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H110Hawk posted:To be clear you should 100% do this and post about it. I am dyeing to see the outcome. FTFY
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May 24, 2020 17:10
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Flipperwaldt posted:
How wide is that gap? That might be a job for a hori hori.
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May 24, 2020 17:11
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Flipperwaldt posted:
Fire.
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May 24, 2020 17:15
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Deadite posted:Does vinyl go on like wall paper? I guess I’m just more comfortable with paint but if I can do paper or vinyl myself then I am open to all of it It's probably what your moon decal is printed on.
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May 24, 2020 17:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Clean it, sand it, primer, then paint. Sanding scuffs it, giving the primer more surface area to adhere to; primer then lets the paint stick. What grit do you recommend?
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May 24, 2020 17:38
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tactlessbastard posted:What grit do you recommend? I'm not an expert, but my impression is that it doesn't really matter all that much. I'd guess anything between 60 and 400 would probably be fine. You're not really aggressively sanding it, you're just wiping across it a couple of times to get some scratches on the metal.
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May 24, 2020 17:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm not an expert, but my impression is that it doesn't really matter all that much. I'd guess anything between 60 and 400 would probably be fine. You're not really aggressively sanding it, you're just wiping across it a couple of times to get some scratches on the metal. Thanks!
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May 24, 2020 17:44
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kid sinister posted:How wide is that gap? That might be a job for a hori hori.  I keep blunting my tools on the cement or whatever of the foundation. Some sort of saw/knife combo might work. I might have some poo poo steak knives somewhere. KillHour posted:Fire.
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May 24, 2020 17:46
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Flipperwaldt posted:Yeah. The fence next to it isn't my property sadly. Get a canvas tarp, soak it in water, drape it on the fence, then fire?
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May 24, 2020 18:07
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I'd go with a gardening trowel, myself.
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May 24, 2020 18:28
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tactlessbastard posted:Thanks!
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May 24, 2020 18:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm not an expert, but my impression is that it doesn't really matter all that much. I'd guess anything between 60 and 400 would probably be fine. You're not really aggressively sanding it, you're just wiping across it a couple of times to get some scratches on the metal. OP wants sanding sponges. 220 is kind of Goldilocks for “scratching up a surface for adhesion while removing dried-on roller hairs”
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May 24, 2020 18:51
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We want to also paint the 60s as hell all wood cabinets where we are moving. So this is generally the process that I have found and y’all can tell me I am going to screw up super bad: 1. Disassemble doors and hardware and have a system to know what goes where for reassembly 2. Clean with a degreased / TSP really well, let dry 3. Sand with somewhere around 150 to 180, not going ham but taking the shiny finish off the surfaces, vacuum and tack cloth clean 4. Apply a good primer for kitchens (INSL-X prime lock?) with a foam roller, let totally dry and lightly sand with somewhere around 220 grit to smooth 4b. Apply second coat of primer if needed 5. First coat of paint with foam roller, let dry totally and lightly sand with 220ish grit 6. Second coat with foam roller, let totally dry 7. Reassemble Does this seem like a decent set We really hate super shiny, we got a sample of semigloss and really aren’t about that life. Would a satin be fine?
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May 25, 2020 13:44
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If you're buying somewhere that sells Insl-x I would use their Stix for cabinets. Great bonding primer. Satin is fine but get an appropriate enamel. A lot of companies have acrylic-alkyd hybrids and urethanes that are great hard finishes for cabinets.
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May 25, 2020 13:55
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Final Blog Entry posted:If you're buying somewhere that sells Insl-x I would use their Stix for cabinets. Great bonding primer. Wow, I'm glad that you mentioned the enamel aspect, nothing I saw mentioned it and I would have been super frustrated about going through that work and effort and it not lasting because it isnt an appropriate paint. If I cant find INSL-X, is there a decent secondary primer? I know that Kilz is sort of the big name brand. I am not sure the original cabinet type and I just see that Stix doesn't block tannin stains. KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 14:13 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 14:10
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Flipperwaldt posted:
They're a little pricey for what amounts to a serrated gardening shovel that you would use one time, but metal detectorists use a knife/saw kind of tool to cut and lever plugs of earth out of the ground, that can be placed back into the hole without ripping up too much of the surrounding grass. Here's a GIS'd pic of one.  I couldn't find a good short video of the process, but there are these knife-style ones, and long shovel-style ones. Jinkeez fucked around with this message at 14:15 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 14:13
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KKKLIP ART posted:Wow, I'm glad that you mentioned the enamel aspect, nothing I saw mentioned it and I would have been super frustrated about going through that work and effort and it not lasting because it isnt an appropriate paint. If I cant find INSL-X, is there a decent secondary primer? I know that Kilz is sort of the big name brand. I am not sure the original cabinet type and I just see that Stix doesn't block tannin stains. Whats on the cabinets now? Painted, stained and varnished, or what? Edit- specifically for the topcoat Ben Moore Advance or Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane are great options. Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 14:58 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 14:41
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Currently they seem to be stained and they are a bit glossy, so some sort of poly finish maybe. I think we decided to do Behr Marquee for our interior walls, and it seems like the Benjamin Moore Advanced is the way to go for cabinets. KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 15:29
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If they're stained and poly'd then a shellac primer would be a good option if you don't mind messing with something alcohol based. It'll bite to the poly well and it's as good of a stain blocker as you're going to get. If you'd rather use a water based then get a good bonding primer like the Stix, XIM UMA, or Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond. Tannins aren't going to be a concern but if you sand too aggressively you could sand all the way through the poly and could get some bleed through of the wood stain. Just rough it up, don't try so sand it off. You could even do your TSP clean with a fine Scotch Brite pad (I think it's the grey ones) and that would probably rough the surface enough in the process that you wouldn't need to sand after.
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May 25, 2020 17:28
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Flipperwaldt posted:
Yep, definitely a job for a hori hori. They're meant for digging and prying in rocks.
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May 26, 2020 19:01
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Want to hang some string lights in the back, I have a little inset patio area and I don't know how to best go about it. Can I just hammer some nails into my vinyl siding? I know I'm an idiot, but I'm also afraid of loving up my house.
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May 26, 2020 22:03
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Could you just use some command hooks? They make ones for outdoor use
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May 26, 2020 22:06
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Quick search found these hooks for vinyl siding https://www.amazon.com/No-Hole-Hooks-Vinyl-Siding-Hangers/dp/B00GMKKZM0
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May 26, 2020 22:18
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Much better alternatives that hadn't even crossed my mind! Thanks!
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May 26, 2020 22:21
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What terrible thing will happen if I use a needle valve marked for pneumatics for plumbing?
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May 27, 2020 15:20
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I have a ceiling fan + light fixture (Hunter, one of the generic home depot brands) and the pull chain for the fan speed seemed to have broken. So I got a replacement 3-way pull chain switch, and replaced the switch. The new one looked like this https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Commercial-Electric-3-Speed-Antique-Brass-Fan-Switch-82365/306596870 The labelling was all consistent between the old and the new - it had L, 1, 2, and 3 slots, and I put the wires back in the same slots. Anyway, the chain now works for changing the fan's speed, but I can't turn the fan off! I confirmed with ridiculously long waiting times, it's definitely not ever reaching an off state. It just goes between the 3 speeds but never off. Could it be an issue with the circuitry that the switch connects to? This is a relatively recent problem and I'm not sure what else would have changed other than something like a capacitor blowing out.
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May 27, 2020 20:31
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According to the HD website's answered questions section that switch won't turn off some models of ceiling fans.
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May 27, 2020 22:15
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Nevets posted:According to the HD website's answered questions section that switch won't turn off some models of ceiling fans.  At least this probably means it is the switch and I just need to find the right one.
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May 27, 2020 23:12
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DreadLlama posted:What terrible thing will happen if I use a needle valve marked for pneumatics for plumbing? Needle valves aren't used for plumbing anymore, or at least they shouldn't be. Awful things.
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May 28, 2020 00:11
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kid sinister posted:Needle valves aren't used for plumbing anymore, or at least they shouldn't be. Awful things. What's wrong with needle valves???
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May 28, 2020 00:17
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shovelbum posted:What's wrong with needle valves??? They leak from everywhere. They don't seal when you need them to. Stop valves are superior in every way.
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May 28, 2020 00:19
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Are stop valves good for regulating flow rate and maintaining system pressure? You need to maintain back pressure on a reverse osmosis system or it works poorly.
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May 28, 2020 00:45
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Just moved into a nice new 3 br rental in northern Virginia. When we were setting up my sons room we noticed there is NO vent anywhere for heat and AC. It’s clearly a bedroom with a window and closet (and it’s bigger than the other bedroom that does have a vent for HVAC). It has carpet. What are the chances someone covered the vent with the carpet? The owner was saying that room is always hot and couldn’t figure out why. I don’t know if he’s the one that replaced the carpet. It’s on the second floor of a 2-story house and I can’t follow ducts you see where it should be-I can only guess based on the other rooms. Edit: house was built in 1982 and this bedroom doesn’t appear to be an add-on (it’s on the second floor). VA code from what I can see says that a bedroom must have a way to heat it, which this currently doesn’t. nwin posted:Just moved into a nice new 3 br rental in northern Virginia. Phew, found it. The magnet wasn’t much help and I was really close to buying a FLIR camera over amazon to use with my iPhone, but I started just banging around the baseboard and all of a sudden my hand sunk into the floor. It felt slightly cooler than the rest of the carpet. I pulled back the carpet a bit and yup, there it is. They cut the padding beneath the carpet but didn’t do the carpet. I told my landlord and he was surprised. He never used the bedroom for anything other than storage but he said he noticed it ran a bit hotter than the other one and couldn’t figure out why. We’re putting a vent in it now because it was just the hole. Jesus gently caress man. nwin fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 03:19
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nwin posted:Just moved into a nice new 3 br rental in northern Virginia. 50/50/50. No wait those are odds. Either way, it's equally likely they did do that, didn't do that, or did something far worse. It totals 150%. If you own or can rent a Flir and turn on your AC on a hot day it should show up really clearly. Make sure to look under the bed, dressers, etc.
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May 28, 2020 03:25
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What's a good dehumidifier for an 800sqft basement with stone block walls from the 1920s? We bought this house a few months ago and the PO contracted with a scam waterproofing company who installed an exhaust fan (among other useless things) but obviously that's done nothing to help the overall humidity in the basement.
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May 28, 2020 03:44
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nwin posted:Just moved into a nice new 3 br rental in northern Virginia. Any way you can guess at the routing by looking at the supply and return registers on the second floor and first, including soffits?
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May 28, 2020 03:49
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Run a strong magnet around the floor near the baseboards and see if you get a bite?
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May 28, 2020 03:56
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Khizan posted:Run a strong magnet around the floor near the baseboards and see if you get a bite? That’s what I was thinking of doing. I have a temperature gun, but I don’t think I’d see a big difference in temp versus using a FLIR. Looking at the other rooms adjacent and below, I have a decent idea of where the vent should be so I’ll give the magnet a go. My only concern would be hitting nails and stuff to give me false positives. However, as long as the metal damper is actually installed, I should hopefully notice a difference for a large area versus the small area a nail would put out.
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May 28, 2020 09:52
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One of the lights in an inside hallway went out and I went to replace it. When I took off the cover, I saw this:  From what I've learned while Googling, it's an integrated LED fixture. They're supposed to last 10 years, but this one lasted less than 4 (it was installed by the previous owners in Sept 2016 or a little later, based on a date on the fixture). No receipt, so I can't go to whoever installed it. When I turn on the light switch, some of the diodes do light up faintly. It looks pretty likely that I'll have to get a professional in to replace the whole drat fixture based on what I've found so far. However, I can't even find any basic troubleshooting info on this, or information on how one would replace it or the capacitor. Does anyone have anything that could help? Should I resign myself to paying an electrician ~ $100 to change a light bulb?
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May 28, 2020 13:48
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Looks like it's this guy: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-Light-Globe-Brushed-Nickel-Integrated-LED-Flush-Mount-4W4207-SN/303336163 Just buy a new one or find a fixture you like better and swap them out. Swapping a fixture is only marginally more difficult than changing a lightbulb. Just cut the power first and get a little no contact voltage detector to be sure.
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May 28, 2020 13:56
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