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Yeah, with a milling machine you could perhaps mill it straight. Or if you are good with a file. But who knows if there are other issues to boot.
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Jun 2, 2020 09:44
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more falafel please posted:This is the thing, the reviews I read of the new sweetheart and Bailey line suggested that they were Pretty Good for mid/entry level, respectively. This is like, egregiously bad though, right? I'm not making up that this is a pile of iron that's literally unusable unless you're willing to file cast iron down to appropriate tolerances? Yeah it's bad and you should get your money back. Modern Stanley mostly makes 'tool-shaped objects' these days, and apparently their QC has really gotten bad. You can probably find an old one on ebay for relatively cheap. If you want to spend some real money the veritas one is awesome and the Lie-Nielsen is nice too, but I do prefer the veritas.
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Jun 2, 2020 13:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I haven't done diddly squat with that Chinese elm slab in months, but I did finally do some scribbling in Inkscape to try to come up with a leg form I liked. I would probably look at doing slip tenons for max gluing, but that may require your central column to be beefed up a bit. Alternatively, this construction looks similar to a a shaker candlestand base, which uses sliding dovetails and a spider for strength. You could probably skip the complexity of the dovetails for another method, then beef it up with a spider. Here's some commercial spiders https://www.horton-brasses.com/tablespiders.asp you may have to make your own as a commercial one may not suit the angles you have.
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Jun 2, 2020 15:11
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cakesmith handyman posted:Dowels instead of bolts? ...yeah, I guess that would work. I normally do mortise&tenon instead of dowels, but M&T doesn't work here because of the angles involved. Floating biscuits would have involved cutting across the grain on one of the pieces being joined, probably the leg, plus alignment would be a nightmare. Dowels aren't really any better grain-wise, but they do at least open the possibility of easy alignment: clamp everything together, drill through them, insert dowels, then put grain-matched plugs into the holes. I wonder how viable a giant sliding dovetail would be? It seems like cutting it properly would be a nightmare due to the compound angle...I guess the other problem is that it'd have to go across the grain on the center pillar, so that portion of the joint could snap off easily. Drat. EDIT: whoops, this slipped in while I was posting. Meow Meow Meow posted:I would probably look at doing slip tenons for max gluing, but that may require your central column to be beefed up a bit. Alternatively, this construction looks similar to a a shaker candlestand base, which uses sliding dovetails and a spider for strength. You could probably skip the complexity of the dovetails for another method, then beef it up with a spider. Thanks for the pointers! I'll look into that. Looks like the spider is basically a metal strap that connects the legs to the column. Makes sense, and it could be recessed into the underside to be completely invisible unless you turn the table upside-down. Regarding sliding dovetails, I was imagining the wrong kind of setup, clearly. I had the dovetails going across the face of the column, instead of being vertical. Vertical makes a ton more sense. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Jun 2, 2020 |
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Jun 2, 2020 15:13
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ImplicitAssembler posted:The amount of hard physical labour that he does on his own is amazing. https://northmen.com/en/about-us/wooden-house-project Physical work chat.
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Jun 2, 2020 15:25
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Any free or cheap programs it there that helps you draw out woodworking plans? The older free version of Sketchup is great Sketchup Make 2017 on this list: https://help.sketchup.com/en/downloading-older-versions https://www.filehorse.com/download-sketchup-make-64/old-versions/
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Jun 2, 2020 19:14
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Any free or cheap programs it there that helps you draw out woodworking plans? I used fusion 360 for a room I'm building
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Jun 2, 2020 21:17
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Seattle area goons, where do you get your wood? I’m looking for someplace that isn’t a big box store. I tried searching the thread, but couldn’t find what I thought I saw.
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Jun 3, 2020 00:10
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Jhet posted:Seattle area goons, where do you get your wood? I’m looking for someplace that isn’t a big box store. I tried searching the thread, but couldn’t find what I thought I saw. Crosscut hardwoods down in The Industrial District is fantastic, but last I checked they are only open during the week. There is Edensaw over in Port Townsend and Tacoma I think, but I’ve never visited them.
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Jun 3, 2020 01:50
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Jhet posted:Seattle area goons, where do you get your wood? I’m looking for someplace that isn’t a big box store. I tried searching the thread, but couldn’t find what I thought I saw. From the news it seems like you can wait and get some plywood off the front of a lot of buildings
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Jun 3, 2020 01:59
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Made some sawhorses today, I feel pretty accomplished e: for a blurry picture 
The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 02:57
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Falco posted:Crosscut hardwoods down in The Industrial District is fantastic, but last I checked they are only open during the week. There is Edensaw over in Port Townsend and Tacoma I think, but I’ve never visited them. That’s what I needed. Crosscut should do the trick. It’s easier for me to find time during the week anyway. Tacoma would be a bit of a drive.
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Jun 3, 2020 04:31
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My mom retired this last week and has a thing for Sun's so I tried my hand at carving. It's Paduk and Leopardwoood. I wish I had time to have recessed the hinges but she loved it. 
The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 08:51
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Need some advice on a door. I built a woodshed a while back that also serves as a sort of privacy fence for a hot tub behind it. Thus the door also needs to provide some privacy.  That's all pressure treated wood. I built a door out of the pressure treated 2x4 frame you see there and had runs of PT 1x6 spaced apart nailed to each side with a gap inbetween them that was closed on the opposide side of the 2x4. This worked but failed rapidly for 2 reasons. 1. I didn't account for the weight and add proper joinery and the whole door promptly began to sag once hung. 2. The door itself is heavy as gently caress, something near 100lbs and just unnecessary. So. I want to build another door, it just needs to provide privacy and be wide enough to latch to a post not yet installed on the opposite side of the walkway between the woodshed and the house. It's going to be painted, so it doesn't need to be the heavier PT wood. What materials would you suggest / design to use here? I have 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 ply (all interior grade) and I have non-PT 2x4s. The door can sit well off the ground and the rough dimensions are 6' tall and about 30" wide. Should I just build a non PT 2x4 frame like above with better joinery / reinforcements and then tack on some 1/4 ply to one side and call it a day? It's hidden at the back of the house and will be painted to match the woodshed so I'm not looking for anything to be incredibly beautiful.
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Jun 3, 2020 14:37
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1/4" ply ought to work, yeah, but it'll need to be painted or otherwise sealed, unless it's pressure-treated. You could also buy a 4'x8' panel of siding, which is similar but maybe aesthetically a little nicer. The other thing you should do is put diagonal bracing on that door frame, going from the points closest to the hinges on the left, to the center, on the right. Sagging wants to pull the door down and puts uneven load on the hinges. At the moment the only thing that resists that is whatever fasteners you used to connect the crosspieces to the right vertical piece; I'm pretty sure if I grabbed that vertical piece and pulled I could rack the frame with maybe 20-40 pounds of force. The diagonal braces will counteract sagging by resisting attempts to turn the door into a parallelogram. In other words: triangles are strong, rectangles aren't.
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Jun 3, 2020 14:49
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1/4" ply is pretty easy for some animals to get through.. The Spookmaster posted:My mom retired this last week and has a thing for Sun's so I tried my hand at carving. It's Paduk and Leopardwoood. I wish I had time to have recessed the hinges but she loved it. Beautiful. Did you gouge the top to get that recess? I love the swooping curve down on the top that shows where it hits the sides
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Jun 3, 2020 16:22
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That Works posted:The older free version of Sketchup is great Yeah, I thank god that I had a copy of the stand alone version rather than the horrible web "modern" free version. (I also run AutoCad and Chief Architect, but old sketchup is useful)
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Jun 3, 2020 16:32
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:1/4" ply is pretty easy for some animals to get through.. Yea I did the relief carving first and then used my awful harbor freight block plane to arch the top. Not pictured is the absurd amount of sanding to clean everything up. I kind of pulled the idea from this Wood Whisperer video. Except the front and back are half lapped around the bottom instead of it being one solid piece. Also I just came across this on my local Craigslist.  I think it's a Delta 28-276 but has a riser block ($80-$100) and what looks like the Kreg Fence and Kreg Miter Gauge He said he'd take $300 for it... Did I miss the part where the lower door opens each time you run it and punches you in the dick? The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jun 4, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 19:09
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Hasselblad posted:Yeah, I thank god that I had a copy of the stand alone version rather than the horrible web "modern" free version. Related question: what's the best resource to teach oneself SketchUp? Assume zero CAD experience (because I have none).
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Jun 4, 2020 01:52
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The Spookmaster posted:Yea I did the relief carving first and then used my awful harbor freight block plane to arch the top. Not pictured is the absurd amount of sanding to clean everything up. Looks to clean, and that backdrop for the photos? It's clearly a trap. I've bought a lot of those in the $100-200 range but always the older models and never anywhere near that clean. Does he have blades for it? Are the tires flat because he never turned it on and left it tensioned?
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Jun 4, 2020 02:48
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The Spookmaster posted:Did I miss the part where the lower door opens each time you run it and punches you in the dick? From the Deltas I have used that is pretty much guaranteed. All 3 of them had to have the lower doors taped shut.
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Jun 4, 2020 03:14
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The Spookmaster posted:Yea I did the relief carving first and then used my awful harbor freight block plane to arch the top. Not pictured is the absurd amount of sanding to clean everything up. Lovely work. That Delta Dickpuncher is a rare series. I think they have an accessory bungee restraint for it for an extra $199. JEEVES420 posted:From the Deltas I have used that is pretty much guaranteed. All 3 of them had to have the lower doors taped shut. Mine never has, but it's a real oldie, like Delta Milwaukee and has 2 screw knobs for each shroud. No way it works itself off.
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Jun 4, 2020 03:21
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Time to redo a few sections of my fence. Luckily the fence poles are metal so the hard part is done, just have to replace rails and pickets. What kind of wood should I go with?
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Jun 4, 2020 03:47
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Bob Mundon posted:Time to redo a few sections of my fence. Luckily the fence poles are metal so the hard part is done, just have to replace rails and pickets. What kind of wood should I go with? Mahogany
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Jun 4, 2020 04:02
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Bob Mundon posted:Time to redo a few sections of my fence. Luckily the fence poles are metal so the hard part is done, just have to replace rails and pickets. What kind of wood should I go with? Do you have more than 2 choices where you live? Its either the red (redwood/cedar) or the white(SPF) 
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Jun 4, 2020 04:08
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Bob Mundon posted:Time to redo a few sections of my fence. Luckily the fence poles are metal so the hard part is done, just have to replace rails and pickets. What kind of wood should I go with? Eastern redcedar/closet cedar is pretty rot resistant (at least the heartwood. Unfortunately there are squally streaks of sapwood in the heartwood) and also pretty cheap usually. Western redcedar may be cheaper from a lumberyard, depending on your area. I think you are in Texas so there is probably some good ole boy with a portable sawmill cutting eastern redcedar/ juniper like crazy. Otherwise PT pine or WRC or whatever tropical hardwood you feel like paying for.
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Jun 4, 2020 04:16
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The Spookmaster posted:Yea I did the relief carving first and then used my awful harbor freight block plane to arch the top. Not pictured is the absurd amount of sanding to clean everything up. drat, I would LOVE to have a bandsaw 
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Jun 4, 2020 05:20
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Admiralty Flag posted:Related question: what's the best resource to teach oneself SketchUp? Assume zero CAD experience (because I have none). Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjSE28T3u78 She's easy on the eyes to boot. (And also has a lot of introductory woodworking videos) Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jun 4, 2020 |
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Jun 4, 2020 05:21
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Just got an email from Sketchup, they are going 100% SaaS so download and backup your old classic installers.
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Jun 4, 2020 07:35
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I think they may already be there. When the Mere Mortals guy ran his tutorial I tried but when I opened the program it asked for a license. I got distracted so I never checked if there was a workaround.
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Jun 4, 2020 14:42
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savesthedayrocks posted:I think they may already be there. When the Mere Mortals guy ran his tutorial I tried but when I opened the program it asked for a license. I got distracted so I never checked if there was a workaround. Are you running 2017 Make? What specifically are you seeing on screen? My splash screen shows the "Sketchup isn't getting any younger" blurb with "Free Pro Trial" and "Try Sketchup Free" buttons, but down in the lower right is "Start Using Sketchup", which is what I launch with.
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Jun 4, 2020 14:52
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Yeah, totally missed the button on the bottom right. I just saw the “14 days left” and closed the laptop.
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Jun 5, 2020 04:23
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Admiralty Flag posted:Related question: what's the best resource to teach oneself SketchUp? Assume zero CAD experience (because I have none). I used this. Takes about an hour or two to go through all the lessons, and it's a tad out of date with the latest SketchUp software, but it's been good enough for me. https://sketchupforwoodworkers.com/
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Jun 5, 2020 13:17
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The license on my .3mm 4H mechanical pencil, t-square and scale has never expired  But man I really need to get back on my 'learn CAD' project because making changes sucks when you draft by hand and it's so easy in CAD
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Jun 5, 2020 13:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The license on my .3mm 4H mechanical pencil, t-square and scale has never expired I started using tracing paper because of this. I like CAD but I'm faster at putting ideas on paper.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:I started using tracing paper because of this. With just a little work it will be the complete opposite.
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Jun 5, 2020 14:21
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lol tracing paper, lol rulers Just scrawl poo poo in semi-legible pencil and then start working IMO
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Jun 5, 2020 20:10
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Leperflesh posted:lol tracing paper, lol rulers Oh I have pads and pads of things like that, but when I want to see how the scale of something will work without needing to be mm accurate then I cba busting out fusion360
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Jun 5, 2020 20:20
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I just called my local lumber yard to ask about plywood prices, and they said they had 3/4 Baltic Birch in 5x5 for about $60. Is that a decent price? Actually I can’t remember now if he said 49 or 59. For comparison the best sheet of plywood i can get at HD is about $55 for 4x8 with a thin veneer (not the same as Baltic) Elysium fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 20:30
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Elysium posted:I just called my local lumber yard to ask about plywood prices, and they said they had 3/4 Baltic Birch in 5x5 for about $60. Is that a decent price?
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Jun 5, 2020 20:37
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