Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)

originalnickname posted:

That's a pretty boat! I've got a 2005 X7 currently and I really like (almost) everything about it. Except for how low in the water it sits, now that everyone on my lake's got 200,000+ dollar wakesurfing boats that throw some pretty huge rollers.

Do you pull skiers? If so, how do you find the wake with the motor farther back at ski speeds?

I still waterski because I'm old, but I kinda want to find a taller boat so it doesn't feel like a wakesurfer is going to swamp me when they drive by, and your boat looks like it probably wouldn't have this problem.

Obviously this would help with wakeboarding and wakesurfing, but I'd really like to hear how it is when you pull a skier if possible..
I picked it up at the end of last season so haven't really done anything with it yet. I used to ski some, but that was a long time ago. Wakeboarded a little more. So far all i've done is pulled my kids on their tubes and trainer skis.

It's an x14v, which is just a V-drive version of the prostar 214, so it doesn't have a ton of freeboard, though still more than most DDs. It allegedly has basically the best V-drive ski wake (sport nautique 200 also good, probably a couple others), but I've actually never skied behind a direct drive inboard so I won't have anything to compare it to.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer
Pulled my boat out of the water thus morning due to Cristobal. High tide isn't for another 3 hours, but my t-top would have definitely hit the top of the boathouse.

n0tqu1tesane fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jun 7, 2020

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Storm surge is nuts, how much clearance do you normally have?

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Big Taint posted:

Storm surge is nuts, how much clearance do you normally have?

Depending on tides, but generally 3-4 ft. Was down to a foot when I pulled it out.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

A few years ago a small sailboat came off its anchor and drifted under somebody’s deck, and just got pummeled under there. I saw it at the dock afterward, rig was gone and all the stanchions were splayed out in a really funny way. I’m glad it wasn’t my problem.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer
We're about an hour past high tide and the water is still rising.

Kurten
May 28, 2001

100% less banned. 50% more sober. 0% less bitter. NOW WITH LOWER BLOOD PRESSURE!

skinner posted:

Yeah I do think there is some ingrained seamanship in Maine, either that or you learn hard and fast.

It's possible and I would agree with that explanation. The inland lakes though are still an absolute poo poo show in the summer, but to be fair its mostly flatlanders doing the most comedy dumb poo poo. God help anyone who goes to sebago or down to winni on a busy summer weekend.

gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)

gvibes posted:

I picked it up at the end of last season so haven't really done anything with it yet. I used to ski some, but that was a long time ago. Wakeboarded a little more. So far all i've done is pulled my kids on their tubes and trainer skis.

It's an x14v, which is just a V-drive version of the prostar 214, so it doesn't have a ton of freeboard, though still more than most DDs. It allegedly has basically the best V-drive ski wake (sport nautique 200 also good, probably a couple others), but I've actually never skied behind a direct drive inboard so I won't have anything to compare it to.
Update - almost got swamped by a surf wave from a huge, new mastercraft. Holy poo poo that was crazy. Look elsewhere, I guess.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy
Loved to get rocked by some wake boat just cruising by 200 yards away


And my wife officially hates sailing. Oh well, boat’s for the boys

originalnickname
Mar 9, 2005

tree

gvibes posted:

Update - almost got swamped by a surf wave from a huge, new mastercraft. Holy poo poo that was crazy. Look elsewhere, I guess.

Ugh. Thanks for the update, anyway. Nothing like having to nose into wakes under power like i'm trying to survive hurricane waves or something. I think I'm getting old.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Ok, so I have now an 18 ft. runabout with a MerCruiser 140hp/3.0L. I’ve finally got it running well and tested gps speed at 37 mph. However, the rpms via the tachometer were at 2000 rpm. I think it’s a 19 pitch prop, still need to confirm. There’s virtually no way the tachometer is correct, right?

Edit: I changed to a Pertronix II electronic ignition setup and ditched the points. Might be the issue.

wallaka fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Jun 21, 2020

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

wallaka posted:

Ok, so I have now an 18 ft. runabout with a MerCruiser 140hp/3.0L. I’ve finally got it running well and tested gps speed at 37 mph. However, the rpms via the tachometer were at 2000 rpm. I think it’s a 19 pitch prop, still need to confirm. There’s virtually no way the tachometer is correct, right?

Edit: I changed to a Pertronix II electronic ignition setup and ditched the points. Might be the issue.

Tach might be set for a two stroke (or something with waste spark) and halving the rpm number it displays. You can probably tell 2000 from 4000 rpm by ear as a sanity check.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Cat Hatter posted:

Tach might be set for a two stroke (or something with waste spark) and halving the rpm number it displays. You can probably tell 2000 from 4000 rpm by ear as a sanity check.

Nah, it's the stock tach. It's just 40 years old I guess. The tach is accurate at idle (500 rpm) and doesn't skip or hang that I can tell. It does move a couple hundred rpm when I trim the drive and it corresponds with what I'm hearing. Weirdness.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Perhaps the signal from the old ignition was a different voltage from the new one, and the tach isn't calibrated for it? Or the wiring is just old and crusty and something is getting lost between the engine and the gauge?

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
Not a boat, but I have an 80's GM car that the tach reads only a bit fast at idle (950-1000rpm at actually 800rpm, verified by a scan tool), and then gets farther and farther off the higher RPMs get. I think it reads something like 6k at 4k. Has to do with a bad resistor on the tach driver circuitry.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

wallaka posted:

Ok, so I have now an 18 ft. runabout with a MerCruiser 140hp/3.0L. I’ve finally got it running well and tested gps speed at 37 mph. However, the rpms via the tachometer were at 2000 rpm. I think it’s a 19 pitch prop, still need to confirm. There’s virtually no way the tachometer is correct, right?

Edit: I changed to a Pertronix II electronic ignition setup and ditched the points. Might be the issue.

As to your original question, if we plug in the numbers you gave and assume a 2.00 gear ratio as is common on a Mercruiser alpha one mated to a 3.0L, then we get a prop slip of -106%. So either you were driving down a waterfall or your tach is about 3000 rpm low.

... If you have an outboard I still wouldn't expect the gear ratio to be wildly different.

Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jun 21, 2020

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Cat Hatter posted:

As to your original question, if we plug in the numbers you gave and assume a 2.00 gear ratio as is common on a Mercruiser alpha one mated to a 3.0L, then we get a prop slip of -106%. So either you were driving down a waterfall or your tach is about 3000 rpm low.

... If you have an outboard I still wouldn't expect the gear ratio to be wildly different.

I did some research and it should be pushing 4200-4500 rpm at that speed with the prop I have. If I had about a 38 pitch prop and 1000 torques the rpm numbers would make sense. Welp, I need to fix the gas gauge anyway. This definitely makes me want to screw in some mechanical oil pressure and water temperature gauges though!

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

So I'm possibly purchasing a 36' center cockpit sloop. The only issue is that all of the deck paint is like... flaking? The whole deck will need to be stripped and repainted. So, my questions are:

*What is the order for primer/laquer etc
*Are there any brands of deck paint I should avoid? Any I should look for?
*Any tips for the non skid?
*Should I be looking into doing teak strips? Why or why not?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Are you doing it yourself? Kiwigrip is cool, easy to apply, you can choose the aggressiveness of the nonskid, relatively durable.

Paying someone else to do it? Awlgrip. Expensive, complicated, but a pro will know what to do and it’s pretty much the best out there.

PO probably used a cheap single-part paint like Brightsides that looks ok for a couple years and then peels off.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy
Is the deck just non-skid gelcoat and glass? Or is there teak down already?


If it's just fiberglass and there aren't any issues (wet coreing) you would prime and then top coat. KiwiGrip is one of the big names, but pretty much every paint manufacturer makes a deck paint and then you can mix in rubber sand for extra traction. General gist of the job will be to sand, sand, sand (down to a solid substrate), fix defects and fair, sand again, them prime, color coat, add traction media and coat again twice.

Andy at Boatworks Today has covered this a couple of times, recently with a paint called 'AlexSeal. Technique is the same for all paint.


Teak is beautiful, but expensive- in material, time and maintenance. I wouldn't be surprised if re-doing teak on a 36'er was a 5-digit project. If you like the look, there are also laser cut, adhesive backed foam deck coverings (HydroDeck is one brand) that can look teak-ish

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Big Taint posted:

Are you doing it yourself? Kiwigrip is cool, easy to apply, you can choose the aggressiveness of the nonskid, relatively durable.

Paying someone else to do it? Awlgrip. Expensive, complicated, but a pro will know what to do and it’s pretty much the best out there.

PO probably used a cheap single-part paint like Brightsides that looks ok for a couple years and then peels off.

Definitely doing it myself. PO used something called treadmaster in "the 90s" and it's definitely not something I want to try again.

monsterzero posted:

Is the deck just non-skid gelcoat and glass? Or is there teak down already?


If it's just fiberglass and there aren't any issues (wet coreing) you would prime and then top coat. KiwiGrip is one of the big names, but pretty much every paint manufacturer makes a deck paint and then you can mix in rubber sand for extra traction. General gist of the job will be to sand, sand, sand (down to a solid substrate), fix defects and fair, sand again, them prime, color coat, add traction media and coat again twice.

Andy at Boatworks Today has covered this a couple of times, recently with a paint called 'AlexSeal. Technique is the same for all paint.


Teak is beautiful, but expensive- in material, time and maintenance. I wouldn't be surprised if re-doing teak on a 36'er was a 5-digit project. If you like the look, there are also laser cut, adhesive backed foam deck coverings (HydroDeck is one brand) that can look teak-ish

Just glass, no teak. And the decks are good structurally.

I do like the look, but it also gets hot and takes a certain amount of extended maintenance. I had seen the look-alike things advertised but I admittedly don't know enough about them.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy

Karma Comedian posted:

Definitely doing it myself...

...that effectivly eliminates teak.

Karma Comedian posted:


Just glass, no teak. And the decks are good structurally.

I do like the look, but it also gets hot and takes a certain amount of extended maintenance. I had seen the look-alike things advertised but I admittedly don't know enough about them.

Good deal, the foam decking seems pretty popular with center console fishing people. The nicer installs seem to come from companies that have templates for the boat already and they CNC the panels and detail work. Rolls are also available for DIY, but I've only worked with small pieces (covering removed hardware and under hardware that bangs on the deck) and I feel like there's going to be a lot of trial and error involved in bigger runs. I'd also imagine the price is going to be more than doing it in Kiwigrip.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Treadmaster is stick-on stuff, I think? Ya it’s easy to put on and works pretty well, but when it starts to peel it looks baaaad. It’s kinda pricey though.

What you use partly depends on your comfort working with paints. The video above uses Alexseal, which is a two-part paint similar to Awlgrip. Great stuff, but there are lots of components to it that make it super versatile but also easy to gently caress up if you get something wrong.

Prep is 90% of a paint job, one advantage of the Kiwigrip is it’s so thick it’ll hide just about anything.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy
^^^ That is true. Also Boatworks Today has probably covered just about every marine product on the market, so give them a search and you'll probably see the differences in application and results.


And a question:
I'm going to add a topping lift and lazy jacks to my C22 soon. I think I'm up to 9 pieces of hardware to mount to the spars. I've been using #10 taps for boom hardware so far, but this will be a lot of holes and I'm always worried about loving up. I'm thinking about picking up a rivet gun and some aluminum rivets. Advice or recommendations?

Crunchy Black
Oct 24, 2017

by Athanatos
Why do you hate your mainsail that much?

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy

Crunchy Black posted:

Why do you hate your mainsail that much?

I'm rather fond of it TBH, but dropping it solo is a pain in the rear end. Why do you ask?

Crunchy Black
Oct 24, 2017

by Athanatos

monsterzero posted:

I'm rather fond of it TBH, but dropping it solo is a pain in the rear end. Why do you ask?

Mostly just being a dick, it would be unthinkable for me to put jacks on anything sub 30 foot but I also don't single hand.

In all seriousness, hopefully putting alu rivets into a steel mast wouldn't cause corrosion issues?

Erwin
Feb 17, 2006

Are sailboat trailers built specific to a boat, or are they adjustable? We've been thinking about buying a trailerable boat, leaning towards Catalina 25 for the space and parts availability, but the majority of the Catalina 25s we find for sale don't come with a trailer. I'm wondering if we need to find a Catalina 25-specific trailer, or just a trailer with the right weight capacity.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy

Crunchy Black posted:

Mostly just being a dick, it would be unthinkable for me to put jacks on anything sub 30 foot but I also don't single hand.

In all seriousness, hopefully putting alu rivets into a steel mast wouldn't cause corrosion issues?
Goons gotta goon. Mast and boom are aluminum, so no worries there. Hell, I'm driving SS machine screws into it now so eh. I wouldn't have bothered, but my new main is loose-footed, so it is kind of a bitch to flake. This Stingy guy has a system that lets the jacks get pulled to the mast when not catching the sail, so they should stay out of the way.

Erwin posted:

Are sailboat trailers built specific to a boat, or are they adjustable? We've been thinking about buying a trailerable boat, leaning towards Catalina 25 for the space and parts availability, but the majority of the Catalina 25s we find for sale don't come with a trailer. I'm wondering if we need to find a Catalina 25-specific trailer, or just a trailer with the right weight capacity.
Everything is adjustable with a grinder and welder. There's a reason most of those boats aren't coming on-trailer... I have a Catalina 22 and have gotten the stepping/dropping down but it's still an affair, and would be even worse if there was 5' of spar off beyond my masthead. I'd say that the 25 is trailer-able in a 'pull out at the end of the season' sense and not a 'launch, sail and drive it home at the end of the day' sense.

There are multiple kinds of trailer setups. My C22 rides on a pair of bunks (and the swing keel rests on crossbeam) - trailers like that are going to be boat specific. Other trailers, especially for fixed-keel boats will have the boat ride on it's keel, and then use boat jack like supports to keep it upright. Those are probably going to be more forgiving.

Erwin
Feb 17, 2006

monsterzero posted:

Everything is adjustable with a grinder and welder. There's a reason most of those boats aren't coming on-trailer... I have a Catalina 22 and have gotten the stepping/dropping down but it's still an affair, and would be even worse if there was 5' of spar off beyond my masthead. I'd say that the 25 is trailer-able in a 'pull out at the end of the season' sense and not a 'launch, sail and drive it home at the end of the day' sense.

There are multiple kinds of trailer setups. My C22 rides on a pair of bunks (and the swing keel rests on crossbeam) - trailers like that are going to be boat specific. Other trailers, especially for fixed-keel boats will have the boat ride on it's keel, and then use boat jack like supports to keep it upright. Those are probably going to be more forgiving.

We're about an hour from the upper Chesapeake, so it could eventually live in the water, but if it needs work we want the option to park it in the driveway instead of hauling tools to the marina only to forget something.

We're looking for swing keels. Needing to weld isn't what I was hoping - if we decide to buy a boat that doesn't have a trailer, I don't think we'd have a ton of time between closing the deal and sourcing a trailer unless we can take over payment on a slip, but I've never bought a boat so I'm not sure what to expect.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Karma Comedian posted:

So I'm possibly purchasing a 36' center cockpit sloop. The only issue is that all of the deck paint is like... flaking? The whole deck will need to be stripped and repainted. So, my questions are:

*What is the order for primer/laquer etc
*Are there any brands of deck paint I should avoid? Any I should look for?
*Any tips for the non skid?
*Should I be looking into doing teak strips? Why or why not?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

The problem with repainting your deck is that if you're gonna do it right, then aaaallllll your deck hardware has to come off before you sand, and then prime/paint, wait for it to cure, do the next 2-3 coats etc etc... Then you have to take your janky rear end looking, 35 year old hardware and mount it on your new deck. Which means you're going to want to polish and clean it all.

Mostly it's the removal and reinstall of all the hardware that's a bitch and a half. Most of those fasteners haven't moved in three decades and you need a second person on the other side of the deck. Each thing is usually held down with 4 bolts, which is hundreds of bolts, some of which are stripped, or behind interior panels that are glued in place etc

I'm not trying to dissuade you from this, it's widely known that repainting the deck (properly) is one of the most time consuming boat restoration jobs you can do

Or you could just wrap tape around all the deck hardware and paint that way. It ends up looking super janky. It's why we haven't repainted the deck of my mom's boat yet

Check out the YouTube series "sail life" where this Danish software developer nerd has been rebuilding his 38' boat for the last 3 years. He's using PPE sigmadur 550 two part paint and primer system with great results, and it's not too crazy expensive

For nonskid, use kiwigrip. Find a friend who's used it before to get the correct amount of grippiness. In general when it dries it's usually 2x as grippy as you think it is when it's wet, especially as a first timer

Crunchy Black
Oct 24, 2017

by Athanatos

Erwin posted:

Are sailboat trailers built specific to a boat, or are they adjustable? We've been thinking about buying a trailerable boat, leaning towards Catalina 25 for the space and parts availability, but the majority of the Catalina 25s we find for sale don't come with a trailer. I'm wondering if we need to find a Catalina 25-specific trailer, or just a trailer with the right weight capacity.

Most lake/wet launch trailers have adjustable pads. You can identify this by it looking like they have levers/t-handles at the top and the upper portions of the pad supports being threaded. Then you can adjust to fit. Realistically, any trailer for a 24/25ish foot boat will be able to launch/retrieve it at that rate, but I wouldn't take a boat on the highway on a trailer that wasn't reasonably designed for it.

seance snacks
Mar 30, 2007

hello thread, just bought a 30' S2 after two years of saving and planning :agesilaus:

any other Chesapeake cruisers around?

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
Hello boat thread--didn't know you existed.

While I catch up on this thread is there an SA watersports thread that has to do with having fun on actual water versus NSFW?

And I guess more specifically is anyone getting into foiling and/or e-foils? Was $20K for an e-foil a few years ago, now folks are DIYing them for $4Kish and less. Not having tried an e-foil yet, the notion of blasting across the lake at 20mph on a battery powered foil appeals to me far more than a jetski. Just not sure how stable the average ride will be--wipeouts with foils are never fun....

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Are you talking about an electric surfboard with a foil

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!

Hadlock posted:

Are you talking about an electric surfboard with a foil

Yes indeed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL2W6ECDogE

The top part isn't as important as what rides under the water--can be surf board or boogie board. Figuring out the components, what costs what, and where to source. Hoping to start a build in the Fall and be riding next Spring.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
:stare: Holy poo poo that looks loving mental. I want one!

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

There's a truckload of foiling surfboard videos on YouTube if anyone is interested

I had to commute across SF Bay which is ~7 miles and I remember doing napkin math, crunching the payback time required because these things typically have a 14 mile one way range and it costs about $10 to cross the bay one way using public transit. There's a bunch of commercial options now for $5k. SF Bay is pretty rough with all the short chop but foiling kiteboarders seem to do ok here.

Looks like these have a pretty steep learning curve if you've only been on a paddle board once or twice, but yeah looks pretty rad

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

I played around with a foil board (not electric) when I was in Egypt last autumn. I've done a bit of standup paddleboarding and waterskiing, but the foil board was tricky to learn and I never quite got the hang of it.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
Have been waiting on a few of the foil boards Liquid Force offers to arrive. They aren't powered, but we'll see how they are to ride. If I can figure out how to pump the foil to move between wakes by September, I'll drop the cash on the e-foil parts and build one over the winter. My biggest concern are the wipeouts. Every one of the videos talks about getting away from the board when you fall and the danger of trying to save the ride. I hang around some very coordinated people, unfortunately that does not appear to be a talent one can learn by watching based on my list of injuries. Just don't want to add foil to the head/neck/spine to the list...

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply