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chrisgt posted:Put the new tires on my restored metro (i have mental problems)... I'm amazed you were able to find whitewalls in that size.
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Jun 3, 2020 02:37
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KakerMix posted:I see no mental problems in the slightest. You want a laugh? Look up the list price for that clock unit for a 70 series. Keep in mind that the only Aus delivered 70's that got the elusive dash clock were the RV specs in the HDJ/HZJ78/79 and the GXL's in the VDJ76/78/79, so theres a LOT of people who would want one https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=83910-60070 List price from a dealership in Australia is $538...
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Jun 3, 2020 14:14
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STR posted:
I do t recall having to pull the entire undertray on our Outback. I think there was a section that was separate or hinged just under the filter, at least for our H6. And mine is full of oil, too, from the passing cam covers.
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Jun 3, 2020 22:23
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Ferremit posted:You want a laugh? Look up the list price for that clock unit for a 70 series. Keep in mind that the only Aus delivered 70's that got the elusive dash clock were the RV specs in the HDJ/HZJ78/79 and the GXL's in the VDJ76/78/79, so theres a LOT of people who would want one What kind of display and how picky are people about them being 100% identical to stock? That looks trivially easy to duplicate if the back case can be plastic instead of steel, the display is some common VFD format, and it's not impossible to find a duplicate of that knob.
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Jun 4, 2020 10:01
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Darchangel posted:I do t recall having to pull the entire undertray on our Outback. I think there was a section that was separate or hinged just under the filter, at least for our H6. And mine is full of oil, too, from the passing cam covers. AT THE MOMENT, mine only seems to leak from the crank seals, and my transmission is dry after going hulk on the transmission filter. Valve covers are bone dry. It looks like they've leaked before (there's staining, but definitely cleaned up - like, hot tank cleaned up, not hit it with brake cleaner and a towel cleaned up), but it also looks like the engine may have been out before. The valves are tappy as hell, which suggests the heads may have been apart (with whoever reassembled them not setting the lash properly)... gonna guess that might be related to the timing belt not getting changed until it was ~13 years old and having a random shop do it.. or maybe just for head gaskets, who knows with this thing. I'm trying to find the VIN stamp on the engine (I know it's THERE, it's just hard to get at easily without a mirror) to confirm/deny that it's the original engine. I think it may have been hinged at one point, but that undertray was so beat up and sagging that it was easier to just get rid of it. I wanted to see where the leaks were coming from anyway, instead of it dripping off of the edge. I know it helps with airflow to a degree, but I think that's a lot more important on the H6. The 2.5 runs at a pretty solid 185 unless I'm really beating on it up a steep hill, and the radiator is a decent size vs the engine size. There is a leak on the front of the motor somewhere that's hitting the oil filter, but I'm not sure if that's just being flung off of the crank or not. It's not coming from the filter. Maybe one of the cam seals.  I should probably tear into the timing cover at this point anyway, simply because (a) it's a Gates kit going by the sticker (so who knows how long the idler and tensioner will last) (b) it's been 5 years since it was changed, though less than 20k miles (c) I don't like oil on my timing belts. The oil leaks have gone from "significant" to "a drop or two overnight" since going to high mileage oil, though...
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 6, 2020 08:39
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Put the driveshafts back in the zx2 and sold it to one of the local "u-pull-it" junkyards      
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Jun 6, 2020 15:45
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 Dearly beloved we are here today to mourn the passing of the second set of trunk body mounts in this 1963 Pontiac. Taken from us by the poor design decisions of engineers past, no really who designs a body mount with a hole facing the back of a wheel so it throws in mud and rocks? Going to use hockey pucks to space it and probably weld in a thick plate and have the bolt head be inside the trunk instead of a captive nut that just rusts loose. Places want $150 for a new set of the same lovely mounts.
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Jun 6, 2020 16:24
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About a year ago, I bought new tires for my C5. When I broke the car out this spring, after about a month, I started hearing a noise from the driver side front when I applied the brakes. I found it was the wheel weights on the inside of the wheel rubbing the caliper. I guess as the brakes have worn a bit, it's moved the position of the caliper in a bit. I took it back to the shop a second time, waited 2 hours, and it it still rubbed. Decided to go to another shop this time. Waited 2 hours, still rubs. Decided "gently caress it", and ordered stick on wheels weights. Looking at trading this in on a 13 Grand Sport anyway.
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Jun 6, 2020 16:35
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EvilBeard posted:About a year ago, I bought new tires for my C5. When I broke the car out this spring, after about a month, I started hearing a noise from the driver side front when I applied the brakes. I found it was the wheel weights on the inside of the wheel rubbing the caliper. I guess as the brakes have worn a bit, it's moved the position of the caliper in a bit. I took it back to the shop a second time, waited 2 hours, and it it still rubbed. Decided to go to another shop this time. Waited 2 hours, still rubs. Decided "gently caress it", and ordered stick on wheels weights. Looking at trading this in on a 13 Grand Sport anyway. Oh you didn't know? Wheel weights are "machine fit to size," just drive it down the interstate a while and it'll be mint.
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Jun 6, 2020 17:15
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Was hoping to walnut blast the 335i's intake valves, but the Saab has been making a rather crusty sound from the rear brakes. I believe the pads were swapped when I bought it a couple years ago, but no clue on the rotors. Saab being Saab, has three or four possible front rotor sizes and a couple different possible rear rotor sizes. Despite my 9-3 being the base "Linear" trim, it appears to have the 302mm front rotors, but not sure on the rears. I popped off the wheels to see if I could measure better (I think I just need to get them fully off since I don't have any calipers big enough to measure with them on the car). In the process of doing that, I noticed this:  I just installed the B4s last year:  There's yer problem:  Looks like the band clamp popped off at some point. Guess it's time to replace an axle.
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Jun 9, 2020 14:10
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New 9.3” Pontiac/Olds center section just arrived. Fed Ex guy was not impressed. Now have everything I need to put the rear end, rear disc brakes and suspension back on the car this weekend. Once that is done I will start putting the engine and trans in to work on firing it up for the first time since at least 1998.
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Jun 9, 2020 17:19
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Roommate's WRX. He's trading it in. Offered me the fairly nice double din Pioneer touchscreen head unit if I could "make it look like there's a radio in there" by 10am. No problem, I have the factory radio from my car, should plug right in! Well that's not really much of a surprise, given the subwoofer power cable ran through the doorframe from under the hood instead of through the firewall, and the amp to sub wiring was lamp cord. But still, damnit. Means trading it with a non-working radio. Hopefully they don't ding him on that. Or notice. Not shown: it was just shoved in there. Thankfully he had the original mounting bracket attached to his old head unit (not original), but it was a single DIN head unit with the typical Subaru double DIN bracket. Normally they put a pocket under it, but it was broken off. So I tried tearing into my car to get one of the pockets out (mine has the 3 DIN bracket that the Legacies/Outbacks of the era came with. Forgot what a pain in the rear end it is to get the ashtray bracket out (needed to remove the bezel), so I did the needful to fill the hole. Had to just cut the wires anyway, it's gonna need a new car-side plug for whatever poor bastard winds up with this thing.  Tried unmarrying the Accessport.  Fucker was never installed to begin with. No wonder this car ran like poo poo; it has larger injectors, larger turbo, headers, exhaust, intake, but on the stock tune... So if anyone in Texas sees this thing pop up anywhere...  Run. It's on the original timing belt, throws 20+ codes, and hasn't been registered in TX in over a decade. It's also smoking a bit and has an appetite for coolant. When I topped off the coolant a bit ago, I saw a very nice oily sheen. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 11, 2020 16:09
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Wash. Wash again. Clay. Polished as best I could, Waxed, and Waxed again. Still has some light swirls in it that I'll take another pass at next time its dirty.. and I found some small chips to repair so paint has been ordered.   Now time to tackle the interior after I run out for more leather cleaner and 303.....
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Jun 11, 2020 18:18
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STR posted:Roommate's WRX. He's trading it in. Offered me the fairly nice double din Pioneer touchscreen head unit if I could "make it look like there's a radio in there" by 10am. No problem, I have the factory radio from my car, should plug right in! lol. I have a stash of pockets and blanking plates form my days as a mobile electronics installer. That and a sheet of ABS have come in handy over the years. And a pile of removed factory plugs, though all of them are from 20+ years ago, now.
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Jun 11, 2020 19:16
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Digital_Jesus posted:Wash. Wash again. Clay. Polished as best I could, Waxed, and Waxed again. Still has some light swirls in it that I'll take another pass at next time its dirty.. and I found some small chips to repair so paint has been ordered. That is a fantastic color combo. I rarely see white stripes on light color cars.
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Jun 11, 2020 19:48
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Digital_Jesus posted:Wash. Wash again. Clay. Polished as best I could, Waxed, and Waxed again. Still has some light swirls in it that I'll take another pass at next time its dirty.. and I found some small chips to repair so paint has been ordered. That center stripe pinstriping rules.
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Jun 12, 2020 01:07
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Took it to a decent local muffler place and had them take out the resonator. Sounds great!
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Jun 12, 2020 01:10
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Replaced the idler pulleys and the serpentine belt on the Outback. Had a squealing noise that had been getting worse for a few weeks, checked the belt and spun all the things by hand and couldn't really isolate the problem so went with replacing the cheapest stuff first since my used to be a mechanic buddy thought it sounded like the idler pulleys. No squealing noise now (pretend I also posted a pic of the new belt on it). 
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Jun 12, 2020 01:41
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Darchangel posted:lol. I was pissed when I saw the wiring, but not entirely unsurprised. Though now that I've unraveled it a bit, I did find out everything was soldered... then had a single wrap of electrical tape. There was an attempt.... Also, dealer didn't give him any poo poo. It's going to auction anyway. If I'd had more notice, I would have hit up the junkyard and grabbed a car-side pigtail, so that it would at least have a working radio. He gave me his old head unit (which cost about as much as what he got on trade-in for his old car), a nice ~3-4 year old double DIN Pioneer w/DVD player, backup camera support, etc. I need to download a manual to figure out what the specs are, but it's a bit of an upgrade aside from losing aptX. fake edit: just looked it up, it's this. AppRadio support, which was awesome a few years ago, kinda dated now, but still cool to have. I was hoping to use the rear USB port to power my dashcam, but since there's only one port, I guess I'll be using that for the AppRadio stuff. His new ride is.... uh, boy racer to grandpa. He did have the WRX for 16 years though. He turns 40 this year...  2016 RX 350, AWD package (supposedly; I didn't see any badging showing AWD, but I haven't looked under it yet either EDIT: yeah it's AWD), 25k miles, 1 owner. Haven't ridden in it yet (saw it briefly when I left for work last night, couldn't even tell what color it was). It's NICE. And... they gave him ONE fob.  He's gonna have a heart attack when he finds out how much another fob will cost + programming (pushbutton start, haven't looked to see if there's an emergency keyhole hidden on the driver's door yet).edit: went out to check it out once he woke up.......... and it's been hit in the front.  found a bunch of paint runs on the front bumper, bumper doesn't quite line up. Hood hasn't been touched though, has OEM headlamp housings, both headlights are aimed perfectly going by a "flick on the lights in front of the garage door" eyeball, and I only found slight damage to one parking sensor. Whatever it was, it was probably pretty minor overall, but he may have been able to haggle a bit on that. Color match is drat good on the new bumper, but definitely not the OEM bumper. Paint job would be really good if it didn't have runs, the clear is excellent and the metal flake matches. If I hadn't noticed the runs and the bumper not quite lining up perfectly, I wouldn't have noticed, and I have a good eye for accident damage. No signs of a frame pull, all clips are there, hood has the VIN on it and hasn't been painted. The accident doesn't show up on Autocheck or Carfax, so it was likely repaired out of pocket.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 15:14
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Got tired of the old feel of it. Replaced it with this: 
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Jun 13, 2020 04:35
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 Replaced a coil pack. And 4 spark plugs. Coming home from work on Friday I noticed a bit of a stutter when I first put my foot down. The whole way home the old girl seemed down on power. I guess #2 cylinder coil pack decieded to give up the ghost. That'll be 100 dollarydoos thanks!
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Jun 13, 2020 15:15
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Received and installed the MTEC clutch pedal spring in my BRZ. Can't say I like it so far, feels too much like the stock spring, in that when I release the clutch pedal I don't know how its going to react 50% of the time. Will try it for a little while longer before deciding if I want to go back to no spring. Also I managed to lose the e-clip that holds the pin in so it could fall apart at any time until I get a replacement (though it will be just the same as having no spring so no big deal). Also I got tired of the glare from the stock silver bezels so I went mad JDM tyte:  (does it count as JDM if it came from Japan but is obviously for LHD?). They're from some low-spec overseas Toyota model and you can just order them from regular dealerships. I was considering a nicer one-piece fabric replacement like the recent 86s and some BRZs have, but these panels were less than 1/3 the cost so here we are. In actual upgrades I got new tires, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s in the stock (215/45R17) size.  I kind of wish I went with 225 width seeing how flush the tire is to the wheel and how much I have to parallel park. I'll manage though. After I took off my winters and put those on I went for a drive. Stopped at an automated car was since my car has not been washed in like six months.  Despite looking shiny the wash did a garbage job and I just ordered a bunch of stuff mentioned in the detailing thread.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:36
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DrChu posted:(does it count as JDM if it came from Japan but is obviously for LHD?). If the shipping label says Japan and it went through customs, you're good.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:43
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slothrop posted:
Could be worse, I discovered today the reason cylinder 2 on my 2000 Camry keeps tripping a misfire code is that the cylinder's compression is way down (90 instead of ~150 of all the others), and we just put new tires and new injectors in it. At least reman'd heads for this are only like ~300 but it's still going to be annoying to change it.
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Jun 15, 2020 04:13
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didn't the 5SFE suffer from piston rings getting stuck and getting massive blowby? I can't remember if it was that or the AZ or ZZ family engines
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Jun 15, 2020 07:36
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Sounds like a strong case for a good Seafoaming  On that subject, is Seafoam still ok in modern engines? Got a 2013 Accord and I know it has 11ty billion little sensors running it
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Jun 15, 2020 14:31
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Got to do wheel bearings on the driver's front of the truck this weekend, any guesses why?  I put 300ish miles on the truck going well over 70 the day before this happened, and never had any indication of there being a problem until it locked up pulling into my parents' driveway. I believe the cause was the lock washer tab snapping off and letting the adjusting nut spin, but there's enough damage I can't be positive. I have an extra lockwasher under the nut at the moment to space things back into undamaged threads, that'll let me drive it if I need to until I can get my hands on a new spindle.
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Jun 15, 2020 21:46
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well that's unsettling
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Jun 15, 2020 23:33
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What's the spindle look like?
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Jun 16, 2020 03:01
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DrChu posted:In actual upgrades I got new tires, Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s in the stock (215/45R17) size. Oh hey, from 215/45R17 stock to 225, you say  I killed my fronts fairly fast and the new ones are 225. I do absolutely love these tires, they're inexpensive and hit all the marks for perfect summer street tire.
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Jun 16, 2020 03:24
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I got some Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3s put on my wife's Civic. Her car has better tires than my car. 
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Jun 16, 2020 03:55
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Poisonlizard posted:What's the spindle look like? Considering everything that happened, not awful. But the threads are gone where the lock tab sits, allowing the washer to keep spinning, so a new one seems like cheap insurance
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Jun 16, 2020 20:49
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Being off on medical for 6 weeks has made me soft. I washed, polished, waxed, and sealed the car. I had to take a nap afterwards. Getting old is hell!
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Jun 17, 2020 00:29
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Did my first ever wrapping of silver trime into gloss black. Went pretty OK, but going to redo some of it that isn't perfect when looking close up. Really made the car look better though. Not a fan of silver/chrome trim on modern cars in general.
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Jun 17, 2020 15:12
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Went from this to this  I'm actually giving up a couple of features (HD Radio tuner, aptX support, dual rear USB ports - so my dashcam will need to find a new power source), but free is free. No telling if I'll stick with it; it's a 2015 Pioneer AVH-X4800BS with AppRadio support, coming from a 2018 Kenwood KDC-X702. I'd prefer an Android Auto head unit, and I've heard AppRadio has major issues with Android past Oreo, but my roommate gave me all of his stereo stuff from his old WRX (including a sealed box with a Fosgate amp and two proper Cerwin-Vega subs.. not the newer Chinese CV - they need new surrounds, but that should add some bump to the Brokeback). I just had to rip all of it out. He only got $500 for the WRX, he wasn't about to give them the stereo and subs/amp. Had to get a Micro Bypass for it - I'm not about to rip the center console out to wire it up to the parking brake. I'm not going to be watching movies on it, I just wanted to be able to get into the drat settings.
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Jun 21, 2020 06:59
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Nice upgrade. Also excellent music choice.
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Jun 21, 2020 20:46
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Bought some stuff for the 235 I'm building.
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Jun 21, 2020 22:40
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always be closing posted:Bought some stuff for the 235 I'm building. Fantastic score.
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Jun 22, 2020 02:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Nice upgrade. You said that with the last stereo too. (the first pic is from when I originally put the last one in) I intentionally used the same song when I took pictures, though.It's kind of a side-grade. I lost some features (HD Radio in particular), gained a touchscreen, lost, for the most part, song info while listening to the radio (it only shows a couple of words at a time), but also gained far, far better call quality. Weird that the Kenwood was a 2018 model that did aptX-HD, but had absolutely abhorrent call quality (horrible lag, I always had to ask people to repeat themselves, they had to ask me to repeat myself, etc). My mother thought I was just talking on the phone normally when I was using Bluetooth at city street speeds, until I hit a pothole and my keys started banging into the steering column (mic is currently on the gauge bezel). I'll probably toss the Kenwood into the AI marketplace thread soon. Have the original box, but I don't have the mounting cage, trim, or microphone. It's a nice head unit if you can get around it having terrible call quality. 3 sets of 4V preouts, 2 1.5A USB connectors, etc.
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Jun 22, 2020 04:36
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Finally got all of the parts I needed for the Saab. This all started because even though the pads have plenty of life left in them, the rotors themselves were crusty enough with rust on the inside they were starting to grind on the pads, especially in the rear. They were done some time before I bought the car, so I figured it was time.  I took off the wheels to get a look at what size rotors I needed to order (I guess there were 3 different possible fronts and 2 different possible rears on this car). It looked like the CV boot might have been leaking.  Given the age of the car and the fact I drive it in the winter, I figured I might as well replace both front CV axles. Also looked at the ball joint and it looked like it might be a little rough too. On the 9-3 that's not an individually replaceable piece. Given the age, I opted to replace both LCAs (are you sensing a theme?). Looked at the rear wheel bearings and they seemed like their days were numbered: https://i.imgur.com/mLQmGRV.gifv Play with sound for maximum effect. Decided to replace all wheel bearings and hub assemblies given the (say it with me!) age of the vehicle. So if you're keeping score: front and rear rotors and pads, two CV axles, two LCAs (I already replaced the shocks and struts with Bilstein B4s last year). I accidentally took my front caliper apart, because Saab decided having a weird two part caliper was the way to go up front:  There is no piston in that side I'm holding.  The rears came out by hand after getting the nuts off the hub assembly. The fronts needed the slide hammer. Which is honestly a bit therapeutic.  More transmission fluid than I was anticipating drained when I pulled out the driver's side CV axles. Maybe 1/2 - 1 liter. Decided to drain and swap the manual transmission fluid. That is for later this week, I have some Red Line on the way. It will be fun, because standard Saab procedure for draining the MTF is drop that one subframe rail. It can be done without removing that, I'll post pictures of that procedure when I do it. When it came time to do the rear brakes, I realized I do not have an appropriate brake compressor tool. Weirdly, I haven't usually had cars that needed one, or usually the trick of using pliers to rotate it back in works fine. It did not in this case. I did have a brake piston compressor though. So I put that in place, tightened a little bit, very carefully rotated the piston with a pair of channel locks (being extra careful to not grab or bind the boot).  A little bit of tightening and a little bit of turning and the piston was retracted in no time. Doing the fronts, the brake caliper brackets were an absolute bastard to get off. The 1/2 inch impact had to wail on the bolts for a good 10-15 seconds before they came loose. I wonder why?  Seriously? Who the hell puts red Loctite on brake caliper bracket bolts? Psychopaths, that's who. Putting the fronts back together, can you see what's wrong?  If you said I'm a dumbass and forgot to put on the dust shield with the hub, congratulations, you are smarted than I was.  Oooooh shiny.  Brembo rotors and pads installed and in place. I didn't even lose any set screws (for more than an hour). Won't be able to drive it until I replace the MTF, although it seems like it was overfilled. But other than that, all done!
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Jun 23, 2020 15:08
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