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18mm (they don't do 19mm) 4x8' at my local is £73.20, so quick maffs that is 90 bux inc tax for BB/CP/LG quality. Pseudo-retail.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:44
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I made a little table for our outside covered porch. What's a good finish to put on it to help with being outside?
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Jun 5, 2020 21:00
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Elysium posted:I just called my local lumber yard to ask about plywood prices, and they said they had 3/4 Baltic Birch in 5x5 for about $60. Is that a decent price? Actually I can’t remember now if he said 49 or 59. I pay ~$48 for a 4x8 sheet. Like Kaiser said BB has gone up in the past few months. If you're not worried about finish or need complete sheets you can ask about damaged ones, sometimes they will have top/bottom of pallets with some strap damage, marked face, etc.
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Jun 5, 2020 21:38
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Not all baltic birch is identical, do keep that in mind. There is some lower quality stuff floating around out there.
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Jun 5, 2020 21:44
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I made a little table for our outside covered porch. What's a good finish to put on it to help with being outside? You have ~3 main options. -Heavy film finish that will last several years but need to be completely stripped and refinished when it eventually fails. -Oil finish that won't protect as much, and needs yearly (potentially) maintenance that is quite easy. Can be varying degrees of varnish to oil ratio and sort of tweak the level of protection, but not hugely. -No finish and just embrace the grey Water and UV exposure are the main thing that dictate how fast a finish needs to be repaired, and a fully covered porch will help a huuuge amount. I'm a proponent of oil finishes outdoors, especially when there's some sun protection. On a covered porch, I've typically used an oil varnish blend that soaks in deeply like tung oil finish or danish oil.
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Jun 5, 2020 21:47
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Leperflesh posted:lol tracing paper, lol rulers Why did you steal this off my desk
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Jun 5, 2020 21:57
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I can tell it’s not mine on account of the Liberian measurements. But that’s the only reason.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:14
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I've bought $1000 of tools to start making furniture for my new house in the basement. I've done a bookcase, planters, and floatings shelves so far with great results, just by watching youtube videos from Woodshop Diaries and Mere Mortals. As I think about working on my next few projects, I find myself wanting to learn to work at a higher quality than most of these Youtube channels instruct at, rather than just pocket hole lovely plywood together and caulk huge gaps from untuned saws/unsquared boxes, and sand stain poly to finish. What are the recommended instructionals these days (books/dvd/streaming/online classes/ whatever) to help slowly take my very low skill level to something slightly more fine.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:17
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Chris Salamone is not exactly instructional, he puts out build diaries, more or less, but his stuff is probably a good stepping stone from where you're at, maybe https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1V-DYqsaj764uBis9-UDug
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Jun 5, 2020 22:38
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First Time Caller posted:I've bought $1000 of tools to start making furniture for my new house in the basement. I've done a bookcase, planters, and floatings shelves so far with great results, just by watching youtube videos from Woodshop Diaries and Mere Mortals. As I think about working on my next few projects, I find myself wanting to learn to work at a higher quality than most of these Youtube channels instruct at, rather than just pocket hole lovely plywood together and caulk huge gaps from untuned saws/unsquared boxes, and sand stain poly to finish. If you don't mind the cost (~$150), The Weekend Woodworker is a great course. It might start at a bit of a lower level than where you're at, but it definitely helps with thinking about ways to plan out your work to fix little inconsistencies like you're talking about.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:48
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Just do what I do and spend four months building a shelf for a cat because you're simply not OK with the way the mitered corner trim isn't coming together perfectly flush and then a tiny sliver tore out when you were trying to fix it with your smallest hand plane and you just leave everything in the garage and ignore it for two weeks in a sulk because you don't want to have to peel off the part that is already glued on, until you finally figure out that you can change the angle of the miter in a highly specific kind of weird angle that makes it come together smoothly and nobody will ever notice that the corner is now 2 degrees off from perfectly vertical. This is the "fine woodworking experience".
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Jun 5, 2020 23:02
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I made a little table for our outside covered porch. What's a good finish to put on it to help with being outside? At the risk of being excommunicated, paint?
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Jun 5, 2020 23:25
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First Time Caller posted:I've bought $1000 of tools to start making furniture for my new house in the basement. I've done a bookcase, planters, and floatings shelves so far with great results, just by watching youtube videos from Woodshop Diaries and Mere Mortals. As I think about working on my next few projects, I find myself wanting to learn to work at a higher quality than most of these Youtube channels instruct at, rather than just pocket hole lovely plywood together and caulk huge gaps from untuned saws/unsquared boxes, and sand stain poly to finish. What are your ideas for your next few projects? I think learning new skills and techniques is a lot like buying new tools-gear up and study up towards the project you want to do next. Want to make a Windsor chair? Time to learn about turning and staked joinery and steam bending. Want to build a bunch of dressers? Time to learn to build drawers and dovetail. Federal card table? Better learn to veneer and do inlay etc etc. Olothreutes posted:At the risk of being excommunicated, paint?
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Jun 5, 2020 23:54
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Leperflesh posted:Just do what I do and spend four months building a shelf for a cat because you're simply not OK with the way the mitered corner trim isn't coming together perfectly flush and then a tiny sliver tore out when you were trying to fix it with your smallest hand plane and you just leave everything in the garage and ignore it for two weeks in a sulk because you don't want to have to peel off the part that is already glued on, until you finally figure out that you can change the angle of the miter in a highly specific kind of weird angle that makes it come together smoothly and nobody will ever notice that the corner is now 2 degrees off from perfectly vertical. God drat it get out of my head
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Jun 6, 2020 00:10
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Elysium posted:I just called my local lumber yard to ask about plywood prices, and they said they had 3/4 Baltic Birch in 5x5 for about $60. Is that a decent price? Actually I can’t remember now if he said 49 or 59. Looks good to me, but it depends on your location and the quality. My lumber yard of choice (hardwood & cabinetry specialist) has 5x5 sheets of 1/2" baltic birch for like $38 for a 5x5 (~$1.50/ft^2) and 4x8 sheets for $90 ($~2.80/ft^2). I think they do 3/4" for about the same as what you got quoted. I've used both (same machines, cutting tools, setups, toolpaths, feeds/speeds, etc.), and I can say that the results from the more expensive stuff are *vastly* superior. Far less tear-out, better surface finish, much less directionality to the edge finish. e: this is in the bay area, so probably towards the high end of the price spectrum HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 6, 2020 00:50
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Olothreutes posted:At the risk of being excommunicated, paint? Sure linseed oil paint.
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Jun 6, 2020 07:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:Sure linseed oil paint. If you want something that will truly last forever, I recommend fire hydrant paint. I spent a summer in high school repainting fire hydrants for the county, that poo poo will never come off.
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Jun 6, 2020 08:45
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Yeah but the question is if that kind of barrier sealant is good for the wood, moisture always finds it's way in through cracks and missed spots but can't get out again. That's why I prefer oil based solutions over film barriers. Linseed oil paint can be easily bettered without having to remove the old paint, though one can scuff it a little if one wants. I guess in a dry climate it's not the same, there it's UV you gotta worry about.
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Jun 6, 2020 09:13
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Yeah I wouldn't be worried about moisture problems here, we had a whopping 10% humidity today. But our UV exposure is insane. Also I don't actually recommend fire hydrant paint. It's expensive and the color selection is, uh, limited. It will survive 3+ years with no maintenance exposed to the weather though.
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Jun 6, 2020 09:17
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Olothreutes posted:If you want something that will truly last forever, I recommend fire hydrant paint. I spent a summer in high school repainting fire hydrants for the county, that poo poo will never come off. Yet they needed repainted.  One of the things I recall about 1976, is that all of the fire hydrants were pained as revolutionary soldiers. Was a groovy time to be alive.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:52
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Hasselblad posted:Yet they needed repainted. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to reply to this as though it's serious? But the conditions for a fire hydrant in upstate NY, in one of the snowiest cities in the US, are very different from a table on a covered patio. Also fire hydrants, by necessity of their function, live in high traffic areas and near roads and are in the weather 100% of the time. You repaint them because they have minimum required visibility and the accumulation of grime, salt, and mechanical damage from gravel or whatever means the paint gets chipped or covered. It takes a steel wire brush to get some of that grime off, which also removes paint. Hydrants that were in very low traffic areas like minor rural roads or whatever didn't get repainted as frequently as the ones on major roads. I don't fully get the hatred for paint on something like pine you bought at home depot, I wouldn't paint over tropical hardwood or something though. Also I learned that linseed oil paint is a thing because of all this, which is cool.
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Jun 6, 2020 21:31
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Olothreutes posted:I don't fully get the hatred for paint on something like pine you bought at home depot, I wouldn't paint over tropical hardwood or something though. Ahem, It was poplar from Lowes. I'll probably leave it bare - thanks for the suggestions!
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Jun 6, 2020 21:56
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Ahem, Linseed oil on poplar is pretty good and you can just reapply every year for cheap.
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Jun 6, 2020 23:01
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I've never done any real kind of woodworking but I've been wanting to learn how to make a simple shelf or table. I must have mentioned this around my SOs family because they got me a little three piece wood chisel set for christmas last year. I have no clue what to use these for. Quarantine has me thinking I'd like to build some small stands for my synths, like this. What other tools would I need for a little project like that? I have a drill/driver set and a basic hand saw for the yard, but I'd probably want something that could cut along a template, right? I don't have a dedicated space for like a whole rear end workshop and my garage doesn't have power running to it. I just have no clue where to begin. I would like to learn a new skill and also not buy a bunch of dumb overkill powertools, though getting new powertools is pretty cool.
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Jun 6, 2020 23:21
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That Works posted:Linseed oil on poplar is pretty good and you can just reapply every year for cheap. Any oil paint; idk if what Kelly Moore or Sherwin Williams carry is linseed oil based or not. And latex has come a long way too. I'd paint poplar because it'll warp in sunlight.
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Jun 7, 2020 00:05
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Bought a couple of rusty hand planes a while ago and just now got around to cleaning them. Gonna give the Stanley a paint-over, but other than that I'm satisfied how they came out. At some point I'll want to replace the plastic handles...  (Memo was a Swedish knock-off brand, producing decent but still slightly inferior Stanley copies).
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Jun 7, 2020 13:15
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Olothreutes posted:I'm not sure if I'm supposed to reply to this as though it's serious? No?
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Jun 7, 2020 17:54
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I liked the fire hydrant lesson  anatomi posted:Bought a couple of rusty hand planes a while ago and just now got around to cleaning them. Gonna give the Stanley a paint-over, but other than that I'm satisfied how they came out. At some point I'll want to replace the plastic handles... Whoa those look really great
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Jun 7, 2020 17:54
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Stan Taylor posted:I've never done any real kind of woodworking but I've been wanting to learn how to make a simple shelf or table. I must have mentioned this around my SOs family because they got me a little three piece wood chisel set for christmas last year. I have no clue what to use these for. Quarantine has me thinking I'd like to build some small stands for my synths, like this. What other tools would I need for a little project like that? I have a drill/driver set and a basic hand saw for the yard, but I'd probably want something that could cut along a template, right? I don't have a dedicated space for like a whole rear end workshop and my garage doesn't have power running to it. I just have no clue where to begin. I would like to learn a new skill and also not buy a bunch of dumb overkill powertools, though getting new powertools is pretty cool. Not sure what kind of hand saw you have but it might work. A circular saw and a hand drill can make a stand like that and won't take up much space if you have a good table and you're careful about how you work. A tablesaw or bandsaw would work better but obviously they take up dedicated space while a circular saw is a (powered) hand tool. You'll need something to sand the corners and edges round to get it just like their's but you can do that by hand if you are patient. Chisels are typically used for carving, creating grooves and rebates, or cleaning up edges or cuts. They're handy.
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Jun 7, 2020 18:16
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This might be a hot take to some but I think they would have more success doing that specific project with a jigsaw over a circular saw if they dont have much tool experience. Itll definitely have a more organic feel but they will hopefully be able to sand out any jigsaw inconsistency whereas a circular saw is less forgiving.
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Jun 7, 2020 18:20
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:This might be a hot take to some but I think they would have more success doing that specific project with a jigsaw over a circular saw if they dont have much tool experience. Itll definitely have a more organic feel but they will hopefully be able to sand out any jigsaw inconsistency whereas a circular saw is less forgiving. The little stand would probably be easier with a jigsaw, but I was figuring they also wanted to try making tables and shelves and a circular saw is a nicer for long straight cuts. I should have also said to go drop $20 at Harbor freight on clamps to hold everything while you cut it too.
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Jun 7, 2020 18:32
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The junk collector posted:The little stand would probably be easier with a jigsaw, but I was figuring they also wanted to try making tables and shelves and a circular saw is a nicer for long straight cuts. Oh yea long run circular saw will probably get way more use, and definitely buy clamps. All the clamps. Semantic satiation ahh
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Jun 7, 2020 18:39
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I definitely started my woodworking adventures (not documented on this site, thank god) using a jigsaw and oh my what I considered acceptable back then.. At least clamp a straight edge to use a fence. I sure didn't.
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Jun 7, 2020 18:52
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Whoa those look really great
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Jun 7, 2020 19:15
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Is this anything? There was a Grizzly 771 that went up for $900. Retail is $925... and it sold. I guess there is something be said for saving on taxes and shipping.
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Jun 8, 2020 01:00
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Elysium posted:Is this anything? Good deal imo, esp if you want a long fence. The cheapest delta add on fence alone is $200 and that one has the router table wing too.
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Jun 8, 2020 01:03
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Elysium posted:Is this anything? That looks a whole lot like my Delta, but it's a view of the back. The fence is excellent but what you have there is one that rides on a track on the front of the saw only, I don't see a rear track, so that affects rigidity a bit. From what we can see, the iron looks good. I paid half that for mine, a few years ago, but I got probably an unreasonably excellent deal. Are they throwing in any accessories? Also be aware that for older Deltas like that, you simply cannot get a new riving knife or splitter for it, they've been out of stock for a decade. So, you can try and find a used one, fabricate one yourself, or, use something like the MJ Splitter as a substitute. I find that works fine for me. But what I'm getting at is like: do they still have the splitter/knife that came with the saw? If so, that's definitely a plus. Anyway I think that price is just OK, assuming you only get what we see and it's in decent condition. But it's a solid dependable table saw. e I just noticed, it looks like someone made one of the side MDF inserts into a router table too? That's kinda cool. Make sure there's legs for that extension. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 02:14
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Leperflesh posted:That looks a whole lot like my Delta, but it's a view of the back. The fence is excellent but what you have there is one that rides on a track on the front of the saw only, I don't see a rear track, so that affects rigidity a bit. From what we can see, the iron looks good. I paid half that for mine, a few years ago, but I got probably an unreasonably excellent deal. Are they throwing in any accessories? Also be aware that for older Deltas like that, you simply cannot get a new riving knife or splitter for it, they've been out of stock for a decade. So, you can try and find a used one, fabricate one yourself, or, use something like the MJ Splitter as a substitute. I find that works fine for me. But what I'm getting at is like: do they still have the splitter/knife that came with the saw? If so, that's definitely a plus. I haven’t talked to the guy yet but it’s a typical Facebook marketplace post that barely says anything except that it runs on 220 and “router not included” I’m guessing he means the actual router and not the table insert but you never know. Is there like a 40 character limit on marketplace ads? It does not seem like it comes with a riving knife or splitter or any other stuff. Here are the other photos: https://imgur.com/a/CvL2BUh
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Jun 8, 2020 02:28
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Leperflesh posted:That looks a whole lot like my Delta, but it's a view of the back. The fence is excellent but what you have there is one that rides on a track on the front of the saw only, I don't see a rear track, so that affects rigidity a bit. From what we can see, the iron looks good. I paid half that for mine, a few years ago, but I got probably an unreasonably excellent deal. Are they throwing in any accessories? Also be aware that for older Deltas like that, you simply cannot get a new riving knife or splitter for it, they've been out of stock for a decade. So, you can try and find a used one, fabricate one yourself, or, use something like the MJ Splitter as a substitute. I find that works fine for me. But what I'm getting at is like: do they still have the splitter/knife that came with the saw? If so, that's definitely a plus. All Biesmeyer fences ride on the single front track. They changed the whole table saw game 50 years ago with that fence in terms of RC hair accuracy, which now nearly everyone copies. It doesn't affect rigidity at all. It's a decent deal for a saw.
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Jun 8, 2020 02:31
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Does anyone have a kobalt table saw? Mine is the KT10152 and the slides that move the fence have a lot of play, even with the fence lock lever engaged. If I bump the fence it can move a quarter inch on either end. Anyone know if this is fixable?
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Jun 8, 2020 12:51
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