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Suicide Watch posted:Could it be faulty even if the a/c clutch engages and a pressure differential exists between the hi and lo gauges? Sure. I mean, I'm thinking that your pressure differential sounds a little low, but not catastrophically so. It should be doing some cooling. That's why I'm asking about other stuff too. And on that note: are you sure the blend door is even working inside? Because you really should be seeing SOME sort of vent temp difference.
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May 31, 2020 00:06
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Motronic posted:Sure. I mean, I'm thinking that your pressure differential sounds a little low, but not catastrophically so. It should be doing some cooling. That's why I'm asking about other stuff too. Just checked. I don't think it's the blend doors, since when I set the temp to max heat, the air coming out was definitely hotter.
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May 31, 2020 00:48
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Motronic posted:What's the pressure valve setup like in this? It's is low/high valve? Curious why it was still running at that high pressure. It is a r134A system from a 95 mx3 retrofitted into a 323 chassis. See: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3841304&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post494092169 -Hardlines https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3841304&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post495302160 - Compressor and rubber lines made up to fit, no real change in length from the mx-3 system. I am using: -1995 MX-3 evaporator core (stock, did not replace) -1994-1996 MX-3 expansion valve (4 seasons 39053) -1995 MX-3 stock lines from compressor suction to receiver drier -1992-1995 MX-3 receiver drier (4 seasons 33581) -1992-1996 MX-3 condensor (APDI Pro 7014372) -1992-1995 MX-3 compressor (4 seasons 57495) System control is 95 MX-3 V6 logic pushbutton (not the i4 sliders) Mazda 1995 MX-3 FSM: http://foxed.ca/323/fsm/1995%20US%20WSM.pdf AC section is G, starts at pg 793 (AC section is G-50, pg 842) On the stock hard lines, there is a pressure switch, it has a high and low cutout. High pressure cut is 430psi, which is what I saw happening.  Now, as for oil capacities, I had trouble interpreting the manual. This was listed:   So, since I was starting with a new, clean system I took that to mean: 1oz condenser + 2 oz evaporator core + 0.2 oz piping + 0.3 oz receiver drier + 5.92oz compressor =9.42 oz The 4 seasons compressor paperwork claimed different (I'll dig out the paperwork later, I can't remember if their online guide was different): https://www.4s.com/media/5421/four-seasons-capacity-guide.pdf "95-94 All Eng. - 26.50 Oz. R-134a; 6.25 Oz. PAG-100" So, 6.25 oz. I don't think I added the entire 9.42oz, I seem to remember splitting the difference around 8 oz. Mazda called for ATMOS GU10, which google claimed was PAG46. 4 seasons wanted PAG100. One thing to note is that the system worked well for two summers. Last summer the expansion valve/expansion core area started making a hissing fluid sound at idle.
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Jun 1, 2020 18:07
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Sgt Fox posted:It is a r134A system from a 95 mx3 retrofitted into a 323 chassis. Wow, okay, nice documentation. So most importantly, this was a working system. For a good long time. So I think we can safely say that the assumptions you made about oil quantity were good enough. Type, maybe not. But then again, you said you already pulled the expansion valve and it was clean. If you were having system damage I'd expect parts of the compressor to be in there. So what's left? Maybe your receiver dryer? Without any other information or seeing it first hand I'd probably go with an expansion valve (since it was noisy) and a receiver dryer since you ought to be replacing that anyway after the system was opened. When you took this all apart to blow air through it, I assume you didn't have anything nasty looking coming out? I'm having a real hard time coming up with how it could be the compressor since it is in fact creating a pressure differential.
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Jun 1, 2020 19:22
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Motronic posted:Wow, okay, nice documentation. I ordered the expansion valve on the weekend, didn't get a new receiver drier though... shoot. I've been careful of leaving the system open, after I emptied and blew the compressed air through (air compressor has a drier on it), I made sure to pull a good vacuum on the system for 30 min, so perhaps the drier isn't necessary? (If you think it is still, I'll place another order, might be best, I assume it traps some schmoo in the system as well? Plus I could reinstall with less oil?) One thing to note, is that when the system was working well before, pressures on the high side were still higher than what Mazda stated in their manual. I would see 250-350 IIRC. When I was blowing through the system, only clean oil/dye came out, no chunkies, no gel, nothing. Colour in the dye was as bright as new. Thanks for your help so far!
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Jun 1, 2020 20:00
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I mean......is it necessary necessary once the system has been open? No. I mean yes. Or...no. I've done plenty of 45-60 minute vacs on beater and called it good enough, and it's of course lasted for a long time. But we've got a couple things going on here: potentially a shmoo pit, don't know for sure and we do know for sure that this is NOT a beater and it's full of basically new components. So I'd pony up for the dryer. High side being higher than normal could be a bunch of things, including the expansion valve which may never have been quite right to begin with. You very well could have gotten something bad out of the box.
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Jun 1, 2020 20:08
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Yeah, fair, I shall order then. I am pretty sure I got the correct oil. I don't really trust anything 4 seasons says. In this guide: https://www.extant.gr/datafiles//_MT9134%20illustrated%20catalog-compressed_Part1.pdf PAG 46 Mazda Compressors Atmos GU10 PAG 100 Mazda Compressors Atmos GU20 I also see listings for the Mazda oil part numbers: A055-61-K39 ATMOS GU10 (PAG 46) refrigerant oil (60mL) C003-61-K39 ATMOS GU10 (PAG 46) refrigerant oil (40mL) So that seems to indicate PAG46=GU10
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Jun 1, 2020 20:32
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You're probably fine on oil weight. I've anecdotally heard more problems with too heavy than too light. And all of the problems end up with a trashed compressor. I'm not buying that being an issue after you've run this for 2 seasons and it's still producing a pressure differential.
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Jun 1, 2020 20:54
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Seeing as I'm doing a complete refresh of all the main AC parts of my 95 miata, it only figures that I snap a bolt off in the compressor. I tried drilling it out, but it's so far off center that if I take the hole any bigger, I'll just wash the threads out. My core is worthless because of that off-center hole unless I can sneak that thing onto the hole-popper at work (EDM) but I have no idea how deep to drill it. Also I'm sure I've contaminated it by now. So, what's the story on the remanufactured compressors on Rockauto? Should I just bite the bullet and get a new one? It's a nippondenso Tv12
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Jun 1, 2020 21:22
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How closely do you think most cores get looked at?
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Jun 1, 2020 22:52
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BloodBag posted:So, what's the story on the remanufactured compressors on Rockauto? I've used a bunch of them and the quality has been fine. Also, what IoC said about cores. They're gonna take it.
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Jun 1, 2020 23:48
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Motronic posted:I've used a bunch of them and the quality has been fine. Makes me feel bad for the next guy, having been the next guy victimized by a rattlecan rebuild courtesy of A1 cardon't. But I guess I can see.
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Jun 2, 2020 12:19
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I would sincerely hope whoever rebuilds it actually looks at it, but that's not the same person who is going to see "yep, it's a core" and give you money while shipping it back to Cardone.
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Jun 2, 2020 16:39
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My 20k mile 92 Celsior is fast approaching $1k in repairs and supplies and AC is failing again. The shop and myself assume it is leaking from evaporator behind dash. They can evacuate it and test for leaks all day and find none. Just had it done again with my own r12 it had lasted 2 months they evacuated checked leaks found none it took 2 cans of my stash. It is already almost back to non working. Compressor works fine until it gets too low where it won’t come on. Do I just give up or do I dig into the dash. Probably be another 6-900 in parts and labor I have 4 cans of r12 left. Frustrating to say the least. Was going to keep this as the family daily but if I keep pouring Money into AC maybe I should just get rid of it.
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Jun 7, 2020 04:39
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Is there dye in the system? That's how you find these leaks. Use a uv flashlight and it will light up like toxic waste.
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Jun 7, 2020 19:40
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Motronic posted:Is there dye in the system? That's how you find these leaks. Use a uv flashlight and it will light up like toxic waste. Yes they have filled it with dye 4 times, first time found a big o ring, second time a tiny pinhole, and now last 2 can find no leaks with dye in it. When I took the kids to get ice cream yesterday when I came out there was quite a bit of water under where the glove box area/firewall would be on the asphalt (I’m talking like someone spilled a can of coke amount). I expect when we go to take car later to go to their moms it won’t be cooking at all
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Jun 7, 2020 20:52
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So you need to actually look at the evap then. And all the other inconvenient places that it could be leaking. This isn't rocket science, it's just labor.
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Jun 7, 2020 21:40
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Motronic posted:So you need to actually look at the evap then. And all the other inconvenient places that it could be leaking. I’m going full SEND and have ordered everything evap drier expansion poo poo and i forget it all. Gonna pull everything and redo it and convert to r134 the right way. You win this time Motronic! Except one part that only exists from 90-92 it is a pressure release or something that is $700 from lexus and unavailable rest of world it quiets the system when going from a high load to low. Prone to leakage and there are YouTube videos to bypass but if we convert to r134 and we don’t bypass yet it is by cruise control under hood and we can test for leaks there. Expansion release valve? I don’t know f it I’ve ordered all the parts but that. Going to do an apple car play equipped head unit and rear view cam while Dash is out too. everdave fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 04:03
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everdave posted:I’m going full retard Please don't say this anymore, tia. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3926936&pagenumber=1&perpage=40
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Jun 10, 2020 08:45
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Elmnt80 posted:Please don't say this anymore, tia. noted
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Jun 10, 2020 21:12
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Does it matter inside an evaporator which side goes on which? All the American perfect match Toyota part # Evans have the inlets flip flopped from my RHD Celsior I cant even find a Celsior evap overseas. This car has been torn apart two weeks. Can we just file down the top big inlet side and attach the new USA evap? It’s like 19 vs 21 mm
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Jun 19, 2020 18:54
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Motronic posted:Sure. I mean, I'm thinking that your pressure differential sounds a little low, but not catastrophically so. It should be doing some cooling. That's why I'm asking about other stuff too. Well, there was at least a condenser leak–My UV lamp wasnt strong enough but the shop found it easily. Given the age of the system there were likely other leak points too, so I’m glad I had them do the work before this scorcher of a week. Apparently some cars have a low refrigerant pressure shut off valve?
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Jun 21, 2020 01:06
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Suicide Watch posted:Apparently some cars have a low refrigerant pressure shut off valve? All.
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Jun 21, 2020 01:44
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Motronic posted:All. So that must have been why the condenser wasn't cooling–that said I put in almost a full can of refrigerant so even though it was leaking I'm surprised there wasn't enough in the system.
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Jun 21, 2020 02:42
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