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McTinkerson posted:I'm neck deep in a Tamiya TT-02 Safari 911 build. Can confirm that the kits are so good and fun, you don't care that it's all plastic. I just finished a TT02! Only upgrade so far is ball bearings. Better shocks are on the shortlist but I think a new radio is gonna be the next big purchase. Gonna get something with model memory so I can just start buying extra receivers instead of moving mine around from car to car. 
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May 22, 2020 17:06
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Snowmankilla posted:Yeah. I need to decide if I A small crawler (SCX24) is the kind of thing you buy when you already have a bigger one. There is literally no space too big for a crawler. If you are using the stock "silver can" Tamiya motor that Hobbywing speed controller should work just fine. Crawlers do end up a little more than a lunchbox. They are both cool for different reasons. Honestly a crawler sounds like the best match for you. I am pretty happy with how that Jurassic body turned out. My most detailed paint job I have ever done. It was all done with rattle can spray pain too! I posted about it previously Boaz MacPhereson posted:I just finished a TT02! Only upgrade so far is ball bearings. Better shocks are on the shortlist but I think a new radio is gonna be the next big purchase. Gonna get something with model memory so I can just start buying extra receivers instead of moving mine around from car to car. Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 17:59 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 17:15
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e: nvm, old news
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May 23, 2020 18:33
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Somewhat Heroic posted:A small crawler (SCX24) is the kind of thing you buy when you already have a bigger one. There is literally no space too big for a crawler. If you are using the stock "silver can" Tamiya motor that Hobbywing speed controller should work just fine. Crawlers do end up a little more than a lunchbox. They are both cool for different reasons. Honestly a crawler sounds like the best match for you. Man, the Sand Scorcher just looks fun. I bet it'll do wheelies with a nice brushless setup.
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May 23, 2020 22:37
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Man, the Sand Scorcher just looks fun. I bet it'll do wheelies with a nice brushless setup. The rereleased LunchBox will pull a wheelie forever from a stop if you floor it. It even comes with a wheelie bar.
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May 24, 2020 02:15
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McTinkerson posted:The rereleased LunchBox will pull a wheelie forever from a stop if you floor it. It even comes with a wheelie bar. Can confirm the Lunchbox is fun as hell with a modern ESC and lipo battery.
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May 26, 2020 02:36
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
I've been thinking RC cars would be a fun hobby to get into with my son and after doing some research found this thread. That Jurassic Park jeep you built with your kiddo is awesome and exactly the kind of thing I had in mind. In your previous post you mentioned that it is a Vanquish Origin. A quick google search makes it look like it is a pretty expensive kit, unless I am looking at the wrong thing. What would be a decent kit to get us started to eventually work up to something like you guys built? I don't mind spending a little more, but don't want to drop tons of money on something we are trying out for the first time. Also, how technical is the build? Does it require pretty advanced techniques and tools or just the ability to follow directions? Thanks for this list, it's a good start!
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Jun 1, 2020 08:35
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It's been a couple decades since I've been able to build a kit, but I think the only tools you need when building are screwdrivers. Maybe some pliers or wrench to hold something while you fiddle with it. If you need to change connectors for electronics, then you may need a soldering iron. I believe instructions for kits are step-by-step while the instructions for ready to run vehicles are more like part assembly blowouts with little instruction or guidance. E: tbh, painting the body is more difficult and requires more techniques and possibly tools. e2: v derp, i completely forgot about allen drivers and socket wrenches Kibner fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 14:12
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You'll get a cross tool for the unusual nut sizes, and sometimes a lovely hex driver with your kit. Get good drivers (I like wera and wiha drivers with handles, MIP if you just want the bits to use with a *clutched* power tool). Any moron can put a kit together TBH, do check the "materials needed" in the manual as that'll tell you what consumables you need (shock oil, grease, etc). And if you're planning on building with a kid do watch a YT vid or two beforehand just to see if they run into anything stupid and blocking. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 14:45
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Granted I've pretty much only built Associated kits, with the combination of being built for racing with questionable tolerances, but I would also strongly recommend a good pair of snips and a small file to remove the inevitable bits of flashing.
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Jun 1, 2020 17:14
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Bruxism posted:I've been thinking RC cars would be a fun hobby to get into with my son and after doing some research found this thread. That Jurassic Park jeep you built with your kiddo is awesome and exactly the kind of thing I had in mind. In your previous post you mentioned that it is a Vanquish Origin. A quick google search makes it look like it is a pretty expensive kit, unless I am looking at the wrong thing. What would be a decent kit to get us started to eventually work up to something like you guys built? I don't mind spending a little more, but don't want to drop tons of money on something we are trying out for the first time. Also, how technical is the build? Does it require pretty advanced techniques and tools or just the ability to follow directions? Thanks for this list, it's a good start! The Origin is certainly not the level of kit anyone needs. I work in-industry and I am also a broke brained individual that usually goes for what excites me and the Origin definitely excites. You cannot go wrong at all with the Axial kits. The new SCX10III is a great place to start building. They are extremely nice out of the box, and super popular right now so they are back ordered many places. Element RC has their Enduro which is cool and has been met with mixed reviews but it does have some neat features. The Traxxas sport builders kit thing is hard to deny that is a very well put together machine that does essentially anything you want it to. For me it lacks a little soul and again - that is because I have been doing this for too long and have industry bias. Any of these kits would perform every bit as well as the Origin and will be a great experience for you and your kiddo. Building kits these days compared to a days past is a completely different experience. Things are so much easier, the manuals are laid out easy to follow. Open bag A for metal hardware bits. Cut off parts XYZ off of this parts tree. Assemble. Actual size drawings on the manual so you can lay the parts on the page to make sure that you are using the right screws and all, plus YouTube is available for anything else. Tools you will want, some nice hex tools. There are budget machined hex tools you can get for ~$30-40. Otherwise just normal stuff like #1 and #2 phillips, some needle nose pliers. Other specialty tools that are nice to have would be shock shaft pliers ($12 or something). Painting is the more tricky side of painting, but if you take time, and keep it simple then you can come up with a pretty good. On YouTube Chris of Hemistorm makes it look easy. The guys at Scale Builders Guild also make fabrication seem easy (it isn't) but you can get a ton of ideas there. Pick something up and let us know how you get on!
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Jun 1, 2020 20:19
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100% get JIS screwdrivers if you get anything Tamiya. I have this one and as a bonus I think it's actually nicer to use in normal phillips screws too: https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-D-332-100-Ball-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000W9N09M/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hozan+jis&qid=1591042523&s=hi&sr=1-4
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Jun 1, 2020 21:15
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I totally understand why someone wouldn't want a traxxas kit TBH. The reason I own a TRX-4 is the defender body. The plastics and engineering is generally very good, but they do lack in the "soul" dept.
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Jun 1, 2020 22:28
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This is a great conversation. I am taking your advice and getting a 1/10 crawler for my first instead of a 1/24. I am just trying to go cheaper with out being lovely. Is there a good crawler that is amazing at crawling, but not scale? It seems like looking scale is a huge part of crawling, but I don’t care either way?
Snowmankilla fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jun 2, 2020 |
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Jun 2, 2020 03:15
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Somewhat Heroic posted:The Origin is certainly not the level of kit anyone needs. I work in-industry and I am also a broke brained individual that usually goes for what excites me and the Origin definitely excites. This is great! Thanks for the others that chimed in on tool suggestions as well. The SCX10III looks spot on. I'm deployed away from the family for a bit so I'll take some time researching and ordering everything to my house and aim to build this around my kiddo's 5th birthday. I doubt he will remain focused long while I assemble everything but he can still consult. One thing I noticed looking at the instructions for that kit is that it says I would need to get "a 4-Channel radio system with one (1) Servo, two (2) Micro servo and one (1) Electronic Speed controller to operate all features." Are those parts pretty standard and will fit any kit? Also the battery "Recommended Battery:Standard 6-cell NiMH or Standard 2S LiPo" are all batteries pretty much created equal?
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Jun 2, 2020 08:18
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Bruxism posted:This is great! Thanks for the others that chimed in on tool suggestions as well. The SCX10III looks spot on. I'm deployed away from the family for a bit so I'll take some time researching and ordering everything to my house and aim to build this around my kiddo's 5th birthday. I doubt he will remain focused long while I assemble everything but he can still consult. One thing I noticed looking at the instructions for that kit is that it says I would need to get "a 4-Channel radio system with one (1) Servo, two (2) Micro servo and one (1) Electronic Speed controller to operate all features." Are those parts pretty standard and will fit any kit? Also the battery "Recommended Battery:Standard 6-cell NiMH or Standard 2S LiPo" are all batteries pretty much created equal? Generally speaking, steering servos and electronic speed controllers are universal/standard fit items. The micro servos that are OPTIONAL setup for the 10III need to be a specific size/strength. I think there are some Spektrum brand ones that Axial lists (keeping it in the "family") but there are some Savox units that are nice compact and strong. The micro servos are optional if you want to use the two speed setup (you can shift from high or low speed) and/or use a dig function.  micro servos are optional and you can use the model without these. You would not have a dig function or two speeds is all.  If you are unfamiliar with what a dig does, it basically locks the back tires from spinning and disconnects the rear driveline from the transmission so only the front tires are spinning. For triple locked models it helps get around tight corners and is a neat party trick to hit "sick lines". I have never used it myself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9K0ud_BiG8 The reason it discusses radios that have multiple channels is that you need a channel for each function. Steering is one function, throttle/brake is a second function. A two speed would be an additional function, the dig would be another so up to four channels can be used for the full functionality. Spektrum offers some pretty reasonably priced radio systems that have the transmitter and receiver. The DX5C is only $155. They have a new "Rugged" model that is kind of weather proof and more durable. It is a 5 channel, but receiver is not included. I am considering one of these for my son eventually since the OOOLD DX2S he has been using is getting real long in tooth. Good for one handed driving (so you can take videos with your phone/other hand - I am not kidding) and also a good idea if you have a little kid and you are worried about your radio getting dropped. Futaba is another brand, the one I use personally. The 4PM would be a four channel radio, it runs about $250. Futaba has a 3 channel option for under $150 (3PV) that would get you either the dig function OR the two speed function but not both. For batteries get LiPo. They are just so much better. Use them appropriately, take proper precautions. Some people are okay with cheaper packs. I find that the GensAce batteries (which are the OEM supplier for nearly everyone that doesn't suck) are a great value and perform very well. A 5000mah battery will go for hours in a crawler on a single charge. Snowmankilla posted:This is a great conversation. I am taking your advice and getting a 1/10 crawler for my first instead of a 1/24. I am just trying to go cheaper with out being lovely. Is there a good crawler that is amazing at crawling, but not scale? It seems like looking scale is a huge part of crawling, but I don’t care either way? you are 100% talking about the RTR Axial Capra. That thing will kill lines and crawl like a monster. Plan on the steering servo taking a dump and replacing it but otherwise just get one and have a blast.
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Jun 2, 2020 18:34
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I grew up using mid-to-high end Futaba radio gear, but I like my current cheap-as-gently caress Flysky GT3B setup better than any of them. Absolute 100% agreed on the lipos. The only real downside they have is that they're theoretically more dangerous than NiMH, but if you're dumb enough you can definitely boil one of those packs too with a timer charger  Just make sure you don't dead short them (which should be the case for any battery), use a proper lipo charger, and use an ESC that has a conservatively set low voltage cutoff, and you'll be fine.
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Jun 2, 2020 19:25
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
This is actually super what I am looking for. Looks bad rear end. That $450 price tag is a bit over where I am looking to be. Maybe a trx4 is not a horrible idea.
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Jun 3, 2020 01:33
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Generally speaking, steering servos and electronic speed controllers are universal/standard fit items. The micro servos that are OPTIONAL setup for the 10III need to be a specific size/strength. I think there are some Spektrum brand ones that Axial lists (keeping it in the "family") but there are some Savox units that are nice compact and strong. The micro servos are optional if you want to use the two speed setup (you can shift from high or low speed) and/or use a dig function. Thanks again for all these detailed responses. If you don't mind, I think I'll put together a shopping list and post it here to make sure I'm getting the right parts and not missing anything.
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Jun 3, 2020 01:43
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Buy two smaller packs rather than a single 5000. Shove the extra in your back pocket. Much nicer to have a spare than a single large pack imo.
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Jun 3, 2020 04:49
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Ok, so here is the list I came up with. Does this look like everything that would be needed to complete this build? I'm not trying to be particularly frugal or top-of-the-line with any component so I'd welcome feedback if it looks like I am overpaying or under buying something I shouldn't be. One thing the instruction book calls for is silicon oil, but I couldn't figure out what weight I would need. I'll also likely get some cheaper Wera drivers instead of the expensive Vanquish ones. It takes 2-4 weeks for me to get mail so if I leave something out it puts everything on hold. If I decide to pull the trigger I'd like to have everything I need in one big shipment. Thanks again for the help. 
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Jun 3, 2020 08:58
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The kit probably comes with grease, thread lock, and shock oil (at least mine did, but it was the previous version.) I do not think you’re getting much value for money on a $60 hex driver set — I’ve built several kits with a plastic dynamite set that was like $15 and been perfectly happy.
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Jun 3, 2020 17:15
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MIP is the gold standard for hex drivers. The only caveat being that they don’t have replaceable tips. But you probably won’t need to replace them if you take care of them. I didn’t even know Vanquish made a tool kit. Please don’t buy stock Axial electronics, especially for a brushed setup. The Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 is more than enough to drive a 55t motor. And while we’re at it, go for a Holmes brushed motor. Like a Trailmaster Sport 55t or a Crawlmaster sport 20t. It’s the same price and will be a lot better quality and performance. The Crawlmaster series are 5 slot motors so don’t be put off by the lower turns, they’re still slow and torquey. kuffs fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 17:33
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Also, I own a set of Wera drivers and would strongly discourage you from getting them. The small handles do not offer enough torque for many RC tasks. And the unique tip design that Wera touts as innovation is actually worse than conventional designs. Applying the torque to the corners really just increases your chances of rounding the screw head. I say this as someone who really likes the other Wera stuff I have.
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Jun 3, 2020 17:56
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As others have pointed out, don’t buy electronics from first parties. A quickrun 1080 or a Castle with a holmes motor would be less money and much nicer/more adjustable to your taste.
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Jun 3, 2020 18:49
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I recently picked up a e-revo 2.0 and 2x 3s batteries - Holy crap this is way more durable and fun than my old RC10GT I had in high school ( Nitro...ugh constant tuning) and way more capable in my rough backyard than my old 1/10 slash 2wd I converted to brushless. I haven't managed to break anything yet. I know its probably not as good of a value as an ARRMA or as well put together as a Losi but drat.. this is fun. As far as tools go, I picked up the traxxas kit ($25?) and a set of MIP ball end hex drivers ($50) and its really all I need for now besides other basic small tools like needlenose pliers or something. Probably overkill but oh well.
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Jun 4, 2020 23:56
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I’m really looking hard at the Redcat Scout II and Wendigo, they look like quality cars. The only real r/c car I’ve had is a Traxxas 1/16 E-Revo VXL on 2S LiPo. I don’t expect a scale crawler/bouncer to have the same driving characteristics as one of those, but I think the Wendigo will be closer? I really, really like the looks of the Scout though, and it is cheaper. Decisions, decisions...
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Jun 5, 2020 00:15
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Any of you guys know if there's anywhere I can shop or research RCs by dimensions? Specifically wheelbase and/or width? I've got an old radio shack truck that I actually got running again recently with a servo and esc, but I don't think the ancient motor liked the LiPo very much. It has literally zero suspension but I love the body so I'd like to find something to at least mount it to.
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Jun 5, 2020 01:27
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Bruxism that is definitely a good list. You appear to like your lubes. One style of grease will be plenty. If the 10III does not include silicone shock fluid just get some 40 weight. That should be a good start. As others said, go for a different speed controller. No reason to get an Axial branded one for that much $$$. For the wrench sets those Vanquish are extremely nice and you will appreciate them. There is a set you can find from Dynamite RC for like $30 if you wanted to save a little there. The brushed motor is cheap and will work fine. I drove some 1/5 with a friend earlier this week. I have some video I am cutting together. I will be sure to post it here. For now enjoy pics of his car (FG EVO 2020.1)   He really needs to trim those body mounts. He said he prefers the uncircumcised look.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:38
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^^^ Thats beautiful. Just got myself a ARRMA Notorius, god drat this thing is crazy powerful and pops wheelies like its nothing. Having a blast running it in fields, looking forward to taking it to a skate park for some air. 
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Jun 7, 2020 19:21
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hey all. My kids beat my stampede to poo poo, and it appears that a front shock is bent/stuck. Is there a particular seller or store or manufacturer I should be looking at for replacements? E: front suspension seems pretty hosed on both sides, so anything that would make this thing more tolerant of being driven full speed into objects would be appreciated. gvibes fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 06:51
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gvibes posted:hey all. My kids beat my stampede to poo poo, and it appears that a front shock is bent/stuck. Is there a particular seller or store or manufacturer I should be looking at for replacements? Not sure about shocks, seems like there are plenty of traxxas parts online including amazon that you should be able to find good replacements. I found ones that had the right lengths for my arrma Senton and it worked well. For toughness upgrades T bone racing makes a nice set of bumpers and upgrades for all types of vehicles including the stampede https://tboneracing.net/search?type=product&q=Stampede GlassEye-Boy fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 16:51
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Don't forget to check if there is a throttle limiter feature in your radio. That would let you reduce the max speed they are able to push the vehicle to making crashes less harmful.
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Jun 18, 2020 17:09
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GlassEye-Boy posted:Not sure about shocks, seems like there are plenty of traxxas parts online including amazon that you should be able to find good replacements. I found ones that had the right lengths for my arrma Senton and it worked well. Kibner posted:Don't forget to check if there is a throttle limiter feature in your radio. That would let you reduce the max speed they are able to push the vehicle to making crashes less harmful.
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Jun 18, 2020 17:52
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gvibes posted:Yeah, apparently there are upgraded titanium nitride shafts, so I bought a couple of those. For what it's worth that's usually for better wear resistance on the shafts so you don't run into leaks, it's not going to make a difference in bend resistance. Another option could be reducing gearing a bit - smaller pinion / larger spur would result in a lower top speed.
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Jun 18, 2020 17:55
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Any of you guys happen to own a Traxxas/LaTrax Teton? If so, I've got a couple questions.
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Jun 18, 2020 22:06
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gvibes posted:Yeah, apparently there are upgraded titanium nitride shafts, so I bought a couple of those. Yeah, echoed. The titanium nitride shafts are for racing. It’s a coating that helps prevent nicks and reduces sticktion. They won’t be any more durable. You’re either gonna have to teach them to drive, slow it down, or you’re just gonna keep buying shocks. The Traxxas stuff is sturdy but there’s nothing out there that will stand up to being repeatedly driven into walls at speed.
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Jun 19, 2020 22:57
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stampede front shocks are also very forward on the lower arms which makes them vulnerable, and the super high departure angle doesn’t help; there’s just nowhere for the energy to go. I’d look into adapting a touring car closed cell bumper onto your truck, along with lowering the gearing.
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Jun 19, 2020 23:28
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Thanks all.
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Jun 20, 2020 05:03
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Stimulus check ended with me buying both a SCX24 and a TRX sport kit. I hosed up the paint, but I’ll post pics when I’m done. I come asking for advice. I think I am ready to try a brushless motor. Are there any cool brushless vehicles that are around $200 that are worth checking out? I would be ok with 1/10 to 1/14 scale? I have found the Nitrorcx stuff that seems pretty cool, but I have heard parts are hard to come by. I found a Team Associated Reflex 14b that looks dope. And that’s about it. The only other thing I debated was to spend that cash to put the LCG kit and a brushless motor in my first 2wd Slash. Anything I am missing? Any big red flags on any of those?
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Jun 24, 2020 01:23
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