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Tortilla Maker posted:The OP was last updated in 2018. I mean Cat6 is 10G up to 50M. Cat6a is 10G up to 100M. Cat7 is 1G for >100M, 40G for <50M, and 100G for <15M. Do you think you’ll be investing meaningfully in 10G, 40G, or 100G hardware anytime soon? If prices is no object, you’re probably fine with Cat7. If you’re trying to future proof the poo poo of yourself, run fiber across the house and patch it to SPF+ modules at your switches. Most folks aren’t meaningfully saturating 1G networks so Cat6 is fine for most since it’ll transition nicely to 10G.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:51
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I agree with Dick Nipples. I just put aggregate switches in my upstairs and basement and use fiber through conduit to connect everything. Drops to the 1st floor are cat6 run up from the basement and top floor is down from the attic. It's all 1G now anyway but I don't see myself having a bunch of desktops all over the house with 10 gig cards like, ever. Seems odd to have your SAN more than a couple feet from your servers anyway, and what else would even need more than 10G?
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Jun 13, 2020 03:48
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Thinking of doing some network upgrades; looked at Dick Nipples' previous post and just want to make sure this sounds doable. 1,000 square foot house; modem is in the basement in one corner, bedrooms are in the other corner. My in-laws now live with my wife and I, plus her brother. So at any given time we have 5 cell phones, two PS4s (wired), a switch, my desktop (wired), my work laptop (wired), my macbook, two iPads, an Amazon Fire HD 10, and a couple streaming devices (NVIDIA Shield, etc) connected to the network. So, needless to say, a lot of devices on the network at once (though not always in use). We're about to switch over to WOW's Gigabit internet, and I have an SB8200 modem which supports Gigabit, so I am good there. We're considering just going with Sling for TV (my wife and her dad watch a lot of TV, but WOW no longer offers cable TV). That all being said, currently my wifi is being run via a Nighthawk R7000 -- it's done alright, but I'm noticing that it's being a little more flaky as of late. The wifi signal is dropping occasionally, and while it works fine for the most part, I bought it almost six years ago so it might be time to upgrade (and honestly I'd like to have better signal on the other end of the house where the bedrooms are). Would the Nest Wifi + 1 puck + a gigabit switch just be a good option in general? Should I go for two? I mean, I know the house isn't huge so I imagine the actual router being where it is (in this corner, under the living room) would let the other puck sit say, in our bedroom to cover that end of the house? Then I could just use the switch to plug in my desktop/work laptop/game consoles that I'd prefer to be hardwired.
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Jun 13, 2020 04:29
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Where do you have the Nighthawk R7000 positioned? Do you have ethernet from the basement modem to the ground floor?
fletcher fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 04:36
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Tensokuu posted:
Honestly, if you're wanting to hard-wire some stuff, it could be worth it to get something like the Orbi with the dedicated wireless backhaul since you have Gigabit. That said - I don't know a lot about the current Nest WiFi's so they might already do that?
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Jun 13, 2020 05:03
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fletcher posted:Where do you have the Nighthawk R7000 positioned? Do you have ethernet from the basement modem to the ground floor? Directly next to the modem (so, in one corner of the house). There's actually nothing on the ground floor of the house that's hardwired in; my office is in the basement as is my BIL's room, and we have the wired connections. Now admittedly I could probably try to centralize the R7000 more towards the middle of the basement to see if that helps, but I'd end up needing to rewire my hard connections with longer cables -- not that I couldn't do that, mind you. Bigger pain in the rear end is that I'd have to mount it on one of the wooden beams as my basement is unfurnished and there's not exactly a great place to put it over there that's not "sitting on top of the AC vents." Also, well, a lack of power plugs on that side of the house too -- they laid out the power in the basement poorly and the previous homeowner solved that by using those power plugs that you get that screw into light sockets. So I'd need to solve that issue too. Dick Nipples posted:Honestly, if you're wanting to hard-wire some stuff, it could be worth it to get something like the Orbi with the dedicated wireless backhaul since you have Gigabit. Orbi's not a bad price either, really. Well, depending on which setup you end up picking up. I can't quite tell if the Nest WiFi has a dedicated wireless backhaul, honestly. Likely not, if Orbi's comparison on their site is correct (I imagine it is, but at the same time of course they want to make themselves seem like the clear winner). I saw previously you suggested the RBK50. Were I to go that route, I imagine the two-pack would probably cover my needs? Tensokuu fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 05:39
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Dick Nipples posted:Honestly, if you're wanting to hard-wire some stuff, it could be worth it to get something like the Orbi with the dedicated wireless backhaul since you have Gigabit. Unfortunately, the current Nest WiFi's do not support wired backhaul, which was the exact reason I sold a set recently. Just wasn't a good fit for the layout of my parents house, ended up going with a Ubiquiti UDM & two FlexHD's instead. Nice little devices though, sounded really easy to setup from my Dad's feedback.
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Jun 13, 2020 05:46
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Tensokuu posted:Directly next to the modem (so, in one corner of the house). There's actually nothing on the ground floor of the house that's hardwired in; my office is in the basement as is my BIL's room, and we have the wired connections. Now admittedly I could probably try to centralize the R7000 more towards the middle of the basement to see if that helps, but I'd end up needing to rewire my hard connections with longer cables -- not that I couldn't do that, mind you. Bigger pain in the rear end is that I'd have to mount it on one of the wooden beams as my basement is unfurnished and there's not exactly a great place to put it over there that's not "sitting on top of the AC vents." Also, well, a lack of power plugs on that side of the house too -- they laid out the power in the basement poorly and the previous homeowner solved that by using those power plugs that you get that screw into light sockets. So I'd need to solve that issue too. Ya the two pack would totally be enough. My placement is two corners off the same floor opposite each other with walls. Then a third in the basement roughly right in the middle. Works pretty well for my needs.
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Jun 13, 2020 06:08
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If it were me I'd do Cat 7 now if it's going in the walls. We just bought a place that was built in 2004 and it's wired with Cat 5e and it's actually slower (getting about 600mbps to the home office) than our internet connection here (1.0gbps). Cat 5e had just come out three years earlier so I'm really glad they put it in. There is something to be said though, that most people very, very rarely saturate a 1gbps link. Valve won't let me download games from Steam at any faster than 250mbps, so I'm stuck waiting SEVEN minutes to download Counter-Strike: GO instead of 2  Anyways, it's 2020, compression is amazeballs now, you might need 40gbps at some point in the future but 20 years after the invention of cat 5e nobody seems to know what to do with 1gbps in the home even with 4k video so you're probably ok unless you become a professional hollywood video editor and want to work remote from home
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Jun 13, 2020 09:24
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I know that electronics eventually wear out, but what kind of timeline are we talking about? I've been having flaky internet issues the past week or so where it's like the connection gets sloppy as hell and eventually burns out. Like someone had a noise generator on the line and slowly turns the knob to full noise until nothing gets through. Then a few minutes later it comes back. My modem (SB6141) and router (RT-N66U) are both from 2013, is it time to replace them? How many hours should I expect out of network hardware? Both of these units probably have 60k+ hours on them, and since I'm in Florida probably a fair bit of too-close lightning strikes. I've checked with Comcast and they say everything is fine on their end (of course they do) but to send a tech out to check the wiring would cost me like $75 or something, which I could throw at new hardware instead. If new hardware doesn't fix the issue (or y'all tell me my current hardware should be fine) I'll just go ahead and run a new drop. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 12:09
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Are your neighbours having the same issues?
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Jun 13, 2020 12:27
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Thanks Ants posted:Are your neighbours having the same issues? The one across the street is not. That, unfortunately, is the sole sociable neighbor I have. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 12:53
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Beach Bum posted:I know that electronics eventually wear out, but what kind of timeline are we talking about? A friend of mine that has done a lot of electronics work and is a computer engineer by trade once told me that “weird issues with device” are very often power issues. He keeps a huge box of various AC adapters to try with electronics when they start getting flaky. I would start there. One of the things I do is keep extra hardware around to comparison test if I’m suspicious something is misbehaving. I’ve also got extra power adapters for some of the important stuff. TL;DR: Check you power source. Try new power adapters. Comparison test with another piece of hardware. Dirty power is real and can gently caress up SOHO appliances. E: since we’re at it, what’s your network layout? rufius fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 14:53
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just moved up to gigabit internet on xfinity, kind of regretting not buying something stronger than the ER-X for our home networking setup. What's a good step up to consider, keeping in mind comcast's gigabit is 1000/40 down/up so it's not full symmetric in the first place, but even with hwnat offloading enabled it seems i can top out around 500 combined Preferably it would also have a PoE passthrough port for the Unifi WAP, which should be fine for anything on our wireless network
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Jun 13, 2020 20:01
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What's the recommended stand alone gigabit capable cable modem? I have an Arris/Surfboard that maxes around 480 but I've seen mixed reviews on the higher end versions due to chipsets or something.
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Jun 13, 2020 20:39
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RME posted:just moved up to gigabit internet on xfinity, kind of regretting not buying something stronger than the ER-X for our home networking setup. What's a good step up to consider, keeping in mind comcast's gigabit is 1000/40 down/up so it's not full symmetric in the first place, but even with hwnat offloading enabled it seems i can top out around 500 combined Firmware version? Also, make sure you don't have some feature enabled that is disabling the offload. There should be a command you can run to check that.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:05
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RME posted:just moved up to gigabit internet on xfinity, kind of regretting not buying something stronger than the ER-X for our home networking setup. What's a good step up to consider, keeping in mind comcast's gigabit is 1000/40 down/up so it's not full symmetric in the first place, but even with hwnat offloading enabled it seems i can top out around 500 combined How are you testing? What does combined mean? In general, most places you would pull data from won’t let you pull much faster than 500mbps tops. Usually not more than 250mbps, never mind whatever QoS your ISP is applying on per connection speed. For example, try as I might, my downlink for Gigabit Fiber never breaks 600mbps I’m a speed test, however if I get enough things downloading I can get up to 880-920mbps which is about as good as can be expected from 1gbps fiber.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:06
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Hadlock posted:There is something to be said though, that most people very, very rarely saturate a 1gbps link. Valve won't let me download games from Steam at any faster than 250mbps, so I'm stuck waiting SEVEN minutes to download Counter-Strike: GO instead of 2 That's not Steam, your ISP is throttling you or not buying adequate upstream -- or your CPU's maxing out as it's decompressing the data. I can't quite hit 1gbit on a 4790k. 
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Jun 13, 2020 21:09
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KS posted:That's not Steam, your ISP is throttling you or not buying adequate upstream -- or your CPU's maxing out as it's decompressing the data. I can't quite hit 1gbit on a 4790k. Ya - I suspect in order to protect the health of the network and the influx of higher bandwidth plan subscribers, most Americans with better than 10mbps plans are getting throttled at some point. Whether that’s per-connection QoS or peak hours stuff. My downstream with CLink has been most affected. My upstream continues to hold strong at gigabit, but per-connection, my downlink is iffy for getting over 400mbps.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:20
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How common are on-net CDNs on US providers? I saw a presentation from BT a while back and at the time more than 40% of the total traffic they served to customers came from CDN providers like Akamai that were already inside the BT network.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:46
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Thanks Ants posted:How common are on-net CDNs on US providers? I saw a presentation from BT a while back and at the time more than 40% of the total traffic they served to customers came from CDN providers like Akamai that were already inside the BT network. At least the heaviest hitters like Netflix/HBO/Hulu/YouTube are in there. It’d be crippling otherwise. That said, I don’t have any sense at all for anything beyond those heavy hitters. That makes me wonder how many of the major Porn sites like PornHub are also in there. If the anecdata is to be believed, 80% or some bigger percentage of traffic on the Internet is Porn lol.
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Jun 13, 2020 22:54
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Very common. Netflix will pass out OCA caches to ISPs with >5 gbps of Netflix traffic. Google has GGC, Akamai has AANP if you do >10gbps. It's good for everybody. Weirdly no AWS CDN option.
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Jun 13, 2020 23:00
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KS posted:Very common. Netflix will pass out OCA caches to ISPs with >5 gbps of Netflix traffic. Google has GGC, Akamai has AANP if you do >10gbps. It's good for everybody. And akamai is way way more than you might expect. Most of your news, software distribution, etc runs over it. I remember finding out exactly where our local akamai cache was once when we hooked up to the university network for the first time at the k-12 school district I worked at. Downloads were  fast for updates. (This was 2003ish and we had just gotten a 45mbps connection.)
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Jun 13, 2020 23:08
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Dick Nipples posted:A friend of mine that has done a lot of electronics work and is a computer engineer by trade once told me that “weird issues with device” are very often power issues. Infrastructure Direct run from street box with two straight line connectors > SB6141 > NT-66U Devices (From NT-66U) Wired PC (Cat5E) Wireless Frigidaire Gallery 6000 Window AC IRobot Roomba 600-series robot vacuum Google Chromecast Ultra Samsung SM-G960U (Galaxy S9) I hadn't considered power. When I made a floating shelf for the modem/router I grabbed a power strip I've had for years to mount on the wall. Might swap it out for a new one, or better yet a good UPS so I can have internet when the power is out. Should really do a UPS anyway... I don't have any spare power supplies for the infrastructure, crap. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jun 14, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 23:56
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Beach Bum posted:Infrastructure Pretty simple setup. I’d start at power personally. If you’re willing to spend a few bucks, monoprice has various ac adapters: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2220 Might pick up a few that match stated voltage/amperage and look like they might fit. Other options - grab something like the Asus RT-68U or similar which aren’t *super* expensive but are solid routers. I have one of those as my backup. Mostly for comparison’s sake.
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Jun 14, 2020 00:02
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astral posted:Firmware version? Also, make sure you don't have some feature enabled that is disabling the offload. There should be a command you can run to check that. 1.10.7, close-ish to the newest non 2.X version, though I hear 2.x has stability issues Dick Nipples posted:How are you testing? What does combined mean? Yeah I just plugged directly in the router with a (admittedly pretty long) and tried a few speed tests, i expect most real sites to never really let you hit those wild speeds but I wanted to see how well the er-x could handle it, not sure if there's a better way to do that
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Jun 14, 2020 00:33
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RME posted:1.10.7, close-ish to the newest non 2.X version, though I hear 2.x has stability issues My method of testing has been: - queue big download on XBone - queue download on Steam - queue download on Battle.net - queue download of an ISO of a well known fast mirror Multiply the steam and battle.net download by number of laptops or desktops you can get in on the cause. If you get to >800mbps, you’re starting to hit your actual bandwidth limit. 940-950 mbps is the practical limit for WAN-to-LAN speeds.
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Jun 14, 2020 00:46
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RME posted:1.10.7, close-ish to the newest non 2.X version, though I hear 2.x has stability issues Upgrade to 1.10.11; there've been security vulnerabilities and a lot of fixes. As always, back up your config beforehand. Did you try the google fiber speed test? This is different from google's regular speed test.
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Jun 14, 2020 01:01
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Beach Bum posted:I know that electronics eventually wear out, but what kind of timeline are we talking about? Are you current on the RT-N66U's firmware? Amazingly, it looks like ASUS released a firmware as recently as November 2019.
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Jun 14, 2020 01:04
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astral posted:Are you current on the RT-N66U's firmware? Amazingly, it looks like ASUS released a firmware as recently as November 2019. Perhaps not, but I did update sometime last year. Ugh how did I miss that, I should know better!
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Jun 14, 2020 01:27
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astral posted:Are you current on the RT-N66U's firmware? Amazingly, it looks like ASUS released a firmware as recently as November 2019. There’s also an aftermarket firmware I have had good success with - Merlin WRT. It’s compatible with the N66U. It mostly opens up some power user options like forcing DNS-over-TLS.
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Jun 14, 2020 01:52
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Merlin for the original ac-66u is very old Edit: or the N version. I think they use a MIPS chipset
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Jun 14, 2020 02:29
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Dick Nipples posted:There’s also an aftermarket firmware I have had good success with - Merlin WRT. It’s compatible with the N66U. He dropped support for that, the AC66U, and some others a while back. There's someone on the SNB forums that maintains an earlier fork, but...
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Jun 14, 2020 02:33
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If it's the B1 revision though it's basically an ac68u I believe and can use that firmware.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:56
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Oh sad day re: Merlin WRT. Welp, I’ll shut up about that then.
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Jun 14, 2020 03:22
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astral posted:He dropped support for that, the AC66U, and some others a while back. There's someone on the SNB forums that maintains an earlier fork, but... john9527 latest release 5/27/2020
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Jun 14, 2020 03:41
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Dick Nipples posted:Oh sad day re: Merlin WRT. My ac68u is still well supported. I think all the supported ones are Broadcom / arm chipsets. There are several revisions of this with some being only 800mhz though.
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Jun 14, 2020 05:21
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This is a bit of a long shot but has anyone setup a PiVPN to work with a Synology NAS? I can connect fine using OpenVPN on my iPhone but when I try to connect the NAS it says the profile is invalid. Some searching would lead me to believe that Synology is running a really old version of OpenVPN.
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Jun 14, 2020 08:14
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Red_Fred posted:This is a bit of a long shot but has anyone setup a PiVPN to work with a Synology NAS? I can connect fine using OpenVPN on my iPhone but when I try to connect the NAS it says the profile is invalid. Never done what you’re asking but you might look into Entware for updates to stuff like that: https://entware.net
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Jun 14, 2020 16:20
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Beach Bum posted:Perhaps not, but I did update sometime last year. Ugh how did I miss that, I should know better! I was one version/iteration behind, 3.0.0.4.382.51640 vs -54641. Updating now, we'll see if my issues persist. Patch notes for the latest version only list "Fix[ed] a DDoS vulnerability". Still ordering that UPS, I suppose I'll go trawling for the thread I'm sure exists.
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Jun 14, 2020 17:38
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