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Tolerances are for people who can’t hold their booze.
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May 24, 2020 00:42
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| # ? Apr 16, 2024 12:43 |
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DrChu posted:
I just installed that mtec spring on mine this morning. It's perfect. I get plenty of feedback on the clutch engaging through my foot, the pedal is plenty light, and there's no slop at the top.
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May 25, 2020 15:00
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honda whisperer posted:I just installed that mtec spring on mine this morning. It's perfect. I get plenty of feedback on the clutch engaging through my foot, the pedal is plenty light, and there's no slop at the top. I ended up ordering one a couple days ago since FTSpeed is having a sale. Having no spring in there has been better than stock, but it’s a lot more effort. Hopefully I’ll get it and be able to install next weekend.
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May 25, 2020 16:59
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Granted I haven't had a MT car for a while but what is the reasoning?
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May 25, 2020 18:52
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C-Bangin' it 
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Most manuals have dual mass flywheels at this point which tend to have a poo poo pedal feel. Or overpowered pedal springs. Or both.
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May 25, 2020 19:02
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Brzs/ft86s etc have a helper spring to push down the clutch pedal in the pedal assembly. It also seems to slow or mess with letting the clutch out. Good if you're bad at manuals since it will help you not stall it but bad if you know what you're doing since it numbs it and makes engagement based on position and speed, instead of just position. The aftermarket one is a much much weaker spring. I've had this car for 3 years and today was the first time I didn't have a wtf moment letting the clutch out.
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May 25, 2020 21:19
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Suburban Dad posted:Most manuals have dual mass flywheels at this point which tend to have a poo poo pedal feel. Or overpowered pedal springs. Or both. and, additionally, a flow restrictor in the clutch slave cylinder to control pressure plate engagement speed
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May 25, 2020 23:13
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The weirdest clutch I ever had under my foot was a manual Ferrari F360 and it felt like the clutch actuation could not keep up at all with the speed at which the engine was willing to change revs when you went into the upper power band. It was also the hardest clutch I remember. The engagement point was so far up the travel though that it didn't feel necessary to fully push down the pedal and you could just shift it at half the travel. Kinda what a manual truck feels like where at the end of the travel you have the transmission brake so you never depress it fully unless you come to a full stop. Loved the open gated shift pattern though. Very satisfying clunk. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 23:42 on May 25, 2020 |
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May 25, 2020 23:35
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Safety check on the ol' towpig GMT800. Nothing new leaking, everything now attached securely. That rattle I've been hearing from the back might have been the 7-pin bracket that was held in place by gravity. Now it's got a nylock and should stay put. I also replaced 4 of six of the LED 194 bulb replacements I added a while ago. Good thing it was a cheap bag of ebay crap so I had the spares handy. 
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May 25, 2020 23:46
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Boys who love boys
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Cleaned/rewired the grounds on the Hardbody and now my lights work, wipers aren't stuck at 30% normal speed and my hazard switch doesn't cause the coolant gauge to freak out, yay! Also replaced one of the fuel evap lines. I let the truck run more than a few minutes for the first time and was freaked out to see whitish puffs coming from the exhaust. It didn't smell sweet and there's no milkshake gunk on the radiator cap/oil cap/dipstick. Maybe it was condensation in the pipes from having sat for who knows how long? It finally went away after about 10 minutes.
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May 26, 2020 04:34
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BlackMK4 posted:and, additionally, a flow restrictor in the clutch slave cylinder to control pressure plate engagement speed My to do list for my 335i is to remove the clutch delay valve (also replace the DMFW/clutch). The clutch feel is definitely weird and does have this very definite delay to it that is probably great for stop and go city traffic, but really just hampers things if you are looking to row more aggressively.
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May 27, 2020 13:42
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Combat Theory posted:The weirdest clutch I ever had under my foot was a manual Ferrari F360 and it felt like the clutch actuation could not keep up at all with the speed at which the engine was willing to change revs when you went into the upper power band. Too light is weird, too. My metro has such a light clutch it's like stepping in a bucket of cotton candy.
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May 27, 2020 16:59
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Ok so how do I get a hose clamp over this? You don’t  Disc brake kit acts as axel retainers so have to wait for my rear control arms and pumpkin to arrive before I fit the entire kit but I replaced all the lines so now all the brake lines and hoses are brand new.
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May 29, 2020 00:18
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Unthread the hose clamp all the way, open it, slide it around the tube and close it back down. Or bring it to me and I'll weld that tab on instead of hose clamping it down for like, one beer or a bad joke, especially if I've already got the welder out that day.
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May 29, 2020 01:36
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I though about unwinding it but it has tabs to stop it fully unwinding which is why I was confused they would send it. I assume they think I can bend it over the end of the housing but there is the suspension mounts in the way. Once I have the rest of it to put together I will probably weld it in.
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May 29, 2020 11:00
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kastein posted:It's 6 nuts and one bolt to drop the entire ej25 NA exhaust as a unit. Why are you bothering to try doing it in-car? Because I didn't know better.  I was in a hurry to get rid of the CEL and complete a drive cycle. Still got it done in an hour and a half (a good bit of that was dealing with getting it unplugged without breaking the connector, then routing the wire back up and getting the plug to finally click back in) when a shop said book time was 2 hours.I don't know if the exhaust has ever been off of this shitbox either. With my luck I would have snapped every fastener.
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May 29, 2020 11:21
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The studs at the cylinder head are remarkably hard to break. Even up here I've never broken one, normally either the stainless nuts just spin right off, or they stick to the stud and thread it out, or worst case strip the threads in the aluminum head, which means it's now a 5 minute task to clear it out with a drill and helicoil it (m10x1.25 kit is on the shelf at AutoZone.) That connector was annoying the first time but at this point I've got so much practice (between my exhaust falling apart early and often and my engine needing replacement so many times) I can unplug them one handed blind. If you hold it right and put your thumbnail under the retention clip you can kinda flip it upward while applying tension and it'll just pop apart.
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May 29, 2020 15:42
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I did an oil change on my moms w169 Mercedes A-class, sice the cost of a service is rapidly approaching the value of the car. It was easily the best car oil change experience i've had. Didn't even need to jack up the car. Crack loose the top mounted filter and stick the extractor in the dipstick hole. By the time the oil had extracted, the filter was dry and could be removed with no mess. The filter cap had the torque spec printed on. The filler neck was easily accessable and took a normal funnel. The oil capacity was 5 litres flat, leaving me with no akward leftover oil. If Mercedes can make it that easy in such a tightly packaged car, why is it such an ordeal in many other cars?
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May 30, 2020 11:31
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Humbug posted:I did an oil change on my moms w169 Mercedes A-class, sice the cost of a service is rapidly approaching the value of the car. It was easily the best car oil change experience i've had. Didn't even need to jack up the car. One of my biggest gripes is not putting an access hole in skid plates for the oil filter. It would be possible to remove the oil filter on my sequoia without removing the factory skid plate, but oil would drain all over it and make a gigantic mess, not to mention drip oil in the driveway for the next week afterwards. WHY MAKE IT SUCH A PAIN?!?? It just means lovely oil lube places either make a mess or remove the skid plate and throw it away. Also, if you manage in hitting the oil pan in that car on a rock, you've messed up BAD. My old 300td with the om617 is similar levels of easy. I don't have an oil extractor so I just drive it up on ramps to get the drain plug, but just as easy.
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May 30, 2020 13:00
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chrisgt posted:Also, if you manage in hitting the oil pan in that car on a rock, you've messed up BAD. It's there for aerodynamic reasons, not as protection.
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May 30, 2020 13:29
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Humbug posted:I did an oil change on my moms w169 Mercedes A-class, sice the cost of a service is rapidly approaching the value of the car. It was easily the best car oil change experience i've had. Didn't even need to jack up the car. GM did something similarly nice on the first gen Ecotecs. 5 quarts (it has a typical pan drain plug, but accessible without lifting if you just turn the wheels hard right when you park it), top mounted filter cartridge. If you had the supercharged version it was a lot harder to change the filter. When I did my first (... only, so far) oil change on Brokeback, the first thing I did was rip off the plastic poo poo. The front crank seal leaks, the rear crank seal leaks... that poo poo was NASTY. And it all has to come off to get to the oil filter anyway. kastein posted:The studs at the cylinder head are remarkably hard to break. Even up here I've never broken one, normally either the stainless nuts just spin right off, or they stick to the stud and thread it out, or worst case strip the threads in the aluminum head, which means it's now a 5 minute task to clear it out with a drill and helicoil it (m10x1.25 kit is on the shelf at AutoZone.) Yeah I wound up breaking the clip on the connector, it was obvious it'd never been apart. And at 18 years old... it didn't want to come apart easily. It has a few zip ties holding the connectors together now. Good to know about the exhaust, though my assortment of tools at the moment is extremely limited. Almost everything is in storage while roommate and I decide what to do - he's on month to month on this duplex, and we're hoping to move to a nicer place sometime soon (this neighborhood isn't... great, and the landlord isn't exactly responsive to issues). Problem is he caught a felony (24 years ago), so options are a little more limited, even though it happened when he was 16 (non-violent, but hosed up his ~3 year probation right when he turned 18, so spent a year in state prison). I may wind up going back out on my own, depends how much my raise is next month. e: I've known him for over 20 years, before anyone tells me to  - he was one of the first people I met when I moved to DFW ages ago.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:22 on May 30, 2020 |
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May 30, 2020 16:19
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 Anyone need and bodywork done?
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May 30, 2020 18:23
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Nidhg00670000 posted:It's there for aerodynamic reasons, not as protection. Ahh, that makes sense. Didn't make that connection because it's from an era where they made those out of metal not plastic...
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May 31, 2020 13:39
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The most user friendly oil filter I've ever seen was on a Baja package Tacoma. The filter is at engine level, upside down, attached to a funnel shaped thing. I was almost moved to tears.
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May 31, 2020 14:25
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Toyota seems to have some consideration for LOF jockeys. The filter location on the 91 Tercel I had was dead simple to change. Even when it's in the car you have plenty of space to reach in and grab it
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May 31, 2020 16:28
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Got BC Racing coilovers for my Chrysler 300C. Got the back done, pulled the front wheel off, and realized they sent me the fronts for an AWD. Gonna have to contact them on Monday and get it corrected.
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May 31, 2020 16:40
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Panty Saluter posted:Toyota seems to have some consideration for LOF jockeys. The filter location on the 91 Tercel I had was dead simple to change. Even when it's in the car you have plenty of space to reach in and grab it A) I've never seen such a clean 3E-E B) I still managed to burn myself on the manifold more than once e: found a picture of mine. Yes I was a ricer in high school what of it 
opengl fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 31, 2020 |
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May 31, 2020 16:42
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Can confirm both 2JZ and 7M oil filter locations are easy enough to grab from the top of the engine bay. Recently did an oil change on a Honda B20A and that loving thing is like a ninja, you can locate it underneath the car one minute and then it disappears again if you move to grab a tool or whatever. It sits right under the intake between the engine and the firewall and you have to be in a particular spot to see it, let alone grab it. Impossible not to get oil dribbling onto everything below it (including the exhaust).
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May 31, 2020 16:55
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opengl128 posted:A) I've never seen such a clean 3E-E http://www.ritalie.com/tercel/engine.htm I lifted it from a Turbo Tercel project site. It's very unusual to not see them caked with the gallons of oil they piss everywhere Also holy poo poo, I had the same strut brace. It made a huge difference for that soft-rear end chassis
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May 31, 2020 18:17
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Panty Saluter posted:Also holy poo poo, I had the same strut brace. It made a huge difference for that soft-rear end chassis Ha! Yes, it did. But by far the biggest improvement was putting 15x7 wheels on it. Felt like a different car compared to the lol 13" wheels it came with. I had a Paseo sway bar that I never got around to installing too (actually I think it's still in my parents' basement somewhere). That car was an econoturd but I loved it. Put in Paseo seats, steering wheel, and cluster (w/ tach, essential with my 3 speed auto lol) too.
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May 31, 2020 19:10
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Mine did have the 4 speed manual (!), which probably was no faster. Always wanted to do a Starlet Turbo swap, which was dirt rear end cheap around 2000. I was broke as a joke at the time though. Also 15 x 7s must have been phenomenal on that car. Prolly killed the 0-60 though
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May 31, 2020 22:39
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Those are decent to access but it's game changing when they're totally vertical in the engine bay so you don't even have to clean up drips.
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May 31, 2020 22:47
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Panty Saluter posted:Mine did have the 4 speed manual (!), which probably was no faster. Always wanted to do a Starlet Turbo swap, which was dirt rear end cheap around 2000. I was broke as a joke at the time though. I talked to the guy in FL who was doing those 4E-FTE swaps, but could never afford it either. Now I've been looking at importing a Starlet haha.
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Jun 1, 2020 06:22
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Can confirm both 2JZ and 7M oil filter locations are easy enough to grab from the top of the engine bay. Recently did an oil change on a Honda B20A and that loving thing is like a ninja, you can locate it underneath the car one minute and then it disappears again if you move to grab a tool or whatever. It sits right under the intake between the engine and the firewall and you have to be in a particular spot to see it, let alone grab it. Impossible not to get oil dribbling onto everything below it (including the exhaust). It's in the same spot on most Honda engines of that era. I didn't even bother climbing under my Civics (D16) or my Integra (B18A) to pull the filter, just reached under the intake and grabbed it. One of the few times I actually did climb under the Civic to do an oil change, I got a CEL pretty quickly after startup for the knock sensor. Turns out the fucker is right by the filter and the wire gets knocked off entirely too easily.  1MZ-FE filters are similarly easy to get to as the Tercel motor, so long as you don't mind 2nd degree burns from the front exhaust manifold.
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Jun 1, 2020 06:30
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Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)...
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Jun 1, 2020 23:06
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I'm digging the whitewalls.
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Jun 1, 2020 23:08
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Yep. Whitewalls were clearly the correct choice here.
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Jun 2, 2020 00:21
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chrisgt posted:Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)... Truly a goon after my own heart 
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Jun 2, 2020 00:51
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chrisgt posted:Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)... Good things to come out of 2020. Going back to space. This metro.
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Jun 2, 2020 02:03
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| # ? Apr 16, 2024 12:43 |
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chrisgt posted:Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)... I see no mental problems in the slightest. Today I swapped out an obnoxious full-screen double-din JDM headunit out of the Land Cruiser that, despite being in Japanese, was also just an obtuse piece of garbage. No bluetooth, no AUX in, and no way to dim or shut off the display which means at night, full-bright city. Changed it for a Clarion Marine single-din unit with everything I want and nothing else. Plus, you can turn the display completely off just by holding the big knob in for a second.  Also replaced that center surround, added that little plastic pocket under the head unit, and replaced the sun visors because the other ones were fuuuucked.    Adjusted the AC idle (a 10 mm wrench and 2~ minutes is all you need) and now I don't think there is much else I'll do to it before we put it up for sale. After doing the reverse-wash on the badges to make them white on black the only other thing I'd want to do would be to paint the wheels themselves white, but the cost and effort for something I don't plan on keeping is too much. 
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Jun 2, 2020 20:52
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