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um excuse me posted:Torque applied to an object is measured a s Torque=Force*Distance. Distance is defined as the location the force is applied from the acid of rotation. For screwdrivers, this would be defined by the grip diameter, not driver length. Though, the more fingers you can leverage for turning, the more torque you can apply. So it's not entirely true. This is an excellent username/post combo. There's a pervasive feeling among screwdriver-users that longer is stronger. It doesn't make sense when you draw a naïve free body diagram.
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May 17, 2020 18:29
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Would longer shanks (same diameter) twist more, thus theoretically impart less torque than a shorter shank? Sort of like how torque steer occurs in a FWD car?
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May 17, 2020 19:22
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It's probably very negligible, if so. There are a lot of factors that I would think would nullify almost any ability to twist even the most weak screwdriver - amount of power applied, movement of the screw, tendency to cam out, etc.
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May 17, 2020 19:32
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Once the system is static, the torque applied at the grip of the tool is the same as the torque applied by the tool to the fastener. There's plenty of videos on YouTube showing torque wrench testing with ridiculous combinations of extensions. The grip will rotate slightly further to account for whatever increased twist there is in the shaft, which would still be minimal on any screwdriver length.
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May 17, 2020 20:03
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torque limiting on shafts is only a problem for impact drivers. they sell "torque limiting sticks" so you can brapbrapbrap on car lug nuts to approximately the right torque. Not really the use case for precision screwdrivers.
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May 17, 2020 20:08
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Understood.. About twisting a short screwdriver shaft vs long one. Speaking of the torque sticks, how do those things work? Are they some kind of spring steel?
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May 17, 2020 20:16
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um excuse me posted:Torque applied to an object is measured a s Torque=Force*Distance. Distance is defined as the location the force is applied from the acid of rotation. For screwdrivers, this would be defined by the grip diameter, not driver length. Though, the more fingers you can leverage for turning, the more torque you can apply. So it's not entirely true. I wish I could rotate on more acid.
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May 17, 2020 21:25
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C-Bangin' it 
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Whoops, fixed it. Not that it matters at this point
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May 17, 2020 22:19
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wesleywillis posted:Understood.. About twisting a short screwdriver shaft vs long one. Each time the hammer in the driver "thwaps" the anvil it twists the torque stick (which, yes, is a quite elastic steel) a certain number of degrees, at which point it acts like a spring exerting (very) approximately 'x' ft-lbs of torque, once the hammer passes up and over the anvil the stick springs back and the process repeats on the next thwap.
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May 17, 2020 23:31
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Elviscat posted:Each time the hammer in the driver "thwaps" the anvil it twists the torque stick (which, yes, is a quite elastic steel) a certain number of degrees, at which point it acts like a spring exerting (very) approximately 'x' ft-lbs of torque, once the hammer passes up and over the anvil the stick springs back and the process repeats on the next thwap. Yeah think of it as trying to hammer in a nail with rubber mallets of different hardnesses. At a certain point all the energy goes to making bouncy things go boing and none into the fastener. We have a crew putting up a fence today, and the head guy has a Paslode pneumatic nail gun the size of a two liter coke bottle. I have zero use case for it, yet I have massive tool envy.
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May 18, 2020 08:33
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bolind posted:Yeah think of it as trying to hammer in a nail with rubber mallets of different hardnesses. At a certain point all the energy goes to making bouncy things go boing and none into the fastener. Pneumatic or gas? I've got a Paslode framing nailer that uses a gas cartridge to drive the nails. It is the most fun tool I have. It is absolutely massively powerful and honestly a little intimidating. It'll drive framing nails as deep as you want them into whatever. It's a super simple machine, too. Big piston in a cylinder, push on the nose and it squirts a bit of gas into the cylinder, squeeze the trigger and the rechargable battery sends the igniter some juice and... BAM. I've used it for a number of framing jobs in the house over the past couple years and love using it every time.
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May 18, 2020 14:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Pneumatic or gas? I've got a Paslode framing nailer that uses a gas cartridge to drive the nails. It is the most fun tool I have. It is absolutely massively powerful and honestly a little intimidating. It'll drive framing nails as deep as you want them into whatever. Pneumatic. He has a compressor and a hose. Didn’t realize that’s how the gas powered ones work. So it’s basically a potato canon/internal combustion engine in your hand. Metal. Rough napkin math says he had to put in a thousand nails for this rather small job, so it’s definitely warranted.
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May 18, 2020 16:02
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bolind posted:Didn’t realize that’s how the gas powered ones work. So it’s basically a potato canon/internal combustion engine in your hand. Metal. That's exactly what it is. And it's amazing. 
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May 18, 2020 16:39
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You all have any go to work gloves? Getting kinda sick and tired of mechanix gloves always falling apart.
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May 18, 2020 17:58
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I have had cheap ones, expensive ones, they all fall apart in the end so apart from anything really heavy I just use the cheap elastic with latex coated ones now. Can use a pair for a couple of weekends then just throw them away.
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May 18, 2020 18:05
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I just buy the HDX branded ones that are some sort of non-cotton breathable backs with leather for the palm and fingers. Then when they wear out after 6 months of weekend warrioring I buy a new pair. Generally I end up with 2-3 pair around in various stages of worn out/covered with dirt/mud/oils. I also, at least pre-pandemic, would keep a box of nitrile gloves for car or stain or paint type work.
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May 18, 2020 18:13
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BigPaddy posted:I have had cheap ones, expensive ones, they all fall apart in the end so apart from anything really heavy I just use the cheap elastic with latex coated ones now. Can use a pair for a couple of weekends then just throw them away. Yeah, those are my go to as well. I got a pack of them from Costco a while back. Only downside was when I first opened the bag they had some major rubber stank to them, but that's long gone. I go for nitrile gloves for fluid changes or anything similar where I'm at risk of just full on soaking a hand. I buy "nicer" gloves for yardwork for vibration insulation and abrasion resistance, but every brand of those wears out pretty quickly as well.
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May 18, 2020 18:29
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Gotcha, so they all suck and don't pay extra.
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May 18, 2020 18:34
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These deerskin gloves are my favorite work gloves https://www.homedepot.com/p/Firm-Grip-Pro-Full-Grain-Deerskin-Gloves-in-Large-5137-06/203465922
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May 18, 2020 18:40
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I also like the disposable rubber coated cloth maxicut and maxiflex ones. They have really good dexterity and still breath decently. For me they're more functional than the more expensive work gloves.
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May 18, 2020 18:42
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I've posted about these before, they are my go to gloves when I'm working. They fit extremely well and, and I can work 12 hours shifts for days before they wear out/start to lose their form from oil saturation. I actually have hands that aren't covered in cuts and scrapes since I started wearing them, and they're still dextrous enough that I can put together 20ga wiring without taking them off. I think they're about $5 a pair. For doing heavier stuff I go with these babies. Makes my hands feel invincible. They're like $50 a pair, though.
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May 18, 2020 20:21
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Crosspost from the other tools threadtaqueso posted:So about the compressor I bought: https://www.harborfreight.com/20-gallon-16-hp-135-psi-oil-lube-vertical-air-compressor-64857.html
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May 18, 2020 21:35
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Re. screwdriver chat: All other things being equal, the limiting factor for applied torque to the fastener with a screwdriver is the tool-fastener interface. Assuming both the tool and fastener are of average-to-excellent quality and condition, the maximum applicable torque occurs when the driver is precisely on-axis with the fastener; this is especially true for philips (or any other tapered receiver) and slot fasteners. In this respect, it is obvious that the longer shaft driver will be easier to keep on-axis while applying twisting force.
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May 18, 2020 23:25
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c355n4 posted:You all have any go to work gloves? Getting kinda sick and tired of mechanix gloves always falling apart. I've been using the Hardy ultra durable mechanics gloves from HF, both at work and at home. I bought two pairs about 3 months ago, and I've popped about a quarter inch of the seam on one finger on my work pair. Other than the Velcro wrist closure getting weak, I've got zero complaints about them. For comparison, work provides the nitrile dipped cotton/nylon gloves, and I usually wear holes in the fingers after about two weeks. https://www.harborfreight.com/ultra-durable-mechanics-gloves-large-64175.html
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May 19, 2020 00:53
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taqueso posted:Crosspost from the other tools thread I'm guessing the tank will outlive the compressor even if it is only drained occasionally. Put an automatic drain valve on it if you really want to do something about it.
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May 19, 2020 01:11
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I’ve had an 18gal HF compressor for almost a decade and decided it’s not worth the noise and electricity to fill it from empty every time. I purge out a little rusty water whenever I remember, but it’s been fine.
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May 19, 2020 01:14
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taqueso posted:Crosspost from the other tools thread Dump the oil it came with, and put in some ND30 motor oil (check to be sure, but that's what most piston compressors take). Change it every year or two if you use the compressor a lot or live in a high-humidity environment. Change it once every 5 if you don't. Check the oil level before you run it for extended periods. Drain the tank whenever you remember. I've got an IR 80G that has a "Massachusetts State Department of Public Safety Inspection" tag on it with a 1974 date, the tank's still fine. Rusty inside, but fine.
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May 19, 2020 02:01
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c355n4 posted:You all have any go to work gloves? Getting kinda sick and tired of mechanix gloves always falling apart.
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May 19, 2020 02:53
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EKDS5k posted:I've posted about these before, they are my go to gloves when I'm working. They fit extremely well and, and I can work 12 hours shifts for days before they wear out/start to lose their form from oil saturation. I actually have hands that aren't covered in cuts and scrapes since I started wearing them, and they're still dextrous enough that I can put together 20ga wiring without taking them off. I think they're about $5 a pair. drat, those Ansell ones aren't even that badly priced on Amazon, and from the sound of it I ruin mechanix gloves (at 15 to 20 a pair) faster than you ruin them working on heavy equipment. I might have to give those a shot.
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May 19, 2020 05:25
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meatpimp posted:That's exactly what it is. And it's amazing.  I was mistaken. It’s a Tjep, and the contractor was careless enough to leave it in my yard overnight. I wear a size 11 glove. On the topic of gloves, those thin mesh ones (MaxiFlex is a brand) are a godsend for keyboard warriors such as myself. I put them on all the time, saves my poor hands from nicks and splinters. bolind fucked around with this message at 08:29 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 08:25
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So what did you nail to what?
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May 19, 2020 11:54
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cakesmith handyman posted:So what did you nail to what? Only posed for the pic, didn't exactly have his permission and I'd like a minimum of training before going to town with this. He's using it for nailing rafters to fenceposts though.
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May 19, 2020 12:03
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Ehhh, you just press the business end to the workpiece and pull the trigger. If you're feeling like a pro, then you pull the trigger and press the business end to the workpiece. Make sure your other hand isn't in the way. Now you're qualified to operate a nail gun.
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May 19, 2020 15:31
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c355n4 posted:Gotcha, so they all suck and don't pay extra. There are several brand names of good quality gloves, like Bob Dale, Ansell, Superior, Watson, and tons more I'm missing. The catch is not buying your gloves at a Walmart or Home Depot and buying them from a store that sells legit industrial safety supplies. Ironically, they might even be cheaper than the big box store poo poo gloves because stores make crazy margin on their gloves. Here is a company whose gloves I use: https://www.watsongloves.com/product_categories/applications/automotive/ If I am changing the oil, I use a disposable nitrile or latex. Not fussy on that, although I am giving a preference to their green monkey because they actually decompose in landfill. I find under hood work I like a dip like this type (thin so it doesn't get in the way, gives very good dexterity, grip and strong and some basic cut resistance). https://www.watsongloves.com/products/359-stealth-stinger/?cat=166 Heavy work, like working underneath or breaking bolts, I like these with some impact resistance. https://www.watsongloves.com/products/005tpr-flextime/?cat=166 Most quality gloves can be washed - even the leather/goatskin gloves.
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May 19, 2020 16:09
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Are you able to order directly from Watson? It looks like their "Where to Buy" only lists canadian retailers.
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May 19, 2020 19:21
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I am an industrial wholesaler and I have several styles on my shelf, but I am by no means a married to watson.. I just like their stuff. I thought they were US too..? Never checked into it myself. I actually thought they were a US company LOL. Sorry about that! Bob Dale is another US manufacturer(and importer) and they make fantastic gloves too - especially the specialty gloves. A plant I deal with uses their stuff exclusively. Their various welding and arc gloves are great, although Watson welding gloves are tough to beat for the $$. The real trick with gloves is to use a quality brand name, and the right glove for the job. There are certainly some more multi-purpose than others, but when my company started getting into the safety side of thing I was shocked by how many different gloves and the different fits/quality versus the junk I'd usually just buy wherever. Some retailers do carry a few of the "mass market" common gloves from manufacturers, but rarely the good stuff. It's all $$ driven. Those dipped gloves in particular can be shockingly good and are way more multipurpose than I realized. Sized right, they will fit perfect and still give you the dexterity to grab tiny stuff and be cut resistant. The extra grip on some of them make holding slippery tools soooo much easier.
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May 19, 2020 19:32
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Speaking of gloves, when I first was learning how to weld, I had a pair of sleeves that looked something like this, but they were Kevlar lined, heat and abrasion resistant. Is that still a thing? (The linked one may do well enough, I just remember the Kevlar ones working really well and I'd like to get another set if possible.)
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May 19, 2020 19:33
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Oh yeah, for sure. Sell lots of them, but not as many gloves. Welders are extremely fussy with their gloves and sleeves. https://www.superiorglove.com/en/made-in-canada/protective-arm-sleeves-made-in-canada Here is an oldschool cowhide https://www.watsongloves.com/products/sleeves-welders-sleeves/ Many glove companies make sleeves, but usually not as many different types. Superior (that top link) probably make the most varied selection. Some companies make the big chainmail gloves for meat processing which for some reason I am fascinated with. slidebite fucked around with this message at 20:05 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 19:44
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I have been very happy with my Mechanix for a long time.
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May 19, 2020 19:54
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If you want nitrile gloves that don't suck, I recommend these guys tough, good non-slip texture, come sized for people with giant mitts.
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May 19, 2020 20:17
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