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I asked in the Volvo thread but I think this thread is better. What's the easiest DIY way of testing which diesel injector that might be bad? I have an iCarsoft reader for the car, so there might be some data I can get from it. The reason I suspect the injector(s) are bad is because as super knocky sound under acceleration that isn't there when engine braking regardless of RPM. Varies a bit from day to day as well apparently. 2014 Volvo D3 engine (5-cyl diesel). Also, wow are injectors expensive.
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May 15, 2020 07:30
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With a duramax, there was a PID called injector balance that represented how hard the ECM was trying to control fuel going to each injector. So if one was spraying more fuel than it should, the ECM would try to pull that back and it would show up on the test. I don’t know if that applies to volvo. I do know that in the US a 2014 diesel vehicle would have a DPF and SCR system that you will ruin in a heartbeat if you continue to drive with a bad injector. So get it checked out.
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May 15, 2020 11:55
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I'm no expert but on earlier models* you can read the injector offset with vida/dice and a failing one should have a large offset. * I have a 2004 so thats the newest thing I've used with VIDA taqueso fucked around with this message at 15:14 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 15:10
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From this 2 second clip: https://streamable.com/wn1mss Radiator or head gasket?
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May 16, 2020 10:46
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I'm going with radiator. Bit again 2 second clip.
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May 16, 2020 11:11
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Looks like radiator, but then again this is a Subaru so. 
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May 16, 2020 11:14
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I mean, my Subaru did exactly the same thing when the radiator popped, but not to that degree. Probably needs head gaskets after this though, it's obviously pretty drat hot.
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May 16, 2020 15:25
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Just did my rear brake pads and rotors. Took it for a test drive and when I came back, I checked the rotor temps with one of those laser infrared thermometers. Passenger side was 130 degrees or so. I forget which, type of degrees, freedom or Communist, but it doesn't really matter. Driver's side was closer to 350 degrees. This is the side that I've always seemed to have trouble with. The caliper on that side has been replaced twice now because the parking brake mechanism has started to stick. Same problem with both calipers that I've replaced. Most recent replacement of that caliper was less than a year ago IIRC. I don't know what the poo poo could be the problem. I pretty much did everything the same as the passenger side, but the driver's side was considerably hotter. If anything I might have used a bit more lube on the driver side (for no reason in particular), but still used less than I normally would have. The pads are Akebono, Rotors are Power Stop coated, from Rock auto. Never checked the temps on the front, so maybe its not so much that the driver, rear is too hot, but maybe its the passenger rear thats not working as it should. But, I could smell a bit of too hot brakes when I got next to the D/R wheel so most likely the problem is the D/R. Aside from "your piece of poo poo caliper needs replacement again", any suggestions as to what I should look for? In theory everything is clean and freshly lubricated so, signs point to caliper, but maybe there is something I've overlooked. Also other question: How do anti rust coatings on rotors affect pad/rotor break in?
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May 16, 2020 18:37
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wesleywillis posted:Also other question: How do anti rust coatings on rotors affect pad/rotor break in? Imperceptibly. That coat of paint gets sanded off immediately on your first moderately intense stop.
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May 16, 2020 19:07
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What kind of car, and what’s the parking brake mechanism look like? If your parking brake is misadjusted and dragging that could easily do it. Have you verified that the caliper is clamping the pads on brake application and releasing appropriately?
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May 16, 2020 19:29
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'09 Corolla. Parking brake mechanism is in the caliper, rather than a drum in disc type set up. Went for a drive again, and checked the temps at all four corners. Fronts were both consistent, a hundred fifty something-ish, P/Rear was somewhere in that neighbourhood too Maybe 130ish, and D/Rear was higher, but less higher. Two hundred and thirty something IIRC I haven't tried checking the parking brake yet but will shortly. I was going to lift the wheel and listen for scraping/grinding noises, and see what I hear, maybe I'd be best off lifting both rears so I can compare with the Parking brake cranked on and off etc. Will report back in a bit. Hopefully I find something ridiculous that I forgot to do, rather than having to put Caliper number 4 on that corner.
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May 16, 2020 19:46
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Does anyone have experience with or a resource for a "universal" replacement parking brake cable? Cables for the International are not available, and it's a dead simple system. Its a foot pedal to a mount that has an equilizer and one long cable to the rear drums. I noticed one side has frayed wires, so I'd like to swap it since when it breaks then both sides will be free. I only want to replace the rear section, but I'll do whatever. I have seen products, but I don't see good sources for measurements and planning.
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May 16, 2020 19:51
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wesleywillis posted:'09 Corolla. Parking brake mechanism is in the caliper, rather than a drum in disc type set up. Shamelessly quoting myself because updates etc.. Jacked up the back end, went to spin the passenger side like the big wheel on The Price Is Right and that bitch must have gone around ten times. Or maybe less than that but it was spinning for several turns at least. The driver side, I tried the same thing and it maybe spun 1 and a half, two turns tops. Cranked up the parking brake and annoyingly, the passenger side could still be spun by hand, although with considerable difficulty. Driver side wouldn't budge and I gave it the good ol' college try. Looking at both calipers, the lever on the outside thats attached to the parking brake cable returns back to the little piece of metal that is normally rests against, at which point, it is very easy to disconnect the cable. Which is the way its always been. When disconnected, both cables move back and forth in their sheaths very easily, so I feel like I can rule out the cables being seized, or starting to seize. Going inside the car, in the past, when the older calipers were very obviously sticking, I could let off on the lever after say, sitting overnight, and then pull up sometimes as many as four clicks before encountering any sort of resistance which, to me would indicate that something (such as the lever on the lovely caliper) wasn't moving all the way back to its normal released position. In those cases, the lever would just kinda stop going all the way back to the released position eventually. I'm leaning towards the parking brake mechanism being internally hosed, again, and now I'll need Caliper number four on that wheel, but I'm willing to hear suggestions. For now I'm going to screw the piston in and out a few times because that will obviously kill some time and why the gently caress not? Ironically enough, when I returned the last caliper for the core charge to Rock Auto, I took the store credit rather than just getting a refund. I used that store credit to buy the calipers and pads that I just put on this fuckin thing. 
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May 16, 2020 20:30
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wesleywillis posted:Shamelessly quoting myself because updates etc.. Does the lever move in a reasonable and consistent fashion, between sides? Can you (perhaps using a pry bar) actuate the parking brake with the cable detached and stop the passenger side? If you take the cable off, does the driver side rotate more normally?
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May 16, 2020 20:41
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Krakkles posted:The cable shouldn’t be easy to remove - most cars I’ve worked on, you have to pull the lever into a particular position, then work the cable out. I suppose I don't know what it was like from the factory, but I've never adjusted the parking brake. So that could be the reason why its so easy to remove from the lever on the caliper. I've never been able to figure out how to get at the adjustment nut on the lever inside the car. Admittedly, I haven't put tons of thought in to it though. That being said, I've never had the cables pop off the calpier levers. Cable off on the driver side doesn't change anything. It still seems to drag, which is why I'm leaning to it being internal of the caliper. I'll see what I can do about checking the passenger side, I don't know if I could fit anything in there that would give me enough leverage to clamp the parking brake down with the wheel on there because of clearance issues. With the wheel off, and caliper off, I can use finger pressure to squeeze the pads on to the rotor and stop it/the hub from turning. ^^^^^ Super fake edit, can't really get anything in there to give me decent leverage Fake edit: I didn't measure, but when I had the parking brake on, it *appeared* that the levers on both sides had been pulled equal distances. Another fake edit, because I thought I'd already hit the post button: Got underneath the car and tried to move the levers on the backs of the calipers. The lever on the "good" caliper can't be moved by hand. Lever on the "bad" caliper can be moved a bit before encountering resistance. I suspect that maybe thats because something internally is not retracting back against whatever the lever is moving/turning. BUT, that may also be some kind of psychological poo poo where I'm trying to rationalize whatever it is that I already suspected was wrong. Further, when I was underneath, on the "good" side, the rust resistant coating had been completely worn off on the back side of that rotor, while on the "bad" side, it appears that the inner pad hasn't worn off all of the rust coating. Glad I got that wheel off already, guess I need to take some more poo poo apart.
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May 16, 2020 21:22
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wesleywillis posted:...
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May 16, 2020 21:45
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Try pulling the trim from the parking brake lever, there's usually a pair of studs under there for adjusting left/ right bias.
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May 16, 2020 21:50
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How did the slide pins look? I smoked a set of rear pads because P.O. had someone do a lovely brake job, so the slide pins locked up.
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May 16, 2020 21:51
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^^^^^^^^^ E: I just greased them bitches, they move freely, and did even before I replaced the pads/rotors. Krakkles posted:Yeah, sounds like something is wrong on that caliper. With the cable off, the parking brake should not be holding the wheel with any particular tension. The fact that one pad appears not to have burnt off the coating makes me think the caliper is jammed - can you get someone to look (or point a camera) at the brake and see it actuate when the pedal is depressed? If one pad is unworn, there's a decent chance that side of the caliper isn't clamping the pad onto the rotor at all, parking or standard brake. Thanks for all the replies. I think I figured out at least part of the problem. The piston is the type that you have to screw back in to the caliper. Its got like an X shaped kind of face to it. I looked at the inner pad on the bad side, it was definitely sitting cocked in its mount. When I put that caliper on, even having the piston screwed all the way in, it was a bit of a pain to get it lined up so I could put the bolts in. Turns out there is a little nub on the bottom of the pad backing plates that must be intended to sit in the low spots on the piston face. The piston needed to be turned a bit more for that to happen. Once I turned it a bit more, the caliper went on there with room to spare. The lower part of the pad was visibly worn, (corresponding to the rotor face where the plating had been worn off), and I put a light behind it and could see light in between the rotor and pad. When I took the caliper off, it was obvious that A: there was a bit of resistance to get it off, and B: the pad would wobble while sitting in its mounting bracket thingy. I got the wheel back on and down on the ground. Going to take it for a test drive and at least see if that was the cause of my temperature problems. If I spin the bad side with the parking brake off, it spins more times than it did, but still not as many as the good solid 9 times (I counted) that the good side does. Hopefully this will solve at least half of my issues.
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May 16, 2020 22:02
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Update: Went for a drive, did some fairly hard braking, let it cool down, did some soft braking etc...... Brought my temp reader with me, and when I checked the rotors, both sides were within a couple tens of degrees like maybe +/- 15-20 degrees which seems pretty normal to me, considering the age of one caliper over the other, and the time it takes me to measure one side, while the other is cooling, as far as I'm concerned that part is normal. The parking brake however, still baffles me slightly. I still have the issue that the driver side holds better than the passenger side. In spite of this, when I went for my test drive, I pulled up the parking brake handle a few times, to check for pulling to one side or another. There was none. I should have expected the car to pull towards the driver side if one was holding better than the other, but that didn't happen. I suppose that could be accounted for by the crown in the road, though the road I was on *seems* to be flat. I know it'll be crowned at least a couple cunthairs, but this one isn't that high in the centre. I'll see if there is a way to equalize the cables inside the centre console, but that'll have to wait for another day. When I got back to the shop, I checked the brake rotor temps, and naturally, the driver side was hotter. Underneath, the inboard on the driver side rotor was cleared of the plating so at least I've resolved that problem. gently caress this poo poo, I'm done for the day. Thanks to those who posted up comments, suggestions etc..
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May 16, 2020 22:59
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Please don't say cunthairs
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May 16, 2020 23:05
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wesleywillis posted:The parking brake however, still baffles me slightly. I still have the issue that the driver side holds better than the passenger side. In spite of this, when I went for my test drive, I pulled up the parking brake handle a few times, to check for pulling to one side or another. There was none.
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May 17, 2020 01:16
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Do cops in the United States put more effort into trying to retrieve a stolen vehicle if it has full insurance, compared to a car of equal value that only has liability? I’m sure they will claim they do, but I wonder if thats truly the case. I wonder if the insurance company gives them some incentive. Because I know cops, at least in california, have arrangements with private tow companies, so why not insurance companies.
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May 17, 2020 17:46
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When I had a car stolen with no insurance whatsoever, it turned up a couple of weeks later. ... of course, they'd had it for a week by the time they called me, so it cost as much to get out of impound as it was worth before getting stolen. And it got trashed.  They wouldn't let me leave with it until I put insurance on it, unless I had it towed out. (I was homeless at the time, insurance was pretty low on my priority list - insurance was cheaper than getting it towed out though - and there were PLENTY of tow drivers in the neighborhood offering to "tow you around the block for $150" to get your car out)I don't think the cops care if it has insurance when they're looking at a stolen car (or even know if it does), they just happen to run tags and it pops up as stolen, or it might have tags that don't match the car. Either way, something prompted them to run the tags. They don't exactly put out an APB for stolen cars, they're not watching for it unless you're in a 1 stoplight town. It's just another car on the road to them unless the driver does something to make it stand out (broken windows, missing plates, lights out, driving like a dick, beat up car in a nice part of town, really nice car in a lovely part of town, or if it's a bored cop, they might run the plates and see that they either don't match the car or come up as a stolen car). Or they commit a crime (like robbery) in it, in which case cops will be on the watch for similar cars. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:30 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 17, 2020 18:22
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Then do you even have to take it out of impound? My parents had a fiasco with that a while ago, and if it's legal, I would've told them to just leave it. gently caress that '99 Ford Taurus, by the way.
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May 17, 2020 19:17
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STR posted:When I had a car stolen with no insurance whatsoever, it turned up a couple of weeks later. Nowadays the plates are being run automatically by a ALPR mounted on the car.
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May 17, 2020 19:27
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Charles posted:Please don't say cunthairs Is it the first word, the second word, or the combination that is offensive? Someone better inform Australia......... Krakkles posted:I seriously doubt you'd actually be able to perceive this. On the street, at reasonable speeds, you'd never notice the difference. Perceive the pull to one side or the other? Would one side have to be completely non functional for there to be anything noticeable?
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May 17, 2020 19:29
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wesleywillis posted:Is it the first word, the second word, or the combination that is offensive?
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May 17, 2020 19:35
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STR posted:I don't think the cops care if it has insurance when they're looking at a stolen car (or even know if it does), they just happen to run tags and it pops up as stolen, or it might have tags that don't match the car. Either way, something prompted them to run the tags. They don't exactly put out an APB for stolen cars, they're not watching for it unless you're in a 1 stoplight town. It's just another car on the road to them unless the driver does something to make it stand out (broken windows, missing plates, lights out, driving like a dick, beat up car in a nice part of town, really nice car in a lovely part of town, or if it's a bored cop, they might run the plates and see that they either don't match the car or come up as a stolen car). Or they commit a crime (like robbery) in it, in which case cops will be on the watch for similar cars. Which, I mean, is still what you said, but it's getting to be less "if they happen to" now. I'm not sure how consistently those are used, but I see them all the time in LA. wesleywillis posted:Perceive the pull to one side or the other? Would one side have to be completely non functional for there to be anything noticeable?
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May 17, 2020 19:39
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Got ya. In other news, I'm about to say gently caress this poo poo further and buy replacement caliper. I looked up my old orders on rock auto and saw that BOTH times I replaced the caliper, it was apparently with the "economy" caliper. Not sure what the hell I was thinking, but I've always gone by the rule of "don't buy the economy stuff unless you're planning on selling and just want to put in the ad that 'Part X is new'". I may even splurge for the new caliper rather than reman. E: Yeah, bought the new caliper. No core charge, so I'm going to take the busted one apart and see what the poo poo the problem is. Maybe I'll even get a rebuild kit. Problem is they only seem to come with seals and snap rings, nothing else that might actually fix the problem of the Ebrake mechanism sticking. Or will it.......? wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 21:01 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 17, 2020 20:23
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Yeah in our small town of around 300K or so it was a joy to get a vehicle out of impound. Pro-tip: Bring a few hundred in cash.
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May 17, 2020 20:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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Stupid trailer questions -- I know some of you tow and stuff. I don't. But I've got a friend that has a boat on a ~20' EZ Loader trailer. It's a single axle trailer with no brakes or anything, basically a boat cart with lights. He blew each tire last year and each tire took out its composite fender, plus bent the poo poo out of the 3/8" steel steps. Picture below shows one of the steps. Questions: 1) What's the best way to straighten out those steps? I'm thinking clamp a 2x4 to it and leverage the poo poo out of it to bend it back? 2) The fenders had marker lights which also got trashed, and one of the taillights got taken out, too. So basically, it needs a full rewire. Wires are run inside the frame, but it's pretty straight, so I'm assuming I just use the existing wires to fish the replacement harness? Anything to watch for?
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May 18, 2020 14:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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My trailer has steel light housings that get bent from time to time, I usually straighten them out with a sledge. For those I would try a jack. Brute force is the preferred method either way but be careful if the boat is still on the trailer. My trailers are full of wire splices, usually soldered and heat shrunk, if not then using the weatherproof heat shrink crimps.
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May 18, 2020 17:12
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I have 88 Winnebago chieftain and this might be the wrong forum but does anyone have any good sources for working on the electrical in an RV or just a good source for 12v systems? Or maybe just a good repair manual for RVs?
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May 18, 2020 23:06
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Ford Focus 2008 auto 2.0 petrol engine. Running when parked, went out to it this morning, no start, no crank, no lights on the dash, no power windows, can't even get it out of park. Checked the battery, got 12.8v across the terminals. Pulled the battery, cleaned the terminals up, had a little spark when I put the +ve terminal back on so something is drawing power, but it's nothing at all I can see. What's my next step? Is there a fuse that can blow that shuts off literally everything?
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May 19, 2020 05:23
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rdb posted:My trailer has steel light housings that get bent from time to time, I usually straighten them out with a sledge. For those I would try a jack. Brute force is the preferred method either way but be careful if the boat is still on the trailer. Good point with the boat on the trailer. I'll have him get it in the water, then wail on it with a big hammer. Side note: It's a 1998 trailer and EZ Loader is super responsive and helpful with finding the right parts, even thought their records don't go back that far.
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May 19, 2020 15:39
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Memento posted:Ford Focus 2008 auto 2.0 petrol engine. Running when parked, went out to it this morning, no start, no crank, no lights on the dash, no power windows, can't even get it out of park. Checked the battery, got 12.8v across the terminals. Pulled the battery, cleaned the terminals up, had a little spark when I put the +ve terminal back on so something is drawing power, but it's nothing at all I can see. Is anything in the cabin working? e: just realized you said "petrol" meaning your 2008 Focus is probably different from the one we got in the US. I'd start with the PCM fuse and keep checking from there.
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May 19, 2020 15:51
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The UK got the Gen 2 platform that was shared with Mazda and Volvo. The US kept the Gen 1 until '13 and skipped to the Gen 3.
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May 19, 2020 16:24
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Geoj posted:Is anything in the cabin working? Thanks, I checked the four fuses in the engine bay and one under the passenger side footwell that were listed as pcm fuses, all of them showed fine on the multimeter. Weirder thing is as I was in the car, checking if re-seating all of the plugs into the fuse boxes did something, when you turn the ignition on the air con light comes on really faintly. Utterly bizarre. I think I might need to call in help on this one Edit: well I'm an idiot. The problem wasn't the car, the problem was the multimeter. The battery was beyond drained. Move along goons, nothing to see here. Memento fucked around with this message at 03:18 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 03:00
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Memento posted:Edit: well I'm an idiot. The problem wasn't the car, the problem was the multimeter. The battery was beyond drained. Move along goons, nothing to see here. Heh, several of us here would have instantly said "battery" until you stated the voltage. Hopefully it is just that and not an unhappy alternator as well. Good luck.
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May 20, 2020 13:18
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