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Whatcha need is the number for your friendly neighborhood scrapper. My garage would be a wreck if I wasn't able to call him and leave all my metal poo poo by the road in boxes.
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May 30, 2020 15:51
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This too. My old mechanic has a scrapper that picks up everything for him. They don't ask each other any questions, he just leaves bins full of scrap outside, they get emptied 2-3x a week overnight.
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May 30, 2020 16:24
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We got a scrap metal guy that comes around here on a regular basis, but we (work) typically save our poo poo up and bring it to a local scrap metal place every so often. A few hundred pounds of steel isn't worth much but it'll buy a bunch of cases of water for working outside in the summer time.
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May 30, 2020 17:17
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2003 Civic Hybrid. I've noticed a smell of sulfur sometimes when I get of the car after driving. Any advice? I'm really hoping it's not the catalytic converter. I got that replaced something like a decade ago due to a recall, and I remember it would not have been cheap if it weren't for the recall. Wouldn't be surprised if a new converter is worth more than the car is at this point.
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May 31, 2020 04:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:2003 Civic Hybrid. I've noticed a smell of sulfur sometimes when I get of the car after driving. Any advice? I'm really hoping it's not the catalytic converter. I got that replaced something like a decade ago due to a recall, and I remember it would not have been cheap if it weren't for the recall. Wouldn't be surprised if a new converter is worth more than the car is at this point. That is a symptom of a dying cat. And yes, its probably more than the car is worth, but if you don’t need to pass inspection/emissions then just keep going.
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May 31, 2020 14:17
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Or just get an exhaust shop to weld a cheap replacement in, instead of getting an OEM one. It won't last as long, of course. Just wait until it throws the money light with a P0420 code though, assuming it's not already on (if it is on, whatever it's on for could be making it run rich, which could contribute to the smell).
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May 31, 2020 16:16
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No check engine light yet, or I'd've mentioned it. And yeah, given the age of the vehicle I don't think it's worth putting new components in. But honestly it's sounding like I should probably start shopping for a replacement vehicle, and get what money I can out of this one.
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May 31, 2020 16:51
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Have you changed which gas station you go to by any chance? How's the hybrid battery health? Are you running the gas engine more often?
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May 31, 2020 18:08
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No change in gas stations, but I have been driving less recently (big shocker there) so the gas in the tank is older. Dunno if that impacts anything. The hybrid battery seems fine. I got a reconditioned battery 5-6 years ago after the original one died. The '03 Civic Hybrid always runs the gas engine; the battery/motor just gives it a power boost for acceleration and hills. I have noticed my mileage degrade a bit; I now get around 35-38MPG on freeways, 30MPG in my (hilly) neighborhood. When I first got the car 12 years and 100k miles ago, I got more like 45-50MPG.
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May 31, 2020 19:04
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That's a pretty big decline, you're drat close to plain ol' Civic mileage now. IIRC my Civic would do about 38 highway, but a 96 was (probably) lighter. Hybrids typically get better city mileage vs highway too, so 30 city is downright poo poo.
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Jun 1, 2020 06:01
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That does depend on the city, my Ioniq gets around 42-47 in my hilly mostly 45mph area, and 60-68ish highway, so if 10 years ago you lived in a flatter area it might just be that for the local trips, that highway mileage though is terrible and there might be something wrong.
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Jun 3, 2020 04:35
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That was the first generation of Civic hybrid, that highway mileage is pretty normal for them. And to be honest, Honda's hybrids lag way behind Toyota when it comes to efficiency (Toyota has long been regarded as the gold standard, though other makers have really stepped up their game - like Hyundai). The one good thing about Honda hybrids over Toyota is you could still get 3 pedals and a stick with a lot of them, so you got something more fun to drive than a Prius while still getting better city mpg vs a regular Civic. Even the Insight and CR-Z, which were both hybrid-only, were available with 3 pedals. Highway mileage in most hybrids is going to be lower than the city mileage, simply because the gas engine is doing all the work at that point (until you find a hill), plus there's the extra weight of the hybrid system on top of that. You're also driving an Ioniq, which is leaps and bounds ahead of ~20 year old (design) early generation hybrid from every car maker - the mileage comparison really doesn't work too well in this case. The early Civic hybrids were essentially a Civic LX sedan with aluminum wheels, low rolling resistance tires, and a ~20 hp electric motor/generator shoved between the engine and transaxle, plus a heavy battery pack, and a smaller engine.. and it couldn't run on just battery power unless a very specific set of circumstances were met - the gas engine runs all the time. Even for their time, they really weren't very good hybrids. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 06:37
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I have 2017 Civic that is getting a lot less use due to quarantining. I haven't put gas in it since early March, and I'm just now down to a little less than 1/4 tank. I bought some of this for the next fill up: https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-fuel-stabilizer/ They don't really clarify if it is OK in turbo charged engines, does anyone know if it is safe for them?
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Jun 3, 2020 16:18
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STR posted:Even for their time, they really weren't very good hybrids. I feel obliged to leap to my car's defense here, in that I've driven it for 12 years, putting over 100k miles on it, with only routine maintenance and a couple of product recalls during that time. I'd guess my average mileage over that time is around 41-44MPG. It's not a great car now, but it's also almost old enough to vote. That said, I gather most of this is typical for Civics of the time anyway, so if you're just saying "the cost, battery weight, and reduced engine power weren't worth the improved mileage" that may well be a fair argument. I wish I could remember if I got my car smogged last year or two years ago, because that determines if I have 3 or 15 months to get it replaced...
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Jun 3, 2020 16:36
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CapMoron posted:I have 2017 Civic that is getting a lot less use due to quarantining. I haven't put gas in it since early March, and I'm just now down to a little less than 1/4 tank. It will be fine when you fill it up.
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Jun 3, 2020 17:22
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C-Bangin' it 
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I feel obliged to leap to my car's defense here, in that I've driven it for 12 years, putting over 100k miles on it, with only routine maintenance and a couple of product recalls during that time. I'd guess my average mileage over that time is around 41-44MPG. It's not a great car now, but it's also almost old enough to vote. Oh I wasn't knocking the reliability at all - they have typical Honda reliability, except Honda's hybrid batteries tend to not last as long as other makes (2nd hand info from friends who've owned hybrid Hondas long-term, then jumped over to Priuses). The technology they used just wasn't that great when compared to a Prius, same with the mileage. It's very much your second paragraph that nails what I was getting at. It was Honda's first mass-produced hybrid, IIRC. There's very few still on the road (I'd assume mostly because they moved on to newer hybrids and/or got severe sticker shock when the hybrid battery needed replacing), while you still see a handful of 1st gen Priuses on the road (and a shitload of 2nd gen). I don't even see many CR-Zs on the road anymore. They weren't exactly a hot seller to begin with, but they were sporty looking, and could be had with 3 pedals. Those have only been off of the market since the end of the 2016 model year (so.. roughly 4 years and maybe 1-2 months ago would be when the last one left the factory). Even those were rated below 40 mpg. CapMoron posted:I have 2017 Civic that is getting a lot less use due to quarantining. I haven't put gas in it since early March, and I'm just now down to a little less than 1/4 tank. It's fine for turbo motors, but unless you plan to take 2-3 months to use the next tank, there's no point in using Sta-Bil. Filling it up from 1/4 tank will be enough to dilute the slightly stale gas. If you do plan to take that long to use the next tank, then make sure to add the Sta-Bil at the gas station just before you fill it. That way the sloshing from the fill-up will mix it decently. Try to drive it at least once a week (I mean actually drive, not idle, even if it's just for 15 minutes around town) to keep any seals from drying out, otherwise once you start driving it again you may run into a bunch of oil leaks. That'll also keep your tires from flat spotting and keep the battery charged. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Jun 4, 2020 |
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Jun 4, 2020 14:07
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2004 XC90, automatic transmission Does the shifter mechanism physically do anything? Could it theoretically be replaced with the same electronics and some switches/electronics to satisfy the interlocks? I'm guessing it could even be replaced entirely with a special device designed to integrate into the canbus. Disclaimer: obviously it would be a big thing to do that and I'm more curious than standing here with a saw ready to do it.
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Jun 4, 2020 20:56
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taqueso posted:2004 XC90, automatic transmission First smartphone app/arduino transmission selector incoming
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Jun 5, 2020 00:32
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A poster here did an electronically controlled air shifter for his car over a decade ago, so first is long gone. For most automatics, even though a computer does most of the work today, there's still some valves that get physically actuated by the shifter. Also, the park pawl. You could easily handle shifting between individual gears electronically but you'll probably still need to move the shift shaft on the transmission to choose between PRND.
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Jun 5, 2020 01:48
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2010 Chevy Impala LS 3.5L Flex fuel I got my tire pressure monitoring sensors replaced about a year ago because one died and I just decided to replace them all (they were the factory sensors, I figured the others weren't far behind). Randomly now, my right front or left rear tire pressure sensor will lose connection which prompts the light and warning on the dash. After turning the car off for a short bit (15+ mins) and then back on, the tire monitoring system will work just fine again. I'm thinking maybe its the board that they connect or report to, but I'm not sure exactly what that is, or how to check it. Any help to get me started in the right direction would be appreciated.
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Jun 5, 2020 02:20
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Who replaced the sensors, and what did they replace them with? There are some really dubious quality ones on amazon and ebay. Did you get the old ones back?
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Jun 5, 2020 02:29
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I will admit, I didn't do my own due diligence and just went to Discount Tire. And no, I didn't get the old ones back. Because I didn't think I had any need for them.
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Jun 5, 2020 02:37
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Have someone check them. I have an autel TPMS tool, it can tell if the batteries are low in certain sensors. It also lets me program some of the dubious chinese ones. Since its the same two positions that give errors I would lean towards sensors, not the receiver. E: on your impala, its the remote keyless entry antenna and module that receives the signals from the tpms sensors.
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Jun 5, 2020 02:47
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Discount Tire is generally a good chain, but that doesn't mean they can't fail anyway.
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Jun 5, 2020 02:53
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I should add that sometimes it's one of the sensors, sometimes it's both, and sometimes they comeback during the drive and sometimes they don't. But powering down the car for a bit will always bring them back on start up. But I will see about getting the sensors checked. Thanks for the help!
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Jun 5, 2020 03:10
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MonkeyFit posted:I should add that sometimes it's one of the sensors, sometimes it's both, and sometimes they comeback during the drive and sometimes they don't. But powering down the car for a bit will always bring them back on start up. But I will see about getting the sensors checked. Thanks for the help! I’d call them up and explain what’s happening. They were pretty accommodating when I had some issues with their workmanship.
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Jun 5, 2020 04:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:A poster here did an electronically controlled air shifter for his car over a decade ago, so first is long gone. Oh I don't care about first, it just takes up so much room and I was thinking about making a new console that isn't designed to hold CDs. It'd be nice to extend it further. But, I looked closer and it absolutely does have cables it pulls on to control the transmission. So probably not really worth considering.
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Jun 5, 2020 04:38
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We got hired by an autonomous vehicle company to make a Lexus "shift" itself into gear (didn't work), so they ended up removing the whole shifter, putting in push buttons, and using a massive electronic actuator to move pull the cable into the correct position. They were able to remove the shift lever itself, but all the space underneath was still eaten up by all the custom hardware. Definitely didn't add extra storage. (actually, the whole car had tons less storage because every cranny was crammed with electronics)
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Jun 5, 2020 06:24
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I mean... there's plenty of cars that have gone full electronic, but they're typically gonna be push button or knob shifters. I'm looking at you, Chrysler. Toyota also went full electronic in the early to mid 2000s on the Prius. But it's all controlled by the car electronics, you're gonna piss it off in a hurry if you modify anything.
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Jun 5, 2020 18:09
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I think they're going to be hesitant to change too much after the whole fiasco surrounding Anton Yelchin and that non-
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Jun 5, 2020 22:08
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You could look into how it was done in the old days, this is from an old 50's car which is very likely still pulling a cable, maybe you can figure out how they did it? Still probably not worth the time.
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Jun 6, 2020 01:44
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Maybe I missed it, is there a classic car thread? There is a very specific classic car I'm looking to buy and haven't found much on the interwebs.
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Jun 6, 2020 07:34
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2012 Mazda3, 2.0 engine. This follows up from my needing to jump the thing a couple weeks back. Car needed a jump, I jumped it, drove it around for a half hour, all was right in the world. Go to drive it again, the engine turns over, starts spinning (tach shows it almost getting up to idle), but then dies. There's a lot of corrosion on the battery that I thought might be loving with charging, so I cleaned it up. Give it a jump just now, and it started up, then just up and died after 30 seconds or so - not even enough time for me to remove the jumper cables. When I try to start it without the jump, it does the thing where it turns over and sounds promising but doesn't really get to idle. When it needed a jump before, it definitely needed the jump - the electrical systems of the car were weak, didn't even turn over, so I'm thinking this is a different problem but maybe related? Could I have hosed something up by draining the battery (that can hopefully be fixed easily at home?) Anything ideas before I call for a tow to my local garage would be appreciated.
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Jun 6, 2020 17:40
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vulturesrow posted:Maybe I missed it, is there a classic car thread? There is a very specific classic car I'm looking to buy and haven't found much on the interwebs.
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Jun 6, 2020 18:34
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vulturesrow posted:Maybe I missed it, is there a classic car thread? There is a very specific classic car I'm looking to buy and haven't found much on the interwebs. What kind of info are you looking for? If you just have a couple questions, throw them in here too.
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Jun 6, 2020 19:07
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Boxman posted:2012 Mazda3, 2.0 engine. Your battery is spanked and isn't enough to keep it running once jumped.
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Jun 6, 2020 19:18
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In my head once the car is running it didn’t need the battery, just coil power itself off the alternator I guess. But it makes sense the juice has to flow through the battery first. Battery is low cost compared to a tow and consult, will give it a try. Thanks for the reply.  Edit: no dice. New battery, same behavior. Boxman fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 6, 2020 19:25
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The alternator can only respond so quickly to power draw - modern cars are designed to use the battery for those surges. It's absolutely possible for a car with a toasted battery to not be able to run reliably. Running it long term with a poo poo battery is also bad for the alternator.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:29
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A bad wheel bearing will wobble when you get the car on a jackstand and try to push/pull it at the top/bottom, right? Is a few mm of movement okay, or is any movement no good? I think I might have a bad wheel bearing, but I'd like to at least attempt a diagnosis before taking it to the shop.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:57
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Any movement when you grab the wheel at 12 and 6 means the bearing is shot.
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Jun 6, 2020 21:26
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