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Subjunctive posted:Questions: I have a MSI X570 A-Pro, which is not a very high end X570 board, with a 2600X. I have yet to have the chipset fan even spin up when I have been tracking in HWiNFO64. Granted, I'm doing just some gaming in not particularly demanding titles as well as web browsing, but I think it's just gonna kick in at really high demand levels where your other fans will be blowing away too. With the Great PSU Shortage. I'm stoked I picked up a Seasonic Focus GX-750 at $100 with a $20 mail in rebate earlier this year.
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# ? May 22, 2020 18:02 |
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# ? Apr 18, 2024 09:48 |
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Howdy Guys, I have 1000EUR to spend on building a new computer. Spoiler: I am a noob. But I have been doing a bit of research and am confident that I will be confident building something myself. (and I gather that at this price point I am much better off doing so). The computer will be used for general stuff and also some more intensive stuff like Unity (which I am currently learning to use) and video/sound editing- but also I would like to be able to play some games. I will only be playing on a small monitor (which I already have), and have no interest in 4k and whatnot or in upgrading the screen at all. Would be nice to be able to play the new stuff coming out on good settings for the next few years, but as mostly a console gamer I am not really sensitive to frame rate dips. I gather that now (given the current pandemic) is not the best time to be buying computer components- I would (for tax reasons) be looking to do this this year, but would it be good to hold off? Given the above I am considering this list... https://techbuyersguru.com/1000-gamingproductivity-pc-build I was wondering if you guys had any advice - and if that list is rubbish, would mind pointing me in the direction of a better ones- or more suitable components. As I said, I am a novice when it comes to this stuff.... Cheers Edit: I live in Germany...
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# ? May 22, 2020 18:16 |
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Specific question about the Fractal Define R5: This thing has a hilariously large number of places to stick extra 120mm/140mm fans. Where do you get the most bang for the buck adding a 3rd fan? Adding a 2nd front intake fan? Top intake/exhaust? Side? Bottom?
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# ? May 22, 2020 18:21 |
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Science_enthusiast posted:Howdy Guys, Unless the hardware availability situation is different in Europe, its a singularly terrible time to buy a PC as lots of things are sold out or subject to price gouging, though, based purely on my powers of prognostication, I don't expect it to continue all year. The list itself looks alright, I might consider a 1660Super over the 5600 as the latter had a rocky launch, though I'm not aware of what the situation is right now. If you wait some months to build we might have a better idea of the next generation of GPUs too.
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# ? May 22, 2020 18:24 |
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Science_enthusiast posted:Given the above I am considering this list... https://techbuyersguru.com/1000-gamingproductivity-pc-build Motherboard is not a good choice, move up to this one at least. (The one they list has no heatsinks on the VRM, which IMO is only acceptable for office / internet PCs.) PSU: Thermaltake isn't my fave PSU maker for a number of reasons. And the one that gets linked with the german flag is a bequiet Pure Power, which also isn't the best choice. (Bequiet's more expensive PSUs are good, but that one has some cost-cutting that isn't great. Their Straight Power ones are great and reasonably priced in germany, as bequiet is german.) Given current prices in germany, I'd take this EVGA G3 followed by this Seasonic. Both of those are great and will be usable for a decade, so you can carry them forward with upgrades. sean10mm posted:Specific question about the Fractal Define R5: If your PC is under a desk and removing a top panel isn't an issue, top exhaust is a decent option. Negative pressure is effective in a case like that that can draw in air from all directions. If it's not under a desk then opening the top panels makes the case louder and presents the opportunity to spill a drink or something directly into your PC. In that case I might go with the bottom mount, as intake. That works well, as long as you clean the bottom dust filter fairly often. But not if you have thick carpet, which will restrict air because the feet sink in and the bottom will be too close to the carpet. So if it's both not under a desk *and* you have thick carpet, I'd put it on the front. A second fan on the front is the least effective spot but has zero drawbacks.
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# ? May 22, 2020 19:09 |
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I built a budget system a while back and it has served well enough since I mostly play older games as I wait for sales. That said, it may be time to make some upgrades. I think getting to 16 GB RAM is most urgent, but are there any other obvious upgrade paths? Hoping to spend less than $300 to get another year or two out of this. I don't need 60fps max settings gaming. Just playable. Thanks! CPU: Intel Pentium G4560 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($59.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: ASRock H270M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($43.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB Video Card ($157.69 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($270.58 @ Amazon)
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# ? May 22, 2020 19:41 |
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Alright so a while back I asked for gaming laptop recommendations in the sister thread to this. I was all set to pick up the new msi stealth model. Unfortunately life happened and the money I had set aside had to be put towards a root canal/tooth extraction/gum infection triple wammy. After some thinking I decided gently caress it if I'm gonna drop money on a good laptop why not just go all in on a pc? I asked for some help over on pcpartspicker and this is what I got: Build Number 1 currently priced at $1421.60 due to certain pieces being out of stock CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor Motherboard: Asus TUF B45-Pro Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 X 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Gaming OC Video Card Case: Metallic Gear Neo Air ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Antec NeoECO Gold ZEN 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit Case Fan: Arctic P12 PWM PST CO 56.3 CFM 120.00 mm Fan Build Number 2 currently priced at $1271.85 due to certain pieces being out of stock CPU: Intel Core i5-10600KF 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Scythe Ninja 5 43.03 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus Prime Z490-P ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 X 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Super 8 GB VENTUS GP OC Video Card Case: Cougar MX330-G Air ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit As I mentioned in the laptop thread I'm wanting to run Risk of Rain 2, Deep Rock Galactic, and Grim Dawn. Recently Noita and Embr have caught my eye. Are either of these builds able to run these? I'm pretty sure yes but I wanna double check to be sure. Which of these is "better?" Like I know each will have pros/cons but is either a preferable thing to start buying towards? Would it be better to wait for the listed parts to be back in stock or just grab replacement parts? And if so could I have suggestions? This case caught my eye while trying to figure out a replacement for the other two. Would it work or would it cause issues? Sticking with a budget of $1600 and am flexible on price but not much.
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# ? May 22, 2020 19:44 |
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I take it there's little point for gaming and general desktop use in getting a PCIe 4 drive over a 3?
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:05 |
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Klyith posted:A side-panel fan for fresh air intake is amazingly good for GPU temps. It also is extremely annoying: you can't remove the side panel without a wire that has to be disconnected, and a hole right next to the GPU fans is very noisy. If you're ok with that it's the #1 most effective spot. This is good to hear. I have a Corsair 400R case that permits mounting a side fan right over the GPU but was worried about creating turbulence since that might interfere with front to back flow. If that's not an issue, I'm totally mounting a fan there. Does it still help if it's a blower card (reference RX 5700)? As another poster said: thanks to you and all the other goons helping out in this forum. It's really nice of you and very useful! I have a new machine under this desk and it was put together with y'all's help.
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:05 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I take it there's little point for gaming and general desktop use in getting a PCIe 4 drive over a 3? For the moment. We don't know whether it'll matter when the next generation of console ports starts coming out.
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:09 |
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Klyith posted:A side-panel fan for fresh air intake is amazingly good for GPU temps. It also is extremely annoying: you can't remove the side panel without a wire that has to be disconnected, and a hole right next to the GPU fans is very noisy. If you're ok with that it's the #1 most effective spot. Annoyingly it sounds like front panel is my best option even though it's the worst: 1) I need this to be fairly quiet, so a hole right next to the GPU is a no-go. 2) It's not under a desk so noise + spill risk rule that out. 3) Front 1/2 is going to be on a rug most likely, so a bottom intake is a ~maybe~ depending on how high the feet keep it off the surface.
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:10 |
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Geburan posted:I built a budget system a while back and it has served well enough since I mostly play older games as I wait for sales. That said, it may be time to make some upgrades. I think getting to 16 GB RAM is most urgent, but are there any other obvious upgrade paths? Hoping to spend less than $300 to get another year or two out of this. I don't need 60fps max settings gaming. Just playable. What games are you trying to play?
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:19 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:What games are you trying to play? Recently, working through my Steam backlog of Assassins Creed, HBS Battletech, Division 2, occasional Warframe, etc. Most games run okayish, though Shadow of the Tom Raider had some desync during cinematics. Total Warhammer takes a while to load levels, but I may just need to try it on my small SSD. I can only fit one or two games on there.
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:28 |
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v1ld posted:This is good to hear. I have a Corsair 400R case that permits mounting a side fan right over the GPU but was worried about creating turbulence since that might interfere with front to back flow. If that's not an issue, I'm totally mounting a fan there. All air movement inside a case is turbulent. Illustrations with smooth airflow lines that go nicely front to back are just that: illustrations. Air never moves like that in a case. (This is why cables are really not an issue for airflow.) What matters is restrictions within ~1/2" of the fan that block air movement. The thing that can happen is dead air pockets around a component. Typically that's the GPU when a PSU shroud is close to the bottom of the GPU and there's not a fan from the front or side pushing air into that space. It can also be a problem with VRM heatsinks and water cooling. With a blower GPU it's not as big a deal since a blower will never create a hot air pocket around it. All the hot air goes out the back. Still nice for it to get a source of cool air pointed right at it, you get additional cooling on the back side of the PCB which on GPUs is not trivial. Fans on side panels are such a PITA though. sean10mm posted:Annoyingly it sounds like front panel is my best option even though it's the worst: Then you can just do what I do with my Antec P182 (which has far worse ventilation and only front intake): open the door when playing games.
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# ? May 22, 2020 20:43 |
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sean10mm posted:Specific question about the Fractal Define R5: I picked up the same brand case. My computer is going in a lil desk cubby, so only the front is gonna have unrestricted flow. I'm hoping I can put a platform u see it so I can get 1inch clearance for the bottom fan. It's gonna look sick as hell tho
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:13 |
Is there some secret to using m-flash on the tomahawk max? It will not find the bios file. Formated as FAT32 and extracted ofcourse. /e tomahawk non max was all I could find on the site until I looked via google... Submarine Sandpaper fucked around with this message at 21:27 on May 22, 2020 |
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:17 |
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Klyith posted:Do you still have the HDD cages installed? If you don't have HDDs you can remove both of those, or at least one if you have old drives. That's half the problem with the front fans, those cages are a poor design that are too close to the fans. I'm going to pull all the cages and only use an m.2 ssd for storage. It's going to be empty as gently caress in there lol.
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:26 |
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Geburan posted:Recently, working through my Steam backlog of Assassins Creed, HBS Battletech, Division 2, occasional Warframe, etc. Most games run okayish, though Shadow of the Tom Raider had some desync during cinematics. Total Warhammer takes a while to load levels, but I may just need to try it on my small SSD. I can only fit one or two games on there. Right now I'd be looking at a Ryzen 5 3600 from Amazon that should ship in a couple days from what it says currently and either a Gigabyte Aorus M or ASRock Steel Legend from Newegg. There's no good drop-in replacement for your current motherboard, so you'll want to go over to the AM4 platform.
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:41 |
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What is your monitor specs (resolution and frequency in Hz)? None of those games are graphically intensive or demand a lot of CPU horsepower. Do you intend to play graphically intensive games at all? In fact, your system is totally overkill for the titles you listed. Are you the kind of guy that wants to build a system and not touch it for 5 years and still play games? Impossible to give recommendations without more info. We could build you a substantially cheaper computer. As for AMD vs Intel system, if you aren't an experienced DIY guy and aren't getting a shop to go assemble it for you, go with intel. AMD issues with DIY builds while not common, do occur with more regularity than intel even with Zen 2 (3000 series CPUs).
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:50 |
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MikeC posted:As for AMD vs Intel system, if you aren't an experienced DIY guy and aren't getting a shop to go assemble it for you, go with intel. AMD issues with DIY builds while not common, do occur with more regularity than intel even with Zen 2 (3000 series CPUs). This just seems entirely untrue and there is literally zero difference in the actual building process from AMD to Intel. It's a computer.
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:54 |
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Thom P. Tiers posted:This just seems entirely untrue and there is literally zero difference in the actual building process from AMD to Intel. It's a computer. I am still seeing failure to POST on new builds a lot more on Zen2 than I ever have on an Intel platform. Not just here but other tech forums as well or people wanting help. I vividly remember 6 months ago when I was super active in this thread we were trying to trouble shoot an issues for goons with not POSTing and memory speed issues. It continues to this day. 6 months ago, Intel parts were stupid expensive. 10th gen is here, reviews are good and prices are reasonable. Barring an outbreak of major issues on the new platform, for pure gaming I would probably recommend Intel unless you are saving every last possible buck.
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# ? May 22, 2020 21:59 |
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I mean, maybe Coffee Lake is more ironed out than Zen 2 still, but now that Comet Lake is coming out Gamers Nexus called the Z490 BIOS launch "the worst they've seen since the Ryzen 1XXX launch." So, I really wouldn't default to Intel > AMD for noobs.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:01 |
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Klyith posted:All air movement inside a case is turbulent. Illustrations with smooth airflow lines that go nicely front to back are just that: illustrations. Air never moves like that in a case. (This is why cables are really not an issue for airflow.) What matters is restrictions within ~1/2" of the fan that block air movement. Thanks for that succinct summary. I'll play around this weekend and see if it moves temps in a measurable way on the card. I'm very familiar with those numbers after having done a bunch of OC with it recently.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:05 |
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MikeC posted:I am still seeing failure to POST on new builds a lot more on Zen2 than I ever have on an Intel platform. Not just here but other tech forums as well or people wanting help. I vividly remember 6 months ago when I was super active in this thread we were trying to trouble shoot an issues for goons with not POSTing and memory speed issues. It continues to this day. 6 months ago, Intel parts were stupid expensive. 10th gen is here, reviews are good and prices are reasonable. Barring an outbreak of major issues on the new platform, for pure gaming I would probably recommend Intel unless you are saving every last possible buck. We've been building AMD platforms here nonstop for like, two years now. If you're seeing more AMD POSTing issues its just because everyone is building AMD. DOA parts are the exception to the rule but they're far from unheard of; multiply that by everyone and their mother using AMD parts and 100% of the builds that had a DOA component will be AMD systems. Troubleshooting is a bitch no matter the platform since people generally don't have the parts on hand to isolate issues.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:06 |
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MikeC posted:I am still seeing failure to POST on new builds a lot more on Zen2 than I ever have on an Intel platform. Not just here but other tech forums as well or people wanting help. I vividly remember 6 months ago when I was super active in this thread we were trying to trouble shoot an issues for goons with not POSTing and memory speed issues. It continues to this day. 6 months ago, Intel parts were stupid expensive. 10th gen is here, reviews are good and prices are reasonable. Barring an outbreak of major issues on the new platform, for pure gaming I would probably recommend Intel unless you are saving every last possible buck. Seems very anecdotal and zero reason to build Intel > AMD just because someone is new at building a computer. The process of building is literally the exact same. Now if you are pushing Intel because it's a new gen and the benchmarks/prices are great, that's a perfectly fine reason.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:06 |
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MikeC posted:What is your monitor specs (resolution and frequency in Hz)? None of those games are graphically intensive or demand a lot of CPU horsepower. Do you intend to play graphically intensive games at all? In fact, your system is totally overkill for the titles you listed. Are you the kind of guy that wants to build a system and not touch it for 5 years and still play games? Impossible to give recommendations without more info. We could build you a substantially cheaper computer. I actually don't have a monitor yet. I was gonna shop around once I had this bit locked in unless that counter productive? Playing something graphically intensive never really crossed my mind. I mean it'd be pretty cool to play something like Red Dead 2 or something similar but the primary reason for doing this was to be able to play the games I listed with a friend of mine who plays em on pc. Not touching it for 5 years, however, is absolutely my thing and yeah that'd be fantastic.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:08 |
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Klyith posted:Yeah that all looks proper, I think you need to RMA the motherboard. Suck! Swapped the motherboard, CPU debug light. Flashed 7C02v36, CPU debug light. Flashed to 7C02v35 and now it’s behaving like the last board: appears to be working but no video out. I am beginning to regret going AMD.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:11 |
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Klyith posted:With a blower GPU it's not as big a deal since a blower will never create a hot air pocket around it. All the hot air goes out the back. Still nice for it to get a source of cool air pointed right at it, you get additional cooling on the back side of the PCB which on GPUs is not trivial. Fans on side panels are such a PITA though. Just as a goof I thought about having a pipe connect the intake of a blower card I had on an old PC to the outside of the case so it would suck cold air from outside.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:13 |
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Bumper Stickup posted:I actually don't have a monitor yet. I was gonna shop around once I had this bit locked in unless that counter productive? Playing something graphically intensive never really crossed my mind. I mean it'd be pretty cool to play something like Red Dead 2 or something similar but the primary reason for doing this was to be able to play the games I listed with a friend of mine who plays em on pc. Not touching it for 5 years, however, is absolutely my thing and yeah that'd be fantastic. Either of those builds you posted would slaughter RDR2, if you'd like to play that. A monitor does affect what you'd like to build since your goal with your hardware will be to push X amount of pixels Y amount of times per second. At something like 1080p 60 hz (the standard for most monitors), you'd have an incredible amount of ample horsepower, so you could choose to get something with either a higher refresh rate or resolution. In order of price of things I saw that I'd consider above a basic monitor: -Asus VG248QG. Not great color accuracy because it's a TN panel, but this is a really cheap price for a 165 Hz monitor. -Asus MX25AQ. Better color accuracy and higher resolution, but 60 hz will make games feel less fluid and there's no form of framesync for this in case you ever drop below 60, which will create screen tearing. -Asus VG249Q. 144 hz, 1080p, IPS, pretty solid pick-up. -Nixeus EDG. Not a name-brand monitor, but a highly recommended pick-up from goons because it's hard to get a high-refresh-rate, high-rez, color-accurate monitor like this for the price. E: Here's also what I would do for the build for at least the first 3 monitors I listed: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($172.39 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock B450M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($93.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($403.98 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master MasterCase H500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.97 @ Newegg) Total: $1090.29 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-22 17:50 EDT-0400 With the Nixeus, you'll probably want to buy a 2070 Super instead, since it's the hardest to drive. A lot of these parts will probably go out of stock soon, especially that Corsair PSU that I was shocked to see available on Newegg, so make a decision about it ASAP when you read this post! The OS you can always get from SAMart demostars fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 22, 2020 |
# ? May 22, 2020 22:31 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I have a MSI X570 A-Pro, which is not a very high end X570 board, with a 2600X. I have yet to have the chipset fan even spin up when I have been tracking in HWiNFO64. Granted, I'm doing just some gaming in not particularly demanding titles as well as web browsing, but I think it's just gonna kick in at really high demand levels where your other fans will be blowing away too. Thanks, that's good to know. I wonder if a 3900x will push the chipset harder, but worst case I disable the fan and aftermarket a heat sink or something on there I guess.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:31 |
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If anyone's looking for best memory performance with Ryzen, I think I got it: MSI MEG ACE X570 G.Skill 3600mhz cas 16 (4 x 8gb) https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb...&quicklink=true Running at 3800mhz, 1:1, settings per DRAM Calculator fast configuration: Here's how it compares - Standard (3600mhz cas 16): Read 47315 Write 30933 Copy 47293 Latency 70.4 Full overclock: Read 56232 Write 30381 Copy 55855 Latency 64.3
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:34 |
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I'm currently on an old win 7 system(3570k) with a ton amount of software and data I've got on it - around 7 tb across 5 drives. But lately I've been seriously bottlenecked by the old CPU, especially playing M&B2. I've been putting off building a new PC because of this, just the thought of migrating everything over fills me with dread. Could I possibly upgrade without a new clean install? I read it's possible to upgrade to windows 10, and then simply plug in a new Mobo/cpu and let windows take care of everything. How likely is this to succeed? Does architecture matter? Ie going from intel yo amd or sticking with Intel.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:56 |
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Bumper Stickup posted:I actually don't have a monitor yet. I was gonna shop around once I had this bit locked in unless that counter productive? Playing something graphically intensive never really crossed my mind. I mean it'd be pretty cool to play something like Red Dead 2 or something similar but the primary reason for doing this was to be able to play the games I listed with a friend of mine who plays em on pc. Not touching it for 5 years, however, is absolutely my thing and yeah that'd be fantastic. GPU requirements and Monitor resolution and target frames per second are linked. The higher your resolution on your monitor and the more frames you want, the better your GPU will need to be for AAA titles like Red Dead 2. So yes, you want to figure out what your monitor is first if graphically intensive games are in the future. For example, the 5700XT is an overwhelmingly good card for 1080p (overkill unless you want 120+ FPS), a very capable card at 1440p, and a terrible recommendation for 2160p (4k). So lets assume you will have a 1440p monitor and want a 5 year system that will play games at some reasonable level of performance, then the specs you posted will be adequate (most likely). I would consider moving the 2060 Super found on the 2nd build into a 5700xt for better price to performance or a 2070 Super for better performance and maybe a bit more longevity since DLSS 2.0 is a thing for Nvidia. The only thing I would maybe think about is getting an 8 core CPU like a 3700X from AMD or a 10700k from Intel. New consoles will come with 8 core CPUs and with parallel game development on big name titles, 6 core CPUs *might* suffer issues simular to 4 core CPUs are experiencing right now in the latest AAA titles. But 8 core CPUs are much pricier in general. No one has a for sure answer on this so you can't be wrong either way atm. If you don't care about AAA games we can build you a much cheaper system. Thom P. Tiers posted:Seems very anecdotal and zero reason to build Intel > AMD just because someone is new at building a computer. The process of building is literally the exact same. It is anecodtal, just like how people hate AMD GPUs because of anecdotal bad drivers but it also feels like AMD are the ones being poo poo on. In any case, I don't advocate pushing anything, I just offer options and my opinion. I own a 3600X paired with a 5700XT so its not like I am some fanboy. But once the new boards come out and we get a sense for performance, the intel 10th gen stuff deserves a hard look. The 10400 for example is a better chip than the 3600 in pure gaming work loads and is comparable in price. Still a poo poo intel cooler though.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:56 |
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MikeC posted:I am still seeing failure to POST on new builds a lot more on Zen2 than I ever have on an Intel platform. Not just here but other tech forums as well or people wanting help. I vividly remember 6 months ago when I was super active in this thread we were trying to trouble shoot an issues for goons with not POSTing and memory speed issues. It continues to this day. I've been practically living in the thread during the pandemic, and between when you stopped paying attention and yesterday we haven't had problems. Two guys at once is an unfortunate coincidence. Memory speed issues, yeah, those happen. Ryzens do that. Most of the people who have problems are the ones who don't post their builds before buying and get off-QVL memory (or got corsair memory with different version numbers). If you've seen a general increase on other forums in people having post failure, consider that a ton of people have gone and built new PCs because they're bored at home or got a bonus check from the gov't. More people building = more people with problems, simple as that. As for tipping the general thread sample builds to Intel, I would very much want to see reviews of the low-end Z490s. 10600 vs 3600 may be a more even fight, but mobo price has also generally been a lot higher for Intel builds as well.
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# ? May 22, 2020 22:59 |
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https://twitter.com/cursedPC/status/1263939615905497088
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# ? May 22, 2020 23:12 |
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So I had been thinking of doing a small form factor PC for portability reasons, but then I got thinking about how I’d still need to pack a monitor and all that. Which got me thinking of something else- how feasible would it be to slice a bunch of holes for cables and vent fans in a pelican case and make an all-in-one type thing where the monitor is integrated into the case and folds up?
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# ? May 22, 2020 23:26 |
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question on the software side of things: is there a way to disable the "Do you want to allow this program to make changes to your computer??" popup for specific programs? Because even when I have the boxes checked for "run this program as administrator," Paint Tool SAI gives me this message every single time. Steam does this too whenever I install a new game, which is annoying. I know you can turn them off entirely, but that's a little bit too reckless for me. Just an option to say "yes, indefinitely trust this program to not gently caress poo poo up, please" would be nice.
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# ? May 22, 2020 23:26 |
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Klyith posted:or got corsair memory with different version numbers Wait this is a thing? gently caress me. I have CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16 v4.32, not v4.31. If this is my problem wouldn't I expect a DIMM debug, at least? ElehemEare fucked around with this message at 00:10 on May 23, 2020 |
# ? May 23, 2020 00:07 |
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ElehemEare posted:Wait this is a thing? gently caress me. I have CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16 v4.32, not v4.31. If this is my problem wouldn't I expect a DIMM debug, at least? It's a thing, but that's not your problem. Any stick of DDR4 should work in a ryzen system. Ram that's not on the QVL may not work at it's rated, printed-on-the-box speed. So you might have trouble doing the simple method of turning on high speed ram, which is pushing the XMP button and having it just work at 3200. Instead you might have to fiddle with manual speed and timing numbers. But until you turn on XMP, or manually set those higher speeds, ram runs at the default 2133 speed. That's the official JDEC spec for DDR4. So having ram that can't run full speed won't stop the machine from booting.
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# ? May 23, 2020 00:31 |
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# ? Apr 18, 2024 09:48 |
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Thanks! I think I'll go with that Nixeus you mentioned and grab the 2070 super. And thanks to everyone else who's helped out. First time building a pc for games instead of just buying a 250 dollar laptop from bestbuy and calling it a day so I'm kinda excited for it.
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# ? May 23, 2020 00:37 |