|
I got some good climbing in this weekend. On sighted up to 10c and led a 11b. Not bad for taking 2 months doing nothing.
|
#
?
May 26, 2020 03:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 04:45 |
|
|
I miss climbing
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2020 21:07
|
|
|
remote control carnivore posted:I cook at a college. I'm unemployed right now, of course. There are a few students on campus but our execs are handling that. So, I just climb and hope I have a job to come back to in the fall. It's a really good gig, I get paid well for what I do, I do basically whatever I want and as long as I'm making money and the students are happy, management stays off my back. I do not want to give it up. Ah, gotcha. Sounds like a good situation, hope it works out. If its the college Im thinking of, I think I know a couple other people there albeit in other departments. That sounds cool, Ive never worked on developing anything past flailing around on random boulders or come across, heh. spwrozek posted:I got some good climbing in this weekend. On sighted up to 10c and led a 11b. Not bad for taking 2 months doing nothing. Nice, whered you guys go? bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I miss climbing hell, same
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2020 21:48
|
|
|
Hauki posted:Nice, where’d you guys go? We were camping north of New Castle. We climbed at main elk, biked on the New Castle trails, and skied up on Hagerman pass. It was a true Colorado memorial day weekend. E: we saw 0 people biking, 6 people climbing, and 0 people skiing if people were curious. spwrozek fucked around with this message at 22:31 on May 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2020 22:26
|
|
|
bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I miss climbing I had 2 dreams about it this weekend  And now people on Reddit in other regions are starting to be able to climb again and it's making it so much worse lol
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2020 23:53
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:We were camping north of New Castle. We climbed at main elk, biked on the New Castle trails, and skied up on Hagerman pass. It was a true Colorado memorial day weekend. Awesome. It's totally possible to get out there without it being unsafe, even on the crowded Front Range. I have even braved Turkey Rock a few times midweek. Not bad, as long as you avoid the Perch. Just have a plan to bail somewhere else. Good work on your sends. Hauki posted:Ah, gotcha. Sounds like a good situation, hope it works out. If it’s the college I’m thinking of, I think I know a couple other people there albeit in other departments. We didn't end up going out to our area, that cold snap we got sent us packing. The crag is at about 10k and we're wimps who want to climb in the sun. Soon, though! Developing will be fun, especially since I have no idea what the gently caress I'm doing.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2020 01:27
|
|
|
What are people's thoughts on TR solo/self-belaying? Since it's looking like either gyms won't be open for a while, or you'll need to reserve your time thus making it hard to flexibly climb with partners, I'm thinking of picking up some ascenders and rigging up TR solo lines at the local crag after work for when I'm not feeling like only hangboarding. Anyway, does this mean I'm gonna die? Is the Micro Traxion the best device to use? Is doing laps boring and overrated, and TR solo only good for practicing for redpoints? Interested in seeing if anyone here has experience.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2020 04:28
|
|
|
Havent done it outside, but did it for a while when I was helping out at a gym. I was how you adjusted stuff on the wall quickly and an easy way to test short sections of routes you set. You wont die, but it does take a little bit to get used to it. Same as anything. I was using a grigri for the belay/block. Dumb? Probably, but thats normal for me.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2020 14:32
|
|
|
I've also done it a bunch setting and always used a grigri with backup knots in the brake line so if it slips you don't hit the ground.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2020 16:47
|
|
|
I've been doing a little bit of top rope soloing in the past few weeks on a gri gri (2019 version) with a clove hitch backup on a separate strand. It is doable but not very effective. The rope doesn't feed very well through the gri gri and moving the clove hitch is a pain. I also got the chance to try out someone else's double micro traxion setup and it was approximately 10 times better. I'm thinking I will either get two micro traxions or a micro traxion and a cheaper camming ascender. I've been happy running 3 or 4 laps on the same relatively easy route before moving my setup but your mileage may vary. One of the crags here also has top anchors spaced closely enough that you can move the rope while hanging at the top with minimal fuss which is nice. Petzl has some good information on their website about possible systems and their drawbacks. This is the first of many pages: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/To-read-for-self-belaying?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing. And there are plenty of threads on the proj about it as well. Some of them even have useful information in them.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2020 16:52
|
|
|
A friend of a friend built a small 8 foot wall in his back yard and I got to use it yesterday! Unfortunately so many manufacturers are out of stock on holds due to everyone in the world building their own walls, so all he has was able to buy things I would classify as footholds lol. The wall was only 20° but with those tiny little crimp holds it was extremely hard. Oh well, still fun! My gym sent out an email this weekend, first communication in quite a while. All the things you'd expect: "We hope to open in July, reservation system, don't climb problems right next to another person" etc etc. Fortunately in addition to the main entrance, there are 2 other sets of double doors which are normally locked, but they said they're going to open them up and have the HVAC system on full blast to maximize airflow to help mitigate any sort of" viral load build up" I'm not confident their July estimation is reasonable though. I suspect that inevitable "Wave 2" of Corona will result in things getting pushed back / locked down again. And god knows what the fallout of all these protests will be :/
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 15:15
|
|
|
Some gyms have opened as of yesterday here. No word on my gym. I might cancel my membership, I can't see going this year. Just ride more bikes and maybe climb in some obscure places.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 15:36
|
|
|
Unfortunately I don't especially enjoy most of forms of exercise. But yea the friend who invited me over last night said she was up for trying to explore some local areas which is cool because my "main" climbing friend is no longer allowed to climb outdoors per the fiancé
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 16:27
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Unfortunately I don't especially enjoy most of forms of exercise. But yea the friend who invited me over last night said she was up for trying to explore some local areas which is cool because my "main" climbing friend is no longer allowed to climb outdoors per the fiancé Why can't your friend climb outside?!?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 16:32
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Why can't your friend climb outside?!? It's probably related to the danger (or perceived danger) of the activity both related and unrelated to Covid. As a dad of 3 young kids, I would understand if my girlfriend didn't want me to climb. I doubt I'd stop (unless she or my kids were in a high risk group for covid complication) but I'd be ok with doing a lot of explaining and being even safer than I am now. \/ \/ Seems weird for a simple finger injury if she was ok with it first. \/ \/ KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jun 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 16:59
|
|
|
He sprained his thumb pretty hard on an awkward fall on his first time climbing outdoors :/ when they both got home apparently she was like, "No more!"
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 17:03
|
|
|
That seems dumb but probably not worth fighting with the fiance.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 17:56
|
|
|
I think its understandable to be extremely risk averse about any injurious activity right now, and while i think climbing outdoors could be done safely, not a great look to get injured the first time you do it. IMO the biggest worry for young, otherwise healthy ppl is not necessarily the acute COVID-19 disease but the even-less-understood long-term sequelae. Even if you recover and clear the infection, youre not necessarily out of the woods w/r/t long term negative health outcomes. This is one of the reasons why the this is only making old ppl die a little bit sooner than they would have otherwise, whats the big deal! line of thinking is so short-sighted.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 19:44
|
|
|
my gym reopened this week with the following stipulations A: max # of people in the building for various timeslots. it works out to not even an average concentration of people, i think it was 40 B: everyone has to have a mask on at all times and wash their hands before entering the building C: liquid chalk only, water fountains dont work D: two metres apart when not actually on the wall E: goes without saying but nobody with a cough or any symptoms allowed in seemed OK. kinda hard to imagine what the vector would be at that point short of someone taking their mask off which nobody did (they were pretty vigilant about enforcing the sitting apart rule i assume they'd go after someone not wearing a mask) edit: its probably important to mention that i'm in BC and while we don't have this thing licked, we've done a pretty good job with it overall
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 22:23
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:my gym reopened this week with the following stipulations The liquid chalk part is pretty cool. When I first read it about a gym in Australia I thought wow that's amazing, might actually make opening gyms feasible. We're pretty lucky that there's a way to clean our hands between every climb because cleaning the equipment is not really possible The only part I wonder about is the # of people allowed in at the same time. Not sure I'd pay for a membership if getting in was hit or miss and if there's not enough people getting memberships it might not be worth it for the gym to stay open anyway. But I tend to go when there's pretty much no one else so I'd probably be ok.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 23:15
|
|
|
i would not trust liquid chalks alcohol content to be sufficient to sterilize your hands, but i think if all the other precautions are taken seriously, your hands arent even going be a vector to begin with. the liquid chalk thing i believe is primarily to reduce the chances of, say, making an asymptomatic carrier sneeze or cough
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 00:13
|
|
|
My local gym (Albuquerque) has opened with similar precautions. 20 people per entry time, walls sectioned into zones with no more then 2 people (climber/belayer) per zone, hand sanitizer between climbs, masks when not actively climbing, and 3-ft. vinyl sleeves on top ropes above the pre-tied figure 8 for easy wipe down. Went for the first time in 2.5 months, and it was both humbling struggling up things I used to cruise and glorious to be back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 02:56
|
|
|
I checked in on my gym, they haven't set a reopening yet but their guidelines include that you have to reserve a section of wall and can't climb outside the bounds of what you reserved. I'm looking forward to hearing about but not personally witnessing the inevitable meltdowns that ensue. Time for the mountains!
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 03:48
|
|
|
remote control carnivore posted:I checked in on my gym, they haven't set a reopening yet but their guidelines include that you have to reserve a section of wall and can't climb outside the bounds of what you reserved. I'm looking forward to hearing about but not personally witnessing the inevitable meltdowns that ensue. Time for the mountains! I wonder how many gyms won't be able to stay afloat with guidelines like that. Not saying the guidelines are bad, I really don't know what is going to be safe and possible, but I don't think I would pay for a membership in conditions like that. Not until it's not climbable outside anyway
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 18:42
|
|
|
I go to the gym for two reasons. Maintain my ability to onsight most 5.11s and to hang out with friends. Since you can't hang out with friends that sucks. There are tons of 5.10 or less climbs I have never been on so I can always adjust to that. Plus in Colorado you can pretty much always climb and once it snows I would rather be skiing anyways.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 18:47
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:I wonder how many gyms won't be able to stay afloat with guidelines like that. Not saying the guidelines are bad, I really don't know what is going to be safe and possible, but I don't think I would pay for a membership in conditions like that. Not until it's not climbable outside anyway And it's not just about memberships for gyms too, they make a ton of money off of events like the birthday parties for kids. It's going to be a lot harder to do things like that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 18:51
|
|
|
remote control carnivore posted:I checked in on my gym, they haven't set a reopening yet but their guidelines include that you have to reserve a section of wall and can't climb outside the bounds of what you reserved. I'm looking forward to hearing about but not personally witnessing the inevitable meltdowns that ensue. Time for the mountains! Reserve wall sections? Lol. My gym has been opened with a reservation system to enter the building and its been maybe half the limit everyday. People generally keep their distance and the like so it hasnt been bad.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 19:09
|
|
|
Reserving a section seems weird but at least it would force me to focus on a problem rather than wandering around randomly. My gym has a general entry reservation policy but it's only a formality because other than sometimes the 6:30-8:30 block it's never full. I could spend the whole day there by just reserving that block and walking in as standby every other block. But yeah, I'm not sure how long they can run like this, because it's only open to members and we're the least profitable people.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 21:09
|
|
|
Rock Spot in Boston seems like theyll moves to a 1hr 45min time-slot reservation system and a limited number of people inside with everyone wearing masks while climbing. Im planning on pausing my membership for probably another 6 months.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 22:05
|
|
|
My hands gonna be so soft by the time I go back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2020 22:36
|
|
|
gohuskies posted:And it's not just about memberships for gyms too, they make a ton of money off of events like the birthday parties for kids. It's going to be a lot harder to do things like that. Yeah, this. I have no idea what percentage of income my gym makes on parties and stuff, but I imagine it isn't too small a slice of the cake. They're also going to be restricting to members and punch card holders. So, no walk-ins off the street or whacky date nights. There goes another slice. Plus the bar and restaurant that operates out of the gym also relies on that traffic. The gym is open now just for their kids' camps, which I'm glad to hear about, and the restaurant has been doing takeout and then they were able to reopen their dining room last week. I just hope both businesses can stay afloat in the current situation(s). Not going to lie, I find the date night and birthday party set to be mildly irritating when I'm just trying to get my workout on and go home, but I also want my gym to stay financially viable. And that's going to be a lot more difficult to accomplish.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 00:44
|
|
|
I have a long backpacking trip planned in 2021. I dont know if I'm going to start up at the gym again whenever they open, just so I can be super anxious about getting sick while struggling my way back to where I was in terms of climbing fitness and then as soon as I get there take months off and lose it again. I might not climb until the end of next year
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 00:46
|
|
|
Happiness Commando posted:I have a long backpacking trip planned in 2021. I dont know if I'm going to start up at the gym again whenever they open, just so I can be super anxious about getting sick while struggling my way back to where I was in terms of climbing fitness and then as soon as I get there take months off and lose it again. I might not climb until the end of next year Cool, where are you going? I had knee surgery in 2018, and last summer I did the CT (well...half. I got tendonitis probably because the knee wasn't rehabbed properly). So, two summers in a row off, for the most part. Some sporadic climbing occurred. I was surprised by how much I retained in terms of climbing fitness. Well, my hands went to poo poo, not gonna lie. Anyways taking breaks from climbing sucks but at least you have a very cool reason to skip it for a while, and it'll come back and you'll have cool stories to tell about your trip!
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 00:55
|
|
|
The PCT
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 05:55
|
|
|
So I'm exploring all the lesser known bouldering spots in my area and I get to this really great steep bouldering spot right next to the water and it's amazing in a million ways. But quite a few lines have stupid risky potential falls. Can't believe there's that much chalk on that line. I'd need a million cashpads to even think about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tt7Fe7_E1E0 I stick to safe-ish problems but it really amaze me how often problems fall in the category of "if you fall you might never get up" category
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 18:47
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:So I'm exploring all the lesser known bouldering spots in my area and I get to this really great steep bouldering spot right next to the water and it's amazing in a million ways. Eh, I mean that looks like a V1 at most? Certainly you should consider your own personal safety and climb only where you feel comfortable, but that doesn't look particularly nasty to me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 19:24
|
|
|
armorer posted:Eh, I mean that looks like a V1 at most? Certainly you should consider your own personal safety and climb only where you feel comfortable, but that doesn't look particularly nasty to me. It's actually a V4 (it's pretty steep and the holds are not all as good as they might seem). It's also not the best kind of rock. I think it's been cleaned well over the yeras, but it's a type of rock that tends to "flake off". I think I found a video of someone doing it The end portion from 5:49 and after is all just slightly to the right of the death spike.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z33MbkbtOkY&t=304s If you climb v8-9 and this is a warm up then it might seem fine I guess. Still not sure I'd do a V0 in those conditions. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jun 5, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 19:51
|
|
|
Another Denver gym opens tomorrow. Limited to 50 people at a time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2020 05:05
|
|
|
Suicide Watch posted:What are people's thoughts on TR solo/self-belaying? Since it's looking like either gyms won't be open for a while, or you'll need to reserve your time thus making it hard to flexibly climb with partners, I'm thinking of picking up some ascenders and rigging up TR solo lines at the local crag after work for when I'm not feeling like only hangboarding. Anyway, does this mean I'm gonna die? Is the Micro Traxion the best device to use? Is doing laps boring and overrated, and TR solo only good for practicing for redpoints? Interested in seeing if anyone here has experience. Make sure you have a good knowledge base of rigging anchors and the system. I've seen some stupid dangerous setups in the wild. Like using a toothed device on a dynamic rope. Dynamic rope with no rebelays getting chewed up by a sharp edge. Gri with no backup and not even a weighted line (it will not catch). Some good resources: Dave McLeod on shunting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kd13IaWS8gQ I personally recommend NOT using a Shunt as you will die should you grab it in a fall, but the video has tons of good information. Petzl on TR setuo using two independant ropes: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing FB TR solo page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/RopeSolo There are a few great diagrams here listing all possible TR solo devices and their pros and cons. Yann Camus' Youtube page: https://www.youtube.com/user/ycamus TR solo can be a good way to practice your proj if your climbing partner flakes out on you in the last moment. Is it boring? You decide! You might miss the social aspect of climbing with friends. If you decide to go for a Micro Trax on a single line, make sure you have a good back up device and keep them separate. Most common method is to keep one high and connected to a chest harness, the other low and tight with a small mallion. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Jun 5, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2020 09:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 04:45 |
|
|
KingColliwog posted:It's actually a V4 (it's pretty steep and the holds are not all as good as they might seem). It's also not the best kind of rock. I think it's been cleaned well over the yeras, but it's a type of rock that tends to "flake off". Ah fair enough. It doesn't look V4 from the photos, but ain't that always the case? Still, I've seen both situations you mention: packs of boulderers out where everyone had a crash pad so they can pave the earth in foam, and strong folks warming up on spicy problems well below their grade.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2020 12:36
|
|