios and also all the random adapter pieces / brackets needed. It's like $100 for a decent head unit. They usually sell speakers in pairs for like $50~ a pair.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2020 04:21
|
|
|
I'm sorry that I only noticed cassette deck now o7
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2020 05:19
|
|
|
Has anyone here had experience with the OSD (overseas delivery) program at Volvo? It seems...almost like a great deal? A discount (albeit from MSRP) on the car, flight to Europe, and a day or two in a hotel. From what I gather, some people say it can take some time to get your car (9-10 months?), which wouldn't be a huge deal but it'd require some planning. Sounds like you may also get access to some additional options that aren't usually available on US cars? And hopefully the world isn't over by then.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2020 14:35
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:I just want to know what the gently caress sets it on and off if it doesn't have a key fob. Usually it's a little contact in the lock cyl that'll tell the module whether it's being unlocked with the key or by other means. So if it was last locked with the key or with the door open, if it doesn't see the next unlock done with a key it knows something is up. If that contact has a little shmoo on it from disuse (who uses a key on the pass door, like ever?) it would then think you're slim jimming it. Or I'm completely wrong, there may have been a fob that's now missing, or Volvo/Mitsubishi might have come up with a different way of doing that on this car, Idk much about them.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2020 20:50
|
|
|
Residency Evil posted:Has anyone here had experience with the OSD (overseas delivery) program at Volvo? I haven’t and won’t for the foreseeable future, but if you’re interested in what’s able to be ordered there’s the page on flyvolvo
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2020 03:30
|
|
|
NumbersMatching320 posted:Usually it's a little contact in the lock cyl that'll tell the module whether it's being unlocked with the key or by other means. So if it was last locked with the key or with the door open, if it doesn't see the next unlock done with a key it knows something is up. If that contact has a little shmoo on it from disuse (who uses a key on the pass door, like ever?) it would then think you're slim jimming it. It's going to the shop tomorrow for a general wellness check. I'll ask them why my Volvo likes to freak out for no reason. I'm tired of the old neighbors coming out acting like WWIII is kicking off.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2020 03:02
|
|
|
01 v70 fwd. I wanted to add a tow hitch for my small utility trailer. I'm probably going to order this kit: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volvo/V70/2001/C12318.html?VehicleID=2001301635 Etrailer has the following wire kits available, is there a better option? Or would one of these be best? https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2001_Volvo_V70.htm
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure one (or more) injectors are shot on my Dads 2014 D3 V70 (5-cyl diesel). Superclattery under load esp. at the lower RPM. Slowing down by engine breaking does not make a sound. What's the best way of DIY confirming this theory and/or work out which injector that is bad (my god they are expensive...). At least my Icarsoft code reader can recode the new one after I replace them. It's almost embarassing how loud it is at times when it's at its worst.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2020 10:01
|
|
|
The Meat Dimension posted:I haven’t and won’t for the foreseeable future, but if you’re interested in what’s able to be ordered there’s the page on flyvolvo Yeah the pricing seems pretty attractive compared to MSRP (although I'm not sure what real world pricing ends up being). I've heard you can get different colors as well...
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2020 12:55
|
|
|
Because we have been playing along at home, I thought I'd give an update - Took the car to a shop that was recommended to me by three different shops. Did my research and it has good reviews. The S40 was on sale for $2350. I got it for $2000, expecting it to need $1k or so in work because it's a twenty year old car. The shop says the engine, transmission, and computer are firing on all cylinders. Brakes are still good, tires are good, A/C and heat work, etc. It needed a lot of fluids changed, filters changed, some belts, some little things I've forgot, and a new headlight bulb. Unfortunately, it had a cracked...axel thing. It wasn't the axel itself, but something between the axel and the wheel. Repairs are going to cost me a little over 1k with almost half of that being the cracked axel thing. That's not counting the major belt job Volvos get every 105k miles, but I knew I was signed up for that when it was due. All in all, this car will cost me about $3200, which is exactly what I wanted to pay. Thanks, AI. I avoided some major money pit cars with your help and hopefully landed on a car that will serve me well. This car had the lowest miles of anything I looked at, so I'm hoping it doesn't explode into a ball of flames when I get it home next week. I promise to post pictures, but a white S40 is pretty dang boring. Question - I'm sorry to forget the exact name of it, but how much is reasonable to pay when it's time to replace the major belt system? Part of me wants to go ahead and get that over with, but I want to make sure the price I'd be charged is reasonable.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2020 22:20
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:Because we have been playing along at home, I thought I'd give an update - Scan and post the estimate. We'll evaluate the rate and charges, but it sounds reasonable for a good-quality shop. And post photos #AllVolvosAreBeautiful
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 16:05
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Scan and post the estimate. We'll evaluate the rate and charges, but it sounds reasonable for a good-quality shop. Cool, I will. I've had a lot of used cars over the years and everything they were doing sounded reasonably priced to my untrained ears. It was just the cracked axel cam thing that stung a bit. ($450ish) We are having a hard time finding when, or if, the big belt job has been done. That's the one thing I told them to hold off doing, if nothing else because I don't like telling a shop "Go Hog Wild" on my first repair visit. I'll get an estimate for it before I bring the car home.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2020 22:59
|
|
|
I think I paid around 1200 for the timing belt and water pump job on my C70, but that was at the dealer, an independent shop might come in a little cheaper.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 02:13
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:I'm pretty sure one (or more) injectors are shot on my Dads 2014 D3 V70 (5-cyl diesel). Superclattery under load esp. at the lower RPM. Slowing down by engine breaking does not make a sound. What's the best way of DIY confirming this theory and/or work out which injector that is bad (my god they are expensive...). At least my Icarsoft code reader can recode the new one after I replace them. Engine braking should shut off the injectors, so that's a good tell there too, but it could be the flywheel? I'm not sure if those later cars have the dual mass that under a low RPM can be clattery and are considered a wear item. I'd just get new injectors, they've come down on price. You'll just need to make sure they're rated the same (class 1-5) or you'll need to recode, which is going to require VIDA. E: you should be able to unplug injectors one by one and see if it affects idle. Kivi fucked around with this message at 21:47 on May 17, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2020 21:40
|
|
|
Kivi posted:Does it have difficulty starting, especially warm? That was the tell my injectors going bad. Would start, stumble, turn off. It actually runs totally fine and without any problems beside the clatter. I've considered the flywheel as well, but kinda discounted it as there are not vibrations or clonks. Thankfully my code reader can code the new injectors (as VIDA is a bit of a pain in the rear end to get to work IIRC). I did some reading on a Volvo forum and they seemed to think clatter was normal to diesels (it does sound exactly like diesel clatter, just way louder). But yeah. Could go to a Volvo dealer to get it diagnosed and then fix it myself, but then again I'm not sure I trust them to just not want to throw parts at it.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2020 06:25
|
|
|
Got my car back and I'm amazed. The shop quoted me $1250-$1500 to get everything fixed. Turned out they got it done for $1080. Steve's Automotive in downtown Portland sure appears to be quality people. In my entire life of driving used cars, I've never had a shop charge me less than the quote. For the timing belt, components, cam and crank seals, water pump, and coolant replacement/service they quoted me $1240. I'll have to get that done before too long. From what people have mentioned here, that seems reasonable. Pictures inbound when it stops loving storming. Thanks again for helping to guide me towards a good purchase. Without the advice here, I would have got an ancient Volvo and spent all my money paying people to fix it.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2020 22:31
|
|
|
I came outside and the XC90 was running the interior fan full blast while the car was off and no key in it. It doesn't have a cabin cooling while off feature as far as I know and it stopped immediately when the key got to posn 2. I imagine it has been running since I parked an hour earlier. I guess I'll look in VIDA for clues but this is a little mysterious. I imagine this car has a canbus controlled climate module so maybe it got confused or missed a message....
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2020 21:53
|
|
|
Google Volvo afterblow, I think. It's a moisture mitigation process that basically kicks in if you shut your car off while the AC was running. It waits a bit for the condenser to warm back up and then tries to dry it out so it doesn't grow mold.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2020 23:39
|
|
|
My wife's XC-90 does this too. Didn't know what the hell was going on when we first bought it but figured it was something to do with cabin cooling or what LloydDobler mentioned when it didn't immediately explode or zap the battery.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2020 23:51
|
|
|
Awesome, I was hoping that was a thing. thanks
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2020 01:29
|
|
|
always be closing posted:01 v70 fwd. I wanted to add a tow hitch for my small utility trailer. I'm probably going to order this kit: So I was looking on Facebook and some people mentioned Volvo offers a plug and play trailer harness. Is this only for the xc70's? Can't find anything about it for a v70. Also I saw it mentioned that it needs to be installed by a dealer and the ecm flashed? Any truth to that? Also our local chain Volvo dealer was very rude to me and I'd like to avoid giving them money. Where can I find and buy genuine factory parts online?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2020 21:37
|
|
|
I buy all my stuff from FCP Euro these days. They truly honor their lifetime warranty. You pay not too much more for it too. For factory stuff that they don't list, Tasca Volvo has the very best prices anywhere. Also XC70s and V70s are functionally identical except for suspension and body cladding so any wiring harness for an XC will work in a V of matching years LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:27 on May 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2020 21:56
|
|
|
What’s the general scoop on 2017-now S60s? They’re nice looking and comfortable, are they easy to service and reliable?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2020 02:35
|
|
|
My old V70 failed its annual inspection because of a bad ball joint. Luckily there's at least one really good video showing how to replace it on youtube. I love when that happens. Tripod, lighting, framing, shows all the relevant steps, tells you the torque specs even. It seems like a lovely multi-hour job but nothing unmanageable. The car was due for an alignment anyways but I'll get this sorted first obviously.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2020 07:28
|
|
|
poisonpill posted:What’s the general scoop on 2017-now S60s? They’re nice looking and comfortable, are they easy to service and reliable? Too new for me to have any advice, but the Swedespeed forums are staying up to date with all the new generations, I'd go read some of the subforums there, anyone with a problem posts up. On the other hand, people without problems seldom post so you'll get info on both weird and common problems, but a lot less general reliability. But I definitely haven't heard anything about quality being bad in the last few years.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2020 16:37
|
|
|
My Volvo has been at the dealer for a few days while they are trying to figure out the alarm gremlin. I want them to just disconnect the loving thing, but they have to figure out why it's going off. Their fear, which was the other shop's fear, is the battery is getting drained. My battery has gone from fully charged to throwing up warnings twice, apparently. I'm going to tell them to replace the battery. I've never had an old used car that didn't need a battery replacement in the first few months. This car had full maintenance records, including stamps and poo poo in the Volvo book, up to 95k. It looks like it wasn't getting much TLC from 95k to the current 137k. Based on the dealer recommendation, I'm probably going to go ahead and bite the bullet on the timing belt thing, too. After doing some reading and listening to the advice here, that sounds like a clusterfuck if it breaks. Currently at 3.2k into this car. Planning another 1.2k come timing belt time. If I've got a car under 150k miles for under 5k, I'm happy. loving alarm.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2020 02:38
|
|
|
  Still need to get the AC compressor fixed before she's 100% again
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 16:11
|
|
|
I'd say you have Stockholm syndrome, except I think your car was made in Belgium. You have Ghent Syndrome. In my world, we have achieved... WANG.  So yeah, I went ahead and got one of the $90 ebay fiberglass replicas, and it works. I think overall I would have preferred a factory one, for the quality, fit, and the brake light. I broke down and paid a body shop to paint it, and it came out 1000x better than I ever could have done. Cost me $200, but they even block sanded it down so there are zero imperfections in the top. Factory quality paint, color matched perfect, with clearcoat. The holes were each about 1/8" off the factory drill marks, so that sucked, I just ovaled everything out with my dremel. And one side has about a 1/8" twist in it so it doesn't fully seat down on the double sided tape. But it's not anything I'll ever notice, now that it's on there. If I find the tailgate filling with water or something, I might have to caulk it. That or just put drain holes in the tailgate, it is plastic after all. It also blocks about half of the third brake light. If anyone else is considering one, this is my experience. After installing that, I was still rolling with motivation so I did my traditional de-badging job. I like my cars cleeeean. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2020 03:45
|
|
|
The ball joint replacement is done. I had to take the control arm out and use a hydraulic press to get the old one out, but other than that nothing fought me more than expected. The part was in bad shape and the car rides noticeably better now, so hats off to the inspection guy who caught it I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2020 21:07
|
|
|
JFC this car now pulls like a train through the whole powerband. I'd hate to see what an intake and intercooler add. But first I need to drop in a new starter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 09:42 |
|
|
toplitzin posted:JFC this car now pulls like a train through the whole powerband. The most important part of the intake is the turbo inlet pipe. The stock filter box is fine if you don't want to do the hot air intake or spend a ton on a cold air shield system. The intercooler will make a massive difference, especially in the summer. You might even want to adjust the tune after you get it. The stock intercooler setup is terrible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2020 17:33
|
|