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rscott posted:I've been browsing through various rental sites lately, looking to downsize and cut some expenses since the economy is kind of screwed right now, and then I see this Yeah the only thing wrong with that is it's a rental. I want to own something very similar. But I never will, I just signed closing documents co-signing on my dad's house. He's going to continue to pay the mortgage until I move in with him and sell my place, then I'll make a down payment with my profit and take over the mortgage. He'll either pay me rent, or give me a good enough deal on the purchase that he'll just live there for free. The best part is it's a 2300 sq foot house on the same size daylight basement. The basement is divided between a 4 car garage and a basement apartment for rent, which I might shrink or eliminate for more car storage, or remove and put in a rec room. Then in the backyard there's paved parking for 4-5 more cars. Long term goal is to put a shop in the backyard, there's entirely too much vegetation back there right now. When I move later this year I'll be doing a megapost about it. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Jun 20, 2020 |
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Jun 20, 2020 13:40
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Light chat -- I've needed more light in my garage for a while. I started out with two 4-bulb 4' florescent and 1 bulb in each of the 2 door openers. A few years ago, I replaced the florescents with led and the tied the door openers into Costco 2 tube led fixtures with a plug adapter in the sockets. That was okay for a while. It's been... okay, but not great. Yesterday I replaced one of the Costco 2 tube fixtures with four 36w Amazon 2 tube leds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TM97LWY Big difference.  Old Costco on the left, old 4 tube on the right. You can't tell from the picture, but the row of 4 fixtures absolutely dominates the light output. I think I'll get 4 more and hook them up to the other door opener, then get new led replacement tubes. I just need to get back into those fixtures, I think I removed the ballast and hardwired the leds in when I did it, so I'll have to see what the modern replacement is. Output per dollar, though? Those Amazon lights are pretty nice. And yes, I need to dust the garage ceiling.
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Jun 20, 2020 20:09
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EVERYWHERE 
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What were those LED lights that go on the garage door itself? I tried searching for things like "led lights that go on garage door itself" but I'm just getting poo poo about lights in the actual opener *edit* This is what I was thinking of, but I'm not going to drop $325 when I'm just renting my current place. I don't need them to automatically come on, I could just add some stick on lights to the door for when I'm trying to work on stuff with the door open MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 02:26
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MomJeans420 posted:What were those LED lights that go on the garage door itself? I tried searching for things like "led lights that go on garage door itself" but I'm just getting poo poo about lights in the actual opener They're just using cheap 12v white LED strips. You could make the same thing fairly cheap. The hardest part would be figuring out contacts to get power onto the door, but even that you could probably just use some 12 gauge solid copper wire to make some shape that will contact when the door closes.
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Jun 22, 2020 03:55
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That's pretty cool - I had no idea that was such a thing. The whole powering it would be the tricky part.
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Jun 22, 2020 04:50
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2 pin spring loaded pogo connector, the power side is just mounted on the track to a 12v supply. The LED strip they use has a high output so it's surprisingly expensive, you can do it for cheaper if you're ok with less brightness.
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Jun 22, 2020 06:29
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I'd power that with a coiled lead myself. I like the idea and I wonder if I could rig a relay to turn off the tube lamp the door covers and turn that on when it's open.
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Jun 22, 2020 06:49
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That's great, and I want it. Never occurred to me. And yeah, the cheap LED strips you can get off Amazon or superbrightleds are surprisingly bright and very affordable these days. You could use insulated staples for a wood door but double stick tape is really effective these days. You don't even have to do one row per segment, you could just do a whole bunch of lights on the segment of your choice.
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 16:52
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MPJA has switching 12V 18A supplies for $50. That will run a fair number of LEDs.
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Jun 22, 2020 17:00
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I wonder if you could just run a power cable like this from the ceiling instead of messing around with connectors:
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Jun 22, 2020 17:07
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Of course I threw away all my old power supplies in my last move, but you can get a 12V 10A supply on amazon for $20, or a 12V 20A for $42. Looks like the LED light strips you want are the 5630s, and they're $10/16 ft strip on ebay. Those pogo connectors look promising but unless I'm missing something it looks like I'd need to put them in a small enclosure with holes drilled in it to keep them in place. I'm also not quite sure what they connect to. Ignoring the having it turn on and off automatically issue, I could build something decent for ~$60 it seems (assuming two 16ft strips provides enough light for one garage door sized area). It's not like I'm working on my bike every time I open the garage door anyway, I could just manually connect it when needed. *edit* maybe a magnetic power connector? these handle 6A each so I think 4 of them would be fine for my purposes. MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 17:09
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'd power that with a coiled lead myself. I like the idea and I wonder if I could rig a relay to turn off the tube lamp the door covers and turn that on when it's open. Mustache Ride posted:I wonder if you could just run a power cable like this from the ceiling instead of messing around with connectors:  . Yeah, that.
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Jun 22, 2020 20:35
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I ended up doing: 2 16ft LED strip lights - 5630, cool white, non-waterpoof - $19.73 12V / 150W / 12.5A power supply - $41.74 10 pack strip to strip with wire LED connectors - $8.81 6 pairs high current magnetic pogo charging connectors - $32.94 (half of that was shipping) I may end up needing other things, but I'll start from there. It was hard to find a decently priced power supply with good reviews, my main focus was avoiding ones where people thought they were fire hazards. None of the LED strip connectors had great ratings so I just went with these. My sole goal for this lighting is to light up the space where I work on my bikes, so I'm going to cut each strip in half and have four 8 ft sections of LED light overhead, even spaced. I'm not sure if that will be enough light, but 120W of LEDs seems like it should be more than adequate. I have no idea how this will all turn out, but I'll post the results when everything gets here. I probably should have added on some Scotch heavy duty mounting tape to the total price list, and the LED strips don't usually get great reviews on the stock mounting tape. *edit* I looked for coiled leads and didn't have great luck then decided why not way overly complicate things with this magnetic design? *another edit* I just canceled the power supply order, I realized as it is right now it would be on 100% of the time but only have a load when the garage door was open. A computer power supply would probably be better because I could just have it short the two wires that turn on the PSU when the door is open. I'll have to think this through more but I'm open to ideas MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 20:48
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What are the non-door-attached LED lights that everyone in here loves? I really need to start getting my garage together so I stop using things like "no good lighting" and "no workbench or shelves" as an excuse. I've got a tractor to teardown and rebuild!
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Jun 23, 2020 01:10
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The usual suggestion are the feit lights from Costco which are or are about to go on sale for $18 each in store. https://www.costco.com/feit-electric-4%27-linkable-led-shop-light%2c-2-pack.product.100462723.html I had 8 of them in my old garage and I've got 10 in my new one with 3 more to put up. I'm a fan of them. However: meatpimp posted:Light chat -- I've needed more light in my garage for a while. I started out with two 4-bulb 4' florescent and 1 bulb in each of the 2 door openers. A few years ago, I replaced the florescents with led and the tied the door openers into Costco 2 tube led fixtures with a plug adapter in the sockets. That was okay for a while. It's been... okay, but not great.
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Jun 23, 2020 01:35
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Galler posted:The usual suggestion are the feit lights from Costco which are or are about to go on sale for $18 each in store. https://www.costco.com/feit-electric-4%27-linkable-led-shop-light%2c-2-pack.product.100462723.html I don't have a membership but have a friend who does. Is there a way to see the in-store price without actually going in-store? E: I thought you quoted the post because you were replying to it as well, didn't realize it was also for me. E2: What the hell, that post was even on this page. I guess I didn't remember seeing it. Anyway, I ordered 3 sets of 4 of the Amazon lights. carticket fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 01:43
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Bought a new thing for cheap from my next door neighbor because he's selling his house. Not pictured: the other car that will go on top of it that my wife has been trying to get from her father for years, and finally succeeded when she asked "but what if we had a lift?"
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Jun 26, 2020 02:25
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Niiiiiiiiiiice, but what is the car going on top?
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Jun 26, 2020 04:44
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Nice. Very jelly. Is it 120V?
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Jun 26, 2020 04:57
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MomJeans420 posted:Niiiiiiiiiiice, but what is the car going on top? Well, I didn't want to jinx anything by sharing in the post your own ride thread, and didn't want to go off topic here. But FINE  Honestly not sure what sort of condition it is in now; this is when he bought it 12 or so years ago and it's been barely driven since. Garaged until 5 or so years ago, but since then sitting under a cover in a driveway in a coastal area right by the water, which is why she's been pestering him to give it to someone who will take care of it and drive it (us). He impulse bought it on eBay after he watched Thunderbolt and Lightfoot with her. As I'm told, it's a 1970 with a 455 from a 1975 swapped into it. I don't know what's been done to it beyond that. I'd consider starting a project thread for it depending on what state it's in; I'm not that experienced working on cars (did repairs as needed with my dad in high school on our junkers 20 years ago) but have a decent understanding of how things work and eager and interested to learn.
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Jun 26, 2020 04:59
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slidebite posted:Nice. Very jelly. Is it 120V? Yup; though the previous owner of the house had the garage wired with two 50A and one 30A 240V outlets with dedicated circuits, so I'll have to find things to use those for also. Double also same neighbor just gave me his engine stand
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Jun 26, 2020 05:03
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Is that a targa / t-top? I'm not an older American car guy but as far as I can tell from Google those didn't come out until 1976
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Jun 26, 2020 06:11
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1976 is accurate. He's either mistaken on the year or it had an aftermarket conversion which was very common in the 70s and 80s for sunroofs/t-tops. I remember the 2nd gen with having horrendously heavy doors which always caused wicked sag and alignment issues. I still want a Turbo indy pace car edition for some completely stupid reason which I can't explain. Hope it works out! They are simple, reliable especially once you get rid of the smog fuckery but are borderline boats and not quick or fast without some time and money. The 455 was a big engine and sounds impressive, but wheezy for sure.
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Jun 26, 2020 06:19
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slidebite posted:1976 is accurate. He's either mistaken on the year or it had an aftermarket conversion which was very common in the 70s and 80s for sunroofs/t-tops. Yeah the t tops are definitely aftermarket. I'm very far from an expert here but the car is definitely not 1976 or later: no wrap around rear window which I think they all had after 1974 or 1975 or so? Clear enough the car is far from stock, so no idea what if anything has been done to the engine for power, etc. Stands to reason that if you go through the trouble of an engine swap, especially with that one, you wouldn't leave it at the, what, 200 factory horsepower?
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Jun 26, 2020 06:29
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But I'll be perfectly happy if nothing else has been done to it, because then I'll get to!
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Jun 26, 2020 06:31
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https://www.atlasautoequipment.ca/atlas-psp-6000-6-000-lb-portable-single-post-lift/
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Jun 26, 2020 21:20
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slidebite posted:https://www.atlasautoequipment.ca/atlas-psp-6000-6-000-lb-portable-single-post-lift/ My Dad bought one a couple years ago and loves it. Forum user Party Alarm has one as well.
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Jun 26, 2020 22:26
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How do you convince yourself you won't die under it?
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Jun 27, 2020 04:10
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taqueso posted:How do you convince yourself you won't die under it? It’s not from Harbor Freight.
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Jun 27, 2020 04:44
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Pretty sure the only way to guarantee that is to not stand under it. Thanks but no thanks.
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Jun 27, 2020 04:44
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slidebite posted:https://www.atlasautoequipment.ca/atlas-psp-6000-6-000-lb-portable-single-post-lift/ Ah, hmm... Nah.
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Jun 27, 2020 05:53
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I have to admit, I'm tempted, but also slightly terrified that dropping the motor will make the whole thing collapse
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Jun 27, 2020 07:18
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"Drop" the motor indeed. Just loosen the subframe bolts and step out of the way.
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Jun 27, 2020 08:00
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It feels a little weird working under but once you get used to it it isn't bad. I think Dad's is rated for 6k, the 4k Model 3 has the outward side down a few inches. The 5.5k Yukon felt sketchy as hell on it. He got it because it's mobile and he could store it out of the way most of the time despite having 16 foot ceilings.
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Jun 27, 2020 13:43
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A boring, but very big QOL improvement. I got my busted roll-up doors replaced. Before   After   Went with 3-layer insulated commercial doors.  But, I can legitimately tell a big difference. Next is having the roof repaired, got a few leaks and I can't find em. 
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Jun 28, 2020 01:22
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Not sure where you live, but if it's anywhere with a real winter you will notice a massive difference in heat retention. If it's heated, you'll see it on your bill and probably pay for itself after a few years.
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Jun 28, 2020 15:47
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SE USA, so no real winter and not heated or cooled, but very hot summers and the doors are east facing. The rest of it is partially insulated, getting that finished is another stretch goal for this year. I have some electrical to run first, among everything else.
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Jun 28, 2020 16:01
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angryrobots posted:SE USA, so no real winter and not heated or cooled, but very hot summers and the doors are east facing. The rest of it is partially insulated, getting that finished is another stretch goal for this year. I have some electrical to run first, among everything else. I’m in South Florida, and the insulated garage door was worth every penny. Mine faces west, and it took 10-15° off the garage temperature year round. It’s still ~85-90° in there, but it’s doable.The hurricane-rated installation saved a bit on my windstorm insurance as well. Door will pay for itself in ~5-8yrs.
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Jun 28, 2020 22:32
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We did insulated doors in TN and it was very worth it. Doors don't seal great and is a project I need to get to but it's still an improvement. Anyone put a/c in their garage? I don't have any windows otherwise I'd toss in a window unit and call it good. Have a service door we never use that I've considered bracing then chopping a hole for a window unit. Have also looked at the slim units. Would be nice to cool it down a bit and drop the humidity, poor dehumidifier can barely keep up in the summer.
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Jun 29, 2020 14:09
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I plan on adding a mini-split to mine but I need to insulate the walls and replace the doors first.
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Jun 29, 2020 17:37
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