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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Congrats on your new rebodied Subaru Crosstrek! At least it's not a PT Cruiser.  What Chrysler did to the Neon to make that monstrosity cannot be forgiven. e: fixing a shameful snipe 
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May 8, 2020 02:49
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Oh don't think I've seen that color before
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May 8, 2020 02:58
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um excuse me posted:I wouldn't even care if someone with a 9-2X Aero posted in here, honestly. The Wicked Big Meet even allows them to race in the Subaru only autocross. Hey, it says Saab on the badge but it says Fuji Heavy Industries under the hood. It's a Subie through and through
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May 8, 2020 03:09
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Minto Took posted:At least it's not a PT Cruiser. Whoah what is that awesome colour?
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May 8, 2020 03:13
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Hakone Green I got one of these: https://www.motortrend.com/news/2020-toyota-86-hakone-edition-mean-green-touge-machine/
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May 8, 2020 03:15
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um excuse me posted:I wouldn't even care if someone with a 9-2X Aero posted in here, honestly. The Wicked Big Meet even allows them to race in the Subaru only autocross. What about a Linear?
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May 8, 2020 03:21
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Minto Took posted:Hakone Green This owns. Very nice!
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May 8, 2020 03:36
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Hakone Green is uuuuuuuuunffffffffffffffffff.
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May 8, 2020 03:40
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Minto Took posted:Hakone Green Holy balls that 86 is sickkkkkk.
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May 8, 2020 04:15
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Why did my pants suddenly get tight? 
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May 8, 2020 11:57
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Minto Took posted:At least it's not a PT Cruiser. That color looks amazing, congrats on the new car. Those are also probably the best looking stock wheels I've seen on a car. There was an 86 dedicated thread, but it went to the archives probably 2 years ago. The Philly86 club met up with the Allentown 86 club back in February, and the Allentown club was super late. The reason? Their hyper blue BRZ rear ended their Hakone 86. I know the hyper blue was totaled. The Hakone was driveable, but had some serious rear end damage. It was tragic. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 13:31 on May 8, 2020 |
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May 8, 2020 13:29
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One lateral link bolt down, one to go.
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May 9, 2020 22:30
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The outer lateral link bolts have not been my biggest problem so far. What's the deal with the plastic cap on the front-facing side of the bracket the inner front lateral link bolt goes into? It's toothed, can't tell what it's for. I managed to break a socket on that bolt, need to figure out where my impact sockets went.
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May 10, 2020 03:29
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rickiep00h posted:Because something is wrong with me, I bought a '93 Legacy 25th Anniversary off Craigslist this weekend. After I cleared the ECU, the only code that still pops up is the canister purge solenoid. (It also stumbles a bit and idles pretty high.) So I figure I actually have to replace it. Fill the purge solenoid with mineral spirits while cycling it on and off with a 9 volt, then shake vigorously and blow excess mineral spirits out
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May 10, 2020 08:16
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Well, the 10mm wrench gremlin got to me, so I put the car back together and will be heading out to Harbor Freight tomorrow to get more impact sockets and a new wrench set that will hopefully last a few more years before I lose half of them again. While I'm at it, is there a tool specifically for clamping a brake hose? Like Jamal mentioned a while back, the hose on these things goes through a bit of the strut housing in the rear, so unless I want to spend a lot of time with my not-very-strong rotary tool grinding away, I'm probably best off clamping the hoses. I had a pair of vise grips on there but I'm not sure if there's a better tool for it. Putting together a shopping list for tomorrow, I'll probably get another can of PB blaster just in case too. And some brake cleaner to clean out the inside of the bushing holes and clean the brakes while I'm in there.
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May 10, 2020 23:11
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I don't understand why they designed it that way. Later models just uses a clip like everybody else. I did switch the brake hoses when I put newer model struts on my Forester, so it's possible to convert them. That involves bleeding of course.
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May 10, 2020 23:28
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Actually, maybe I should just drain and replace the fluid while I'm at it, I don't know how old that fluid is. I think I might have a bottle of it that I bought last winter, but I can't remember if I bought DOT-3 or ATF thinking that it would work for power steering fluid. This is how cars sit for years, isn't it? "While I'm at it"x100.
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May 11, 2020 00:10
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bonelessdongs posted:Fill the purge solenoid with mineral spirits while cycling it on and off with a 9 volt, then shake vigorously and blow excess mineral spirits out Went ahead and got a replacement anyway. Once that gets here, we'll be seeing how much my $750 got me.
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May 11, 2020 04:12
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apropos of nothing: If you're trying to track down a front-end clunk, go out to your garage/driveway/yard right now and tighten your swaybar endlinks. Just do it. I don't care if you're super sure they're already tight. Otherwise, you'll deal with it for far, faaaar too long and convince yourself it's some other component you haven't yet identified.
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May 11, 2020 20:43
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I think I need a new radiator https://streamable.com/wn1mss Although last time I had an engine drink coolant it was a head gasket, and this *is* an EZ30, and there was white smoke at the back of the car when I pulled over to top the coolant up...
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May 16, 2020 06:39
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Costco has these lift/stands for under a grand. https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5%2c000-lb-capacity-portable-car-lift.product.100460313.html Anyone have any opinions?
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May 16, 2020 07:04
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simplefish posted:I think I need a new radiator Do you want the good news or bad news? Bad news is you have a EZ30 Good news is the head gaskets are gone and you have an excuse to swap it out for a motor that isn't such a huge ball of crap. Like a EJ25
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May 16, 2020 07:16
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Do you want the good news or bad news? Really, that's not the radiator? poo poo.
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May 16, 2020 07:20
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So during the quarantine down time, I decided to pull my rallycross car out for a thorough cleaning, and when I pulled it out lo and behold, an oil leak. Pulled the skid plate off, breaking off 2 bolts in the subframe, and I found a pinhole leak in my oil pan. The thing is rusty as hell, as is the subframe (the subframe is actually rotting to pieces at this point), and I figure eh I'll replace them since I have the time... broke 4/12 bolts holding the subframe on lol. I got a newish rust free subframe, as well as a new OEM oil pan which will have to go on soon since I hear they're opening racetracks soon. I'm kinda dreading attempting to remove the oil pan with the engine inside the car still, since I'm breaking so many bolts as it is. I'm attacking them with liberal rust penetrant, and I know the oil pan bolts are barely torqued, but still, I don't need to make a slight leak worse. Well anyway at least I got all the old owners decals and poo poo off and my new dress up on, I never did do a full rinse/wash of the exterior yet tho 
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May 16, 2020 08:02
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simplefish posted:Really, that's not the radiator? poo poo. See how full your overflow is? That says the engine's been pressurizing the cooling system. Classic EZ30 symptom and yes it can build enough pressure to blow radiator hoses clean off or just plain fracture the radiator. I know the jokes about EJ25's and head gaskets but the reality is that the majority will run for eons with metal head gaskets. An EZ30 on the other hand really is a ticking bomb - they simply have an under designed cooling system and most in the know will say they almost certainly need headgaskets if they haven't done them already.
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May 16, 2020 12:50
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Oh no that was just because I noticed the steam, looked in the engine bay, and found an empty coolant overflow bottle with spray marks evenly across both sides of the engine bay. I was only a few minutes away from home when it happened, so I thought I'd give it loads of coolant to drink and chance it. The clip is from when I pulled over to refill the coolant and it's just 2 seconds long because I was understandably in a hurry. I've put almost 10% of the car's total mileage on it in the last 7 or so months, corona months included, which considering the car's 16 years old is quite a lot. That's a good point about the engine pressurizing the coolant system and fracturing the radiator though, it does seem like the radiator let go suddenly. How would you check for coolant in the oil? Oil's a pretty good medium brown on the dipstick, no milkshake on the filler cap. That's all I know to check.
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May 16, 2020 13:20
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Costco has these lift/stands for under a grand. $1,199.99 Is there any particular reason you need something like this as opposed to a floor jack and 4 jack stands? I recently bought a full set which is a lot cheaper at $170 and has a higher lifting capacity at 3 tons as opposed to 5000 lbs [2.5 tons]. Yes, the capacity is overkill for most Subarus but at least you have the option of lifting something heavier. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Torin-Black-Steel-Hydraulic-Jack-Stand/50281825 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Torin-Black-Steel-Manual-Jack-Stand/50273053 One reason I could see needing that portable car lift is if you don't have space to operate and wheel the floor jack between each end of the car. Something that caught me off guard, but shouldn't have been surprised at, when using the jack set while replacing a driveshaft is that the floor jack is a heavy mofo and there is no good place to grab and lift it to quickly move it about if you're in tight quarters. Still, even under a grand is still a quite a bit to ask for and the only other justification I can see to get it is if you need to get a car in the air and back on the ground very quickly. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 16:29 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 13:42
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simplefish posted:How would you check for coolant in the oil? You wont get either. Yes I know this doesn't make sense and drove me crazy trying to prove it but the head gasket will usually fail at the water galleries so all you get it is engine gasses being forced between the gasket and mating surfaces - That's how the cooling system over pressurizes. A testing kit that checks for excess carbons in the coolant will show it, or keep the cap off and look for air bubbles coming out at regular intervals. quote:Is there any particular reason you need something like this as opposed to a floor jack and 4 jack stands? I recently bought a full set which is a lot cheaper at $170 and has a higher lifting capacity at 3 tons as opposed to 5000 lbs [2.5 tons]. Yes, the capacity is overkill for most Subarus but at least you have the option of lifting something heavier. It gets the car up higher and safer than a normal jack / stands. Really drat good for doing stuff like gearboxes CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 13:58 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 13:44
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Costco has these lift/stands for under a grand. I see people at the track with these and they do seem real nice for switching wheels/tires quickly. For regular use I’d rather just have a jack and stands though.
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May 16, 2020 13:47
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Costco has these lift/stands for under a grand. Be sure to check the measurements as they have a few different sizes. I think they're well liked
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May 16, 2020 14:22
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Costco has these lift/stands for under a grand. Super late to this. Buy those aren't pin stands at all.
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May 16, 2020 18:45
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Has anyone ever done the oil pan/oil pan gasket job on the EJ253 with it inside the engine bay? I've read it can be done without removing the exhaust components by just loosening the motor mounts and lifting the engine like an inch and snaking in with a u joint ratchet, but it looks insanely tight from my look just now. I'd prefer to not buy more gaskets and leave the exhaust intact if I can.
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May 16, 2020 19:25
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:Has anyone ever done the oil pan/oil pan gasket job on the EJ253 with it inside the engine bay? I've read it can be done without removing the exhaust components by just loosening the motor mounts and lifting the engine like an inch and snaking in with a u joint ratchet, but it looks insanely tight from my look just now. I'd prefer to not buy more gaskets and leave the exhaust intact if I can. Yep I just did it a few weeks ago. All I had to do was undo the two engine mount nuts and Jack it up a little and use a 1/4" ratchet, extension and ujoint with a short 10mm socket.
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May 16, 2020 19:35
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:You wont get either. Yes I know this doesn't make sense and drove me crazy trying to prove it but the head gasket will usually fail at the water galleries so all you get it is engine gasses being forced between the gasket and mating surfaces - That's how the cooling system over pressurizes. A testing kit that checks for excess carbons in the coolant will show it, or keep the cap off and look for air bubbles coming out at regular intervals. drat it. Thanks for the explanation.
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May 16, 2020 23:38
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Edward IV posted:$1,199.99 I swear to god, those were on sale discounted to $999 last night! Guess I caught them on the last few minutes of the discount. Was thinking about getting them for my dad as a birthday present, but that'll have to wait, it seems.
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May 17, 2020 03:13
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yep I just did it a few weeks ago. All I had to do was undo the two engine mount nuts and Jack it up a little and use a 1/4" ratchet, extension and ujoint with a short 10mm socket. Nice, thanks. I need to do my oil pan eventually, too. I was living at an apartment at one point, snow was on the ground, I made the mistake of going to Jiffy Lube. Bent my oil pan so much it needs to be on stands to get leverage to tighten it down. I've been having to pay shop prices for it ever since.
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May 17, 2020 03:49
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Quickjacks are great for when you don't have the space/even floor/thick enough floor for a conventional lift. You can lift on pretty much every sort of surface as long as it's not on a slope and you put something under the jacks (I have thick plywood that I use when lifting the car on gravel.). They lift higher than the conventional jack/jackstand combo, but the biggest advantage is (especially in modern cars) that you are lifting in one spot per corner. Many new cars only have one factory approved jacking point per corner, and they are often not wide enough for both the jack and jackstand to fit. Also, lifting the whole car and having it level is much nicer, especially when changing fluids. Tire rotations/swaps is also a breeze. It's an expensive bit of kit, but with the discounts that seem regular in the US, it's easily worth it. In Europe though, getting accessories is a bit of a pig with insane shipping costs even for small stuff.
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May 17, 2020 08:25
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03 Outback, automatic E4AT. It started pissing ATF really bad recently. Saw a superfund-worthy size puddle under it (running a bit out from under the car) when I left work this morning. Usually it leaves a decent puddle, but nothing like that. Realized I sat in the car with it idling (super humid outside, and no AC at work at night) for my lunch, so... ~30 minutes of idling. Looked under it. No dripping. Started the car. Immediate dripping around the transmission filter. I changed the filter 6 months ago. It started puking fluid about 2 months ago. The filter is tight enough that I can't move it by hand, and it's the exact same part number Carquest filter that came off of it. I just checked the old filter, and it still has its gasket. Ideas? Do I just need to hulk on it? Do I need to yank it and wire-brush the mating surface? Or did I just get a poo poo filter that wound up leaking? I wiped ATF on the gasket before installation.  I'm gonna guess the answer is "get an OEM filter".... that's not an option at the moment since I've just emptied my savings account to move on top of taking a week off of work tho, I just need to slow the draining of the randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:43 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 17, 2020 18:39
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Take the filter off and make sure there's no gunk on the mating surface, if the gaskets are the same diameter maybe try the old one in case the new one has some flaw in it? Also, from memory the ATF should be a cherry red, that looks way too dark to be only 6mo fluid.
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May 17, 2020 18:47
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Yea are you sure that's not oil leaking above the filter somewhere? The only thing I can think of that's up that high is the back of the head gasket though or maybe an oil galley welsh plug. I'll have to look at one of the heads I have to see what's around there. E: looks like the only thing in the back is the cam cover  Oil pressure comes in top right above the pulley and drains are at the bottom so probably not the gasket 
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May 17, 2020 21:32
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