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MrOnBicycle posted:Sounds like it could be compound haze that you need to polish out. Yeah that must be it, I wonder if it's related to ultimate compound supposedly starting rougher and breaking down into finer polish as you continue to polish it. I may not have hit the same area enough to break it down when I was hitting the quarter panels. I ordered pads last week from autogeek so I didn't have to buy them from amazon, they list everything as same day shipping but it actually shipped out a day later, to arrive in a week so I still don't have them. Trying to get all my polishing done before the summer heat kicks in, but it looks like the pads will arrive just in time for nice and hot weather, wonderful.
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May 19, 2020 17:34
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MrOnBicycle posted:If you don't care about polishing the car before, you can just clean the car properly and apply the ceramic coating. The main cost of applying the coatings is the hours it takes to polish. There are also "light versions" like Carpro Cquartz Lite that won't last as long, but also aren't something that will need polishing to get off. The AliExpress stuff is super cheap and works fine. I personally won't be using it as I don't think the name brands are that much more expensive and I know what I'm getting. Any reasons to go with one brand name over the other? As far as prep goes, I was going to clay it before. Paint was professionally corrected earlier this year and I’m not going to correct it myself.
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May 19, 2020 20:59
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I would advise against claying if you already had it professionally corrected earlier this year. There's way too much of a chance to introduce marring and undoing the effort of the correction. Use something like Carpro Rest to really cut the road film and maybe do an iron decon, but I would skip claying unless the paint seems rough. If you had it professionally corrected, is there already a sealant on it already? I can't imagine a place would do that and not put some sort of sealant on the car. If so, that could be a significant barrier in applying a ceramic coating properly.
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May 19, 2020 21:10
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Residency Evil posted:Any reasons to go with one brand name over the other? As above. I don't think you need claying if the car was professionally corrected earlier this year and you've washed it regularly since. When it comes to brand names I'm sticking with what independant testers have experience as well as ease of use etc. Can't really go wrong with Carpro, Gtechnic, Kamikaze etc. I chose Carpro since I can easily get hold of all their products without high shipping costs, it's easy to apply and hard to gently caress up and I know that their coating is one of the best while not being insanely expensive.
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May 20, 2020 08:09
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MetaJew posted:Application of the M27 is very similar, a few dabs on a microfibre applicator pad, wipe it on, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe off. It has some sort of self-leveling component and doesn't really haze over, so removing any excess sealant isn't a big deal. The bottle says it cures over 24 hours and you can apply it in direct sunlight. I should get the M27 by the end of the week so I'm fairly excited to see it in action. FilthyImp fucked around with this message at 08:49 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 08:43
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bull3964 posted:I would advise against claying if you already had it professionally corrected earlier this year. There's way too much of a chance to introduce marring and undoing the effort of the correction. Use something like Carpro Rest to really cut the road film and maybe do an iron decon, but I would skip claying unless the paint seems rough. Thank you for this. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure about the sealant, although I imagine there might be. Honestly the paint looks fantastic after a simple wash. I was thinking of getting the ceramic coating to make it even easier, but it sounds like it might be worth holding off.
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May 20, 2020 15:37
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With the disclaimer that I haven't used it yet, I bought this ceramic coating and it must have been because this thread recommended it. The only problem I had is I bought it, waited almost a year to use it, and it had turned into an unusable jelly. As soon as I finish polishing my wife's car I'll be trying it out and posting results.
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May 20, 2020 15:58
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FilthyImp posted:This was forever ago but thanks. With all the Coronatime I decided to clay bar and clear our cars. I have a Chevy with black sparkle effect paint and I would live to get rid of the swirls before applying, but I don't think I trust myself to throw a pad and compound on my orbital sander. Car's 8 years old so it could probably do with some paint correction though. I hope it holds up. I applied it to both my fiance's white 2016 TTS and my metallic black 2009 MS3. Unfortunately between a too small two car garage, some junk, a motorcycle trailer and my motorcycle I can't fit both cars in the garage so my MS3 gets parked outside. Despite having a few weeks of dust and dirt the paint still beaded water in the rain..I need to do a hand wash and see how it holds up. It seems like it has done mostly a good job after I applied it to the windshield, too so that's really neat. I bought some Carpro eraser to prep her windshield for when the Gtechniq G1/g2 windshield coatings arrives. Hopefully that goes well.
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May 20, 2020 20:13
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MomJeans420 posted:With the disclaimer that I haven't used it yet, I bought this ceramic coating and it must have been because this thread recommended it. The only problem I had is I bought it, waited almost a year to use it, and it had turned into an unusable jelly.
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May 21, 2020 15:16
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I'll have to remember that, I just checked my order history and it's been 8 months since I ordered my replacement bottle of McKees... The problem with needing to get a black car perfect before you apply it.
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May 21, 2020 16:51
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MrOnBicycle posted:Some paint surface prep should remove it easily. I think it might be UK/Euro only, but I have used Upol system 20 degreaser to prep for putting on coatings etc. Works well and is very well regarded in the UK detailing community. Looks like it's UK only, unfortunately. Any other recommendations?
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May 21, 2020 17:18
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What kind of abrasive do I want to clean up my headlight housings? Looks like the PO tried to do it and gave up part way or something. I have Meguiar's 105 compound, Menzerna 2500 and 3500 compounds, and Abralon 1000 and 2000 sanding pads. Is any of that appropriate? Planning to shoot it with some 2k urethane clear after. Seems like 1000 grit is an ok start from some googling 
taqueso fucked around with this message at 22:48 on May 21, 2020 |
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May 21, 2020 21:59
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taqueso posted:Looks like the PO tried to do it and gave up part way or something. That's almost definitely just from sun damage. It's going to fade the top portion first. I've seen that before.
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May 21, 2020 23:14
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I used this: And a lake white pad to get a similar amount of hazing on my wife's xc90 lenses to this: 
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May 21, 2020 23:17
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Got half a bottle of rainx brand PlastX from family and gave it a go. It worked somewhat but it has very little bite and I couldn't get the job done. It still has haze in the worst areas but it is a surprisingly big improvement already. I can tell the difference between streetlights and my headlights now. The photo actually looks worse than real life, I was worried if I would be able to capture the remaining haze in a picture but no problems there. I'm trying to decide if I want to: a) sand it to like 400/600 and then clearcoat, sand, more clear; which should leave me with a crystal clear finish if I understand the painting stuff I've read. My worry on this option is that I'm wrong and I might have to sand off the clearcoat. or b) get more plastic polish and keep on that track. My worries are that if I get the surface fully polished it won't have any tooth for the clear to stick to; and if I don't clearcoat, it will yellow quickly. taqueso fucked around with this message at 17:26 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 17:23
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I'd use something a lot higher than 600 grit.
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May 22, 2020 17:39
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My thinking on 400/600 is based on car paint people saying paint sticks to those grits really well and fills in the sanding marks but I am very much a paint newb. e: when I google trying to find an example of someone putting clear on headlights over a low grit sand, I can only find people sanding to like 2000/2500 so I'm probably totally wrong taqueso fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 17:49
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I did both methods. In my thread I had someone more experienced point out that at 2000+ grit the clear won't have a good surface to bite into so I redid them with 600 and it turned out looking the same while likely lasting much longer. Can't find pictures of the ones I redid twice but I did these after using 600 as the final step and some cheap clear coat and they turned out well.  
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May 22, 2020 18:18
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Got ya, I figured the 2000+ grit would be for polishing, thinking that 600 would leave marks too big to polish out, but if you're putting clear over them, then 600 is probably sufficient.
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May 22, 2020 19:31
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Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner. Meguiar's has the All Purpose Cleaner mentioned in the OP, but they also have this Ultimate Interior Detailer, and a few other sprays. I hate the "greasy" crap that cheap detailers use inside my car. I really just want to get it clean and reasonably protected. What's the best option here? Also, would love a recommendation for a leather cleaner that won't darken gray seats. Have had that issue with some of the hardware store wipes.
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May 22, 2020 20:08
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Cool, thanks for the confidence boost for 600 grit. I should be able to do it tonight.
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May 22, 2020 20:12
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner. I got meguiars natural shine protectant as a non greasy armorall replacement and I like it. Does what it says. It looks clean not greasy shiny. Use any all purpose cleaner before it for the clean part. For leather I have meguiars cleaner and meguiars conditioner and they are meh. I switched to leather stuff I had for boots and I like that more. Can't remember what I used off the top of my head. Probably saphir taqueso fucked around with this message at 20:19 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 20:16
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner. I have access to all of Zymol's product. I use their vinyl and leather cleaners and conditioners and it's one of their products that I really recommend. Especially the leather stuff. Smells like bananas and I've never had a leather problem after using it on at least a dozen different cars over the years. A lot of their other products are "meh," but the leather stuff is legit.
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May 22, 2020 20:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner. I use the one you linked and I'm really happy with it. Zero greasy residue, smells nice.
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May 22, 2020 21:30
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Tried sanding tonight, my plan was to try 320 or 220 and go up. tbh I was a little scared of damaging the housings by going ham. But I'm going to get something coarser and start again tomorrow, I didn't clear the worst of the oxidized layer yet. I used some norton stick-and-sand discs from menards stuck to a spent abralon pad and they worked well. Made a great creamy lather.
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May 23, 2020 05:44
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Unrelated to headlights, anyone have opinions on high temperature paint for calipers?
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May 23, 2020 18:33
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What's recommended to clean between body panels? Basically every panel in my car is full of black dirt that when it rains spread over the panels, not sure if there is a better tool than just detailing spray and shoving a microfiber cloth in. I've included a pic to show a good example https://imgur.com/x9jvO4B
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May 23, 2020 19:10
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Detailing brushes and clay
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May 23, 2020 19:24
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Bape Culture posted:Detailing brushes and clay And/or Simple Green and q-tips.
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May 23, 2020 20:10
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Jesus christ I had forgotten what a pig washing, polishing and putting on a ceramic coating is. Spent 12 hours today doing it, with an 1½ break total for dinner and lunch. This is a new car as well, so minimal scratched (but already more stone chips than I'd like on a 4 month old car...). My favorite thing with cermaic coatings is putting them on black trim as it looks amazing. I love clean cars, but I loving hate getting there. Hopefully the coating will last and make it quicker to wash it.
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May 23, 2020 20:43
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I mean, I don't know how any coating can make a car quicker to wash. You just, uh, wash it. It will make it quicker to dry though!
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May 23, 2020 21:57
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bull3964 posted:I mean, I don't know how any coating can make a car quicker to wash. You just, uh, wash it. The dream is that the dirt doesn't stick and you can rinse it off.
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May 23, 2020 22:51
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DoubleT2172 posted:What's recommended to clean between body panels? Basically every panel in my car is full of black dirt that when it rains spread over the panels, not sure if there is a better tool than just detailing spray and shoving a microfiber cloth in. I've included a pic to show a good example A pressure washer really helps with those nooks and crannies.
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May 23, 2020 23:10
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StormDrain posted:The dream is that the dirt doesn't stick and you can rinse it off. Anyone that tells you that's the case with ceramic coating is lying. It certainly does rinse easier than ever before and it does get cleaner after that rinse, but it's not CLEAN. There's still road film. It's not teflon.
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May 23, 2020 23:11
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bull3964 posted:Anyone that tells you that's the case with ceramic coating is lying. Yeah I didn't think that, but it is the dream.
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May 23, 2020 23:20
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I started using cheap dollar store/HF/amazon brushes and drill brush attachments and just wow. Cleaning a filthy work truck interior today (my kei bucket truck) dollar tree orange degreaser, handheld brushes and a drill attachment just wow and for a few dollars to save hours of elbow grease.
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May 24, 2020 05:44
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bull3964 posted:I mean, I don't know how any coating can make a car quicker to wash. You just, uh, wash it. Well it makes it quicker if there is less dirt that builds up. Might not need as much/as long to pre-rinse / use pre-contact wash products etc. My car is already well maintained so when it comes to the contact wash stage, the mitt and the water hardly dirties. I count drying as parts of the whole car wash, so that's where I'll save time as well if I remember how the last coating I had on another car was.
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May 24, 2020 05:54
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My mom backed her CRV into a parked trailer and punched a 2" x 1/8" hole through the plastic panel on the bottom of the hatch. Is there a plasticizer / flexibility-enhancer type filler for epoxy or bondo that I should use when closing up the hole? Or does it not matter?
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May 25, 2020 15:35
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taqueso posted:My mom backed her CRV into a parked trailer and punched a 2" x 1/8" hole through the plastic panel on the bottom of the hatch. Is there a plasticizer / flexibility-enhancer type filler for epoxy or bondo that I should use when closing up the hole? Or does it not matter? Depending on what's left, you could remove the bumper, put the piece back in and plastic weld it in place from the back side, then go from there. There's no filler that I know of that will adhere well enough and still flex.
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May 25, 2020 15:40
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Here's what it looks like, i think the only positive is that the actual hole isn't very tall
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May 25, 2020 15:47
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