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Thanks goons, it was the nuts / bolts on the left side (where the extruder is) that were slightly loose and had some wobble. Tightened them up and printed out a usable piece, however while trying to clean some gunk off from the previous prints while it was hot somehow led me to accidentally shorting the thermistor and now the machine reads a constant temp for both bed and nozzle . Guess I need to order some and wait a few more days. On the other hand, I guess I can update to the tinymachines firmware. Edit: both temps read max temps even with the thermistors / thermostat / thermometers/ etc, unplugged. This is a board problem isnt it . Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 16:31 on May 19, 2020 |
# ? May 19, 2020 14:25 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 14:54 |
This is a great hobby because I can feel productive any time the printer is running.
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# ? May 19, 2020 18:26 |
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Parts Kit posted:Any idea on how long the printer could run on your UPS? I've also got a Prusa and unfortunately the Power Panic's rehoming induced a layer shift. I could probably figure it out using a smart plug - they measure power consumption in real-time.
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# ? May 19, 2020 18:30 |
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Random weird thought. Trying to work out how to build a washing station in my head, instead of spending $250 bucks on the anycubic one. Magnetic stirrers are about ~30 bucks for a small one, I'm thinking a basket and a jar is all that's needed (besides a lid). Can't work out how to get the basket to stay with the lid, or how to keep the basket from smacking into the spinner though...
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# ? May 19, 2020 22:47 |
Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Random weird thought. Just make the basket hang from the rim of the container, and then have the lid fit over the whole thing. 2 minute sketch: edit: you can get all kinds of baskets and containers real cheap from restaurant suppliers that would probably be able to be rigged up this way shovelbum fucked around with this message at 23:45 on May 19, 2020 |
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# ? May 19, 2020 23:40 |
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Random weird thought. I did exactly that and to do the job printed a quick and dirty thing, here it is printed upside-down. E: can't seem to find where I downloaded it from It goes into a tupperware-like container with a lid, which can in turn sit on a cheap magnetic stirrer. (The thinner the container bottom, the closer the little puck is to the stirrer plate and the better.) I just scale the model to fit whatever container dimensions. It sits over the spinner and holds the models off of it and allows good flow all around. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 16:23 on May 20, 2020 |
# ? May 20, 2020 00:04 |
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How does PLA handle acetone? That's pretty much what I'm washing the resin with at the moment...
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# ? May 20, 2020 00:36 |
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Acetone doesn't do anything to PLA over the short term, but if you soak parts in it for days they could get kinda squishy.
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# ? May 20, 2020 00:55 |
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD Might go with this, why reinvent the wheel when I can just buy a pickle jar? Just wish it said what the measurement between the bottom of the jar and the basket is.
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# ? May 20, 2020 01:01 |
Where's Ambrose with some beautiful bent wire solution
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# ? May 20, 2020 01:15 |
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD I have those exact jars and it's tight - about 2mm (the strainer has feet on the bottom that sit it above the bottom of the jar) 60 Hertz Jig fucked around with this message at 01:26 on May 20, 2020 |
# ? May 20, 2020 01:24 |
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drat. I need like a quarter inch or so. Maybe I can trim the top a bit it may be use some monofilament line to tie around one of the spokes and use that to hold it up above the spinner?
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# ? May 20, 2020 02:48 |
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Well this is gonna take a minute to install... Gotta pull 3 more wires up one of the towers, map out all the existing wires, and splice the new whip into the existing wiring. Fun times!
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# ? May 20, 2020 02:51 |
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD That looks good for manual agitation, i.e. swishing the basket up and down. Formlabs wash basins are made kind of like that and it's handy.
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# ? May 20, 2020 03:34 |
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Well, gently caress.
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# ? May 20, 2020 04:02 |
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Gross Any idea what happened?
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# ? May 20, 2020 05:41 |
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drat. Well, the good news is you don't have to troubleshoot the problem, it's pretty obvious what it is. *brohugs* man, that sucks.
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# ? May 20, 2020 06:05 |
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The FunMat HT has a little touchscreen panel, that inside of there is a "send bed to bottom" and "send bed to top" pair of options. There are limit switches at each end of travel, and it will rapid until it hits the limit switch in that direction. I like to store my half-width spool of polycarbonate under the bed to keep it dry in the chamber (there is space for a full spool, so it's definitely not hitting anything). I hit the "bed to top" option, put the spool under it as it was rapiding upwards, then hit the "bed to bottom" option. As far as I can tell, the firmware switched which endstop it was listening to, but it was still doing the "rapid until endstop" command. Since the active endstop was the bottom one, it rammed the bed straight up through the nozzle and shattered the print bed. Nothing else seems damaged (yet...), but I am pretty annoyed. The nozzle itself has a limit switch which it uses for bed probing. It ignored that one too, which would have made a nice deadman's switch. I am trying to start a warranty claim.
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# ? May 20, 2020 15:41 |
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Whoo that design is a good example of a people-killer (if it were an e.g. elevator instead of a printer, anyway)
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# ? May 20, 2020 16:11 |
insta posted:The FunMat HT has a little touchscreen panel, that inside of there is a "send bed to bottom" and "send bed to top" pair of options. There are limit switches at each end of travel, and it will rapid until it hits the limit switch in that direction. I like to store my half-width spool of polycarbonate under the bed to keep it dry in the chamber (there is space for a full spool, so it's definitely not hitting anything). I hit the "bed to top" option, put the spool under it as it was rapiding upwards, then hit the "bed to bottom" option. As far as I can tell, the firmware switched which endstop it was listening to, but it was still doing the "rapid until endstop" command. Since the active endstop was the bottom one, it rammed the bed straight up through the nozzle and shattered the print bed. Nothing else seems damaged (yet...), but I am pretty annoyed. I had never heard of this printer and now that I look it up, drat, you would expect better
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# ? May 20, 2020 16:25 |
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shovelbum posted:I had never heard of this printer and now that I look it up, drat, you would expect better I do expect better, and that's why they're gonna send me a new bed.
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# ? May 20, 2020 16:37 |
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insta posted:I do expect better, and that's why they're gonna send me a new bed. One would hope a firmware update would follow close behind. It's cool that you can get a PEEK / Ultem machine for under 5 grand but if there's only one company doing it at that price, you're probably a beta tester.
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# ? May 20, 2020 16:45 |
insta posted:I do expect better, and that's why they're gonna send me a new bed. hell yeah! i forget, are you using the high temp engineering plastics stuff for business, or is this machine just glorious decadence
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# ? May 20, 2020 17:49 |
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shovelbum posted:hell yeah! I do commissioned printing through 3D Hubs as a side business. I have a small fleet of abused MakerGear M2's for PLA / PETG, and some unreliable CR10/CR10Ses for larger PLA/PETG parts. A lot of the better paying jobs were ABS, and I couldn't stop the warping or delamination. 3D Hubs also split into "consumer" and "engineering" grades, and the decent money went over to the engineering grades (for sorta obvious reasons). 90% of the printing the machine does is ABS, which it rocks at. But, when an ULTEM job comes through, it's nice to be able to swap over to the "high temp" hotend and watch the lights in my house faintly strobe in tune to the PWM of the heaters Nothing I do personally requires ULTEM. I might print an AR lower for shiggles though.
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# ? May 20, 2020 18:22 |
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Print an Ultem Benchy and post pics?
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# ? May 20, 2020 18:59 |
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Or the part I printed successfully before exploding my bed.
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# ? May 20, 2020 19:05 |
I wish Ultem and PEEK had somewhat more dramatic properties for all the hassle in printing them. Like then you could have a benchy that could withstand a torch
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# ? May 20, 2020 19:10 |
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shovelbum posted:I wish Ultem and PEEK had somewhat more dramatic properties for all the hassle in printing them. Like then you could have a benchy that could withstand a torch I mean, the ULTEM 9085 that's printed from has a working temperature of 170C without any weakening. You could very realistically use it for automotive parts, since it would also stand up to the various solvents and oil-sprays under the hood. It's 16% the weight of aluminum, but about 40% the mechanical properties. But, in the end, it is still plastic.
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# ? May 20, 2020 19:25 |
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shovelbum posted:I had never heard of this printer and now that I look it up, drat, you would expect better I liked seeing some of the cool stuff Vision Miner sells (mostly high temp printers for engineering plastics) when Joel did a video visiting them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_KvD1yKs40 I got the sample of their bed adhesion stuff but haven't had anything to print to try it out yet.
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# ? May 20, 2020 19:54 |
insta posted:I mean, the ULTEM 9085 that's printed from has a working temperature of 170C without any weakening. You could very realistically use it for automotive parts, since it would also stand up to the various solvents and oil-sprays under the hood. It's 16% the weight of aluminum, but about 40% the mechanical properties. But, in the end, it is still plastic. Yeah, that's drat good plastic though. Aluminum is a wonder material and is unfairly maligned. There are a lot of applications where the cracking and galvanic corrosion aren't big issues. Edit: I hate how deep an enclosure the Prusa takes, bed slinging is very Y-intensive and so many off the shelf steel boxes with doors are <24" interior dimension Edit 2: the lack enclosure is 22" but I don't see how? Edit 3: CR10 goons are those things even possible to make good shovelbum fucked around with this message at 20:05 on May 20, 2020 |
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# ? May 20, 2020 19:57 |
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My CR-10 purchased from Amazon last cyber Monday has been great Bone stock, only had to shim the middle of the glass build plate with some tinfoil to counter its dishing. I got the CR-10 because I figured it would do a pretty good job stock and I'd rather do the upgrades to the more expensive variants myself if necessary. So far that has been the case and I haven't felt the need to upgrade anything yet although something resonates and makes a horrible noise that drives me crazy. Haven't bothered to track it down yet, from research it seems to be the cooling fan attachment and I can put some rubber washers on the screws and fix it. I just print slower where it tends not to resonate though. I did have build adhesion issues initially but after shimming the glass and adopting cheap hairspray it's very trouble free now. It is my third printer however and I was confident I could diagnose it and fix any of the problems people get (also got it from Amazon so I could exchange it more easily if I got a real bad one). Have to admit I didn't even adjust the belts or wheels when I assembled it. I tend to print more custom brackets, parts, and such than figures but here's a fuckofftapus next to some arms for a lamp. Probably not top notch quality but good enough for me.
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# ? May 20, 2020 21:00 |
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How often do y'all sand your prints? I've been finding using PrusaSlicer and it's supports that I tend to need to sand to get oddities away from where supports on the bed are immediate on the print object. I do still feel like I'm constantly fighting the bed mesh and over extrusion. But this doesn't ever really seem to be an issue when I do smaller prints.
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# ? May 21, 2020 02:51 |
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Set your bed to 70C, and take a time lapse of it. Don't print anything, just record the static bed. Does the accelerated video look like it's breathing?
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# ? May 21, 2020 03:15 |
drunk mutt posted:How often do y'all sand your prints? Bridges and stuff that's directly supported by supports always look a little janky for me, I mostly just try to avoid that kind of geometry. I have right now like 16 hours of printing done, but it's a mechanical assembly and a few things didn't work out quite right and it's very frustrating. I was able to sand and file some of the parts but I think I'm just going to reprint one of the sub pieces really sloppy and then try to remodel the whole thing to use more bearings and steel pins and see which I like better.
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# ? May 21, 2020 04:17 |
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I just brought an Ender 3 and run my first few prints. They've come out pretty great, but the 3Dbenchy I did had quite a bit of stringing and an anomaly on one side of the hull. I used Ultimaker Cura 4.6 as my slicer and just the default settings. I'm a complete novice at this, is there anything I need to watch out for to avoid more stringing like this?
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# ? May 21, 2020 09:40 |
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Bowdens have a lot more "momentum" if you will, so it takes a bit longer to start extruding and also to stop. You can play with the coasting setting (which will tell it to stop extruding before the actual end of a movement by an adjustable amount) or the retraction speed/distance. I think linear advance would be even more accurate but I haven't played with that and I'm not sure the stock firmwares have this setting? Dunno but just thought I'd throw it out there if you wanted to research it. Maybe EStep calibration but I think it would cause more issues if it were off. It's never a bad thing to calibrate that though.
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# ? May 21, 2020 14:07 |
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Those zits on the hull are likely where the z-layer step is happening. Searching for z seam or zits will turn up a number of things to try as possible fixes.
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# ? May 21, 2020 14:15 |
Just preordered a Snapmaker 2.0, curious to see how a 3-in-1 machine works (CNC, Laser, and 3D extrusion). Was about $1400. The only other device I have for printing is a $300 Elegoo Mars but I'm holding out on buying a larger scale resin printer once they all start going the mono-LCD route. My main complaint with resin-based printing is how toxic and messy the actual resin is, I just don't trust these cheap rear end chinese resins. Anybody have any experience with Snapmaker devices by the way?
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# ? May 21, 2020 14:17 |
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Veotax posted:I just brought an Ender 3 and run my first few prints. They've come out pretty great, but the 3Dbenchy I did had quite a bit of stringing and an anomaly on one side of the hull. Stringing can vary with the filament and printer setup, but I've got very little most of the time with my retraction settings as: In Cura you have to hit the cog in the settings and go in and checkbox the settings you want to see in the settings panel. I also use the add-on (they're in the Marketplace button up top) called Sidebar GUI so they're always present like they used to be in previous versions but that's more of a personal preference. That said, you may have to change them slightly because I've got one of the slightly tighter bowden tubes, a chinese knock-off of the capricorn stuff, but I'd give those a shot and see if they help. CHEP has a lot of really good videos on tuning the Ender 3 with Cura since that's primarily what he uses: https://youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics/videos Here's his one on reducing the seam you get from the layer starts and stops: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU1kYEE3qrQ
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# ? May 21, 2020 14:37 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 14:54 |
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Veotax posted:I just brought an Ender 3 and run my first few prints. They've come out pretty great, but the 3Dbenchy I did had quite a bit of stringing and an anomaly on one side of the hull. Looks like the Ender 3 is about $200 shipped? Is this an acceptable 2am drunk purchase? Asking for a friend. Yes I am aware I asked about $600 tier printers just a few pages back I figure even if I buy a high end printer, I'm still gonna have to slice my boat hulls into ~8x8x8" chunks anyways with Cura, plus the hull is gonna need to be faired and painted so I have a bunch of balsa coming this weekend, gonna practice building boxy 36" boat hulls with that before committing to 3D printing one out of 10 chunks and gluing them together
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# ? May 21, 2020 19:34 |