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Jaded Burnout posted:I don't know much about sprayguns, but I get on fine with this compressor for infrequent use: That's probably not nearly as big an issue where you have 240v for everything than the U.S. where 120v drops off more dramatically.
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May 25, 2020 22:04
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trufflefoo posted:Thanks, that looks about what I was after. Will pick one up. Specifically I grabbed this cheap accessory kit[/ur], [url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LG0W3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1]this 15m hose, and this 30m hose. The 15m hose required some adapters because it's BSP instead of quick-release "euro" adapter, but that wasn't so bad. Much more annoying was finding the right adapters for the nailguns I bought because I got them from the US (price inc. international shipping was still much cheaper than buying here). That saga is probably somewhere back in this very thread.
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May 25, 2020 22:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:Specifically I grabbed this cheap accessory kit, this 15m hose, and this 30m hose. I think given I mostly want to use this for painting in my garage (and my driveway is right outside), I think the 15m hose is all I'll need. I'll grab that and the accessory kit. Looks like an approriate spraygun, if anyone does have opinions (1.3mm + 18.mm LVLP).
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May 26, 2020 20:17
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trufflefoo posted:I think given I mostly want to use this for painting in my garage (and my driveway is right outside), I think the 15m hose is all I'll need. I'll grab that and the accessory kit. If you can find yourself a hose that already has quick release euro connectors that'll save you a bit of time, like on the 30m one I mentioned. I went with the 15m without them regardless but would probably not if I could avoid it. I effectively made it so by buying adapters and leaving them permanently screwed on to the hose. I'd also suggest picking up a short coiled hose like the one in the accessories pack, because the larger hoses are a bit unwieldy and heavy, so you don't want to have them connected direct to your tools if possible, just because it makes holding and controlling them a bit harder. Not required, but a bit of quality of life.
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May 26, 2020 21:06
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Anyone ever clean out the inner guts (gear box and such) of hammer drills and such? I inherited like a thousand bucks of DeWalt cordless and corded stuff + accessories and a box of batteries to go with today, but it's seen some wear and I need to strip it down to clean them up. I assume it's lithium or moly grease jammed up in these? Any idea what factory lubricant they install?
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May 27, 2020 02:43
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Synnr posted:Anyone ever clean out the inner guts (gear box and such) of hammer drills and such? I inherited like a thousand bucks of DeWalt cordless and corded stuff + accessories and a box of batteries to go with today, but it's seen some wear and I need to strip it down to clean them up. Try not to listen to his jokes or politics https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvgS71fU12Mbx-w18Chu_Sg9v6loipEFO
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May 27, 2020 02:50
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FogHelmut posted:Try not to listen to his jokes or politics Keeping your dick in a vice is very sound advice.
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May 27, 2020 05:12
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CarForumPoster posted:If I was just starting out and owned a home+fixed my car I'd def get this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-10CX/304238212 Sticker shock on these kits puts a lot of people off but honestly you'd be set for years with that lot, the only thing that looks kinda pointless is the blower.
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May 27, 2020 10:25
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cakesmith handyman posted:Sticker shock on these kits puts a lot of people off but honestly you'd be set for years with that lot, the only thing that looks kinda pointless is the blower. I dunno I use a bigger blower all the time for just cleaning dust and poo poo out of my garage and off stuff. Depending on how powerful it is it could be pretty useful. The only thing about that kit is swapping 2 batteries between 10 tools will get old fast, even though it’s not like you are generally using them all at the same time. So budget in one or two more batteries.
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May 27, 2020 14:00
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That's a very good deal, drat. I use my battery blower all the time to get grass clippings off concrete and clean out my shop, but yeah it's not gonna match a real leaf blower if you need to sweep and pile lots of leaves in the fall.
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May 27, 2020 14:10
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It's so weird they all put angle grinders in kits like that now. Maybe they aren't high volume sellers so they have stock to throw in.
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May 27, 2020 15:02
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I'm looking at getting into the Milwaukee M12 system for some smaller lighter use tools and home depot has a good deal going on now where you get a free tool: https://www.homedepot.com/collection/Tools/Milwaukee-M12-Free-Tool-Promotional-Offers/Family-313690140?omsid=309029862 I kinda wish Amazon had it because I have a large gift card for Amazon. HD also has a good deal on a Dewalt kit going too: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-7-Tool-with-ToughSystem-DCKTS781D2M1/312585400
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May 27, 2020 15:21
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coathat posted:It's so weird they all put angle grinders in kits like that now. Maybe they aren't high volume sellers so they have stock to throw in.
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May 27, 2020 15:32
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wandler20 posted:I'm looking at getting into the Milwaukee M12 system for some smaller lighter use tools and home depot has a good deal going on now where you get a free tool: https://www.homedepot.com/collection/Tools/Milwaukee-M12-Free-Tool-Promotional-Offers/Family-313690140?omsid=309029862 I kinda wish Amazon had it because I have a large gift card for Amazon. Their 12v stuff is extremely capable and often more powerful than the cheap consumer brands 18/20v stuff. Really happy with my 12v brushed Hex Screwdriver. It's lightweight and you won't run into fatigue using it to put together flat pack furniture for 6 hours, isn't going to strip your threads, but strong enough to drill holes or drive 3" screws into wood if needed. My 18v Fuel driver is too heavy to do that stuff all day, and it will blow things out even on the lowest clutch setting if you're not using any finesse.
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May 27, 2020 16:36
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FogHelmut posted:Their 12v stuff is extremely capable and often more powerful than the cheap consumer brands 18/20v stuff. Really happy with my 12v brushed Hex Screwdriver. It's lightweight and you won't run into fatigue using it to put together flat pack furniture for 6 hours, isn't going to strip your threads, but strong enough to drill holes or drive 3" screws into wood if needed. My 18v Fuel driver is too heavy to do that stuff all day, and it will blow things out even on the lowest clutch setting if you're not using any finesse. I pulled the trigger on the fuel hammer/impact drill combo with the free multi-tool and the fuel hackzall with the free ratchet tool (3 batteries total and 2 chargers). Like you said, it's going to be nice to use these for light jobs instead of lugging my full size Dewalt 20v tools around.
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May 27, 2020 18:11
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Just had an enlightening experience. I needed to put some anchors into a concrete slab, and the last time I did this I used a hammer drill and it took an hour and 3 ruined bits before I got halfway through the job and decided that would have to do. This time I said screw it and got a proper but nothing special SDS drill and drilling into the same slab took seconds, I might as well have been using a regular drill to go through soft pine. Screw hammer drills, a regular impact can get small tapcons in from my experience and if you need to put a real hole in concrete just get the proper tool because the performance isn't remotely close.
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May 27, 2020 20:46
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Elem7 posted:Just had an enlightening experience. I needed to put some anchors into a concrete slab, and the last time I did this I used a hammer drill and it took an hour and 3 ruined bits before I got halfway through the job and decided that would have to do. So true. I just redid my shower and all I had was my dewalt 20v drill with hammer mode and it was way more difficult to drill through the tile and I even broke one bit.
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May 27, 2020 21:19
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Are there any sturdy add-on handles that can quickly be attached to/removed from a weedeater? I'm 6'7" and we use Stihl trimmers at work that seem like they'd be perfect for someone a foot shorter. There's an older one I can sometimes use (depends on who gets to it and fucks off first) that has an angled handle, and if I move that one all the way back, it's slightly less horrible to use than the others for 8 hours. So I was thinking there might be a quick-release or wingnut attaching kinda thing out there, but the ones on Amazon are all a single piece of plastic that snap on to a handle and don't seem very durable.
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May 28, 2020 02:07
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You know that the handles are adjustable on those, right? Keep in mind that you'll also be adjusting its balance point.
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May 28, 2020 06:43
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but I’m fixing up a old Stanley Yankee 131A screwdriver and the rear screw in the handle which retains the spring is stuck. It’s a pretty old thing and I don’t want to burn the wood with too much heat. Anyone have any ideas? I can take a couple of pictures if that helps.
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May 28, 2020 11:46
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Vindolanda posted:Not sure if this is the right thread, but I’m fixing up a old Stanley Yankee 131A screwdriver and the rear screw in the handle which retains the spring is stuck. It’s a pretty old thing and I don’t want to burn the wood with too much heat. Anyone have any ideas? I can take a couple of pictures if that helps. I’ve had pretty good luck with Wd-40 or PB blaster on old tools. You could also try dropping some 3in1 oil or kroil if you have it. Or an old trick is to mix acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50:50 to create your own penetrating oil. It may take a few days to loosen up if it’s really stuck. Just keep putting a drop or two on there especially if there are any exposed threads. Wait, is this on the metal portion or wood?
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May 28, 2020 14:58
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If you are doing anything that may ever require moving stuck metal, you need Kroil.
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May 28, 2020 15:12
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Falco posted:I’ve had pretty good luck with Wd-40 or PB blaster on old tools. You could also try dropping some 3in1 oil or kroil if you have it. Or an old trick is to mix acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50:50 to create your own penetrating oil. It may take a few days to loosen up if it’s really stuck. Just keep putting a drop or two on there especially if there are any exposed threads. The screw is a large coin-slot type threaded into a metal sleeve. The wood of the handle goes around the sleeve and is held on by the lip of the screw. I'm not having much luck finding a cutaway drawing to show what I mean, but this video of a smaller version should start at the right time to show what I mean. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFAoyRLeddM&t=67s I think it probably is going to be a case of soaking it. The selector and spiral mechanism were absolutely packed with filthy grease but the rear screw seems a bit rusty and un-oiled, so it might be corroded tight.
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May 28, 2020 15:23
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FogHelmut posted:Their 12v stuff is extremely capable and often more powerful than the cheap consumer brands 18/20v stuff. Really happy with my 12v brushed Hex Screwdriver. It's lightweight and you won't run into fatigue using it to put together flat pack furniture for 6 hours, isn't going to strip your threads, but strong enough to drill holes or drive 3" screws into wood if needed. My 18v Fuel driver is too heavy to do that stuff all day, and it will blow things out even on the lowest clutch setting if you're not using any finesse. I bought into the m12 stuff several months ago and have been overall happy. If you can, get an M12 surge driver. I use that exclusively over the regular M12 impact driver, I haven't run into anything that the surge driver couldn't handle that the regular M12 impact could (and if I need anything more powerful I use my 18v impact driver anyway). The installation driver has also been handy for around the house. I've been disappointed by the M12 circular saw. It doesn't have much power and stalls very easily if the blade is pinched at all.
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May 28, 2020 16:57
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Currently don't have a bandsaw but the flexibility it has interests me. Saw this posted on CL for $275, that sounds really high for what a used 14in bandsaw should run. Worth picking up and if so what should I offer? No fence and no quick tensioner so I assume it should be a lot less than the $275 listed right? Boards are expensive where I'm at so being able to resaw 2x material sounds good, this would be way better than buying a similarly priced 10in right? 
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May 28, 2020 17:07
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I’ve been trying to buy a table saw and I’ve just been on this endless loop of “let me just get something super cheap off Craigslist” to “well what if I just spend more and get the next step up” to “well if I’m gonna spend that much I might as well just get the really good one” to “wait gently caress that I could buy a cheap truck* for that much, let me just get something super cheap off Craigslist”. Yesterday I was at the “let’s buy the expensive poo poo” stage and today I’m back to thinking about something cheap. *I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a cheap pickup just for hauling occasional stuff
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May 28, 2020 17:18
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dyne posted:I bought into the m12 stuff several months ago and have been overall happy. If you can, get an M12 surge driver. I use that exclusively over the regular M12 impact driver, I haven't run into anything that the surge driver couldn't handle that the regular M12 impact could (and if I need anything more powerful I use my 18v impact driver anyway). The installation driver has also been handy for around the house. I tried to get the Surge but it was all sold out on the free tool promotion. It looks like a nice driver so I was a bit disappointed I missed out on it. Elysium posted:*I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a cheap pickup just for hauling occasional stuff Would a small trailer possibly work? I love having a pickup but for some people a trailer can be a nice alternative and cost a fraction of the price and require little maintenance. wandler20 fucked around with this message at 17:26 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 17:24
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Elysium posted:I’ve been trying to buy a table saw and I’ve just been on this endless loop of “let me just get something super cheap off Craigslist” to “well what if I just spend more and get the next step up” to “well if I’m gonna spend that much I might as well just get the really good one” to “wait gently caress that I could buy a cheap truck* for that much, let me just get something super cheap off Craigslist”. You are speaking my language. This is how I’ve been through my whole tool buying, and I’m finally ponying up for some nicer tools. But I got by great off of a $125 craftsman table saw with a good fence. It’s tough to justify some of the crazy costs for the nicer tools especially at first. Setting up search alerts on Craigslist and OfferUp have helped me score some amazing deals. As for the truck, I can’t seem to justify the cost of the purchase and ownership when I can go snag a uhaul trailer for $20 and haul just as much or more than a small pickup.
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May 28, 2020 17:49
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Bob Mundon posted:Currently don't have a bandsaw but the flexibility it has interests me. Saw this posted on CL for $275, that sounds really high for what a used 14in bandsaw should run. Worth picking up and if so what should I offer? No fence and no quick tensioner so I assume it should be a lot less than the $275 listed right? Boards are expensive where I'm at so being able to resaw 2x material sounds good, this would be way better than buying a similarly priced 10in right? Yes that class of bandsaw is worlds ahead of the plastic 10" ones you can get from the big box stores. Depends on your market, but where I am that would be a decent price, anywhere between 200-300 is good for those units I'd say. Quick tension is a polarizing subject, but I'd say that it's not required nor a bargaining point. I feel like getting an old bandsaw like that one that actually has a fence or a usable fence is very rare. Building a point resaw fence is quite easy if that will be your main use.
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May 28, 2020 17:50
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Bob Mundon posted:Currently don't have a bandsaw but the flexibility it has interests me. Saw this posted on CL for $275, that sounds really high for what a used 14in bandsaw should run. Worth picking up and if so what should I offer? No fence and no quick tensioner so I assume it should be a lot less than the $275 listed right? Boards are expensive where I'm at so being able to resaw 2x material sounds good, this would be way better than buying a similarly priced 10in right? That says Taiwan made, which is typically pretty good quality. And it looks similar to the Grizzly, likely the same factory which used to import from Taiwan. A fence is optional with bigger bandsaws; that size, you're not buying to rip material typically. And you can clamp a straightedge and have a fence if you need to resaw. But, if you're thinking that resawing 8/4 lumber to get 2 pieces of 4/4 lumber is cheaper, no way. The opposite is true. Idk what a quick tensioner even is, my 50 year old Delta doesn't have one. This is totally in a different class from a 10", which is babby size. If the motor could rewire to 240v, so much the better to resaw. Pricewise, if it runs smoothly and the tires are in decent shape, it's a good deal for this saw, imo. If you can talk him down in price, so much the better for you, but I wouldn't die on that hill. Check out Grizzly's online catalog if you want to compare.
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May 28, 2020 17:55
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Falco posted:As for the truck, I can’t seem to justify the cost of the purchase and ownership when I can go snag a uhaul trailer for $20 and haul just as much or more than a small pickup. I've found this sort of thing is absolutely legitimate, so long as it's convenient to rent them. The same financial logic held true when I had a zipcar subscription, but there frequently wasn't one available without a day or two of advance notice.
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May 28, 2020 18:11
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Falco posted:As for the truck, I can’t seem to justify the cost of the purchase and ownership when I can go snag a uhaul trailer for $20 and haul just as much or more than a small pickup. wandler20 posted:Would a small trailer possibly work? I love having a pickup but for some people a trailer can be a nice alternative and cost a fraction of the price and require little maintenance. If I had an SUV with a hitch or something I would have no problem just renting or even buying a trailer, but paying to have a hitch installed on my 170,000 mile Civic seems... suboptimal. Straight up renting a HD/uhaul pickup is fine for a trip to the store and back, but less so when you decide to go check out a table saw on Craigslist 60 miles away at $.69 a mile extra or $10 every half hour over 90 minutes or whatever. Also not as good for failure to plan ahead and not need to run back to the store for more poo poo the next day... and the next day....
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May 28, 2020 18:23
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Elysium posted:*I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a cheap pickup just for hauling occasional stuff This obviously depends entirely on where you live, and your definition of cheap, but...good luck. Where I am, I don't think it's really possible to get a truck less than twenty years old that will pass inspection (or pass it with a very minimal amount of work,) for less than $4000. I've been looking since mine is not inspect able and not worth paying to fix, really, and good lord it's crazy. People listing "parts only" trucks with entirely rusted out frames and bodies, maybe 15 years old, for $3000. Not to say they'll get that much for them, but it does mean a truck that does run well goes for even more.
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May 28, 2020 19:37
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I lucked out on getting my truck 96 tacoma, 4cyl, 2wd, shitloads of undercarriage rust, but only 86k miles $3k Followed by replacing the transmission two months later for $2k It's been serving me well but now it's starting to get into the weird, hard to solve problems, like uh, coolant issues with no clear solution But that was a super wildly lucky prospect
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May 28, 2020 19:46
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Mr. Mambold posted:That says Taiwan made, which is typically pretty good quality. And it looks similar to the Grizzly, likely the same factory which used to import from Taiwan. A fence is optional with bigger bandsaws; that size, you're not buying to rip material typically. And you can clamp a straightedge and have a fence if you need to resaw. But, if you're thinking that resawing 8/4 lumber to get 2 pieces of 4/4 lumber is cheaper, no way. The opposite is true. Only real source for lumber I've been able to find is big box stores, so the cost for a 1x board is out of sight compared with what it would cost for 2x material and resawing in half. That plus I'm currently doing rip cuts with a circular saw and a straight edge so this would probably be an upgrade for the rough cuts. Sounds like assuming the wheels are in ok condition and the motor runs should be able to get a good deal here, cool. For a fence just planning on screwing plywood together for a 90 and then clamping to the table so if a quick tensioner isn't make or break i can definitely live with that. Comparing this to a Rikon 10in seems like it would probably work out way better for what I need for less. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 19:58
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Elysium posted:If I had an SUV with a hitch or something I would have no problem just renting or even buying a trailer, but paying to have a hitch installed on my 170,000 mile Civic seems... suboptimal. Getting a hitch installed is probably under $200 all in, and you can get a harbor freight trailer frame built up for $500 or less. Long as you're just carting around bulky stuff and not overdoing it on the weight it'll probably be OK. Unless you're doing this constantly my guess is buying another vehicle is gonna be way more expensive and you're just paying for convenience vs. actually saving any money. Nothing wrong with that of course; I'd love to have a cargo van for my work equipment, but I know it wouldn't save me any money long term.
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May 28, 2020 20:08
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powderific posted:Nothing wrong with that of course; I'd love to have a cargo van for my work equipment, but I know it wouldn't save me any money long term. Well yeah, the plan wouldn't be literally to save money on repeat rentals vs buying, it would just be nice to have something around for whenever I need it. DrBouvenstein posted:This obviously depends entirely on where you live, and your definition of cheap, but...good luck. Taking craigslist descriptions at face value (yeah I know), it looks like I could get something driveable that would pass inspection for about 2k. Over 20 years old isn't really a dealbreaker for me, nor is visual condition, cab size, power, or anything really. If it lasts for a year or two and then I sell it on or junk it that would be fine. As an aside, what's with the insane amount of completely fake ads on facebook marketplace? Like "sure I clicked on this $1500 truck ad, which is obviously a fake price for this $15,000 truck, so now I'm definitely going to call you up and get upsold $13500..." Elysium fucked around with this message at 20:25 on May 28, 2020 |
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May 28, 2020 20:22
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Elysium posted:Well yeah, the plan wouldn't be literally to save money on repeat rentals vs buying, it would just be nice to have something around for whenever I need it. I've noticed the absurd $1500 truck listings lately. And they're all $1500.
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May 28, 2020 20:34
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Bob Mundon posted:Only real source for lumber I've been able to find is big box stores, so the cost for a 1x board is out of sight compared with what it would cost for 2x material and resawing in half. That plus I'm currently doing rip cuts with a circular saw and a straight edge so this would probably be an upgrade for the rough cuts. E: That said, it looks like a fine saw for what it is, and bandsaws are great and versatile tools. Just don’t think you’re gonna save a bunch of money resawing lumber with it.
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May 28, 2020 20:41
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Yeah, the issue with resawing is that it changes the stresses in the wood, which causes it to move. Wood just isn't a perfectly stable material. The same thing happens when thicknessing boards, and is why you flip the board over every time you run it through the planer: removing material equally from both sides of the board produces much less movement than taking a big chunk off of one side. Hey, guess what resawing does. Plus resawing is pretty tricky, just from a control and precision standpoint. I'd guess that if I tried to resaw a 4" wide 1.5" thick board (a.k.a. a 2x4), after the resawing, allowing it to re-stabilize, and then re-flattening it, I'd end up with at best two 5/8"-thick boards. 1/2" thick is more likely.
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May 28, 2020 21:27
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