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movax posted:The current issue I’m actually having is the devices at my parents’ place seem to be sticking to 2.4 and not always hopping to 5. As far as I know, this doesn’t happen at my place. BUT, my parents have Fire Sticks and popping open the WiFi Analyzer on my laptops, those loving things broadcast a 5GHz network on the same channel as the AP its connected too, allegedly for the remote. I’m wondering if it’s the reason the clients (almost all Apple devices) are deciding to go to 2.4. What do you have the transmit powers set to?
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Jun 29, 2020 00:09
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H110Hawk posted:If I may make a suggestion, buy a workgroup switch for your entertainment center and just run 1 or 2 cables to that. Unless that's your plan already. Right yeah, just one cable through the basement. And then that's going to be connected to a switch on my entertainment center and I'm planning on making my own custom length patch cables to go from the switch to each component. I'm actually planning on connecting another room, so I'm putting a switch in the basement too. Using a utility knife to strip the cable turned out to be super easy. The tedious part is threading everything through the plastic insert for the terminal.
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Jun 29, 2020 00:29
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Baxate posted:Right yeah, just one cable through the basement. And then that's going to be connected to a switch on my entertainment center and I'm planning on making my own custom length patch cables to go from the switch to each component. I'm actually planning on connecting another room, so I'm putting a switch in the basement too. For the patch cables, please save yourself the hassle and just buy them. For example, these Monoprice ones are pretty good and have a ton of length options: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9797 astral fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 00:42
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movax posted:I just deployed a UDM-Pro and some nanoHD and flexHD, Flex Switxhes at my parents — pretty smooth. Also not a complicated setup (no VLANs yet), but I err conservative on my settings that a lot of folks may not like killing off the auto optimize features and things like that. No doubt though that people see problems, the amount of posts on it are insane, and I’m sure if my parents had more IoT poo poo and I did VLANs and other configs I would hit them I battled this with one of my devices and it ended up being that the Roku Stick+ will not connect to any DFS 5ghz network. Might be worth looking at.
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Jun 29, 2020 01:06
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astral posted:What do you have the transmit powers set to? Medium / Medium on each AP (for both 2G and 5G). withoutclass posted:I battled this with one of my devices and it ended up being that the Roku Stick+ will not connect to any DFS 5ghz network. Might be worth looking at. I read something similar about the Fire sticks but I intentionally chose VHT40 and VHT80 on the low and high side of the range (36 and 155 IIRC).
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Jun 29, 2020 01:17
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I have a MacBook that won’t connect at anything other than 40 I think and my fire stick won’t stay on 5ghz unless it’s channel 36. Stuffs wild.
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Jun 29, 2020 01:21
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In this case the Fire Stick is actually working flawlessly, I’m wondering if it’s stupid WiFi direct thing is making it so other devices keep jumping to 2.4... only real difference I can think of. At my place, I temporarily have a FlexHD below me in the garage and my phone can iperf 300Mbps+ on 5GHz. Insane to me at my parents place with less neighbors and less congestion, in the same room as the AP, that it can’t jump to 5 and sits on 2.4 pulling down like 10Mbps.
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Jun 29, 2020 01:29
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movax posted:Medium / Medium on each AP (for both 2G and 5G). Bumping 5GHz power up to High or reducing 2.4 to Low should sort things out.
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Jun 29, 2020 01:35
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PerniciousKnid posted:What kind of issues are there with the UDM? As I discovered so rudely yesterday, basic UDM (as in the apple suppository-looking one) requires you to log into a UI account to get it to even work as a dumb switch. It literally DRMs you out of using it if you don't go full-in on Ubiquiti's cloud cult. It will not acquire an IP address, will not do any switching, and won't even let you do the Windows 10 thing of letting your start with an offline account if you yank the ethernet and it can't connect to the internet. Just that alone was enough for me to send it back.
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Jun 29, 2020 01:48
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movax posted:I err conservative on my settings that a lot of folks may not like killing off the auto optimize features and things like that....The current issue I’m actually having is the devices at my parents’ place seem to be sticking to 2.4 and not always hopping to 5. Is this one of the optimizations you turned off? Band steering is an AP behavior. e: apparently band steering is locked behind an advanced menu? KS fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 02:26
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Second ssid is the way to go if you don't have any 5ghz range issues. Put 2.4ghz ssid's only on the ap's that need it and only connect the garbage to it. If you only rename the 2.4ghz one there is minimal reconfiguration.
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Jun 29, 2020 02:37
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JayKay posted:with an old server box to run the controller. Almost no one really needs to run the controller 24 x 7, run it once on a desktop to setup the radios, then shut it down until you need to update.
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Jun 29, 2020 02:50
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movax posted:I just deployed a UDM-Pro and some nanoHD and flexHD, Flex Switxhes at my parents — pretty smooth. Also not a complicated setup (no VLANs yet), but I err conservative on my settings that a lot of folks may not like killing off the auto optimize features and things like that. No doubt though that people see problems, the amount of posts on it are insane, and I’m sure if my parents had more IoT poo poo and I did VLANs and other configs I would hit them Unifi bandsteering is wack, it's a lot quicker/simpler to separate SSIDs, use the stock setting with a prefix on 2.4Ghz instead of manual separation over each ap. Even when limiting power to low the 2.4Ghz radio will still emit stronger than the 5Ghz one.
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Jun 29, 2020 10:57
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I have a quick question about my network setup in my apartment. I currently have a Spectrum modem/router setup. The previous tenants had Verizon, and there is a cat 5e cable already routed from the bedroom, and spliced into an unused jack with a single open port on the other end of the apartment. I want to run a wired connection into the bedroom from my Spectrum modem for work. Can I safely plug my modem into the wall jack and run the wired connection that way, or do I need to run an additional cable from my modem into the bedroom? It would be much easier to use the existing cable than to route a new one into the bedroom. I just want to check before I start plugging things into random jacks. There Bias Two fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 16:42
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SlowBloke posted:Unifi bandsteering is wack, it's a lot quicker/simpler to separate SSIDs, use the stock setting with a prefix on 2.4Ghz instead of manual separation over each ap. Even when limiting power to low the 2.4Ghz radio will still emit stronger than the 5Ghz one. I'm now actually wondering if my setup at home has 2.4 turned off on my "main" SSID and is only on the IoT VLAN / SSID...
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Jun 29, 2020 17:42
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Good enough for a dispensary curbside pickup, good enough for your house.  
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Jun 29, 2020 20:34
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Alright, I'm losing my hair. Hoping someone might have some inside Ubiquiti knowledge that could help. Previously: Had Nighthawk R7000. Started failing daily on the most stable firmware I ever had, and I said gently caress that I'm getting something else finally. Too much frustration over the years. It was always able to give me my full ISP speed in my office. Upgraded to Ubiquiti UDM. Hoping it would be powerful enough to give me the same performance. It really isn't. I'm getting around 1-2mbps up and down (ISP service is 150/15) in my office. Other times I get 10/15. On my phone I'm getting 60/10 in the office, with 92/12 if i put my phone right by my wifi adapter antennas. If i move the phone in/out of the doorway into the office, there's a very clear "shadow" where i get full 150/15 in the open doorway but it quickly drops off if i move to the side. So I'm wondering two things - firstly, is there any known issue with TP-Link wifi adapters and Ubiquiti equipment? It's a TP-Link Archer T9E (802.11ac). According to W10 the drivers are fully up to date. I have a TP-Link range extender that I used to use to get a good line-of-sight connection to my garage, but it can't stay connected to the UDM for more than 10 minutes at a time. Considering my office PC is our plex server, that really sucks. Aside from that, is there a setting or something that would be limiting the signal strength? I shut off the 2.4g radio to test all this stuff out, and i set the 5g strength to High. I have no issues getting full speed in most of the rest of the house. Do I need to just suck it up and get a BeaconHD - or return the thing and go for some powerful ASUS router? I bought into the UDM in part for the ecosystem to grow with, mainly for the security features (which seem to surpass most residential products), and in large part as something that would just be reliable.
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Jun 29, 2020 20:38
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I'm going to quote myself / bump this one because I'm still baffled and keep breaking my connection when I run some SQL queries, namely those which have a large number of search strings or return >50k rows. Here is what I posted earlier:Trabant posted:Popping in for some help, again, please, because I have a weird thing happening. Here's my home network: (referring to where I run SQL from and max connections enabled): Trabant posted:The only computer I run SQL from is the work laptop, so that shouldn't be it (if I understood your question). But if I need to check those multiple-connection settings on the laptop, I'm all ears. (referring to where the VPN utility runs and whether I have hwnat enabled: Trabant posted:1) It's a utility running on the work laptop. If anyone has any clue wtf could be going on -- or even how else I could troubleshoot this -- I'd greatly appreciate it. I won't keep bumping beyond this, I promise.
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Jun 29, 2020 21:45
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Multi-part question. * Does anyone have experience with UPSes such a this, what might fit into a wallbox? https://www.tripplite.com/550va-audio-video-backup-power-block-exclusive-ups-protection-for-structured-wiring-enclosure~AV550SC * Does anyone know of any alternatives to that TrippLite? * Does anyone have knowledge on what kinds of losses are incurred in the conversion from battery to 120V AC to whatever V DC? * Is anyone *really* actually using those crap 13000 mAh DC batteries that keep polluting my search results on Amazon?
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Jun 30, 2020 08:12
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Multi-part question. I'm sure Crestron has something.  efficiency is basically 100% these days for all intents and purposes.Do you have to supply your own battery for this thing? If so probably. If you're worried about quality look at whatever tripplite sells. I would use them. Make sure it has a recent date stamp and meters out correctly on arrival, if it doesn't send it back.
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Jun 30, 2020 16:08
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It's a standby UPS, so in normal operation the mains power is connected directly to the outlets - there's no filtering or conditioning happening, so the efficiency isn't going to be an issue.
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Jun 30, 2020 17:39
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My UPS always die after growing in size, fitting into a small wallbox doesn't seem a great idea.
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Jun 30, 2020 17:44
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Set a 2.9 year calendar reminder to replace the battery. Do it on that schedule and they shouldn't bulge and die.
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Jun 30, 2020 18:55
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I finally was able to start a new contract with a different ISP today, one that offers IPv6 connectivity. My main issue with the IPv4-only previous ISP was that my stepson and I couldn't play certain games together on the same network, like Call of Duty - if one of us was on say, Warzone, the other couldn't connect, so we resorted to hotspotting off a mobile phone with plenty of mobile data. My new ISP is BT and we're using the Smart Hub 2. Do I need to configure IPv6 pinholes or anything to allow us to play together?
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Jul 1, 2020 00:06
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Guitarchitect posted:Alright, I'm losing my hair. Hoping someone might have some inside Ubiquiti knowledge that could help. There's likely too many variables here for someone to help. What type of material is between your UDM and your TP-Link wifi adapter? Is the UDM in a silly place? Is your wifi adapter in a silly place? Also, having your Plex server on wifi is never going to work out well, so you should find a way not to do that. Turning off the 2.4g radio may have actually made the problem worse. 2.4g signal penetrates material better.
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Jul 1, 2020 00:18
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Just finalized a purchase agreement on my first house so obviously thinking about the networking setup first. It's a 2880 sq ft rambler, so pretty long with just the main floor and basement. I'm intrigued by the Ubiquiti router + AP setup, but not sure how up to date the OP is. I'm techy enough to know what's going on, but I don't use the network for anything special except I have a server setup for Plex and Usenet that would be on it. Is there a beginner's setup guide for everything? I assume I'd need at least two APs and the router. I also will have to figure out how to run network cable through walls but that's a whole different thing...
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Jul 1, 2020 00:25
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Internet Explorer posted:There's likely too many variables here for someone to help. What type of material is between your UDM and your TP-Link wifi adapter? Is the UDM in a silly place? Is your wifi adapter in a silly place? It was never a problem with my old router, that's the odd thing. I always had a full-speed fully stable 150mbps down / 15mbps up connection. Router is smack in the middle of the house on one side (interior dimensions, the house is maybe 18' wide and 28' long), and while there's gypsum/wood walls in between there's nothing crazy... I already expect brick to be an issue because we could never get a signal outside unless we could see the router through a window - the walls are three bricks wide. Someone else posted about the exact same issue in the Ubiquiti forums (T9E and all) so I've posted another thread there with fingers crossed.
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Jul 1, 2020 01:50
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KingKapalone posted:Just finalized a purchase agreement on my first house so obviously thinking about the networking setup first. It's a 2880 sq ft rambler, so pretty long with just the main floor and basement. I'll save you a few bucks if you continue down the Edgerouter + Unifi AP route. The brand new wave 2 APs are powered by 45W 802.3f, far more than the 25W that my ER-X-SFP, at least, is capable of providing.
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Jul 1, 2020 13:57
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My Qotom device is going to be here next week. I am still deciding between opnsense and pfsense. Does anyone use opnsense here?
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Jul 1, 2020 14:10
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Really they are both going to get the job done.. They are both known to be fairly secure and stable. OpnSense forked from PfSense many years ago due your typical open-source fighting (licensing). It has been re-written enough that it doesn't have much code from PFSense left in it. PFSense has kept their older looking interface; it has been mostly the same for 10 years now. You might say OpnSense has a little more modern "pretty" looking interface. Originally PFSense was going to require a processor with AES-NI extensions to run in a future update. This sent many people to OpnSense. But they have since backed off on that requirement.
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Jul 1, 2020 15:23
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SwissArmyDruid posted:I'll save you a few bucks if you continue down the Edgerouter + Unifi AP route. The brand new wave 2 APs are powered by 45W 802.3f, far more than the 25W that my ER-X-SFP, at least, is capable of providing. Meaning you're selling something?
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Jul 1, 2020 16:54
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No, I'm keeping my stuff, just that I could have saved a buck going with the ER-4 instead, and I needed to make physical and outlet space for the POE injector. (on the other hand, I might be making use of the SFP port, looking at QNAP's 2020 line...)
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Jul 2, 2020 04:49
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My boss is too lazy and cheap to run some CAT6 in the house. I'm eyeing this Zyxel G.hn 2400 kit for powerline ethernet https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Pass-Thru-Homeplug-Ethernet-PLA6456KIT/dp/B07ZHQRQS5 - go or no go?
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Jul 2, 2020 14:25
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Nomyth posted:My boss is too lazy and cheap to run some CAT6 in the house. I'm eyeing this Zyxel G.hn 2400 kit for powerline ethernet https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Pass-Thru-Homeplug-Ethernet-PLA6456KIT/dp/B07ZHQRQS5 - go or no go? It's worth trying since it works for a lot of people. If you have issues make sure you buy it sold by Amazon so returns are easy. When I click your link it's a third party seller.
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Jul 2, 2020 15:14
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Rexxed posted:It's worth trying since it works for a lot of people. If you have issues make sure you buy it sold by Amazon so returns are easy. When I click your link it's a third party seller. Zyxel sells direct on amazon, if you want powerline sold by amazon you need to get tplink units
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Jul 2, 2020 18:10
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If you have coaxial in each room already consider MoCA 2.5
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Jul 2, 2020 23:16
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Biowarfare posted:If you have coaxial in each room already consider MoCA 2.5 Only two cable drops in the new house unfortunately, so hopefully the electrical breaker box plays nice instead
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Jul 2, 2020 23:56
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nerox posted:My Qotom device is going to be here next week. I am still deciding between opnsense and pfsense. Does anyone use opnsense here? I ordered a Qotom on Amazon on Monday, it shipped from China that day and was in my hands today.  I tried opnsense and I can't get my pppoe to connect with it at all and either the point to point log is broken or the pppoe just refused to try to connect. I played with it for 2 hours without success, so I am going to try pfsense.
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Jul 3, 2020 00:23
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nerox posted:I ordered a Qotom on Amazon on Monday, it shipped from China that day and was in my hands today. I used pfsense with AT&T DSL PPPoE some years ago (before the forced transition to the UVerse 802.11x system) I've also used it with Verizon PPPoE no problem. So unless your ISP is doing some weird poo poo it should work.
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Jul 3, 2020 03:28
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nerox posted:I ordered a Qotom on Amazon on Monday, it shipped from China that day and was in my hands today. Forgot to chime in, I use opnsense, its fine, it works, but I'm on gigabit fiber and only need to pull DHCP to connect. The most complicated thing I do with it is feeding the IP TV multicast to the DVR which requires an IGMP proxy service. The few times I've ever encountered PPPoE in the wild I've despised every packet of it, I imagine it isn't a well tested feature in either opnsense or pfsense.
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Jul 3, 2020 12:29
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