Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

FilthyImp posted:

:barf:
Man oh man.

So dumb question time!
My wife has a BMW i3 that's pretty well taken care of. I clay-barred it yesterday, and wanted to try the M27 hybrid sealant on it. No swirls so would it be ok to throw some Meguiars polish on, use a polish pad, wipe it down, and then seal?

Ayup. If there's no swirls or anything to correct, just wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol and go straight to M27.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
I have some pads for my polisher on the way so I figured I'd ask what my attack plan should be on this.







Some of the worst looking parts are mainly transfer but there are definitely scratches but I can't tell how deep they are. I have the chemical guys 4 pack of compound/polish.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

fknlo posted:

I have some pads for my polisher on the way so I figured I'd ask what my attack plan should be on this.







Some of the worst looking parts are mainly transfer but there are definitely scratches but I can't tell how deep they are. I have the chemical guys 4 pack of compound/polish.

Meg's UC and go to town with speed/pressure. That's about my favorite type of job, because the difference when you're done will be amazing.

FilthyImp
Sep 30, 2002

Anime Deviant

meatpimp posted:

Ayup. If there's no swirls or anything to correct, just wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol and go straight to M27.
Thanks!

It smells like candy? Huh. That was a nice surprise. I noticed it's not super slick like a fresh waxed car. Is that right?

PabloBOOM
Mar 10, 2004
Hunchback of DOOM
I could use some advice on this 10 year old BMW seat that has seen 130k of butts.


A general leather all-in-one thing helped clean it up a little, but I'd like to tackle those cracks/stretch marks. I'm dubious about all the leather conditioner products, but did get some leather specific paint that's a close enough match I'm going to try it. Is it worth trying any particular conditioner first with this much crinkling?

smooth jazz
May 13, 2010

Leatherique 2 step.
Never tried it myself but it seems to be the standard for this type of thing.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

smooth jazz posted:

Leatherique 2 step.
Never tried it myself but it seems to be the standard for this type of thing.

Agreed. Leatherique is the poo poo, I’ve used it to great effect.

PabloBOOM
Mar 10, 2004
Hunchback of DOOM
Awesome, ordered some and will report back. Relatively expensive stuff, but cheaper than buying some less worn junkyard seats!

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

Digital_Jesus posted:

So whats everyones go-to for foam/soap to do washes on a ceramic coat these days? I just had my ride PPF'd and Ceramic'd. Just something PH neutral? Adams / Chem Guys ?
I have no idea about this, but wanted to mention that I bought some chemical guys "orange degreaser" and it was super weak. Even undiluted and with tons of scrubbing with a brush it couldn't get all the dust and grime out of my rubber floor liners.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I have to agree with you on that. I bought some and they make a big thing about diluting it, but I even bought a proper spray bottle with markings that makes it easy to dilute and their orange degreaser was not very impressive on my bike's road grime. I upped the concentration and I still felt that my brush was doing way more work than the degreaser, but at least it smelled better than the O'Reilly's spray degreaser I bought.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Simple Green till I die.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

meatpimp posted:

Meg's UC and go to town with speed/pressure. That's about my favorite type of job, because the difference when you're done will be amazing.
Meguiar's UC is the tits for an off-the-shelf consumer product.



This was a quick manual application of it.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

Minto Took posted:

Simple Green till I die.
Word which one should I get?

Also this is on their homepage with zero context and I have many questions

TheBoyBlunder
Jul 3, 2004

Anyone else have the munchies?
I recently bought a 2018 toyota with low mileage and I live in a very sunny state. This car will basically be kept outside and as a result I'm concerned about UV damage to the paint. I have been told a few times to apply a ceramic coat which, fine, but I have questions.

I've been reading on application steps and I've seen the following most often:

wash, rinse, carefully towel dry with a lint free cloth.
clay bar the car to remove contaminants
use an IPA (1 or 2 parts isopropyl alcohol to 9 or 8 parts water) wipe down to remove any remaining contaminants
THEN apply the ceramic coating per instructions.

I'm a typical amateur when it comes to this stuff. I can wash, dry, wax, apply tire protectant and so on, but I've never used a clay bar and I've only just heard of an IPA wipedown.

As for a product, family have suggested this product as a ceramic coating from personal experience, but I'm open to suggestions:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D4NM5XM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Basic Questions:

1) Generally speaking, is a ceramic coating worth it? My specific concern is UV damage to the paint, and secondarily winter damage. It snows a fair amount in the winter, roads get mag-chloride and so on. I know ceramic coatings aren't impervious, but I just want to know if it's worth it for the concerns I have.

2) How much work in time is this to do it properly? I find a wash and wax and general cleaning takes about 4 to 5 hours if I take my time. Typically I see this takes 9 to 11 hours with the above product per reviews. I imagine it can vary based on the product.

3) How difficult, generally, is it to maintain a ceramic coating? This is specifically compared to simply getting generic car soap, washing a car every two weeks, then waxing it every three or so months. I consider a typical wash and wax about a 3 out of 10.

4) Are there any special things to note when taking care of a ceramic coating? Will I need to wash more frequently? Use a special soap? Apply some sort of "booster" spray? Use special wash tools?

5) Since I'm basically a weekend warrior and don't have any experience with more advanced detailing, would a ceramic wax of some sort be a better choice?

Questions regarding my car:

1) I bought through a dealer and their inspection report identified 6 or 7 paint chips on the car. I haven't gone hunting for them but still. Is it critical or even "very important" to try to touch those up first? If so, fine.

2) How do I spot these paint chips myself, and do you have any suggestions for marking them?

Application Questions:

Aside from following the manufacturer's directions for basic application, I have these questions.

1) I've never used a clay bar. Is it difficult to learn? Can I use something like a clay mitt or towel instead? Those seem less...particular, especially if I don't know what to do with a clay bar in the first place.

2) Is an IPA wipe down necessary? If it is, fine. Does someone have suggestions on what ratio of alcohol to distilled water to use? What sort of applicator or cloth should I use to wipe down with?

3) Do I need to both clay bar AND alcohol wipe?

4) I'm certain the answer to this is yes, it will reduce the lifespan of your coating, but I'm going to ask it anyway. If I skip the IPA wipe and/or the clay bar, will it reduce the lifespan of the coating? I'd like to do this as infrequently as possible. My only concern here is reducing the coating lifespan if I skip the clay bar step. I'm sure it's not difficult, but with covid-19 I'm trying to keep my distance as frequently as possible.

TheBoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 30, 2020

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

TheBoyBlunder posted:

I recently bought a 2018 toyota with low mileage and I live in a very sunny state. This car will basically be kept outside and as a result I'm concerned about UV damage to the paint. I have been told a few times to apply a ceramic coat which, fine, but I have questions.

I've been reading on application steps and I've seen the following most often:

wash, rinse, carefully towel dry with a lint free cloth.
clay bar the car to remove contaminants
use an IPA (1 or 2 parts isopropyl alcohol to 9 or 8 parts water) wipe down to remove any remaining contaminants
THEN apply the ceramic coating per instructions.

I'm a typical amateur when it comes to this stuff. I can wash, dry, wax, apply tire protectant and so on, but I've never used a clay bar and I've only just heard of an IPA wipedown.

As for a product, family have suggested this product as a ceramic coating from personal experience, but I'm open to suggestions:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D4NM5XM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Basic Questions:

1) Generally speaking, is a ceramic coating worth it? My specific concern is UV damage to the paint, and secondarily winter damage. It snows a fair amount in the winter, roads get mag-chloride and so on. I know ceramic coatings aren't impervious, but I just want to know if it's worth it for the concerns I have.

2) How much work in time is this to do it properly? I find a wash and wax and general cleaning takes about 4 to 5 hours if I take my time. Typically I see this takes 9 to 11 hours with the above product per reviews. I imagine it can vary based on the product.

3) How difficult, generally, is it to maintain a ceramic coating? This is specifically compared to simply getting generic car soap, washing a car every two weeks, then waxing it every three or so months. I consider a typical wash and wax about a 3 out of 10.

4) Are there any special things to note when taking care of a ceramic coating? Will I need to wash more frequently? Use a special soap? Apply some sort of "booster" spray? Use special wash tools?

5) Since I'm basically a weekend warrior and don't have any experience with more advanced detailing, would a ceramic wax of some sort be a better choice?

Questions regarding my car:

1) I bought through a dealer and their inspection report identified 6 or 7 paint chips on the car. I haven't gone hunting for them but still. Is it critical or even "very important" to try to touch those up first? If so, fine.

2) How do I spot these paint chips myself, and do you have any suggestions for marking them?

Application Questions:

Aside from following the manufacturer's directions for basic application, I have these questions.

1) I've never used a clay bar. Is it difficult to learn? Can I use something like a clay mitt or towel instead? Those seem less...particular, especially if I don't know what to do with a clay bar in the first place.

2) Is an IPA wipe down necessary? If it is, fine. Does someone have suggestions on what ratio of alcohol to distilled water to use? What sort of applicator or cloth should I use to wipe down with?

3) Do I need to both clay bar AND alcohol wipe?

4) I'm certain the answer to this is yes, it will reduce the lifespan of your coating, but I'm going to ask it anyway. If I skip the IPA wipe and/or the clay bar, will it reduce the lifespan of the coating? I'd like to do this as infrequently as possible. My only concern here is reducing the coating lifespan if I skip the clay bar step. I'm sure it's not difficult, but with covid-19 I'm trying to keep my distance as frequently as possible.

A couple brief thoughts --

Clay bar is to remove stuck-on impurities. IPA wipe is to get any residual remnants of product off. Both have a role.

I use straight 90% IPA, which is huge overkill. I'd say a 50/50 mix of 90% IPA would be fine, maybe even half again. However, 9-to-1 sounds pretty darned diluted.

What color is your car? Dark colors are going to be much less forgiving with the ceramic coating, so pay close attention.

Regarding skipping prep -- if you do that, what's the point in applying a ceramic coating in the first place?

Coated car should need washed less often and be easier to clean when washing.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Also you can use synthetic clay and it's a lot easier than dealing with a real clay bar.

Re: finding the paint chips, if you don't notice them while washing the car then I wouldn't spend too long looking for them. The idea behind all the prep is a ceramic coat is like another clear coat, it's staying on for a long time until it wears off or you polish it off, so if you don't have things perfect, you're locking in the imperfections. If you wash, clay, and IPA wipedown the car and you think it looks as good as you want it to and would like to lock down that look, then just go ahead and all the ceramic coating.

TheBoyBlunder
Jul 3, 2004

Anyone else have the munchies?

meatpimp posted:

A couple brief thoughts --

Clay bar is to remove stuck-on impurities. IPA wipe is to get any residual remnants of product off. Both have a role.

I use straight 90% IPA, which is huge overkill. I'd say a 50/50 mix of 90% IPA would be fine, maybe even half again. However, 9-to-1 sounds pretty darned diluted.

What color is your car? Dark colors are going to be much less forgiving with the ceramic coating, so pay close attention.

Regarding skipping prep -- if you do that, what's the point in applying a ceramic coating in the first place?

Coated car should need washed less often and be easier to clean when washing.

Dilution - thanks for the suggestion, I just saw too many “oh this will ruin your paint!!1!” posts on other forums to be sure. I’ll probably step it up to 2 or 3 parts alcohol to 8 or 7 parts water and apply gingerly.

Car color - it’s white. So very white. Since it’s a new car to me it feels like a rental car but I’ll get used to it. I’ll keep note of the “forgiveness” of ceramic coatings for any future dark color cars.

Prep - I figured, “just do the prep or why bother?” I have family that skipped the prep and they said “oh it probably doesn’t matter, I skipped it and it’s fine.” :raise:

Sure it is.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

So I've got a peeling (or disappearing) clear coat issue on my Jeep and ran across this product looking at videos on how to make it look better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1fPCSTUwV0

Is there a better way to do this, and/or something else off an auto parts store counter I can use instead?

I have a cheap Harbor freight buffer so I'm open to any better ideas.

savesthedayrocks
Mar 18, 2004
This is my plan for my Land Cruiser.

https://youtu.be/lbSIjsUeWZQ

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Applebees Appetizer posted:

So I've got a peeling (or disappearing) clear coat issue on my Jeep and ran across this product looking at videos on how to make it look better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1fPCSTUwV0

Is there a better way to do this, and/or something else off an auto parts store counter I can use instead?

I have a cheap Harbor freight buffer so I'm open to any better ideas.

That just looks like a hack. Base coats are meant for clear over top, anything else is a kludge.


savesthedayrocks posted:

This is my plan for my Land Cruiser.

https://youtu.be/lbSIjsUeWZQ

2K clear is the way to go.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



2k clear is my plan too for one of my bikes, but make sure to wear a respirator

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

meatpimp posted:

That just looks like a hack. Base coats are meant for clear over top, anything else is a kludge.

Yeah I get that it's a hack, but it's better than nothing until I decide to clear coat it or paint it.

What can I get over the counter that's basically the same thing that guy is pedaling?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Yeah I get that it's a hack, but it's better than nothing until I decide to clear coat it or paint it.

What can I get over the counter that's basically the same thing that guy is pedaling?

It's probably got a silicone base, so if you use it, you'd have to do a full sand and repeat, 2k clear won't stick.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I think what i'm gonna do is just try to get all the loose peeling clear coat off and then just compound/polish the whole thing and use some of the turtle wax seal n shine I just got to seal it up.

Then later down the road re clearcoat or just spray the whole thing with Raptor Liner

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





On the plus side, I think the TJ might be one of the easiest vehicles to strip to "ready for paint" ever.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:


Best option.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

On the plus side, I think the TJ might be one of the easiest vehicles to strip to "ready for paint" ever.

Yeah so I'm not too worried, any DIY option should be relatively easy. Plus I have a car port and can just hang some plastic to make a booth so why not.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I've got a few paint chips on my hood and other places. The touch up paint thing from toyota is like a double ended pen.
Paint at one end clear on the other.

The chips are kinda small and doing the recommended "dabbing" with the paint pen makes it look worse. If I just dispense some paint on a piece of plastic or cardboard, what, besides an actual small-rear end paint brush would work or could work as a suitable substitute for a brush or brush like device?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
A toothpick.

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

wesleywillis posted:

I've got a few paint chips on my hood and other places. The touch up paint thing from toyota is like a double ended pen.
Paint at one end clear on the other.

The chips are kinda small and doing the recommended "dabbing" with the paint pen makes it look worse. If I just dispense some paint on a piece of plastic or cardboard, what, besides an actual small-rear end paint brush would work or could work as a suitable substitute for a brush or brush like device?

You can get a little tool which is a cup with a needle on it, on a stick, I guess you’d say. Put paint in the cup, hold the stick and dab the needle bit on the stone chip and it will put paint into the chip. There is an AMMO video with one IIRC.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Here4DaGangBang posted:

You can get a little tool which is a cup with a needle on it, on a stick, I guess you’d say. Put paint in the cup, hold the stick and dab the needle bit on the stone chip and it will put paint into the chip. There is an AMMO video with one IIRC.

That was this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uz-zW-cLdUs

He has a newer video with some other options too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLJnqiBxKtg

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Okay, tomorrow I'm gonna hand wash for the first time. I bought

* clean bucket, dirt bucket w grit guard
* Meguiars shampoo
* Far too many wash mittens because I was late-night shopping
* giant-rear end microfibre drying cloth
* Meguiars spray wax
* a couple of Meguiars microfibre cloths to apply and dry off the wax (again, late-night spending spree)



I don't have a place at home to wash so I'll dry to a car washing box nearby. I will

* get the car wet everywhere with the pressure washer
* figure out how to fill my clean shampoo bucket bucket awkwardly with the pressure washer
* use the wash mittens to wipe off every panel, in straight motions, without applying pressure, and cleaning the mittens in the dirt bucket
* when I can't see any dirt anymore, I'm gonna dry off
* spray a bit of wax on, very gently distribute with microfibre cloth and buff off remains


This about right?

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
you should do a two bucket method for washing, one for clean soapy water and the second one with the grit guard for dirty water

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Every pay n spray car wash I've ever visited says "No Bucket Washing" but I've never seen anyone to enforce it.

If you have lids for the buckets you could fill them in the sink and take them with you.

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Yeah I have two buckets, one clean one dirt with grid guard


I've asked the place, they're okay with it

I'll also go relatively late hoping there's less traffic then

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

My car is clean and shiny and I did not gently caress it up

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Have any folks here done some shadetree spray boxes? I'm thinking about airflow, and to me it seems easiest to have the air sucked out of the back of the box, but doing that would mean overspray hitting the fan and gunking it up.

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!
Put a furnace filter in front of it. When I shadetree sprayed I used a 24x24ish filter for intake and exhaust and it seemed to work alright.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

fknlo posted:

I have some pads for my polisher on the way so I figured I'd ask what my attack plan should be on this.







Some of the worst looking parts are mainly transfer but there are definitely scratches but I can't tell how deep they are. I have the chemical guys 4 pack of compound/polish.

Finally got around to this. I've never done anything beyond simple paint correction, so I'm not sure how much better I can get it. Album here

Highlights:

Before doing anything





After:

It was hard to capture the remaining scratches.



The final result is slightly better than that



The ones below the body line are still the most visible by far. How much better can I get that? I feel like I went to town with UC to get that result.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Lord Stimperor posted:

Okay, tomorrow I'm gonna hand wash for the first time. I bought

* clean bucket, dirt bucket w grit guard
* Meguiars shampoo
* Far too many wash mittens because I was late-night shopping
* giant-rear end microfibre drying cloth
* Meguiars spray wax
* a couple of Meguiars microfibre cloths to apply and dry off the wax (again, late-night spending spree)



I don't have a place at home to wash so I'll dry to a car washing box nearby. I will

* get the car wet everywhere with the pressure washer
* figure out how to fill my clean shampoo bucket bucket awkwardly with the pressure washer
* use the wash mittens to wipe off every panel, in straight motions, without applying pressure, and cleaning the mittens in the dirt bucket
* when I can't see any dirt anymore, I'm gonna dry off
* spray a bit of wax on, very gently distribute with microfibre cloth and buff off remains


This about right?

Yeah.

I spent a couple years doing bucket washes at the diy car wash. It was ok and sucked at the same time. My only advice from the experience is don't sweat the small stuff and if you have a friend with a hose, use that a couple times a year for the through wash/clay/wax.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply