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Shaocaholica posted:How dumb is putting 4 mSATA SSDs into a raid0? A single NVMe SSD would be faster so pretty dumb.
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# ? Jun 10, 2020 21:30 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 11:13 |
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ConanTheLibrarian posted:A single NVMe SSD would be faster so pretty dumb. This machine doesn't support NVMe booting. Can windows bootloader or some other bootloader live on a ACHI drive and then just point to a NVMe?
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# ? Jun 10, 2020 21:41 |
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Shaocaholica posted:This machine doesn't support NVMe booting. Can windows bootloader or some other bootloader live on a ACHI drive and then just point to a NVMe? I asked this before, and you can use Clover-EFI to accomplish this, but was told that it's not worth it for some reason.
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# ? Jun 10, 2020 22:52 |
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I guess its a catch-22 on how to load the NVMe driver if the driver is on the NVMe drive.
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# ? Jun 11, 2020 00:54 |
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Since NVMe drives are significantly faster than normal SATA SSDs, yet they seem to seldom be noticeably faster in use, then I doubt mSATA RAID would be worth the effort or expense.
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# ? Jun 11, 2020 01:12 |
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makere posted:I asked this before, and you can use Clover-EFI to accomplish this, but was told that it's not worth it for some reason. Because it's fragile and stupid and having your OS on an NVMe drive is pointless. The only major OS speedup you get with NVMe is faster boots from hibernate or quickboot (because the boot process is just sucking the hiberfil into ram). But a 3-stage boot process (clover-efi -> nvme bootstrap -> windows boot) eliminates that. Put your OS on the sata drive and the application that needs high-speed NVMe performance on the NVMe drive.
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# ? Jun 11, 2020 01:49 |
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I think my 7 year old 240GB Mushkin Chronos Deluxe is failing, but I'm not sure. The machine started hanging when navigating files in Explorer yesterday, and when clicking the start menu and trying to shut down. I clicked the start menu and it took 3-5 seconds to bring it up, then the same thing when clicking power>shut down. 3-5 second delay between action and response. I'll poke around on it some more when I get home today, but I'm looking at a replacement in the meantime. The machine is a 3770K on a P67 board. I'm looking at either another ~256GB or ~512GB as a replacement, and I'm seeing the cheaper Silicon Power drives on Newegg - are these good enough to rely on for a few years? This machine is mostly used for gaming and obviously is old hardware to begin with. The games are mostly installed on a (also probably going to be dead soon) 9 year old 1TB WD Black HDD, so my other thought was to just get a 2TB SSD and combine them, but I'm not really into the idea of dropping $200+ on this machine at this point. I might be willing to step up to the 1TB Silicon Power drive and just uninstall some stuff. I'll probably build a new machine in another year or two when there is hopefully a little less uncertainty in the world, but it would be nice to keep this dinosaur chugging along until then.
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 18:30 |
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sirbeefalot posted:I think my 7 year old 240GB Mushkin Chronos Deluxe is failing, but I'm not sure. The machine started hanging when navigating files in Explorer yesterday, and when clicking the start menu and trying to shut down. I clicked the start menu and it took 3-5 seconds to bring it up, then the same thing when clicking power>shut down. 3-5 second delay between action and response. #1 get crystaldiskinfo, if the drive is having read errors they'll be logged in smart #2 check event viewer to see if it's reporting drive errors or something else sirbeefalot posted:I'm seeing the cheaper Silicon Power drives on Newegg - are these good enough to rely on for a few years? Yeah, they're ok if price is your main concern. You can at least get warranty rmas from them. They use whatever nand they can get their hands on for cheap, so quality and performance can be a bit variable. If you're buying a 1TB drive I think they may or may not be worth the discount, at that point you're making an actual investment and an extra $10-15 for a high quality drive from a long-term brand might be worth it.
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 19:33 |
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The thread header recommends the Samsung 850 EVO. I'm replacing the hard drive on my Dell G5 5590 with an SSD. Crucial's compatibility page recommends their Crucial P2 500GB PCIe M.2 2280 SSD, stats of 500GB M.2 SSD • PCIe NVMe Gen 3 • 2,300 MB/s Read, 940 MB/s Write Is there a way to figure out what the equivalent Samsung 850 EVO is in form factor, or is it okay to just buy Crucial nowadays?
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 22:08 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:The thread header recommends the Samsung 850 EVO. I'm replacing the hard drive on my Dell G5 5590 with an SSD. Crucial's compatibility page recommends their Crucial P2 500GB PCIe M.2 2280 SSD, stats of 500GB M.2 SSD • PCIe NVMe Gen 3 • 2,300 MB/s Read, 940 MB/s Write Thread recommended drives is quite old. Samsung drives are still quality but overpriced compared to competition. If a 500gb drive is good enough space wise for you, the WD750 500gb is currently on sale at newegg and very good, slightly better than a P2. (A m.2 drive like that also don't have to replace the HDD -- you could have both. Though removing the spinny HDD will save battery.) If you want a bigger drive & to replace the HDD, good 1tb sata drives are the WD Blue 3d or crucial MX500.
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 22:23 |
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Klyith posted:Thread recommended drives is quite old. Samsung drives are still quality but overpriced compared to competition. How do I determine whether the WD750 will fit the laptop, or is the form factor extremely standard?
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 22:26 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I'm a bit confused -- the laptop only has two slots, one with the OS on an SSD and the hard drive. Does an m.2 drive daisy chain with the existing hard drive? Crucial P1 and WD750 are both M.2 form factor NVMe drives, they are completely incompatible with harddrives. If you want to replace the harddrive , any 2.5" SATA SSD will do, like the Crucial MX500
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 22:57 |
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Saukkis posted:Crucial P1 and WD750 are both M.2 form factor NVMe drives, they are completely incompatible with harddrives. If you want to replace the harddrive , any 2.5" SATA SSD will do, like the Crucial MX500 Aha! So Crucial was actually recommending I use the P1 to replace the existing SSD, not to replace the hard drive. Light dawns, thank you. And it turns out replacing the SSD is actually my use case, now I sit back and think about it.
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# ? Jun 12, 2020 23:47 |
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So does it matter what mSATA drive I get to hack in a 1.8" drive replacement for the slow SSD thats in my Lenovo X301? Pretty much all of them gonna perform the same?
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 05:43 |
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If it's gonna be an OS drive, try to find one that has DRAM on it and preferably isn't using QLC. Otherwise, yeah, I wouldn't worry all that much about performance metrics.
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 14:19 |
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Klyith posted:#1 get crystaldiskinfo, if the drive is having read errors they'll be logged in smart Thanks for the tips, unfortunately it's stuck at the initial Windows splash screen now. I'll try to mount it with another machine but I'm assuming it's toast.
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 14:33 |
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2TB ADATA Ultimate SU800 2.5" SSD is $205 + $10 GC at Newegg. Thinking about getting this since I have seen almost zero sales for 2TB SSD disks. It has DRAM and seems to review well. Anyone have experience with this brand/disk?
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 20:58 |
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Strong Sauce posted:2TB ADATA Ultimate SU800 2.5" SSD is $205 + $10 GC at Newegg. A number of people ITT have adata drives (and I don't own one myself but put one in my mom's laptop and one in a build for a friend). The SU800 is good and on the same tier as a WD Blue or MX500, I'd have no hesitation about getting it when it's cheaper than the 2 defaults.
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 21:15 |
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Yeah I forgot to mention that that the SSD review guy rated it well. My only worry was that the earlier version (128GB) of the SSD seemed iffy. Recent reviews seem good.
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 21:27 |
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Strong Sauce posted:Yeah I forgot to mention that that the SSD review guy rated it well. My only worry was that the earlier version (128GB) of the SSD seemed iffy. Recent reviews seem good. Tiny SSDs of most models are sucky, because they only have 1 flash chip and a minimal amount of SLC cache. SSD performance has a lot to do with spreading data across the flash chips so they can be accessed in parallel. If there were a 128gb version of a WD Blue and MX500 they'd suck too.
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 21:36 |
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Speaking of lovely tiny SSDs, does a generic OEM SSD that reports itself as Phison (model number I forgot here) 128GB crapping out from time to time sound at all surprising? It doesn't really to me. It just randomly disconnects from the notebook and then doesn't even show up in bios until a power cycle happens, surprisingly it doesn't lose any data, it just disconnects. She says it just causes programs to crash and then a BSOD pops up, and the notebook reboots into BIOS because it doesn't have any boot devices. It's the boot disk in my sister's notebook, making it kinda unreliable. I'm just gonna swap it for whatever 256 GB m.2 2280 looks likely to be good when she has €40 to spare. She has a 1.5 TB spinny disk in there for storage, so there's no need to go huge.
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# ? Jun 13, 2020 22:30 |
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Have you check that it just hasn't come lose somehow? I'm not well versed in how SSDs fail, but in other devices I'd say that sounds like a flaky connection.
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# ? Jun 14, 2020 03:29 |
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I'd agree with you, but It's an m.2 drive with the mounting screw still firmly in place. There's no physical space for it to move. And if it's the connector, that'd need a new motherboard to fix it. If replacing the SSD doesn't work, I'd have to look into putting Windows onto the storage drive and have it boot from there, but that's less than ideal.
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# ? Jun 14, 2020 11:27 |
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Im looking to add another stick to my motherboard. Im already running a 1tb inland premium (top link), but i saw a 2 tb from them with no reviews. Any insight on the 2 tb? https://www.microcenter.com/product/600422/inland-premium-1tb-ssd-3d-nand-m2-2280-pcie-nvme-30-x4-internal-solid-state-drive https://www.microcenter.com/product/621230/inland-professional-2tb-3d-qlc-nand-pcie-gen-3-x4-nvme-m2-internal-ssd
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# ? Jun 15, 2020 19:27 |
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It's twice the tee-bees, so it's twice as good! In all seriousness, the 2TB one is QLC vs the 1TB's TLC, and everything that comes with that distinction is likely heavily in play. That is, QLC is mostly fine, but starts choking if you're doing long sequential writes or fill it up. It'd be fine to run as a game/application drive.
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# ? Jun 15, 2020 20:42 |
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DrDork posted:It's twice the tee-bees, so it's twice as good! Thank you very much for the info!
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# ? Jun 15, 2020 21:07 |
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Is this the right thread to ask about enclosures. Is there a good budget choice for tb3 that has a few extra ports of usb I/o so I don't have to buy a separate dock/hub
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# ? Jun 16, 2020 18:19 |
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What kinda cow dung company makes you pay shipping for a RMA? Fuckin ADATA. Where did I even read the SX8200 was a good buy when I was building, I thought it was here
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 03:44 |
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codo27 posted:What kinda cow dung company makes you pay shipping for a RMA? Fuckin ADATA. Where did I even read the SX8200 was a good buy when I was building, I thought it was here Like, for you to mail it to them? All of them, that's pretty much the standard with the OEM parts market. I've seen stuff with the company paying for shipping but it's generally in cases where they've hosed up and are in PR damage control mode.
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 04:15 |
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Yeah, you pay to ship to them and they pay to ship to you is pretty standard practice.
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 06:26 |
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AverySpecialfriend posted:Is this the right thread to ask about enclosures. Is there a good budget choice for tb3 that has a few extra ports of usb I/o so I don't have to buy a separate dock/hub To be honest I've never seen an enclosure with bonus utility ports, let alone a TB3 one.
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 08:19 |
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I still think the big rich company oughta foot the bill. If fuckin Bezos will do it, everyone should. Backstory, I ordered the SX8200 nVMe as well as a WD Blue SATA m.2 for my new build, no 2.5 or 3.5" drives. Finished it May last year. It works, but never quite ran the way it should, particularly in relation to boot times. This old Toshiba Satellite from 2012 or something with a bargain kingston 120gb SSD boots faster. I wiped the whole thing and started fresh but it was the same. Not just too slow to boot but would like freeze and stutter when first arriving at login screen and loading programs. Plus on the second install, the ADATA toolbox software wouldn't even recognize the drive was one of theirs. Plus some of my Geforce game captures were coming out corrupted. Computer wouldn't boot at all sometimes, would light up but nothing on screen. And if it went to sleep for whatever reason, would get stuck in the same kinda limbo sometimes instead of waking up like it should. This whole time I had pinned all my issues on the RAM because while my board is on the QVL for the memory, the RAM is like one letter off from matching the QVL for the board. Booting with XMP enabled just results in a crash if it even gets to Windows (Which reminds me, cant see it being related but I have to try that again now that I have the ADATA drive removed). So I've had to just let my 3600mhz RAM run at 2133 this whole time. Not that that would cause slow boot or anything, just that I feel it must be faulty if it wont work at the advertised speed and the board has plenty of overhead for it. But I finally got around to just taking out the SX yesterday and installed Windows on the Blue, works much better now, as it should, where the SATA drive should be slower than the nVMe. Now I gotta ship that poo poo to the opposite corner of the continent and hope I dont get a lemon this time. I shoulda just got an Intel or Samsung.
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 14:58 |
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If it is a warranty RMA, the company should cover shipping. If it's a return for another reason, then the customer pays. Simple and fair. But with discount OEMs like ADATA it is pretty typical that they make you pay, unfortunately.
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 15:14 |
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I'm not saying I disagree, I'm just saying it's very normal. I don't remember a time I've had my shipping paid for, including by big rich companies like an IBM HDD a decade ago. Only with whole PCs like a Dell or something, where they'll mail you an empty box with a pre-paid label -- and I think most of the reason they do that is so things are packaged well and not destroyed in the mail. One reason that especially the parts market doesn't want to pay for shipping: a whole lot of RMA'd PC parts are actually just fine. Most of these companies operate on very low margins, and having no penalty at all for sending back half your PC would kinda ruin them. Paying for shipping is the encouragement that people eliminate user error and other failure possibilities before RMA'ing stuff. codo27 posted:I shoulda just got an Intel or Samsung. page back through the thread and you can read the story of a goon with a samsung ssd who gets some really bad service with claims of a counterfeit drive they're all poo poo
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 19:46 |
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codo27 posted:What kinda cow dung company makes you pay shipping for a RMA? Fuckin ADATA. Where did I even read the SX8200 was a good buy when I was building, I thought it was here The SX8200 is a good buy.
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# ? Jun 19, 2020 22:39 |
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Fame Douglas posted:The SX8200 is a good buy. Yup. It sucks that it sounds like you got a defective one, but there are defective Intel and Samsung drives, too, and you sure saved more than the $8 it'll cost to ship the ADATA one back considering that a Samsung 970 would easily be twice the price, if not more.
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# ? Jun 20, 2020 18:47 |
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If you complain hard enough, sometimes you can force the warranty department to give a pre-paid shipping label. I've done it before; best one I've done was with Viewsonic. I had them give me a pre-paid shipping label after I elevated my case to a supervisor to ship back a defective monitor when they initially wanted me to take care of shipping the unit out myself. I wasn't having any of that bullshit.
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# ? Jun 21, 2020 05:04 |
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Amazon can also afford paying for your shipping thanks to Prime subscriptions and sales volume, those OEMs don't have the same service contracts with postal services and the profit margins are thin since you bought from a third party retailer rather than direct.
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# ? Jun 21, 2020 06:04 |
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Last time I warranty claimed a Seagate they paid for a shipping label, and HDDs are much more expensive to ship around than M.2 SSDs.
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# ? Jun 21, 2020 22:25 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 11:13 |
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And approx 200% of Seagate's have to be RMAd
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# ? Jun 21, 2020 22:49 |