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I finally put the z-height extensions on my maker select. The printer says it can do 180mm vertical but once you get to about 150ish it hits some support bracket on the top and twists the x-axis and makes a racket while it keeps trying to print your thing above that. This raises it up a bit but wow is it a pain in the rear end aligning like 6 things that need 16 screws. If it's not square after all of that I'm throwing it into the delaware.
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May 24, 2020 04:57
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 05:37 |
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Rexxed posted:I finally put the z-height extensions on my maker select. The printer says it can do 180mm vertical but once you get to about 150ish it hits some support bracket on the top and twists the x-axis and makes a racket while it keeps trying to print your thing above that. This raises it up a bit but wow is it a pain in the rear end aligning like 6 things that need 16 screws. If it's not square after all of that I'm throwing it into the delaware. Same but my new Y Rods came in. Gonna add those and drop the bed to a 3 screw leveling system and try to finally get it leveled well
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May 24, 2020 05:00
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I wish the CR-10 existed when I bought the maker select. I started seeing reviews for it about a month after I got the MS. It's been a learning experience for three years now. I've had the Ender 3 for about 18 months and it's been so much better. I want a larger printer but I'm thinking about rolling my own.
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May 24, 2020 05:36
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Rexxed posted:I wish the CR-10 existed when I bought the maker select. I started seeing reviews for it about a month after I got the MS. It's been a learning experience for three years now. I've had the Ender 3 for about 18 months and it's been so much better. I want a larger printer but I'm thinking about rolling my own. I wish relative exchange rates etc. were better when I bought the E3Pro. But Australia is poo poo. Apparently the stuff I want to do is at or beyond the accuracy limits of it.
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May 24, 2020 07:12
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Any suggestions for ender 3 settings to minimise stringing with PETG? I'm using Prusaslicer, the prints are OK in general but I'm getting insane stringing with the default ender 3 config. I suspect that I might need to lower my extrusion multiplier as I notice solid layers 'bulge' out a little on vertical walls, not sure if this could make stringing worse?
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May 24, 2020 10:20
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General_Failure posted:Remember how I forgot about the brim? What’s the ambient temp of the room you’re printing in? Is it cool? As I’ve mentioned previously I’ve been using 3Dfillies filament exclusively and the only time I started having that sort of behaviour was once the weather cooled down. Never saw any warping until then. Warping has caused my prints to lift in the corners, and the nozzle can be heard to clip parts of the print. Never had one come loose, but I’m using glue stick on a mirror as my bed..
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May 24, 2020 11:23
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I use 3dfillies almost exclusively, and although I've never had bed adhesion problems with it, I have found their PLA+ tends to have quirks across the colour range. I use a lot of their transparent dark grey colour, which prints really cleanly and is very tough, as well as their light grey opaque variant, which as mentioned upthread tends seems to get brittle over time and snaps at the filament inlet on my Prusa mk3. I also love their red colour, but for whatever reason I've found that things printed with it tend to be prone to cracking under load, whereas the transparent stuff seems to be both stiffer and less brittle.
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May 24, 2020 12:23
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insta posted:What was it? It was some Filamentum stuff, not the soluble support thankfully but I'd still like to be angry about it anyway for a little longer regardless TIA
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May 24, 2020 16:59
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Well.. poo poo. I forgot to check the nozzle on my brand new hot end and started a 3 1/2 hour print with it. Only to discover a failed mess halfway through The nozzle was loose and since the nozzle seals against the heat break I had plastic oozing out from around the nozzle and all over the top of the heat block. Ended up having to tear my new hot end completely apart and use a heat gun to melt and remove the plastic that had went everywhere
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May 24, 2020 18:06
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stevewm posted:Ended up having to tear my new hot end completely apart and use a heat gun to melt and remove the plastic that had went everywhere I have no idea what you're talking about and it has certainly never happened to me (twice).
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May 24, 2020 18:51
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I got a 10 pack of cheap heater blocks the first time that happened to me. I think I have 6 left.
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May 24, 2020 19:22
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I didn't have any spare parts at hand so I ended up cleaning it. Took about an hour to get it all cleaned up. Would have been impossible without a heat gun.
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May 24, 2020 22:07
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I definitely don't have 4x DDE kits coming from TriangleLab as backups for the fleet of lovely CR10's that like to eat themselves.
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May 24, 2020 22:37
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Does any version of the cr10 actually like work
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May 24, 2020 23:59
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What’s the ambient temp of the room you’re printing in? Is it cool? spongepuppy posted:I use 3dfillies almost exclusively, and although I've never had bed adhesion problems with it, I have found their PLA+ tends to have quirks across the colour range. quote:I also love their red colour, but for whatever reason I've found that things printed with it tend to be prone to cracking under load, whereas the transparent stuff seems to be both stiffer and less brittle.
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May 25, 2020 01:49
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What are options do we have for filament in Australia? If 3DFillies aren’t great I’d happily try something else once I’ve used up my stocks. I do have a spool of that red one. Mostly I print in the grey. I have a spool or Marble, it was really stringy IIRC. I haven’t done a temp tower for any of them though so chances are I should be tweaking my settings. My ultimate desires use for 3D printing is as a prototyping/mould-making tool so functional strength isn’t going to be as big an issue for me. But still, if there’s a known top choice for filaments, great!
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May 25, 2020 02:09
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I've been using heaps of Aurarum filament lately. They're based in Melbourne (Knox). The PLA is as good as any other I've used, and I'm finding the PETG printing much better than eSun. Also if you are nearby and can do pick up, they do factory seconds (colour change ) rolls for $20, which is what I use to make all my moulds/plugs because I don't care what colour they are.
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May 25, 2020 02:28
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I've been generally pretty happy with 3dfillies - their "PLAsteel" filaments are also pretty good from a toughness perspective and print really easily. I imagine that their more vibrant/opaque colours just have relatively more colourant in them, which isn't so much a reflection of quality as just being an inherent tradeoff between aesthetic considerations vs material properties.
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May 25, 2020 10:52
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What are options do we have for filament in Australia? If 3DFillies aren’t great I’d happily try something else once I’ve used up my stocks. I do have a spool of that red one. Mostly I print in the grey. I have a spool or Marble, it was really stringy IIRC. I haven’t done a temp tower for any of them though so chances are I should be tweaking my settings. Hobbyking have Australian stock, and their PLA is pretty much my to go unless I have special requirements. It's cheap, but in my opinion better than a lot of much higher priced crap I see around. There's always Cubictech too, and I order my not-PLA there.
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May 25, 2020 11:25
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My latest favorite filament is pink hatchbox PLA, it's hard to tear myself away from printing everything in it
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May 25, 2020 17:52
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shovelbum posted:Does any version of the cr10 actually like work Sure they do. I just run mine hard and put them away wet, because I'm using them to make money and they're cheap enough to be considered consumables.
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May 25, 2020 21:22
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insta posted:Sure they do. I just run mine hard and put them away wet, because I'm using them to make money and they're cheap enough to be considered consumables. You're in the wrong thread, this one is about 3D printing
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May 25, 2020 21:33
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All these years and I never noticed we had a 3D printer thread. I'm having trouble printing things that have vertically rounded surfaces. For a simple example, if I'm trying to print a box with corners that are rounded on top, the PLA is rough and looks like a staircase, I guess is the way to put it. It would take a lot of finishing work to get them smooth like this which was posted earlier in the thread: The sides of the rounded corners are fine. Any tips? I will try and get some pictures later. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 22:39 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 22:36
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If you mean the top-facing surface is filleted like that and it's got a stairstepped look between the layers, the only way to fix it is to increase resolution (decrease layer height). PrusaSlicer has a variable layer height feature that can help optimize the layer thickness so you can get nice smooth curves without wasting a ton of time on vertical walls.
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May 25, 2020 22:39
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Sagebrush posted:If you mean the top-facing surface is filleted like that and it's got a stairstepped look between the layers, the only way to fix it is to increase resolution (decrease layer height). Slic3r also has the adaptive layer slicing but I've never toyed with it. I'll try it out. I don't have the problem when printing things that are 45 degrees or other straight lines - only on these rounded surfaces. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 23:31 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 22:41
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Is there a more moderately priced enclosed CoreXY than the Voron that can do ABS ? $3k AUD for a printer largely built from chinese parts seems like a lot.
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May 26, 2020 00:35
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Adaptive slicing was kind of a disaster on my printer. To be fair, I have a cheap, years-old printer. However, going to .2mm from .3mm layer height made a huge difference. Thinking about it makes sense. Depending on the radius , the length of a section of the arc just goes unprinted if its height is less than the layer height since, with a fixed layer height, it's not like the printer can print a fraction of a layer. It's like anti-aliasing reality. That's kind of the idea right? Just working it through in my head.
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May 26, 2020 01:00
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Unperson_47 posted:Adaptive slicing was kind of a disaster on my printer. To be fair, I have a cheap, years-old printer. Yeah that's pretty much exactly it. The majority of my printing ends up at .2mm since it's a good mix between quality and time. If I want something to be really detailed or precise I'll go down to .1mm. I only go higher if speed is the main thing. I think .28mm was what I used for a lot of the face shield headbands I made.
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May 26, 2020 01:22
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Unperson_47 posted:Slic3r also has the adaptive layer slicing but I've never toyed with it. I'll try it out. I don't have the problem when printing things that are 45 degrees or other straight lines - only on these rounded surfaces. It's good to have Slic3r, PrusaSlicer, and Cura on hand at all times. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. I use Cura's adaptive slicing sometimes. Damned if I can see a difference though. Unperson_47 posted:
First, I should point out that the curve on that case for both parts was bottom facing. Sometimes setting the shell type to "concentric" can have a positive effect. Can't speak for that case because I don't remember what settings I used, but I tend to use lower speed settings for some things where I was getting stringing / adhesion issues or cutting corners. I slow down small radius printing, and probably larger too. I just had a close look at the case. It looks like my printer is having some trouble with spurting(?) with that particular filament but besides that the curve is fine. Speaking of cases, I printed a Pi zero case which I modified, using the 3DFillies PLA+ red. Jesus H Christ I need to work on the settings. It has an elephant's foot taper like 4mm high? Is it filament, bed, or both temps too high?
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May 26, 2020 01:57
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If you have an elephant foot that's several millimeters tall you probably have overextrusion issues, so on the lower solid layers everything bulges out, and it sort of rectifies itself when you get to the infill and it can spill inwards as well as outwards.
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May 26, 2020 02:04
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General_Failure posted:It's good to have Slic3r, PrusaSlicer, and Cura on hand at all times. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. I use Cura's adaptive slicing sometimes. Damned if I can see a difference though. What PiZero case did you print? Higher bed temps combined with a high nozzle temp may not allow the PLA on bottom layers to set so they buckle or sag under the weight of the top layers or the force of the nozzle/filament being extruded. I would've thought you'd have problems with upper layers like the layers not adhering to each other or pits if that were the case, though as the top layers would get further and further from the nozzle as it collapses. What's your temps and do you have any stringing? Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 02:20 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 02:08
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Beaucoup Haram posted:Is there a more moderately priced enclosed CoreXY than the Voron that can do ABS ? You can relatively easily enclose a BLV MGN Cube. I'm still using a Zetsy, so it's not really practical for me at the moment, but it is planned, once I get a new extruder figured out. It's still probably a $1000+ (USD) build, depending on parts, etc.
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May 26, 2020 02:12
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Is the Voron actually $1900 to build? I see it cited in the $1200 range which seems reasonable for the BOM
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May 26, 2020 02:45
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Thanks to the other Ausgoons for some alternative local filament leads to check out other than 3DFillies. 👍🏻
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May 26, 2020 04:00
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shovelbum posted:Is the Voron actually $1900 to build? I see it cited in the $1200 range which seems reasonable for the BOM Checking in with a colleague who is just about to finish a Voron 2.4, 350x350 sized, and he hasn't cheaped on quality, without going overboard, he's at $2560 AUD to date, and expects it to maybe hit $2,800 by the time he's fully done. $210 AUD is what the filament cost him. You could probably swap some parts out if you're not chasing stupid print speeds, but he is very keen to have the high speed that has been seen in recent builds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6uNQ83_gok being one of them that was doing the rounds.
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May 26, 2020 04:48
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That video makes me laugh giddily.
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May 26, 2020 05:05
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I need the fastest 3d printer you have. No, that's too fast.
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May 26, 2020 05:28
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That is the angriest 3D printer I've seen
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May 26, 2020 05:31
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Making some real strandbeest progress The hatchbox pink is my new favorite pla 
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May 26, 2020 06:09
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That actually looks really sharp combined with the black
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May 26, 2020 06:42
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