|
Mr. Apollo posted:Yeah, they hook your car up to the scanner anytime it’s in the dealer for service now. Sure, but that's not the same as VW requiring that scan data to approve a warranty claim. The dealer does not want to deny your warranty claim, it's not their money.
|
# ? May 20, 2020 12:06 |
|
|
# ? Apr 20, 2024 03:27 |
|
nitsuga posted:Yup, they’ve been pretty great honestly. Rocking a loaner Tiguan, which isn’t half bad. Probably going to spring for the clutch overhaul too, as they’ll do it for the cost of the kit. Not cheap, but hopefully I never have to worry about it again. Definitely hoping for a success story like yours. I paid for a clutch and flywheel as VW considered those wear items and not covered by still $700 for a new engine wasn't a bad deal. They originally thought it was just the cam follower causing the problem but as they tore into it more it was something with the crank shaft. They showed me it when I stopped by the end of the crank was able to move back and forth in the block by about 1/2"
|
# ? May 20, 2020 16:52 |
|
Thumposaurus posted:I paid for a clutch and flywheel as VW considered those wear items and not covered by still $700 for a new engine wasn't a bad deal. Yeah, I asked about a flywheel, and boy those are a pretty penny at $800 or so. I’m pretty sure it’s dual mass, so not really something that can be machined I hear. I’m gonna talk to an independent VW shop about it too, but I’m curious if you’d still opt for it. Dealer said I could probably forgo the both really, but they understand there are benefits to replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The flywheel not so much in their opinion.
|
# ? May 22, 2020 02:17 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Sure, but that's not the same as VW requiring that scan data to approve a warranty claim. The dealer does not want to deny your warranty claim, it's not their money.
|
# ? May 22, 2020 02:29 |
|
nitsuga posted:Yeah, I asked about a flywheel, and boy those are a pretty penny at $800 or so. I’m pretty sure it’s dual mass, so not really something that can be machined I hear. I’m gonna talk to an independent VW shop about it too, but I’m curious if you’d still opt for it. Dealer said I could probably forgo the both really, but they understand there are benefits to replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The flywheel not so much in their opinion. I mean if you have the money I'd go ahead and do it all at once just for piece of mind and not having to pay for it to all be torn apart again in the near future. I asked my dealer about getting the parts myself but they said because it was warranty work it had to be genuine VW parts. Which I was fine paying for in the end they really did help me out a ton with getting it covered.
|
# ? May 22, 2020 02:39 |
|
nitsuga posted:Yeah, I asked about a flywheel, and boy those are a pretty penny at $800 or so. I’m pretty sure it’s dual mass, so not really something that can be machined I hear. I’m gonna talk to an independent VW shop about it too, but I’m curious if you’d still opt for it. Dealer said I could probably forgo the both really, but they understand there are benefits to replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The flywheel not so much in their opinion. There may be a VW OEM Single Mass you could request in place of the OEM Dual Mass.
|
# ? May 22, 2020 16:08 |
|
Regarding the flywheel, I’m still thinking about doing it. Everyone I talked to said they’d check it out, but the dealer is saying they’d want to be done as soon as possible, not waiting on the part. I’ve got a few questions for them though.
|
# ? May 23, 2020 04:34 |
|
Does anybody have any experience with re-manufactured turbos from Rock Auto? I've got a B8 Audi A4 and the little pressed pin on the wastegate arm is loose so it won't boost past 14psi. My local shop wants 3 grand for an OEM Audi turbo, which for that price I might as well just upgrade to a k04. But Rock Auto sells re-manufactured turbos from Mahle/Clevite for about $900 plus a core charge. I would like to just get the re-manufactured turbo if I can, but I have no idea about the quality of Mahle/Clevite parts. Will it last another 100,000km? Or will it just last 20?
|
# ? May 29, 2020 16:56 |
|
MustardFacial posted:Does anybody have any experience with re-manufactured turbos from Rock Auto? I've got a B8 Audi A4 and the little pressed pin on the wastegate arm is loose so it won't boost past 14psi. My local shop wants 3 grand for an OEM Audi turbo, which for that price I might as well just upgrade to a k04. But Rock Auto sells re-manufactured turbos from Mahle/Clevite for about $900 plus a core charge. If you have to replace it 2 more time in the next 100,000km is the hassle not worth it? What if it's just once more?
|
# ? May 29, 2020 17:51 |
|
If I were going to keep the car as a forever car I'd probably go OEM. If I were planning to sell the car in the moderately near future I would slap the reman turbo on there.
|
# ? May 29, 2020 18:06 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If I were going to keep the car as a forever car I'd probably go OEM. If I were planning to sell the car in the moderately near future I would slap the reman turbo on there. Murgos posted:If you have to replace it 2 more time in the next 100,000km is the hassle not worth it? What if it's just once more? I hear what you guys are saying, and I guess it depends on how long I decide to keep this car for. I haven't really thought about it, but I guess if I were to put a reman unit in here and it fails after 50K or so I'd probably just sell it and get something else (see if I can find a cheap S4 or something). I'm also not 100% sure yet that it is the wastegate. All I have to go on so far is the butt dyno and the logs showing a lack of boost. The car hasn't popped a P0299 code yet, and I haven't been able to get underneath the car or remove the intake to wiggle the actuation rod. It could be the N75 valve for all I know (though I don't know how common of an issue that is on the B8, or even really how to diagnose it). I do however have an alternative option that isn't a new turbo: Forge Adjustable Wastegate Actuator - This replacement actuator won't fix the wobbly actuator rod issue, but you can adjust the length on it to make it a bit longer and press the wastegate into position. It's also only $200, and would be a much, much easier install. Once I get home, I'm going to check the wastegate rod and see if it wobbles.
|
# ? May 29, 2020 19:33 |
|
good luck selling an audi with a blown turbo
|
# ? May 29, 2020 19:38 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:good luck selling an audi with a blown turbo I've got a good deal with my local shop. I'll sell it to them and they'll fix it and sell it on. Hell, if they have an S4 maybe we can work out a trade-in deal.
|
# ? May 29, 2020 20:00 |
|
MustardFacial posted:I've got a good deal with my local shop. I'll sell it to them and they'll fix it and sell it on. Hell, if they have an S4 maybe we can work out a trade-in deal. go with god, then!
|
# ? May 29, 2020 20:01 |
|
Hey VW goons, I'm looking for the opinion of someone who owns an Alltrack (or a Golf or SportWagen or whatever) and also rides bikes. I was interested in getting a tray-style bike rack but the manual says that the car will explode or something if I even think of installing a hitch. Does anyone have a solution they like that isn't a trunk rack?
|
# ? May 30, 2020 19:51 |
|
lavaca posted:Hey VW goons, I'm looking for the opinion of someone who owns an Alltrack (or a Golf or SportWagen or whatever) and also rides bikes. I was interested in getting a tray-style bike rack but the manual says that the car will explode or something if I even think of installing a hitch. Does anyone have a solution they like that isn't a trunk rack? They probably don't want you hauling a boat with it, bicycle racks are fine. But looks like there are plenty of options: https://www.etrailer.com/vm/Volkswagen/Golf+SportWagen/hitch Uhaul usually installs these for a hefty fee, but it's possible to do it yourself depending on how much space and equipment you have.
|
# ? May 30, 2020 20:59 |
|
I have a similar hitch on a GTI and it was extremely easy to install myself, took about an hour using wheel ramps.
|
# ? May 30, 2020 21:08 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:go with god, then! UPDATE: After taking a bunch more logs and talking with the guys at Audizine it's looking like the issue isn't with the actuator arm itself, but with the flapper wheel inside the exhaust housing. I still have to pull the cat off to confirm, but if that's the case then it's new turbo time. Fortunately for me CTS Turbo is down the road from my house, and I'm going to be heading over there to see what they have in the area of k04's.
|
# ? Jun 1, 2020 00:18 |
|
MustardFacial posted:UPDATE: Oh no way, I'm in New W. I've used RPI Equipped before and had a very good experience - maybe you can chat with them too and see what they can offer you.
|
# ? Jun 1, 2020 00:33 |
|
VelociBacon posted:Oh no way, I'm in New W. Hah, small world. I've gotten in touch with Malone Tuning in Surrey who made the ECU tune I flashed. They're going through some logs now and will let me know when they figure it out.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2020 04:57 |
|
MustardFacial posted:Hah, small world. For what it's worth I used Racing Greed before in Coquitlam for dyno tuning my RHD sti and they were easy to work with. I did find I really had to be proactive about issues with them though, I had to get it retuned once.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2020 06:16 |
|
Russian Bear posted:They probably don't want you hauling a boat with it, bicycle racks are fine. But looks like there are plenty of options: Turbo cars aren't great for towing because you typically want to keep the engine at higher RPMs than normal. I've heard of someone towing a boat with a Grand National and their headers were literally red hot.
|
# ? Jun 5, 2020 06:08 |
|
How do diesel trucks deal with that problem? Honest question.
|
# ? Jun 5, 2020 06:43 |
|
I think because a diesel engine is a much hardier engine, since diesel is a more powerful fuel. Also diesel engine combustion is a more efficient combustion. This is why they typically have more torque and also last longer. This is why they are better for towing.
|
# ? Jun 7, 2020 13:40 |
|
dialhforhero posted:I think because a diesel engine is a much hardier engine, since diesel is a more powerful fuel. Also diesel engine combustion is a more efficient combustion. This is why they typically have more torque and also last longer. This is why they are better for towing.
|
# ? Jun 7, 2020 17:43 |
|
dialhforhero posted:I think because a diesel engine is a much hardier engine, since diesel is a more powerful fuel. Also diesel engine combustion is a more efficient combustion. This is why they typically have more torque and also last longer. This is why they are better for towing. Diesel has more joules per gram yes, but its also because diesel peak torque is generally very low on the rev range and peaks before HP does. So you can take a trailer from zero without much engine effort, for instance the 3.0l TDI in my Q7, the peak torque is 1,200 rpms. Basically just off idle. The engines are also generally overbuilt too. And yes, fuel efficiency wise, Diesels are extremely efficient at converting fuel to mechanical energy up to 50% of the fuel gets turned into mechanical force. Gas Direct Injection is closing this gap, but under heavy load diesel can generally hold the advantage in fuel efficiency. He's not wrong. The fuel does contain more energy, the motors are overbuilt for the higher compression, and they do tend to readily outlast gasoline motors of the same era. VelociBacon posted:How do diesel trucks deal with that problem? Honest question. When properly tuned, diesel engines exhaust cools RAPIDLY versus gasoline exhaust. Granted: The instantaneous temperature at the exhaust header inlet is very high like gasoline, but it drops rapidly unlike gas motors. Most of the heat gets re-absorbed into the combustion cycle, its part of why diesel cars need turbos specifically built for them to scavenge as much heat/gas energy as it can from the rapidly cooling exhaust. As a Diesel nutcase and VW/Audi Diesel guy: TDIs can tow fine, something like a boat won't be terrible IF you have a good trailer. A lot of the heavier trailers mess with the VW/Audi Automatic gear ratios/shift points on the 6 speed autos, I think they fixed it with the 8 speed autos. If you intend to tow anything heavier than a small boat/trailer, you need something like a Q5/Q7/Atlas/Touareg which has the curb weight and brakes to handle it. I had to tow in Sport mode on the Q7 because it kept trying to shift too early in D even when it knew a trailer was attached, and would lug the engine. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jun 7, 2020 |
# ? Jun 7, 2020 18:56 |
|
You'll probably want to use lower gear in either fueled car as low RPMs and high load are hell of a load on the gearbox and clutch/tc. Gas cars usually use dinkier clutch / dual mass / other fuckery than (passanger) diesels which are designed for low torque. I used to tow a lot with diesel passenger cars and I usually just drove in a gear that resulted revs near mid level. The MPG is going to be poo poo anyway so why not save the drivetrain. You'll end up with red hot turbo, but they're designed to transfer the heat as soon as the load lessens.
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 18:11 |
|
Any tips on purchasing crossbars and cargo boxes? I have a 2015 SportWagen and I do not like the idea that the official parts retail (for the crossbars and cargo box together) for about $700-800.
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 19:18 |
|
yeah wait for a deal on craigslist. roof racks are so cheap used
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 19:29 |
|
Craigslist/FB Marketplace. New OEM/Yakima/Thule are all crazy expensive but there are always tons floating around secondhand.
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 19:29 |
|
BraveUlysses posted:yeah wait for a deal on craigslist. roof racks are so cheap used +1 I picked up a pair of like-new Thule bike racks that retail for $190 each for $75 total. Found some new-old-stock Whispbars from before they got bought out by Yakima for cheap from ReRack. Lot of folks just have this stuff collecting dust in their garage and let it go for cheap. Crossbar towers/mounts can be a bit trickier since it's more car specific, but if you've already got base rails on your GSW you're half way there. The car-specific tower kits aren't awful to buy new, and then pick up the compatible crossbars and box/racks second hand for cheap. Or even just get the VW crossbars, and then go used for everything else like the box or racks. Guinness fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Jun 8, 2020 |
# ? Jun 8, 2020 20:04 |
|
Kivi posted:You'll probably want to use lower gear in either fueled car as low RPMs and high load are hell of a load on the gearbox and clutch/tc. Gas cars usually use dinkier clutch / dual mass / other fuckery than (passanger) diesels which are designed for low torque. That's basically what Sport mode does anyways, just holds the gear longer, and doesn't poo poo into final gear as quickly. Still got like 18/gallon.
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 20:21 |
|
get OEM bars and used everything else imo
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 20:28 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:get OEM bars and used everything else imo The OEM bars are like some pin lock/key system. Do you all happen to know offhand if that is compatible with most other brands of cargo carriers and other equipment?
|
# ? Jun 8, 2020 20:53 |
|
dialhforhero posted:The OEM bars are like some pin lock/key system. Do you all happen to know offhand if that is compatible with most other brands of cargo carriers and other equipment? Most racks and boxes have universal mounts that fit on most bars. You don't have to use the proprietary slot thingy. Thule offers something similar with their T-Slot stuff, and BMW has their own as well (even though its mostly just rebranded Thule) but you don't need to buy into it. They're all just different enough to not be compatible. Technically it may be more secure but it locks (heh) you into a brand, and most stuff has some sort of locking mechanism in the universal mount even if not perfect. Guinness fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jun 8, 2020 |
# ? Jun 8, 2020 21:05 |
|
Most attachments will have a t-slot option that will work with the VW OEM crossbars. I prefer the t-slot as I've had the clamps that hold the attachment to the crossbars break before.
|
# ? Jun 9, 2020 05:36 |
|
dialhforhero posted:Any tips on purchasing crossbars and cargo boxes? I have a 2015 SportWagen and I do not like the idea that the official parts retail (for the crossbars and cargo box together) for about $700-800. Yakima lowrider rail grab towers from ebay (I got 4 for 60 bucks). Round bars from amazon for $100 or CL.
|
# ? Jun 11, 2020 03:50 |
|
So I see a LOT of VWs with sunroofs. I really want a Golf and I need to go used for price. I guess I am having a hard time learning my sunroof lesson but what are the chances of a golf sunroof leaking
|
# ? Jun 15, 2020 18:52 |
|
3 years in, no leaks. Prepare for all the anecdotal evidence.
|
# ? Jun 15, 2020 19:05 |
|
|
# ? Apr 20, 2024 03:27 |
|
dialhforhero posted:So I see a LOT of VWs with sunroofs. I really want a Golf and I need to go used for price. I guess I am having a hard time learning my sunroof lesson but what are the chances of a golf sunroof leaking Small/normal sunroof is probably fine. Pano sunroof on the wagons, no.
|
# ? Jun 15, 2020 19:41 |