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Gamesguy posted:I'm currently on an old win 7 system(3570k) with a ton amount of software and data I've got on it - around 7 tb across 5 drives. But lately I've been seriously bottlenecked by the old CPU, especially playing M&B2. So to start with, I recommend doing a new install. Rip off that band aid because you'll find you don't need everything you have. It will be a pain to reinstall but if you keep your old system running you can easily go grab config files and make sure you didn't miss anything. That all said, you can absolutely upgrade your old machine from Windows 7 to Windows 10 and keep your stuff (mostly everything will probably be compatible, the installer will tell you if something won't work on 10). After that changing the disks over or imaging the old disk to a new one and putting it in a new system will work 99% of the time.
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May 23, 2020 00:40
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demostars posted:Right now I'd be looking at a Ryzen 5 3600 from Amazon that should ship in a couple days from what it says currently and either a Gigabyte Aorus M or ASRock Steel Legend from Newegg. There's no good drop-in replacement for your current motherboard, so you'll want to go over to the AM4 platform. I’d rather avoid a mobo swap if I can. I know Intel isn’t currently in fashion for budget gaming, but I was hoping it was an old enough system that there were cheap upgrades available. I may just stick with RAM and storage for now while I budget for a full replacement.
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May 23, 2020 00:46
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Geburan posted:I’d rather avoid a mobo swap if I can. I know Intel isn’t currently in fashion for budget gaming, but I was hoping it was an old enough system that there were cheap upgrades available. I may just stick with RAM and storage for now while I budget for a full replacement. Ahh, I forgot to include RAM in that post because even the cheapest 2x8 kit of DDR4-3200 would have broken budget. Some RAM in this build will help you out a bit, but the 2c/4t processor is really dated at this point and is probably your biggest bottleneck in titles like the Division 2 and Shadow of the Tomb Raider. You could get another kit of what you have or some Aegis sticks to save $10, since I wouldn't care much about mixing and matching SKUs when you're only running DDR4-2133 lol. You could alternately get a faster kit of 2x8 GB and just run it at JEDEC speeds since that's all your mobo supports, and then pull the sticks out when you build a new computer. A 1 TB Crucial MX500 would be a good SSD to get now and carry over, too. But, yeah, Intel processors always sell for way too much on eBay. You could post a buy thread on SAMart and ask around for a reasonably priced i7-6700 or 7700, which would be the best processors to put in that board.
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May 23, 2020 01:04
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Geburan posted:I’d rather avoid a mobo swap if I can. I know Intel isn’t currently in fashion for budget gaming, but I was hoping it was an old enough system that there were cheap upgrades available. I may just stick with RAM and storage for now while I budget for a full replacement. $100 for a used 6600 is an upgrade over what you've got, but those 4 core CPUs with no hyperthreading are starting to become a let-down in some current games. It buys you some time though. edit: demostars posted:You could post a buy thread on SAMart and ask around for a reasonably priced i7-6700 or 7700, which would be the best processors to put in that board. Klyith fucked around with this message at 01:12 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 01:08
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ElehemEare posted:Wait this is a thing? gently caress me. I have CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16 v4.32, not v4.31. If this is my problem wouldn't I expect a DIMM debug, at least? Hello, welcome to the recent experience I had when helping a friend build their PC, lol: teagone posted:Friend of mine got his PC all built, but he's having issues with getting the RAM to run at 3200MHz. Specs are Ryzen 5 3600, MSI Pro-VDH MAX mainboard, 2x16GB QVL listed Corsair RAM kit. With the XMP profile enabled in BIOS, the speed stays locked at 2133MHz. With the XMP profile enabled and manually setting the DRAM frequency to 3200 (everything else on auto), the board spits out a Memory Overclocking Fail error, sending him back into the BIOS. I had him try using the boards "Memory Try It!" CAS 16 3200MHz timing instead of XMP, but gave the same fail error. Also tried increasing DRAM voltage to 1.4, and still nothing. teagone posted:Confirmed, the RAM my friend received is version 4.32, not 4.31... ver 4.32 is not listed on the Pro-VDH MAX's QVL. That's unfortunate. Super annoying that the different versions of RAM share the same exact part number, and that you can't choose which version you get when ordering. teagone posted:Was able to post and boot into Windows no problem using these settings: So, unable to get the PC to boot with the RAM at CAS 16 3200, but CAS 14 3000 works no problem. Ryzen is weird. I suspect my Plex server (Ryzen 3 2200G/MSI B450M Mortar) trying to run 4.32 RAM sticks with 4.31 RAM sticks in a 4x8GB config is what was causing instability running the RAM past 2933MHz. I opened a ticket with Corsair to see if they can swap my 4.32 modules with 4.31 sticks, but haven't heard back yet. teagone fucked around with this message at 01:18 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 01:16
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Klyith posted:Used 6700s and 7700s are stupid expensive, because everyone with a 6600 wants to get one to avoid the 4-core bottleneck. I've seen generous goons heavily undercut eBay for some items and even a decent amount give away something like a motherboard they can't be bothered to sell. It's not something that you can bet on, but I don't think it'd be impossible to find a goon who would sell you a 6700 for the same price as a 6600 just because another goon helped them out before and they'd like to pay-it-forward.
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May 23, 2020 01:18
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teagone posted:Hello, welcome to the recent experience I had when helping a friend build their PC, lol: Zen1 (of which the 2200g is a member) has a lovely memory controller, I'm surprised its even hitting those speeds.
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May 23, 2020 02:08
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sean10mm posted:Just as a goof I thought about having a pipe connect the intake of a blower card I had on an old PC to the outside of the case so it would suck cold air from outside.
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May 23, 2020 02:09
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Can I get a sanity check on this parts list? Just making sure I’m not doing anything extremely stupid. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB PLATINUM 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($139.99 @ Best Buy) Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB FTW3 ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($753.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Best Buy) Monitor: Acer XV272U Pbmiiprzx 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($409.19 @ Amazon) Total: $2138.10 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-22 21:24 EDT-0400
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May 23, 2020 02:24
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Klyith posted:It's a thing, but that's not your problem. This has me a bit worried. The QVL for my motherboard+processor: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_x570-i-aorus-pro-wifi_matisse_191231.pdf The RAM I have, which is sold as Ryzen compatible from Corsair: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK32GX4M2Z3600C18 I am really hoping once I get to put everything together I can avoid the pain of manually setting my RAM timings. Mistikman fucked around with this message at 02:42 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 02:39
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vivat virtute posted:Can I get a sanity check on this parts list? Just making sure I’m not doing anything extremely stupid. I'd only change a couple things for better price/performance: -Substitute the Nixeus monitor I recommended on the last page instead of the Acer -Get a 2070 Super instead of a 2080 Super, since it's about +$250 for that model for a small boost above the other (a 2080ti, for as expensive as it is, justifies its existence more than the Super) -Make sure you buy some sort of storage if you're not just reusing drives from your last build! PCPartPicker Part List There's some other things you could change, like the CPU cooler, but the H100i Platinum has a good warranty and might satisfy you aesthetically. If you don't care about looks or liquid cooling, a be quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 or Noctua DH-15 would be good air coolers to get. 8 cores and 32 GB of RAM are also luxuries, but if you have the cash and want to spend it, you really can't go wrong with going big, so long as the RAM says it can run at its high speeds on the motherboard QVL. E: Well, the PSU was in stock a second ago, but now it looks like it isn't reloading the page 
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May 23, 2020 02:46
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Mistikman posted:This has me a bit worried. The QVL for my motherboard+processor: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_x570-i-aorus-pro-wifi_matisse_191231.pdf Since you got the "for AMD Ryzen" version, I think you'll be fine. This isn't a universal problem with them -- if everyone who bought corsair memory was having that happen you'd have heard about it. IIRC everyone in the thread that's had problems with it didn't get the AMD-specific one. I still think it's a lovely practice, like Corsair shouldn't submit memory for testing that they're not going to promise to keep compatibility with.
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May 23, 2020 03:48
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That's good to hear, I have the parts sitting here, but I won't be piecing the whole thing together for another month or two when I can get the case I want, so I am particularly worried that I might have 3 month old parts that I am trying to power up for the first time. I got really impatient and ordered everything as soon as I saw it available at the right price, but the case I want is backordered like crazy.
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May 23, 2020 03:58
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Mistikman posted:I am particularly worried that I might have 3 month old parts that I am trying to power up for the first time. Perhaps I am cynical because I am currently flashing the BIOS on a twelve hour old motherboard for the 13th time to see if I can get one single POST out of this 3700x before I box it and the mobo back up and exchange them for Intel analogs, but, I’d probably bench test things before you fall out of any return windows.
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May 23, 2020 04:11
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My Ryzen build experience was plugging all the parts together and everything working fine, so basically no different than Intel. The only thing that was different was the weird delay when I powered everything on the first time.
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May 23, 2020 04:19
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Mistikman posted:That's good to hear, I have the parts sitting here, but I won't be piecing the whole thing together for another month or two when I can get the case I want, so I am particularly worried that I might have 3 month old parts that I am trying to power up for the first time. Highly suggest doing a tabletop assembly like ElehemEare's excellent example to make sure your stuff works: return exchange to the store is infinitely faster than warranty service. TOOT BOOT posted:My Ryzen build experience was plugging all the parts together and everything working fine, so basically no different than Intel. The only thing that was different was the weird delay when I powered everything on the first time. In the last ten to fifteen years I've had like one component (some ram in 2010) that was busted on arrival. IMHO all this stuff is normally quite reliable and Intel vs AMD has made zero difference on that front for a long time. poo poo happens and some people are gonna get a DOA item, whichever stuff is the most popular at the time gets the most visibility even if the failure rate is identical.
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May 23, 2020 05:09
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Same here, it's been a decade or so since I have had a legitimately bad component, and I have probably built 8-10 full computers in that time. I will do a build without the case though, and I will probably like it so much more than my current computer that I'll just be rocking the naked computer for the next couple months until the case arrives.
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May 23, 2020 05:17
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SL the Pyro posted:Everything was replaced exactly as I left it, including the GPU when I reinserted it. On the bright side, this gave me the opportunity to test the old PSU on the new Mobo. The PSU does still work, though the Mobo still isn't making it past CPU-POST, so that's one more thing ruled out. Double-checking the Mobo and CPU has revealed no damage to either, and I don't have other RAM sticks to test with unless it supports DDR3 without me knowing, so I think the only option I have left is to try updating the BIOS firmware (if I can even do that if it can't even POST, since it won't even start and attempt to POST if the CPU is removed). SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 08:41 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 08:36
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Important news for this thread: the 3900X has just had its RRP slashed, in an attempt to ruin Intel's party further.. Microcenter has it for $390.. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:12 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 09:09
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Some Goon posted:Zen1 (of which the 2200g is a member) has a lovely memory controller, I'm surprised its even hitting those speeds. It's able to handle 2x8GB sticks at 3200 MHz no problem—I have 2 QVL listed ver 4.31 Corsair DIMMS in the PC atm. I only started seeing issues when I added another 2x8GB kit, but said issues were either likely being caused by the memory controller not being able to handle 4 sticks all that well/motherboard daisy chaining the RAM, or I'm now also assuming it's maybe because I was pairing mismatched versions of the same part number (stupid Corsair inventory practices  ).I'm just curious if getting another set of 4.31 DIMMS would solve the issue of not being able to post when all 4 sticks are at 2933+ MHz, so hoping Corsair gets back to me with an advance RMA option.
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May 23, 2020 18:14
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Hm, it seems I lied when I said I didn't swap cords between my two PSUs. The new PSU did not come with an 8-pin + 6-pin PCI-e cable for my bigass GeForce 2070 SUPER, so I'm reusing the one from the old PSU. Is this alright to do? Both PSUs are 850W Gold, both accept the cable, and there have been no visible issues from running it on the new PSU/Mobo (other than POST not proceeding past CPU, but that was a problem well before I put the GPU in).
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May 23, 2020 18:28
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SL the Pyro posted:Hm, it seems I lied when I said I didn't swap cords between my two PSUs. The new PSU did not come with an 8-pin + 6-pin PCI-e cable for my bigass GeForce 2070 SUPER, so I'm reusing the one from the old PSU. Is this alright to do? Both PSUs are 850W Gold, both accept the cable, and there have been no visible issues from running it on the new PSU/Mobo (other than POST not proceeding past CPU, but that was a problem well before I put the GPU in). The answer is always no. Always use the cables provided by the PSU. However it is unlikely the source of your problem since nothing has changed from your original post as far as I can tell. Your debug light is red? You said you didn't buy QVL Ram from what I gathered? I know it made it past the DRAM check but that is my number 2 suspect right now behind a DoA CPU.
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May 23, 2020 18:36
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MikeC posted:The answer is always no. Always use the cables provided by the PSU. However it is unlikely the source of your problem since nothing has changed from your original post as far as I can tell. Your debug light is red? Bah, I hope just an 8-pin will work then. I confess to not knowing what the 6-pin on the GPU does. The one thing I have yet to try is a BIOS Firmware update, which I have been asking questions about to the ASUS people. I suppose I will repost them here to increase my chances of having answers when I wake up:
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May 23, 2020 18:45
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SL the Pyro posted:Bah, I hope just an 8-pin will work then. I confess to not knowing what the 6-pin on the GPU does. I have never heard of a PSU 500w or above not include an 8+6 PCIE cable. Like never. You might have an 8+8 where the 8 is split into a 6+2. I dunno. It is unlikely to be your BIOS but it is not impossible. The x570 platform was built with Ryzen 3000 desktop as its primary out of the box CPU series and it should work out of the box. If you do want to update your BIOS, I believe your model supports BIOS flashback via USB stick. Read the instructions *carefully* and do EXACTLY what they tell you to do if you want to go down that route. You will not see anything on the screen when a system fails its POST. Keyboard and Mouse not required It is unlikely that a Flash update goes through the POST process since you can do it without a CPU installed. Do me a favour and post a picture of your setup that is well lit. Also find the BIOS battery, remove it for 30s or so, reinstall it and try again after reseating the video card.
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May 23, 2020 19:01
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Bah, there was indeed a 6+2 thing going on. Fixing that now and hoping I don't need that other PCI-e cable for something else (I shouldn't). Does the board need to be powered or no when removing the battery to reset CMOS? e: Also, a question I haven't seen answered: will a board try to boot (successfully or no) if a CPU isn't installed? I keep seeing in guides that a POST can detect if a CPU is in or not, but... my board doesn't even start if the CPU is out, even though it's clearly powered (the fancy LEDs light up). e2:  GPU was going into the top PCI-e slot, but maybe it shouldn't since that fan is there. Do I block the fan or the M.2 slot? SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 19:16
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SL the Pyro posted:Bah, there was indeed a 6+2 thing going on. Fixing that now and hoping I don't need that other PCI-e cable for something else (I shouldn't). Off. Always off. Never touch anything with the power on. Never unplug or reseat anything with the power on. I even unplug the PSU and turn that off and leave it for a bit for the capacitors to empty before I do anything. Check your manual, shouldn't the RAM be in slots A2 and B2? You have them in A1 and B1. I have never tried to boot without a CPU in socket but my understanding is that it will simply not POST and give you a no CPU error. This is how you know if you didn't seat your CPU properly.
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May 23, 2020 19:38
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MikeC posted:Off. Always off. Never touch anything with the power on. Never unplug or reseat anything with the power on. I even unplug the PSU and turn that off and leave it for a bit for the capacitors to empty before I do anything. I thought it was weird too, but the manual says those slots are A1 and B1. Yeah, this Mobo doesn't attempt to boot at all if there's no CPU installed. Not sure if that's normal for this type of Mobo or if my Mobo is DOA (which is why I want to try the BIOS update - worst case scenario is I end up replacing it anyway). Troubleshooting which of the Mobo, CPU, RAM or PSU is hosed is always the worst. Unrelated: turns out the GPU doesn't completely cover that Mobo fan if put into the top PCI-e slot, but it's pretty low profile to it. Do I risk covering that, or cover the M.2 slot? Each M.2 slot is going to have either a GPU or a CPU Cooler hanging over it, so I'm not sure which to use.
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May 23, 2020 19:58
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SL the Pyro posted:Cleared CMOS, reinserted GPU and started Mobo. Still hung on CPU light. https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/TUF_GAMING_X570-PLUS/E15235_TUF_GAMING_X570-PLUS_UM_WEB.pdf This says A2 and B2. Other than that everything looks fine. Covering the mobo fan isn't an issue. Use the top slot.
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May 23, 2020 20:03
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Klyith posted:With a blower GPU it's not as big a deal since a blower will never create a hot air pocket around it. All the hot air goes out the back. Still nice for it to get a source of cool air pointed right at it, you get additional cooling on the back side of the PCB which on GPUs is not trivial. Fans on side panels are such a PITA though. Adding a side fan pointed at the front of the GPU is making a difference in temps, dropping it by 5-10C which is significant for this OCed blower. I wish I could tie the fan curve to GPU Junction temp but am using PCIe 1 temp as a stand in. PCIe 1 temp does track with TJunction but somewhat slowly in both directions, rising and falling, so I've had to set an aggressive curve. But it does work and makes a difference, which is good.
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May 23, 2020 20:06
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A friend linked this thread, I've read the OP information but little else in the thread. Background: I have never built a computer, I am not the most technologically savvy person but I have upgraded my tower's memory, graphics card and replaced the Power Supply before. I have currently backed up everything on an external hard drive that's been formatted and I would like to keep my information if possible. The external hard drive is new and was upgraded upon this computer starting to show signs of imminent death. Sometimes it refuses to boot due to what appears to be the motherboard failing, overheating and other various issues that pop up from time to time. This machine is just a hair over 8 years old so I am looking to build something over upgrading. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? I would like this to be a tower primarily for gaming, listening to podcasts and watching videos while gaming and doing some illustration on, with importance in that order. What's your budget? I have a relatively new keyboard and mouse that I like. My current monitor is old as poo poo and has a bunch of broken pixels but still works, so I'm hesitant to replace it. I would like to have a cap at $850 USD but will go a hair above 900 if needed. I'm definitely using stimulus money for this and the rest of it went to replacing essentials. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Current old monitor is 1680x1050, the refresh rate is showing at just a hair under 60Hz. The cord needed is DVI. I would like the graphics to be able to run smoothly, but 'as fast as possible' and 'as pretty as possible' are not high priorities. I would like to play Monster Hunter with my friends, essentially! I would LOVE to have a double-monitor setup like I did many years ago but I don't think that's in the cards anytime soon. Another problem I have had over the years is overheating. I live in the desert so during the summer the computer tends to run hot and I don't want to fry another computer like I did in high school trying to make it work through that. A good cooling system is a must, it can be as simple as some well placed fans or a complex network of whatever just as long as it's in my price range. I know this might be a big ask. I am also not interested in overclocking if I can help it. I spent a fair amount of time on Newegg and PCpartpicker yesterday in order to try to figure out what was good and affordable, but the only willing contact I had is my ornery old uncle who basically told me to use the money to buy something already built. While I'm extremely frustrated and am tempted to do that the whole point of this exercise was to build my own computer for the first time. I can get it to 'compatible' but evidently there are smaller issues with what I am picking out that it's not detecting. When I asked about these issues for the most part the jargon went over my head. So I hate to be an idiot but I am trying to learn and it feels like a bit of a wall. May I please get some assistance? Here are my current specs thanks to Speccy Operating System Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1 CPU Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz 38 °C Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology RAM 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24) Motherboard ASUSTeK Computer INC. P8H61-M LX2 (LGA1155) 64 °C Graphics SyncMaster (1680x1050@59Hz) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030 (Gigabyte) 31 °C Storage 931GB Seagate ST1000DX002-2DV162 ATA Device (SATA ) 34 °C Optical Drives ATAPI iHAS124 B ATA Device Audio NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM) I got a new video card last November in an attempt to upgrade this machine to play Monster Hunter, which barely worked. If I can use the graphic's card I bought relatively recently that would be great, but I understand if it's already obsolete. Here is what I ended up looking at at the end of yesterday from PCpartpicker, but I'm not confident that it will work or suit my needs. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($157.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 Blue 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($72.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GT 1030 2 GB Low Profile Video Card ($79.49 @ B&H) Case: Cooler Master MasterCase H500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing) Total: $820.17 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-23 15:27 EDT-0400 I am going in completely new and am most worried about things not working together properly (frying, bottlenecks, all that fun stuff) and getting an OS on the new machine, since I've never installed one before. Any help is appreciated, even if it's just goons echoing my uncle's advice.
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May 23, 2020 20:37
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Hey! Thanks to everybody's help here building my PC, my wife's cousin wants help building a new PC. Really all it needs to be able to do is be a decent office PC with HDMI output. Just for checking email, web browsing, and watching streaming stuff. No GPU necessary, and I'll probably buy them a USB WiFi adapter. Any suggestions? Everything I search for seems to be more geared towards people building PCs for gaming. For reference, she has a PC from 2008 so anything will probably be a huge upgrade.
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May 23, 2020 20:54
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I just bought a new case and some fans to move my current system out of my old busted case. The new case has little risers to mount the motherboard on. Do these take the place of stand-offs or do I still need to use the stand-offs?
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May 23, 2020 21:10
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Chaosfeather posted:I am going in completely new and am most worried about things not working together properly (frying, bottlenecks, all that fun stuff) and getting an OS on the new machine, since I've never installed one before. Any help is appreciated, even if it's just goons echoing my uncle's advice. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($157.75 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.98 @ Amazon) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GT 1030 2 GB Low Profile Video Card ($79.49 @ B&H) Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR600 (w/o ODD) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg) Total: $683.14 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-23 16:10 EDT-0400 Tweaked list. Added a decent budget airflow case. Dropped the cooler since the stock AMD cooler works just fine if only a bit loud. Added in a cheap 500mb SSD drive to boot off of and to put some games on. Turned the power supply into a 450 W which is cheaper. You don't need 650w at all. Dropped the windows 10. Buy windows from goons on goonmart. It is safe and they work at a fraction of the cost. (20 bucks or so). https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3768345 I got mine from this guy. Prompt delivery no funny business. I don't know how to address your Video card situation. I don't know of any cards that even have a DVI port anymore. but the 1030 as you say can't run much of anything anymore.
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May 23, 2020 21:14
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MikeC posted:Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) It looks like the Tomahawk MAX is out of stock at Best Buy and everywhere else; probably would substitute it with a Gigabyte Aorus M or MSI Pro VDH MAX while it's gone. Also, while I've seen EVGA include DVI connectors on upper-end Turing cards for modern options, you can always get an HDMI to DVI cable for cards that lack a port for it. E: If you wanted to get a card now and not wait for Ampere/RDNA2 cards to release, a 1660 Super would fit into your budget and would run pretty much any game you want at 1680×1050. demostars fucked around with this message at 21:52 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 21:32
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dkj posted:I just bought a new case and some fans to move my current system out of my old busted case. Pics help, but if they’re positioned in the same place as stand-offs would be, then yes. Just ensure they’re properly centered so the motherboard fits onto them. I found one of these on a Fractal Design case a while back and puzzled over it for a second, then accepted it, and haven’t had any problems since.
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May 23, 2020 21:33
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Chaosfeather posted:I got a new video card last November in an attempt to upgrade this machine to play Monster Hunter, which barely worked. If I can use the graphic's card I bought relatively recently that would be great, but I understand if it's already obsolete. Here is what I ended up looking at at the end of yesterday from PCpartpicker, but I'm not confident that it will work or suit my needs. The 1030 video card is gonna be a problem for Monster Hunter, it just isn't a gaming card. It can handle games that make large efforts to be playable on any machine possible (think WoW, Overwatch, Fortnite, stuff that's going for max possible audience). But for games, even console ports, that target more visuals it doesn't cut it. With your budget, something like this is decent and under your budget: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3300X 3.8 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($119.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 Blue 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card ($229.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($78.28 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($83.98 @ Newegg) Total: $784.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-23 16:34 EDT-0400 Room to improve includes a better power supply, but poo poo is completely out of stock. It's better to look mid-week than on the weekends. You could also go up to a 1 TB SSD. I was thinking you could use your existing HDD for secondary storage. edit: Re: DVI monitor, you can get both HDMI to DVI cables and DisplayPort to DVI adapters. The DisplayPort adapters are a tiny bit funky -- they're passive and have something that tells the video card to switch to outputting a DVI signal, but your PC may not recognize the monitor and need to have native resolution set manually. Not a big deal and will work fine for a 1680x1050 monitor. As long as you don't need VGA you can get nmonitors to work. i must compose posted:Hey! Thanks to everybody's help here building my PC, my wife's cousin wants help building a new PC. Really all it needs to be able to do is be a decent office PC with HDMI output. Just for checking email, web browsing, and watching streaming stuff. No GPU necessary, and I'll probably buy them a USB WiFi adapter. Any suggestions? Everything I search for seems to be more geared towards people building PCs for gaming. For reference, she has a PC from 2008 so anything will probably be a huge upgrade. A little Intel NUC mini-PC can do that job just fine, another goon upthread did that for his parents. All you buy along with the intel box is memory (laptop-type SO-DIMMS) and storage. With a SSD they're a snappy little office & internet machine. Klyith fucked around with this message at 21:46 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 21:39
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Hasturtium posted:Pics help, but if they’re positioned in the same place as stand-offs would be, then yes. Just ensure they’re properly centered so the motherboard fits onto them. I found one of these on a Fractal Design case a while back and puzzled over it for a second, then accepted it, and haven’t had any problems since. Hasturtium posted:Pics help, but if they’re positioned in the same place as stand-offs would be, then yes. Just ensure they’re properly centered so the motherboard fits onto them. I found one of these on a Fractal Design case a while back and puzzled over it for a second, then accepted it, and haven’t had any problems since. Sorry, I meant to post a photo.  I put it together yesterday and had no video output and the stupid new case has no speaker wire so I didn’t know if it was even posting. Took it out and set it up and it’s posting now so I figured I was wrong about not using the stand offs.
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May 23, 2020 21:42
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dkj posted:Sorry, I meant to post a photo. It looks like it doesn't want standoffs, the riser tabs look to be the correct height to line up with the backplate. But most of these things come with instruction manuals that tell you how to install the motherboard.
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May 23, 2020 21:51
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demostars posted:It looks like the Tomahawk MAX is out of stock at Best Buy and everywhere else; probably would substitute it with a Gigabyte Aorus M or MSI Pro VDH MAX while it's gone. Klyith posted:The 1030 video card is gonna be a problem for Monster Hunter, it just isn't a gaming card. It can handle games that make large efforts to be playable on any machine possible (think WoW, Overwatch, Fortnite, stuff that's going for max possible audience). But for games, even console ports, that target more visuals it doesn't cut it. MikeC posted:PCPartPicker Part List Ideally I'd like to start buying parts sooner rather than later, as I don't know when this machine will finally die. Is it better to buy everything at once or piecemeal once I figure out which parts I am going to buy? Any other general newbie advice, like where to get the special cooling adhesive that I need for one of the parts (I think it's for the CPU?)
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May 23, 2020 22:01
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Klyith posted:It looks like it doesn't want standoffs, the riser tabs look to be the correct height to line up with the backplate. Yeah the instructions said “Install motherboard in proper place.” And then moved on.
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May 23, 2020 22:05
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