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Motronic posted:Refer to my "it's literally easier and cheaper to re-rock" statement. Or you could be like my house and Chuck nasty walls over 1/4 sheetrock. While removing an unused and dangerous wall furnace (3 cracks in the exchanger) I learned our paneling is over 1/4 Sheetrock
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Jun 2, 2020 01:20
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Just cover it up with mediocre wall hangings/stick-ons.
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Jun 2, 2020 03:56
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peanut posted:Just cover it up with mediocre wall hangings/stick-ons. Enough "Live, Laugh, Love" hangings will make any house look nicer.
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Jun 2, 2020 14:40
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DrBouvenstein posted:Enough "Live, Laugh, Love" hangings will make any house look nicer. Yeah as little as zero of those has a tremendous impact.
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Jun 2, 2020 15:08
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nm
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Jun 2, 2020 |
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Jun 2, 2020 17:05
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The shower remodel is on-going, so thanks to everyone (and particularly AFewBricksShy) who provided feedback! I did have another question about grout sealants. We had originally picked out a 13"x13" tile that had a pebble texture we liked for the shower floor, but I think it was going to be problematic to cut it into the small sizes needed for the shower floor, so instead we're looking at the pebbles on mosaic that get grouted in, such as this: https://www.flooranddecor.com/pebble-stone-decoratives/kayan-river-pebble-mosaic-100032523.html?rrec=true Since it's stone and I'm assuming since there's a lot of grout involved, I'm assuming a sealant would be ideal since it's recommended on the site and by the contractor. I've been looking up sealants and the impregnator sealants, and it seems like the best ones are solvent-based? My wife is pregnant and so I'd like to avoid exposing her to the solvents I saw listed in the SDS typically like xylene, toluene, etc.; I see that there are water-based sealants, but how well do they work for a shower floor application, and is there a best one typically recommended? My thought was to maybe do a water-based one for a year or two until she wouldn't be breast feeding anymore, then I could go with one of the solvent based ones. Edit: I should add, the grout is the Mapei Ultracolor Plus FA, which I now already has some water-resistant capabilities to it. Canned Sunshine fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jun 2, 2020 |
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Jun 2, 2020 22:31
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Our go to for sealing is Sealer's Choice Gold https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/aqua-mix/sealers/aqua-mix-sealer%E2%80%99s-choice-gold.aspx If we're just sealing grout, Aquamix Grout sealer is a bit cheaper https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/aqua-mix/sealers/aqua-mix-grout-sealer.aspx With that pebble tile, you might want to use an enhancer: https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/aqua-mix/enhancers/aqua-mix-enrich-n-seal.aspx Pretty much it will make the stone look wet (but not shiny), which can make the colors more vibrant. If you choose to do this, you're going to want to do a mockup first (take a sheet, set it on a scrap piece of backer, grout it, seal it) to make sure you will like the final result. It's a loving bear to get it off if you decide you don't like it. You can check the MSDS sheets on those websites. Ultracolor is already pretty stain resistant so if you would rather not use any of those, you're still probably pretty safe. Shower floors are tricky because of the oils and chemicals that are in soaps and shampoos. Outside of the shower I'd say don't even worry about it. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 14:16
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AFewBricksShy posted:Our go to for sealing is Sealer's Choice Gold Thanks! I had looked at the Sealer's Choice Gold as an option; I ended up picking up the Miracle 511 H2O-based sealer (https://www.flooranddecor.com/outdoor-installation-materials/miracle-511-h20-water-based-penetrating-sealer-100038405.html?rrec=true). Have you had any experience with it? I can still get the Sealer's Choice Gold since it'll be a few days before I have to apply the sealer.
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Jun 3, 2020 22:38
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Update on the Nest installation. Got it today, tried installing it. Unit would not come on, turns out it was shipped with 0 battery. Charged it for 30 minutes, tried installing it. There was indeed a blue cable rolled up behind the old thermostat, so I installed all the cables: y1, w1, g, rc, c. Unit then gives me error e73, that there is no power on the RC cable. Says to switch it to the Rh slot. I do it and get the same error. So maybe it was the C cable not connected to anything, so I remove the C cable and try again. This time it tells me that there's no power on the Y1 cable and gives me error e80. After a few hours reading up on the internet, here's the possibilities I have figured out, from what I hope the most to the least: 1- A few people on redditt said they had the same issue until they fully charged the unit via USB. The idea is that the C cable isn't connected to anything, the Rc cable only powers the unit when its on, and so fully charging it and then trying again, minus C cable, should do the trick. 2- While yanking around the cables, one of them got disconnected from the other end. Opening it and popping it back in should do the trick. 3- Messing around I crossed a wire somewhere and popped a fuse in the unit, and replacing it should fix it. 4- Bad back panel 5- The old unit was put together with spit and gum and nothing else other than the old thermostat would work. My next order of business is, in order: 1- letting it charge for two hours till fully charged and trying again 2- Opening the panel on the hvac itself to see if anything got disconnected 3- Going out tomorrow morning and getting a multimeter to test the cables 4- Calling the hvac maintenance guy for the building 5- calling nest for a replacement back panel 6- giving up and returning the unit
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Jun 4, 2020 01:30
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Be careful inside the HVAC unit. That poo poo is high voltage and can kill you if you're not careful. Sounds like you're on the right track though.
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Jun 4, 2020 01:39
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It was 1. Charging the base and not using the c cable did the trick. Edit: and I may actually spend more on power now because it turns out that my old thermostat was significantly underestimating temps in my house. What the old thermostat thought was 78 is actually closer to 81, and nest is more accurate there. joepinetree fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jun 4, 2020 |
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Jun 4, 2020 02:40
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SourKraut posted:Thanks! I had looked at the Sealer's Choice Gold as an option; I ended up picking up the Miracle 511 H2O-based sealer (https://www.flooranddecor.com/outdoor-installation-materials/miracle-511-h20-water-based-penetrating-sealer-100038405.html?rrec=true). Have you had any experience with it? I can still get the Sealer's Choice Gold since it'll be a few days before I have to apply the sealer. I've used 5.11's Porous Plus and it worked great, but I don't know that one specifically. You should be fine though.
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Jun 4, 2020 11:49
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Time to re-oil the deck, been a couple of years, maybe three since last time. I used my own mix last time and I am using it again Boiled linseed oil, pine tar, mineral spirits and some pigment for additional coloring, though it gets a pretty nice brown color just as is so entirely optional. 
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Jun 4, 2020 19:33
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His Divine Shadow posted:Time to re-oil the deck, been a couple of years, maybe three since last time. I used my own mix last time and I am using it again That looks great! As someone whose deck is looking pretty shabby, I'd love to learn more about your application...
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Jun 4, 2020 19:50
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Any opinions in this thread about what to seal a new cedar picket fence with? Oil based vs. water based? Should I rent a paint sprayer? I have probably 200+ linear feet of fence. I generally prefer natural wood vs a stain, but I'm not sure how sealed cedar ages-- since unsealed it turns gray.
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Jun 4, 2020 21:24
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MetaJew posted:Any opinions in this thread about what to seal a new cedar picket fence with? Oil based vs. water based? Should I rent a paint sprayer? I have probably 200+ linear feet of fence. Sealed it turns gray too, just slower if there's UV blocker in the finish.
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Jun 4, 2020 21:27
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wanna sit on that deck
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Jun 4, 2020 21:42
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Just got my first quote for replacing my electrical panel and upgrading it from a 100a to 200a: $2250, and about $150/ea for any new outlets I have run. Still gonna get two more quotes, but this seems in line with what it costs around here. Coworker just replaced their panel and upgraded to 150a and it was $1750 all in. Now the next question is: do I also have them put in an outlet so I can install a bidet?
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Jun 4, 2020 21:45
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Sirotan posted:Just got my first quote for replacing my electrical panel and upgrading it from a 100a to 200a: $2250, and about $150/ea for any new outlets I have run. Now is the time. Make sure you are buying a panel with plenty of spare space for things like a car charger or solar.
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Jun 5, 2020 01:07
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Hed posted:That looks great! As someone whose deck is looking pretty shabby, I'd love to learn more about your application... Just using a brush. A cheapo 4-6" brush, a tar brush won't be getting clean again so it's no use for anything else after you are done with it. Can wrap it in foil to stop it hardening, but not for 3 years.
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Jun 5, 2020 04:26
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His Divine Shadow posted:Just using a brush. A cheapo 4-6" brush, a tar brush won't be getting clean again so it's no use for anything else after you are done with it. Can wrap it in foil to stop it hardening, but not for 3 years. I thought this was in response to the bidet question.
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Jun 5, 2020 10:39
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Sirotan posted:Now the next question is: do I also have them put in an outlet so I can install a bidet? Yes. Get a nice one that keeps the seat warm in the winter and the little water tank room temperature year round.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:39
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Prior homeowner put in some ethernet cable which I'm using but they did not do a good job with the boxes. how am I supposed to mount these things correctly they don't hang up like this?
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Jun 5, 2020 13:48
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daslog posted:Prior homeowner put in some ethernet cable which I'm using but they did not do a good job with the boxes. how am I supposed to mount these things correctly they don't hang up like this? What's the issue specifically? I mean obviously the cover's hanging off, but what did they do that's preventing it from being put back on?
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Jun 5, 2020 13:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:What's the issue specifically? I mean obviously the cover's hanging off, but what did they do that's preventing it from being put back on? There doesn't seem to be a way to attach that cover to the metal box.
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Jun 5, 2020 14:08
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Anyone ever tried to paint a vinyl fence? Some places on the internet are suggesting that it's fine as long as you prime it and use appropriate paint (and rough up the surface if it's brand new), some that it's fine as long as you don't use a dark color, and some that it definitely shouldn't be done.
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Jun 5, 2020 14:22
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daslog posted:There doesn't seem to be a way to attach that cover to the metal box. Does that Plastic trim bit come off the top because that's where the screw holes would be, should screw into the box where those little tabs are with threaded holes
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Jun 5, 2020 14:25
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You can just make out the countersunk holes on the plastic cover. I'm guessing the screws are just missing, along with the top 1/3 of each gang's modular cover. That box should take either a #6-32 or #8-32 countersunk screw if you want to buy replacements.
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Jun 5, 2020 14:54
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tater_salad posted:Does that Plastic trim bit come off the top because that's where the screw holes would be, should screw into the box where those little tabs are with threaded holes No it doesn't come off. the cover does have holes, it's just that they don't line up with the box.
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Jun 5, 2020 14:59
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Then you need a cover that matches your box or a box that matches your cover
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Jun 5, 2020 15:06
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cakesmith handyman posted:Then you need a cover that matches your box or a box that matches your cover Yeah this is the answer unfortunately. Given the state of the cover I'd suggest the former. I guess you could make your own shim / adapter plate if you were so inclined.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:08
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Comedy option: glue gun
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Jun 5, 2020 15:08
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cakesmith handyman posted:Then you need a cover that matches your box or a And a low volt ring might even fit without removing the box with as far back as it's sitting.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:44
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Motronic posted:And a low volt ring might even fit without removing the box with as far back as it's sitting. Good idea. Thanks all
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Jun 5, 2020 15:56
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I ordered these cabinet soft-close mechanisms (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078H4CV97/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and now that I'm getting around to installing them, I'm finding that they've got too much tension even at the lowest setting to allow the door to close without pushing it shut. I tried mounting them both as close to the hinge as I could get, and also further along the door. Any ideas on how to adjust them so that they don't have quite as much force? I've been mounting them so that the face of the mechanism is flush with the back of the door, which is what you're supposed to do, but I guess I could set them back a few millimeters into the cabinet. That might be enough. It would require me sanding the lip of the mechanism though.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:18
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Tool chat: owners of reciprocating saws, how often do you actually use them? I want to pick up a new cordless drill and I can either pick up the drill only, drill with a couple batteries, or the drill in a combo with a reciprocating saw which would save me ~$80 off buying the saw separately. There is some demo in the future where I could probably use one, or I could also just borrow my mom's...
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Jun 5, 2020 22:26
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Sirotan posted:Tool chat: owners of reciprocating saws, how often do you actually use them? I want to pick up a new cordless drill and I can either pick up the drill only, drill with a couple batteries, or the drill in a combo with a reciprocating saw which would save me ~$80 off buying the saw separately. There is some demo in the future where I could probably use one, or I could also just borrow my mom's... I use mine all the fucken time. I got the m18 brushless milwaukee one and it owns.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:34
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Ghostnuke posted:I use mine all the fucken time. I got the m18 brushless milwaukee one and it owns. I own the Milwaukee M18 FUEL Hackzall (single handed sawzall) and it also loving owns. Can cut through anything I've thrown at it. Two by lumber, nails, metal, tree limbs, galvanized steel pipe, cast iron pipe, etc. poo poo owns and I love it. With that said I used to own the Milwaukee M12 Non-FUEL Hackzall and it was a bit anemic. Better than nothing but I also had an old corded Sawzall for bigger jobs like two-by lumber. So the devil is in the details with them.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:58
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Just refied down from a 30 year at 4.8 to a 15 year 3.1 and will ultimately save $30k. Just opened a bottle of red.
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Jun 5, 2020 23:04
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SpartanIvy posted:I own the Milwaukee M18 FUEL Hackzall (single handed sawzall) and it also loving owns. Can cut through anything I've thrown at it. Two by lumber, nails, metal, tree limbs, galvanized steel pipe, cast iron pipe, etc. poo poo owns and I love it. I've got a ton of the m18 FUEL line and every single one of them owns hard.
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Jun 5, 2020 23:10
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