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Prefect Six posted:if I want to use the drone for hobby and possibly some commercial stuff down the line, should I just register it under 107? The recreational registration is actually one time and one number for all of your aircraft until it expires, only stuff you want to fly under part 107 needs to be registered uniquely. So you can just start with a recreational reg.
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May 4, 2020 08:03
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BUT, you can still fly under recreational rules even if the drone is registered and you have a 107. I had a similar problem at my parent's house. We were thinking to get a group picture but didn't have a nice camera, but wait I have my mavic! I was in class D to the ground, but took off before GPS lock. Hovering about 10ft high, after 1 picture the drone realizes where it is and starts auto landing. I could hold throttle up and it would stay in place, but if I let off it would continue to descend. I finally just set it on top of a car to use the camera lol. That airport didn't support LAANC at the time 
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May 4, 2020 14:38
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I went flying (mostly fixed wing 3D) this weekend and a friend showed up with a Mavic and some Autel thing that looks similar to a Mavic but with a slick orange paint job (I would imagine this makes it easier to find when it fucks off into a tree). Performance is similar but it gives zero fucks about where you are and pretty much just flies anywhere, >5 miles from a airport or no.
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May 4, 2020 14:56
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i own every Bionicle posted:some Autel thing that looks similar to a Mavic but with a slick orange paint job autel evo 2
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May 4, 2020 15:52
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Yeah, the autels tell you if you are doing some crimes but they won't stop you. I just realized that my mavic mini has a different app than the bigger models so what I said about mine does not necessarily applies to others.
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May 4, 2020 16:01
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Ok, so using Kittyhawk's website it says my pre-check results are eligible for further coordiation, which requires an enterprise account and up to around 30 days for the FAA to approve. The Kittyhawk mobile app wouldn't even let me do a LAANC request, it says "not eligible for authorization over 0ft" in the grid I'm in (using the hobby exception). I'm in contact with the airport Air Traffic Manager and he told me to just use LAANC. Maybe I need to go see that DPE to get my 107 and do a request that way?
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May 4, 2020 18:07
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In Kittyhawk, after tapping "Get Authorization", tap Part 107 - it won't let you do it for real without an ID# but you can see how far the green bar goes. For example, a park that I wanted to fly at, but under UAO, is 0 feet for recreational and 200 feet for 107. e: You can also try using another LAANC app - there's a few out there.
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May 4, 2020 18:37
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Rincey posted:In Kittyhawk, after tapping "Get Authorization", tap Part 107 - it won't let you do it for real without an ID# but you can see how far the green bar goes. For example, a park that I wanted to fly at, but under UAO, is 0 feet for recreational and 200 feet for 107. Looks like the Part 107 was how I got to the “eligible for further coordination” result. THe DJI app appears to just say I need to have my real name verified. I’ll check out a couple other apps.
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May 4, 2020 18:51
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i'm gonna post again my favorite bit of malicious compliance NOTAM: UAS OPERATIONS IN MY BACK YARD UP TO AND INCLUDING MY DECK
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May 4, 2020 19:04
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Some fun over the weekend with the Gecko. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O815sFBIIQ0
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May 5, 2020 18:02
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Hahahaha, that little thing just doesn't give a poo poo, that's great.
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May 5, 2020 20:57
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It's pretty great for bashing around. I've treed it a bunch and usually just had to turtle it out. The few times that hasn't worked, I've got a converted pool net that extends out to 25 feet. It's a good thing Oklahoma doesn't have actual trees that get much taller than that. The lifetime replacement for the carbon fiber and titanium parts is pretty nice too. Alternative pants fucked around with this message at 21:25 on May 5, 2020 |
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May 5, 2020 21:21
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I did a stupid  My trashcan stopped responding to my controller after dropping it too often while video came in fine, so I went to work disassembling it to see if the antenna solder broke. Resoldered the power in reverse polarity...it doesn't do anything anymore. Now what are the odds that the vtx and camera board are also shot? Just want to reorder the parts but the FC is 40 bucks on its own so I hope that's all it takes 
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May 10, 2020 22:11
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Any way to power on the vtx or camera separate? Often they are just 5v pins
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May 10, 2020 22:54
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Received my Mavic Air 2, did the self-authorization in a "blue" zone and can fly around they yard in the delta surface area.  Now to decide if I should get DJI refresh or a policy with my local insurance. Need to figure out if DJI refresh will cover commercial activities or not as State Farm will only cover the drone if it's used solely for hobby purposes. Not out to make a living on 107, but maybe as a side deal once in awhile. I know I'll need separate liability insurance and I'm working on that. Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 11, 2020 |
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May 11, 2020 16:44
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Any way to power on the vtx or camera separate? Often they are just 5v pins Dug up an old 5V adapter. VTX works...and the FC LEDs also lit up! I also get the Betaflight logo on the video feed. Yet still it doesn't seem interested in any of my 2S juice. I must've blown some diode or fuse or voltage reg somewhere at the power input, but I am in no way capable of fixing such a fault. How agonizing e: just realised I never bothered to plug it into USB. That also works. How is the battery input the only thing not working? e2: seems it's a known problem with this board that the voltage regulator stops working. I think I'll just buy a new one anyway, considering the FC was unable to talk to my RX before all this happened. Leandros fucked around with this message at 16:59 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 16:27
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Hi, help me not set my house on fire during the pandemic. I just took for granted my B6AC charger is doing everything correctly, but then today I actually paid attention to the LCD and I’m a little worried. I’m charging 4S 1300mAh 45C batteries. The battery itself has a marking of “14.8V” but when I’m charging the battery, the charger is showing as pumping it up to 16.8 volts. I have it balance charging right now and each cell looks to be about 4.2v currently. It’s been an age since I actually read about and understood LiPo charging and realized I’ve been doing it virtually unqualified all this time. I can’t seem to adjust the balance-to voltage on this charger, so is this overshooting normal? Or is the battery packaging marking 14.8v intended to denote something else? I haven’t burned down anything yet but I’m concerned I don’t know what I’m doing. E: I’m balance charging my batteries at 1.3a or lower which I gather is 1C for a 1300mAh 4S. E2: And followup question. I found an old battery from 2017 that has been sitting untended. Is there a way to determine its health? If I try to charge it should I run through the drain function first? Or is being 3 years old and unused (presumably charged when last used) just too much of a question mark to bother? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 18:26 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 18:23
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Martytoof posted:The battery itself has a marking of “14.8V” but when I’m charging the battery, the charger is showing as pumping it up to 16.8 volts. I have it balance charging right now and each cell looks to be about 4.2v currently. You have to raise the voltage across the battery terminals over the rated voltage in order to make the chemical process go backwards. e: I don't have any experience with LiPo batteries, fwiw. Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 18:52 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 18:48
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So what I’m hearing is “that’s normal”, right?
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May 13, 2020 18:50
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Martytoof posted:So what I’m hearing is “that’s normal”, right? It's normal for all the station battery installations I've dealt with, but they are mostly lead acid batteries. I would be more concerned about keeping your amps within the 1C rating from my brief googling of LiPo maintenance. Also based on the brief look, if you didn't discharge the old battery it might not have a lot of capacity. I'd have to read more weather it's safe to do discharge/charge cycles to try to get the memory back. Hopefully someone with more LiPo experience can chime in. Again, ymmv on advice from an electrical engineer over the internet.
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May 13, 2020 18:56
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OK so I’m satisfied that I probably won’t burn down my house. As far as the old battery goes, I’ll run it through a balance charge cycle and worst case is that it’s severely diminished to the point where I end up replacing it anyway. Thanks  E: And while it’s balancing I think it may be time for me to fall down a LiPo youtube hole.
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May 13, 2020 19:11
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4.2 * 4 = 16.8 = full battery. It's the way it's supposed to work.
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May 13, 2020 19:22
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From someone with more Lipo experience: Ignore what you know about the care of lead acid, most of it doesn’t apply. Yes, 16.8V is the expected and correct voltage fully charged. 3.7 volts per cell (14.8 volts for a 4 cell battery) is the “nominal” or average voltage. If the battery reads 14.8 volts it’s about 30% charged. If it reads 16.8 volts it’s fully charged. If it reads 3.5 volts per cell it’s mostly fully discharged, for battery health and lifetime try not to go below this value, and after landing the battery should be about 14.8 volts with no load on it. LiIon cylindrical cells can be discharged a lot lower and LiHV can be charged a little higher but you probably don’t have either of those. Generally charging at 1C is good and safe. You can charge faster if you are in a rush and have high quality batteries but it will shorten their life (to what extent depends on a lot of other factors). For your old battery that you found laying around, plug it into your charger (or a cell checker if you have one) and see what the voltage of all the cells are. If they are all the same (within .02 volts or so), that is good. If they are all at around 3.7 volts, that is good. If they are all near 4.2 volts, then you left it fully charged, that is bad, and the battery will work but likely has reduced capacity and the voltage will sag when you put a load on it. If one or more cells read zero, the battery is hosed, take it to Lowe’s or Batteries Plus and recycle it (or blow it up in your backyard if you are a pyro). If the values are all over the place but none are zero, you can let the charger balance it, and it may be OK. You can charge it and then use the drain function to see how much capacity it has, or if your charger can do it you can look for cell internal resistance, but IMO just checking cell voltage will tell you what you need to know for now. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 19:36 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 19:29
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i own every Bionicle posted:LiIon cylindrical cells can’t be discharged a lot lower "can be", right?. Li-ions in theory wont die until 2.5v. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 19:56 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 19:34
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ImplicitAssembler posted:"can be", right?. Li-ions can in theory wont die until 2.5v. Yeah that is correct, my mistake. They are done at 2.5 V/cell
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May 13, 2020 19:35
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ImplicitAssembler posted:4.2 * 4 = 16.8 = full battery. It's the way it's supposed to work. Yeah this is the important info. Batteries don't have a constant voltage over their discharge. Their specified voltage is a nominal voltage, usually what you might expect to see if you measured the battery under a small load when it's at about 50% charge. When the battery is fully charged, it will be higher than the nominal voltage, and when it's empty it will be lower. The exact shape of this curve depends on the battery chemistry but for a lithium cell it looks something like this:  Follow the black line initially. At 0% discharge (full charge) the voltage is around 4.2v. As you discharge the battery, the voltage drops gradually, hitting its nominal 3.7v at around 50% discharge. When it reaches 90-95% discharge the voltage rapidly falls off, and the protection circuit kicks in at 3v to prevent over-discharge, which will damage the cell. So if you have a device that runs on this type of battery, you need to plan for it to run on anything from 3 to 4.2v (and there are simple boost circuits which will do that for you). If you have multiple cells in series, you can multiply those figures appropriately. A 3-cell battery will be nominally specified as 3.7*3 = 11.1v, but its voltage range from full charge to full discharge will be 12.6v-9.0v. The other lines on that graph represent different discharge rates. When you pull more current from the battery, the voltage drops more -- so you can't just infer charge state from battery voltage directly. Modern battery management systems instead record the current flow over time and subtract the energy drawn from the known capacity to get a charge state, but that's significantly more complicated to build.
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May 13, 2020 20:12
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Checked the old battery and all four are around 3.7 and 3.8. It's *possible* that I ran a storage routine on it before I put it away but I honestly don't recall. Guess I'll hope for the best on this bad boy. Balancing it now. Thanks for all the awesome insight.
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May 13, 2020 20:55
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Random related factoid: power tool manufacturers take advantage of this distinction between nominal voltage and peak voltage aaalll the time. You go to a Home Depot and see the Makita 18v tools and the DeWalt 20v tools, well duh you wanna get the 20v tools, is two better. Except that they're both the exact same 5-in-series 3.6v lithium-ion cells, but Makita bases the number on the nominal voltage (5*3.6v) while DeWalt uses the peak voltage (5*4.1v). Makita's marketing is more honest but DeWalt's is more American. whatcha gonna do.
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:14 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 23:09
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Ordered my Mavic Air 2 yesterday, it’ll show up Tuesday. Can’t wait to fly it!
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May 16, 2020 17:54
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Did some surgery on my Tinyhawk Freestyle. Changed out the stock vtx, camera, and dipole. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqI4G642bF4
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May 17, 2020 03:41
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https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2020/05/minnesota-man-faces-felony-charges-for-shooting-down-drone/ "The incident began when an unnamed man flew a drone over Butterfield Foods, a producer of meat products—including chicken—in the Southern Minnesota town of Butterfield. The man later told a sheriff's deputy he was trying to prove that chickens were being slaughtered because of the pandemic. Two employees approached the man and asked him what he was doing. Soon afterwards, someone else shot the drone out of the sky. The man says his drone cost $1,900. The authorities arrested 34-year-old Travis Duane Winters and charged him in Watonwan County District Court, The Free Press says. Officials say Winters admitted to shooting the drone. He faces charges of criminal damage to property and reckless discharge of a weapon within city limits." Shooting down drones is bad for the drone and for you.
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May 17, 2020 21:03
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So the guy who took this is gonna get so hosed by the FAA, the Navy, and anyone else who wants to pile on.
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May 17, 2020 22:33
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lmao fuckin christ thats bad great framing tho
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May 17, 2020 22:35
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When you’ll do anything for the shot, up to and including a felony
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May 17, 2020 22:39
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bring back old gbs posted:lmao fuckin christ thats bad https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh3TIy2gtPs If the FAA and the Navy can't get him, whoever owns the rights to Danger Zone will.
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May 17, 2020 22:40
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That guy is going to get a fine so big it’ll make your head spin
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May 17, 2020 22:49
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The original was on instagram and under the guy's actual name. It got deleted not before everyone pounced on him. The original uploader to youtube had to take it down because people assumed it was him, and Kenny Loggins' people even DMCA'd him. I think it was on suas news that a reporter was looking for him, and the neighbors told him that just about every government agency had been knocking on the guys door looking for him, including the FAA and the navy. He's, errr, gonna have some troubles.
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May 17, 2020 22:51
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not caring here posted:The original was on instagram and under the guy's actual name. It got deleted not before everyone pounced on him. The original uploader to youtube had to take it down because people assumed it was him, and Kenny Loggins' people even DMCA'd him. Vic Moss, a pretty solid name in the drone game posted this. He's being cagey but with good reason. quote:Another chapter in the saga of Mr. "X" (I'm not going to use his name anymore) and his Detroit drone fight.
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May 17, 2020 23:24
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Elendil004 posted:So the guy who took this is gonna get so hosed by the FAA, the Navy, and anyone else who wants to pile on. Bruce Simpson did some review of that video and the spotter plane seemed to be behaving funny, like it was ahead the formation and then suddenly lagged behind it, also the drone didn't seem disturbed by the air of the planes passing so close. Just quick armchair analysis. Could be faked or real, even if faked it is bad PR for the RC community.
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May 18, 2020 00:20
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It's clearly drone footage of the Blue Angels (or an incredible 3D rendering), so someone somehow got a drone up there, and if it was approved the Navy and FAA wouldn't be knocking on any doors.
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May 18, 2020 00:32
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