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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Goons Are Great posted:

Calling frogs, however, may or may not be a deal breaker depending on the frequency and the actual volume they have - usually I'm quite tolerant with sleeping with noise, but doing so for years to come might not be ideal, so I'd take a step back from that option.

So, in many (but not all) species, it's only the males that call, so you could in theory just get a female of a species where the females don't call. But, in some species it's difficult to sex them, and frogs are typically sold by breeders as young as possible (basically as soon as the tails are absorbed) because that minimizes their costs per frog; but that doesn't mean you can't do it.

quote:

Basic climate control is entirely fine, I'd prefer not to go full tropical though, to at least limit all of the things going on. As far as I read about it so far, that also tends to be a thing (correct me if it's not like that) for many frogs and is another contra point for them.
There are a lot of wonderful tropical frogs, that's true, but there's also a lot of temperate or temperate-tolerant frogs, too. The poison dart frog species I've kept all prefer "normal room temperature" ranges - like, 60 to 80 degrees F (~15-27 C), although they originate in tropical zones these particular species tend to live higher up on slopes of mountains where the temps are cooler. My firebellied toads originate in Asia, mostly in temperate zones, and similarly don't require any heating/cooling. However, humidity control is still an issue with many temperate frog species: even the fully terrestrial ones you need to keep an eye on humidity of the soil and air in their environments. This doesn't have to be an automated setup if you're OK with spraying water from a water bottle daily, though.

I'm not trying to talk you into a frog or other amphibian; just, so far your requirements don't fully eliminate them as an option, you'd just have to pick species carefully and be willing to look at a hygrometer in the tank and add mist/water as needed, which might be more work than you want.

quote:

So, basically I'm looking for a typically rather easy to keep, interesting frog, snake or arachnid where breeding is not a notable thing and sensible climate control systems are not necessarily needed. Nocturnal or generally calm/inactive is super fine, disgust or wow!s by other are not part of the question and if it fits in the existing tank and/or maybe even works more or less in conjunction with the feeding insects and tools I already have, that's a nice bonus, but entirely optional.

Yup. That's still quite broad of course. Anything from a leopard gecko to a small snake to a temperate-zone female frog is still on the table. Many reptiles also need heat and/or humidity control too, though; how do you feel about a heat lamp, spraying, etc.?

What you might do if they exist in your area is visit a herp convention, or a reptile pet store, and just browse and see what looks cool to you? Don't buy on the spot, just get some ideas and write them down so you can then do your research.

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snake and bake
Feb 23, 2005

:theroni:

Goons Are Great posted:

So, basically I'm looking for a typically rather easy to keep, interesting frog, snake or arachnid where breeding is not a notable thing and sensible climate control systems are not necessarily needed. Nocturnal or generally calm/inactive is super fine, disgust or wow!s by other are not part of the question and if it fits in the existing tank and/or maybe even works more or less in conjunction with the feeding insects and tools I already have, that's a nice bonus, but entirely optional.

My suggestion is a crested gecko. A young one would be fine in the enclosure you have now, but you'd probably want to upgrade to something taller eventually. They're aboreal and nocturnal. Super easy to care for, easy to find/buy, available in a range of prices depending on their color, and are usually super chill and fine with being handled. They can vocalize but I've had 2 for years and never hear a peep out of them.

They don't require lights at all. No UV required. They're most comfortable at 78-82 degrees, but a bit lower is fine, so unless you keep your house super cold you probably won't need to provide heat. But if you keep your house warmer than 82, a crestie is probably not a good choice for you.

Their diet is so easy. They do just fine on a powdered food that you mix with water as needed. The Pangea brand mix is well regarded and my cresties love all the different flavors, but there are a few other different options (Repashy, etc). You can give them live insects as treats if you dust them with calcium powder. Mine especially enjoy crickets and waxworms.

If you're looking to buy online, Pangea sells cresties on their site, and MorphMarket has a crestie section.

Dapper_Swindler
Feb 14, 2012

Im glad my instant dislike in you has been validated again and again.

snake and bake posted:

My suggestion is a crested gecko. A young one would be fine in the enclosure you have now, but you'd probably want to upgrade to something taller eventually. They're aboreal and nocturnal. Super easy to care for, easy to find/buy, available in a range of prices depending on their color, and are usually super chill and fine with being handled. They can vocalize but I've had 2 for years and never hear a peep out of them.

They don't require lights at all. No UV required. They're most comfortable at 78-82 degrees, but a bit lower is fine, so unless you keep your house super cold you probably won't need to provide heat. But if you keep your house warmer than 82, a crestie is probably not a good choice for you.

Their diet is so easy. They do just fine on a powdered food that you mix with water as needed. The Pangea brand mix is well regarded and my cresties love all the different flavors, but there are a few other different options (Repashy, etc). You can give them live insects as treats if you dust them with calcium powder. Mine especially enjoy crickets and waxworms.

If you're looking to buy online, Pangea sells cresties on their site, and MorphMarket has a crestie section.

seconding this. my second Crestie is a joy to be around(first one was sickly and eventually passed away), he is pretty friendly and will hang on people and things.

https://twitter.com/pengun101/status/1228571158276116482

here he is hanging with his best friend.

Goons Are Gifts
Jan 1, 1970

Thank you for the suggestions!

Leperflesh posted:

I'm not trying to talk you into a frog or other amphibian; just, so far your requirements don't fully eliminate them as an option, you'd just have to pick species carefully and be willing to look at a hygrometer in the tank and add mist/water as needed, which might be more work than you want.

Feel free to talk me into stuff! I'm rushing through options to find something I really get sold on and amphibians or frogs in particular were my initial favorite options anyways.
I didn't want to sound like I'd like to avoid any kind of work a pet may give me, hell even my insects tend to need quite the effort to keep in check. I would prefer not go into the full tropical world because I assume the machines needed for that eat energy and probably make quite some noise, which I'd like to minimize, but I'm fully fine to work with that anyways if needed.

Leperflesh posted:

Yup. That's still quite broad of course. Anything from a leopard gecko to a small snake to a temperate-zone female frog is still on the table. Many reptiles also need heat and/or humidity control too, though; how do you feel about a heat lamp, spraying, etc.?
That's entirely fine!
Unless I have to get a whole weather setup to simulate 100°F at 90% humidity 24/7, which I assume requires an extensive setup, I'm cool with getting into business.

I really like frogs, absolutely fascinating and beautiful guys, so feel free to push me over the edge on them if it's realistically possible for me.

snake and bake posted:

My suggestion is a crested gecko.

Haven't even really considered a gecko so far! Sounds really easy, I should read up on them a bit and see what their specials are.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yup I have crested and gargoyle geckos, their needs are basically the same: no temp control, you do need to spray or mist daily (they mostly drink water by licking dew), a vertically-oriented vivarium with lots of climbing stuff, and a thick soft layer of substrate because sometimes they flop down to the bottom. You can get them accustomed to handling, and if you keep males and females apart forever, the females will only lay infertile eggs. Mostly they prefer not to be housed together, but I do have two females who have lived together for a decade without an issue. The gargoyles eventually seem to stop giving a poo poo about bugs, so I don't bother offering crickets to my gargoyle any more, but the cresties love them.

They are crepuscular/nocturnal; one of my cresties is always up first, early in the evening, and the others tend to come out by mid-late evening and are always "in bed" by the time I get up. No activity during the day unless they're disturbed, but for a lot of folks this cycle works out well; you can do your interacting with your cresties in the evenings after they get up and if you normally go to work during the day, you're not missing anything.

I will just add: sometimes a crested gecko will drop their tail due to being startled by something, and they don't grow back. But people buying them tend to not buy tailless ones, so if you're OK with the idea, please consider buying someone's unwanted tailless crested gecko. They're perfectly healthy and active and it only takes them a few days to get used to not having the tail for balance etc. Also if you do get one with a tail, don't freak out if they drop it. Three out of four of mine dropped their tails: one when we were moving house, one during a tank cleaning when she kinda freaked out about being temporarily put in a carrier, and one when my cat managed to defeat the anti-cat devices and menace the geckos for an evening (they were never actually in danger, but he was batting at the glass and one panicked.)

Goons Are Gifts
Jan 1, 1970

I just looked those guys up and especially the Gargoyles are absolutely gorgeous!
I'd be a little worried about providing enough space for them to climb, what do setup do you have for them? Obviously my tank wouldn't cut it for them in longterm.

Also I'd assume they could grow back their tail, but good to know!

manero
Jan 30, 2006

Goons Are Great posted:

I just looked those guys up and especially the Gargoyles are absolutely gorgeous!
I'd be a little worried about providing enough space for them to climb, what do setup do you have for them? Obviously my tank wouldn't cut it for them in longterm.

Also I'd assume they could grow back their tail, but good to know!

I'll throw my $0.02 in for a leopard gecko. They are cool and chill and very easy to take care of. A couple dozen crickets every 1-2 weeks and they're good.

They can drop their tails, like mine did... and then he ate it :stare: He had such a satisfied look on his face after, like he just had the best thanksgiving meal ever. His tail grew back and he's fine now.

Also he's 20 years old!!

PathAsc
Nov 15, 2011

Hail SS-18 Satan may he cleanse us with nuclear fire

PISS TAPE IS REAL

Question!

So up until last week, Noodle was eating just fine. Scheduled feeding day came and he had no fucks to give and just seemed agitated. Tried again the next day, no dice. He retreated underground and we checked on him again last night. Looks like he's having a rough shed, and was agitated when we tried to handle him. He stayed topside in the warm area and I attempted to feed him again. Still agitated, no real "hunger reaction" at all. I brained the mouse last time, haven't this time yet. I've moved him to a quieter area in his feeding bowl down where I'm working and hoping he eats while left alone.

Environment hasn't changed, there's no disruption to the timers or anything, and I've checked for any other oddities in the area I've got him in. Any ideas on what else I might try? I wanted to check here first before checking elsewhere, but I'm at a loss.


In other news, sunny is pretty chill about being handled now and happily perches on shoulders and has a voracious appetite this past couple of weeks. He had a small shed of head scales last week and has been pretty active! 3 years and drat he's so much bigger than he was when I got him!

E: wording on lizard stuff

snake and bake
Feb 23, 2005

:theroni:
What species is Noodle?

PathAsc
Nov 15, 2011

Hail SS-18 Satan may he cleanse us with nuclear fire

PISS TAPE IS REAL

snake and bake posted:

What species is Noodle?

Kenyan Sand Boa, sorry I forgot to throw that in there.

Update: Still doesn't care for food. I put him back in his home and he hosed off underground pretty quickly. Still agitated, but seems to be moving about just fine.

PathAsc fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Apr 27, 2020

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Goons Are Great posted:

I just looked those guys up and especially the Gargoyles are absolutely gorgeous!
I'd be a little worried about providing enough space for them to climb, what do setup do you have for them? Obviously my tank wouldn't cut it for them in longterm.

Also I'd assume they could grow back their tail, but good to know!

I've got various standard 20 gallon tanks set up on their small sides, so they're tall and with sliding-off lids that work as doors; one tank for one crested gecko. To be honest that's not the best setup but it's what we had at the time and they've done fine with it for a decade, but if I was going to start again I'd go taller for all my tanks, and buy shelving that would suit that. I have two female cresties who get along well together, housed in a zoo-med 12"x12"x18" terrarium and I would recommend that as a good option, even better would be 12"x12"x24" tall one although that would be too tall for our shelves. . We have a plank of wood that we set on top of the screened area and shift a little to let in more or less air as needed in order to maintain decent humidity. If you do get one, remove the styrofoam back, but apply paper or something to the outside of one or two sides to reduce the sense the gecko might have of too much "open space" around them.

The main thing is to go vertical rather than horizontal, and then fill a lot of that vertical space with branches and hides. They're arboreal and feel comfortable high up. But then, they will splat onto the floor of their terrarium regularly, so we use a good thick (like two+ inch thick) layer of sphagnum moss, which also does a great job of holding and slowly releasing moisture for humidity, plus they (the cresties that is) love to burrow into it to sleep. The gargoyle almost always sleeps on the back of a piece of cork bark we have in there, or sometimes just stuck to the glass.

Also keep in mind they poop everywhere so you'll need to stay on top of cleaning. I use just water in a spray bottle for regular (like weekly) cleaning of glass, and then every couple or three months I remove geckos from tanks and take the tanks to the kitchen counter and remove everything and wash it with soap and water and then dry thoroughly. If you want to be able to move the tanks to do complete cleaning, keep that in mind when you buy them, like my wife can help me take them down off the shelf and make sure I don't smash the goddamn things because they are big unwieldy awkward glass things. You can also clean in-place but that means no sink, so maybe you're using a bucket of water and some gloves and you gotta do a lot of wiping and sponging or whatever to get all the poop water out once you've wet everything down etc. etc.

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer

PathAsc posted:

Kenyan Sand Boa, sorry I forgot to throw that in there.

Update: Still doesn't care for food. I put him back in his home and he hosed off underground pretty quickly. Still agitated, but seems to be moving about just fine.

Is he a male? I have a 15 year old boy who has been off feed for a few months now.

And then there is Ax, my lucy ball python, who is going nuts and exploring his cage like mad. He's due for a shed and we jumped from the 80's to 100's in a day or so, but his tank is heated fine. Have no idea why he is climbing all over right now, breeding season is over for this young man and his girl seems gravid.

PathAsc
Nov 15, 2011

Hail SS-18 Satan may he cleanse us with nuclear fire

PISS TAPE IS REAL

Cowslips Warren posted:

Is he a male? I have a 15 year old boy who has been off feed for a few months now.

And then there is Ax, my lucy ball python, who is going nuts and exploring his cage like mad. He's due for a shed and we jumped from the 80's to 100's in a day or so, but his tank is heated fine. Have no idea why he is climbing all over right now, breeding season is over for this young man and his girl seems gravid.

Yeah, male. He's been active a bit today, so I'm going to try another feed tomorrow.

PathAsc
Nov 15, 2011

Hail SS-18 Satan may he cleanse us with nuclear fire

PISS TAPE IS REAL

Well, I saw him attempting to break the old skin open last night right as the lights went out, this morning he's about 3/4 done with the shed!

Thank gently caress, I was worried for nothing but this shed was taking so long it really was weird. He's all bright and shiny, mobile, and hopefully ready to eat today/tomorrow.

All I want to do is watch him finish his shed, but I have meetings all drat day lol

my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat



yumchtime

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

That’s so rad

PathAsc
Nov 15, 2011

Hail SS-18 Satan may he cleanse us with nuclear fire

PISS TAPE IS REAL


That's a good scaledog right there

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Anybody here have experience with Heterometrus spinifer (Asian forest scorpions)? I’m being offered one and I hear they’re probably the easiest scorpion but Idk what that actually means. I’m inclined to say ‘yes’ because I’m certainly not the sort of rear end in a top hat to say ‘no’ to free scorpion, but also I’d love to hear about any pitfalls, etc.

How often do they need a feeding? Can you feed grubs (“worms”)? I already feed those to my turtles. My inclination is no, since I’ve never seen a scorpion eat anything that wasn’t a roach or cricket, but man gently caress keeping roaches or crickets.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Update: I have a scorpion now. Came with a free Kritter Keeper which is too small but a useful thing to have. Maybe I’ll keep crickets in it (ugh. People seem to have lots of success with wigglies). Initial enclosure setup isn’t too hard. I’ll post pics if ppl want them.

Goons Are Gifts
Jan 1, 1970

Ok Comboomer posted:

Update: I have a scorpion now. Came with a free Kritter Keeper which is too small but a useful thing to have. Maybe I’ll keep crickets in it (ugh. People seem to have lots of success with wigglies). Initial enclosure setup isn’t too hard. I’ll post pics if ppl want them.

Please do! Currently working on my setup and I'm pumped to see some pictures of yours and the new inhabitant.

Cless Alvein
May 25, 2007
Bloopity Bloo
I kept them years ago. They are very similar to emperor scorpions. A little smaller and a bit less docile, but overall very tame. Like most of the big scorpions they mostly pinch instead of using their fairly weak venom.

As long as they have water, they can go months without food. So like once or twice a week is fine. I dunno what you mean by grubs, but they will eat mealworms and superworms. I've never tried anything else, but you can try offering it preferably at night to see if it'll eat it.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Yep, I meant mealworms/waxworms/etc. I call em grubs because they are grubs, not worms dammit! :argh:

They’re insect larvae

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Ok Comboomer posted:

I made a scorpion’s house today. Will post pics soon. Right now the glue is drying on some supports for a burrow.

Also just discovered that my turts have been able to get up on the jerry-rigged basking spots I made for their temporary enclosures last week (and that I had figured were total failures). Also either they are so tame at this point that you can get right in their faces during basking and they’re like “sup” or the basking ramps are way too tall and the animals were terrified of jumping off at the first sign of trouble as I’ve seen pretty much every Eastern Painted turtle do.

I’ve met other turtles that were super chill about that tho, and maybe it’s an experience/personality thing with these dudes. Either way I was pretty proud, I honestly didn’t think they had the leg strength to clamber up.

Tahirovic
Feb 25, 2009
Fun Shoe

Ok Comboomer posted:

Update: I have a scorpion now. Came with a free Kritter Keeper which is too small but a useful thing to have. Maybe I’ll keep crickets in it (ugh. People seem to have lots of success with wigglies). Initial enclosure setup isn’t too hard. I’ll post pics if ppl want them.

As a lurker in this thread, who is not in a position to get a herp right now (uromastyx ornata is on my wishlist), please post pics! Everyone post pics!

Viperidae
Feb 7, 2007
Arf!

Tahirovic posted:

As a lurker in this thread, who is not in a position to get a herp right now (uromastyx ornata is on my wishlist), please post pics! Everyone post pics!

Here are a few of my boy Montgomery. He is an Ackie monitor.














He is a bit chunky and is currently on a diet.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Viperidae posted:

Here are a few of my boy Montgomery. He is an Ackie monitor.














He is a bit chunky and is currently on a diet.

loving jealous! Ackies and tegus are on my herp bucket list. Which is to say that my herp bucket list isn’t particularly unreasonable, but it will probably require me to own a home ( :sigh: ).

Anyway. Yeah, I was gonna say he looks like a chonker. I know it’s bad but I love slightly obese (rubinesque?) pets. I work in evolutionary bio and so much of the story is being on the edge of starvation and riddled with parasites, so I guess I’m just fond of/interested in animals that get to live in hedonic bliss.

How do you manage heat/humidity? His enclosure looks nice and big but don’t the plants melt or get soft (I’m assuming they’re plastic) if it’s kept 110+?

Tahirovic posted:

As a lurker in this thread, who is not in a position to get a herp right now (uromastyx ornata is on my wishlist), please post pics! Everyone post pics!

Will do. I used a $13 Sterilite Gasket Box (in a very lovely shade of blue :) )—I think it’s 24 or 26 qt? IDK, I tossed the sticker. It’s really nice and thick plastic, transparent, but a PITA to cut through without the right tools (if only I had easy access to a Dremel or drill). Nothing fancy, just a half inch of aquarium gravel, some larger stones to aid in drainage, then maybe 4-5” of eco earth + sphagnum moss and a $0.79 plastic bowl with some stones in it for water. Anybody can afford a scorpion.

trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 13:19 on May 12, 2020

Cardiovorax
Jun 5, 2011

I mean, if you're a successful actress and you go out of the house in a skirt and without underwear, knowing that paparazzi are just waiting for opportunities like this and that it has happened many times before, then there's really nobody you can blame for it but yourself.
I've never seen a lizard that looked so much like a Montgomery. Someone 'shop a monocle and a little top hat on him.

Ok Comboomer posted:

Anyway. Yeah, I was gonna say he looks like a chonker. I know it’s bad but I love slightly obese (rubinesque?) pets. I work in evolutionary bio and so much of the story is being on the edge of starvation and riddled with parasites, so I guess I’m just fond of/interested in animals that get to live in hedonic bliss.
It's kind of funny, since you bring up Rubenesque figures, but from what I remember of art history and sociology, the reason why so many medieval standards of beauty involved being a bit chuftier than the average are pretty much the same. It's a representation of health, wealth and happiness.

Cardiovorax fucked around with this message at 13:21 on May 12, 2020

Viperidae
Feb 7, 2007
Arf!

Ok Comboomer posted:


How do you manage heat/humidity? His enclosure looks nice and big but don’t the plants melt or get soft (I’m assuming they’re plastic) if it’s kept 110+?


His cage is quite large. 200x90x90cm (about 7' x 3' x 3') with a foot of soil for him to dig in. All the plants are live and it is bioactive.

He has a retes stack as a basking spot with 2 HID bulbs and a heat emitter. The top surface is at 63 degrees celsius (145F).
On the other end there is another heat emitter on a dimmer that heats the wood to a max of 40 degrees (104F) at the tallest point. The coolest spot in the enclosure is at 24C (75F) next to the water bowl.

There are two 3" vents in the top. One on each side. The heat from his basking spot makes the air circulate. But it keeps humidity really well. Too well in fact. He is having some shedding issues from too high humidity. I have managed to drop it down to around 50% which seems to be helping. His burrow stays nice and humid deep in the soil.

Edit:

Viperidae fucked around with this message at 13:54 on May 12, 2020

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Viperidae posted:

His cage is quite large. 200x90x90cm (about 7' x 3' x 3') with a foot of soil for him to dig in. All the plants are live and it is bioactive.

He has a retes stack as a basking spot with 2 HID bulbs and a heat emitter. The top surface is at 63 degrees celsius (145F).
On the other end there is another heat emitter on a dimmer that heats the wood to a max of 40 degrees (104F) at the tallest point. The coolest spot in the enclosure is at 24C (75F) next to the water bowl.

There are two 3" vents in the top. One on each side. The heat from his basking spot makes the air circulate. But it keeps humidity really well. Too well in fact. He is having some shedding issues from too high humidity. I have managed to drop it down to around 50% which seems to be helping. His burrow stays nice and humid deep in the soil.

Edit:



That’s so loving rad (aside from the humidity issues). Did you build that enclosure or have it made/purchase it?

Viperidae
Feb 7, 2007
Arf!
I built that myself. Swedish law says that a lizard of 51-70cm should have at least 1.8sqm of floor space.

With all the soil in there it weighs close to 600kg.

Tahirovic
Feb 25, 2009
Fun Shoe

Viperidae posted:

Here are a few of my boy Montgomery. He is an Ackie monitor.






He is a bit chunky and is currently on a diet.

Thank you, made my day, he's such a cutie.

Edit: Not sure if it's ok to post pics of other people's herps, but I found these two too nice to not share. Since I don't have my own herps the ones at the zoo have to do for me. Luckily Zurich Zoo has a nice selection of them and I lucked out with these pics on my last pre-lockdown visit in March.

Uroplatus fimbriantus (some cutie from Madagascar, the Zoo has a huge cooperation with them and even built a huge rainforest hall):



Tahirovic fucked around with this message at 10:24 on May 13, 2020

Dapper_Swindler
Feb 14, 2012

Im glad my instant dislike in you has been validated again and again.
so my two gecko sisters ended up being not that and i caught them mating, i seperated them and than i found 2 eggs today. i made a DIY incubator and am keeping them in it. i tried talking to herpers on facebook about for advice but they just told me to toss the eggs because they didnt have my geckos genetics mapped and poo poo. i am obviously not gonna do that. i know there will be a couple eggs coming in the future but i want to try to hatch some of them at least. https://twitter.com/pengun101/status/1262476164414701569

i didnt have perwit/etc so i used frog moss, i can get that stuff tomorrow or the following.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Dapper_Swindler posted:

so my two gecko sisters ended up being not that and i caught them mating, i seperated them and than i found 2 eggs today. i made a DIY incubator and am keeping them in it. i tried talking to herpers on facebook about for advice but they just told me to toss the eggs because they didnt have my geckos genetics mapped and poo poo. i am obviously not gonna do that. i know there will be a couple eggs coming in the future but i want to try to hatch some of them at least. https://twitter.com/pengun101/status/1262476164414701569

i didnt have perwit/etc so i used frog moss, i can get that stuff tomorrow or the following.

So that’s what those are (from USPOL)

Nice job! How’re you incubating? Looks good so far aside from the accidental inbreeding (I assume the proud parents are siblings despite not being sisters).

I mean, one generation inbreeding ain’t too bad :P

Just don’t let these babies breed with each other or their parents and you’re fine :imunfunny:

Dapper_Swindler
Feb 14, 2012

Im glad my instant dislike in you has been validated again and again.

Ok Comboomer posted:

So that’s what those are (from USPOL)

Nice job! How’re you incubating? Looks good so far aside from the accidental inbreeding (I assume the proud parents are siblings despite not being sisters).

I mean, one generation inbreeding ain’t too bad :P

Just don’t let these babies breed with each other or their parents and you’re fine :imunfunny:

lol. i was just paying taxes on that thread but i dont think they are siblings, i got them a month apart of so from the petco i worked at last year(gently caress that place) i basicaly put them in wettish moss in an yogurt container(with airholes in the top) insider the dads big house. i use heat emitters (get about 93 or so on the hot end). i dont really have money for a real incubator but it seems to be working and i will get better substrain/container tomorrow if i need facebook group says she will have more eggs apparently. but they also told me to smash the current eggs because gecko eugenics.
https://twitter.com/pengun101/status/1262631538111451136

Dapper_Swindler fucked around with this message at 07:30 on May 19, 2020

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer
When I had leopard geckos, the females wouldlay eggs quite often in their shed box, which was a plastic shoe box with a hole cut in the top, filled with sphagnum peat moss kept pretty wet and underneath one of the heat lights. I think I had four or five babies hatch out over the course of the years that I had the colony, and never once did I actually see any breeding or any egg-laying. They were probably more, but the parents would eat them if they could...

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Cowslips Warren posted:

When I had leopard geckos, the females wouldlay eggs quite often in their shed box, which was a plastic shoe box with a hole cut in the top, filled with sphagnum peat moss kept pretty wet and underneath one of the heat lights. I think I had four or five babies hatch out over the course of the years that I had the colony, and never once did I actually see any breeding or any egg-laying. They were probably more, but the parents would eat them if they could...

The eggs or the babies?

Dapper_Swindler
Feb 14, 2012

Im glad my instant dislike in you has been validated again and again.

Cowslips Warren posted:

When I had leopard geckos, the females wouldlay eggs quite often in their shed box, which was a plastic shoe box with a hole cut in the top, filled with sphagnum peat moss kept pretty wet and underneath one of the heat lights. I think I had four or five babies hatch out over the course of the years that I had the colony, and never once did I actually see any breeding or any egg-laying. They were probably more, but the parents would eat them if they could...

I mean that’s what I have right now but she laid the eggs in her dish plus I didn’t know she was pregnant.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Dapper_Swindler posted:

plus I didn’t know she was pregnant

:allears: classic Tennessee (you’re in TN right?)

anyway- if you’re concerned and wanna make an inexpensive incubator you can make one really easily with a styrofoam cooler, a 4w (small) tank heater and a cheap tank thermostat. Or just keep the eggs in a sealed box (gladware/etc) like they’re already in inside the enclosure so the parents can’t get at them.

Just wanna make sure they don’t get poached or too cold, but where you have them now is probably a good spot assuming nobody eats or crushes them. My one concern would be temp fluctuations- an ideal nest remains relatively constant/with very slow transients. Having the eggs exposed in the enclosure like that means that they probably get a bit cooler at night and a bit warmer in the day. Maybe bury them under a layer of moss to keep the temp a bit more consistent between the day/night cycle? Or keep them in an area that stays constant (near heat pad, in shed box, etc).

Congrats on your gecko shotgun wedding

trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 14:56 on May 19, 2020

Dapper_Swindler
Feb 14, 2012

Im glad my instant dislike in you has been validated again and again.

Ok Comboomer posted:

:allears: classic Tennessee (you’re in TN right?)

anyway- if you’re concerned and wanna make an inexpensive incubator you can make one really easily with a styrofoam cooler, a 4w (small) tank heater and a cheap tank thermostat. Or just keep the eggs in a sealed box (gladware/etc) like they’re already in inside the enclosure so the parents can’t get at them.

Just wanna make sure they don’t get poached or too cold, but where you have them now is probably a good spot assuming nobody eats or crushes them. My one concern would be temp fluctuations- an ideal nest remains relatively constant/with very slow transients. Having the eggs exposed in the enclosure like that means that they probably get a bit cooler at night and a bit warmer in the day. Maybe bury them under a layer of moss to keep the temp a bit more consistent between the day/night cycle? Or keep them in an area that stays constant (near heat pad, in shed box, etc).

Congrats on your gecko shotgun wedding

nah, ruralish PA. so basicaly the same thing. i have the eggs in a weiss's yogurt contain with frog moss thats sorta wet. it has a lid on it with tiny holes in the top. its also next to the heat emiters so it stays warm. heat emiter keeps the cage at about 93 on the hot side.



here is my dumbass set up.

Edit.

and update on my lovely redneck DIY set up.





Dapper_Swindler fucked around with this message at 20:38 on May 19, 2020

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Cless Alvein
May 25, 2007
Bloopity Bloo
My sister has a crested who she got as adult from local pet shop. He was never really handled or socialized, so runs and poops on you when picked up. Lately whenever I go in there at night, he comes out front and stares at me to see if I am there to replace his food. Yesterday I opened his door and he lept out at all the cups I had set up to feed everyone. Goofy gently caress, he is. At least food seems like a good way to get him to be a little less of a butthead about being handled.

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