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I'm going down the mini split road as well. They aren't very expensive and if you have the tools to replace an AC compressor in a car you likely have the tools to install a mini-split. I haven't updated in a long time. Here's about two years worth of progress. Here is where we left things:  Epoxied the floors with Armorpoxy. Holding up 2 years later fine. If it's going to see brake fluid spills spring for the 2 part epoxy top coat.  Insulated about 1/2 the walls and put up some drywall so I could hang cabinets/place shelves.   Finished up cabinets, plumbed the compressor into the in-wall piping. There will be pegboard all along the wall there so my mediocre drywall ability will be appropriately hidden.  Didn't do all that much for about a year after that. I built the center section of the lift 'plug' pretty quick since it was pretty non-optional. Finished up the plug finally. You can see the stains from the brake fluid, doesn't seem to have affected the epoxy, but it discolored/burned the top coat.  Wrote a check to finish the drywall because there are very few thing worse than hanging 5/8 drywall.  Painted the walls. Ceiling and some other bits need to be finished soon. That's going to wait for the fall or AC.  About how things stand today. Slowly moving things back in from the house garage where they sat to avoid the drywall mess. Have some 2x8' wall shelving on order as well as some filters/driers to see if I can get pretty dry air out of my compressor for filling tires. 
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Jul 7, 2020 19:00
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I realized I never really thought about posting in this thread... Taking photos of my garage is a bit difficult considering the amount of stuff that lives within it. I was combing thru my imgur and thought, I've got enough content to post in the thread! a bit of a back story. My grandparents purchased my house in 1947 from the original owner that had lived there for 10 years. It was built in 37 on the former site of a orange orchard in the San Fernando Valley. My mom and uncle grew up here, and my cousins and I as well. In 97 my grandfather passed and my grandmother lived up until 2008 - by then I was out on my own and my mom rented out the house for a short time, then made the decision to renovate it and give it an add-on and live in it herself. She lived here until I sadly lost her in 2015, and I had to make the decision to get rid of my own home, and move in to the old family home. with that decision came the fact that my grandfathers garage, where I learned so much about everything was now my own garage. The house I was in previously had a model t style garage that was good for nothing but storage, so moving from that to a 2 car big garage had plenty of appeal to me. I had always stuck close to home and my life is here in LA, so I knew what I was getting in to. When I got in to my home, I opened the garage and there was a wall of stuff, no possible way for a car to fit inside. after about a year of cleaning and 4-5 garage sales, and a massive amount of trash and donations, I was finally able to get a car in the garage. This photo from 2015 is the first time a car had been in the garage since 1999 when my grandmother gave up her car and license  the age of the garage was really personified by its fittings:  My grandfather was 110% a product of the depression era, he started as a machinist at Douglas Aircraft in 1937 at the age of 26 - by the time he was forced to retire in the late 70s, he was head of procurement, had a top secret clearance and was instrumental the company in so many ways - held within the garage was a lot of his tools... that hadn't been pillaged by my cousins  So I started brining my stuff home    things were beginning to fill up quickly in addition to the house, my mom also added a guest house on to the garage- leaving one wall stripped of its original tar paper and real dimension 2x4 framing - so I got some flat black paint and scenic painted the wall to look correct. I have to tell people about it, otherwise it goes unnoticed  Things were really starting to take shape:  and it felt good to start working on projects in the same way I used to with my grandpa when I was a kid.  and to be using his tools:  more and more full it got:  lighting is probably my favorite part  My collection of vintage tools grew as well, this is a 1954 DeWalt Power Shop Radial arm saw - someone had the nerve to throw this thing away! their loss... the thing works amazingly.   in addition, you can see in some of the pics, I also have 1940s craftsman band saw, drill press, bench grinder and a table saw - all matching era - the table saw was my grandfathers, everything else I found over the years. the spot right outside of the garage door is my main work area for the other cars aside from the model a   this stuff finds me...               some of my friends have the same problem I do...  in recent days I've been developing the area behind the garage as well, this is about an 8' x 30' space that has a thick tree canopy overhead and this cool old awning set up. - I have yet another kennedy box and some other cool storage back there - I've been finding myself working on stuff back there recently too. the ultimate goal with this area is to turn it in to the facade' of a vintage gas station but it would truly be just a storage shed/aux workshop. If there's interest I'll take some more pics of my progress back there soon.  I've got a few more tricks up my sleeve with the garage tho, I've been designing some new more period correct garage doors for awhile now, and now with all this time on my hands I want to make it happen! 
LobsterboyX fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jul 17, 2020 |
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Jul 17, 2020 07:02
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Continue...  Also radial arm saws.. my grandpa used his regularly but be damned if I can think of a use for one. My sliding compound miter does 90% of everything and a table or (gasp) skillsaw does the rest.
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Jul 17, 2020 07:41
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LBX all your stuff is just cool as hell. That OA5599 plate definitely caught my eye, though.
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Jul 17, 2020 13:49
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slidebite posted:Continue... The radial arm saw is just an older more complicated compound miter saw - this product "the power shop" was marketed as an all in 1 kind of thing - the head of it can be articulated quite a bit. the original literature has some pretty sketchy "ideas" in it including a man walking a 4x8 sheet across it with the blade faced out towards his stomach. It also shows that its highly portable sitting in the trunk of a 53 chevy - i found that funny when I tried to lift the thing by myself. I recently used the power shop for building a new fence, I had it set up in a few different ways and I found it to be pretty drat good for ripping and chopping up 4x4's Boaz MacPhereson posted:LBX all your stuff is just cool as hell. That OA5599 plate definitely caught my eye, though. could you just drive this car across country for me.. Kowalski?
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Jul 17, 2020 17:49
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LobsterboyX posted:The radial arm saw is just an older more complicated compound miter saw - this product "the power shop" was marketed as an all in 1 kind of thing - the head of it can be articulated quite a bit. the original literature has some pretty sketchy "ideas" in it including a man walking a 4x8 sheet across it with the blade faced out towards his stomach. It also shows that its highly portable sitting in the trunk of a 53 chevy - i found that funny when I tried to lift the thing by myself. I recently used the power shop for building a new fence, I had it set up in a few different ways and I found it to be pretty drat good for ripping and chopping up 4x4's I'll have it there by Sunday.  Edit: Seriously though, where'd you get that plate? Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jul 17, 2020 |
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Jul 17, 2020 21:34
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So if you notice theres plenty of Easter egg plates in the garage - every year https://celebritymachines.com/ has a black friday sale.. and every year I seem to spend 100 or so -
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Jul 18, 2020 06:52
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I don't get the OA5599 reference
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Jul 18, 2020 16:30
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^^^ Vanishing PointLobsterboyX posted:So if you notice theres plenty of Easter egg plates in the garage - every year https://celebritymachines.com/ has a black friday sale.. and every year I seem to spend 100 or so - Very cool. I am supremely disappointed there's no California plate 614 HSO, though.
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Jul 18, 2020 16:41
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MomJeans420 posted:I don't get the OA5599 reference The Vanishing Point Challenger.
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Jul 23, 2020 00:58
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Nice, I actually love that movie but I haven't seen it in what must be 15 years
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Jul 23, 2020 01:19
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I was led here from the house buying thread- but I am about to close on the house, and this is what the garage looks like. https://imgur.com/a/OPnS0ci What can I do to clean all of this up? The final walk through today was the first time I saw the garage in its full, as it was full of boxes of the seller's stuff. I'm guessing I can just fill the gap with spray foam? I'm also worried about that stain coming out of the wall in the second picture. Could that be water damage?
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Jul 26, 2020 22:15
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You could probably get someone to grind/epoxy coat that for $1200-$1500 if you want it to look brand new. Phone postin but the stains on the floor could be from moisture seeping into whatever they were storing. Anything running down the walls Id check for drips/leaks near the roof line on the wall. Dirt on the stucco could be anything from an active water spot from somewhere down to just dirt/sediment collection over time. Digital_Jesus fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jul 26, 2020 |
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Jul 26, 2020 22:31
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm guessing I can just fill the gap with spray foam? I'm also worried about that stain coming out of the wall in the second picture. Could that be water damage? Clean it out and see what remains. Spray foam would probably take care of it. The stain looks like oil, especially how it looks like it stained the molding above it, just in the area of the spill. Not uncommon with a garage, but something to double-check. The seller probably knows.
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Jul 26, 2020 22:35
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EVERYWHERE 
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Digital_Jesus posted:You could probably get someone to grind/epoxy coat that for $1200-$1500 if you want it to look brand new. The walls and along the roof looked clean and free of stains. Unfortunately the seller does not speak any english and we're having some communication issues.
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Jul 26, 2020 22:43
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The classic ‘pretend I don’t speak English so I don’t have to explain the stain in the garage’ gambit.
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Jul 26, 2020 22:48
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Bioshuffle posted:I was led here from the house buying thread- but I am about to close on the house, and this is what the garage looks like. https://imgur.com/a/OPnS0ci Not saying that you should expanding foam that hole (there is certainly a more correct way) but if you do get the window foam that's low expansion, much more controllable so less of a mess.
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Jul 26, 2020 23:27
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Mystery solved. There is a rack on that wall where the seller hung all their tools, so I'm guessing that's where the stains are from. If I do a half-assed job cleaning before laying on epoxy, it'll just end up peeling, right? What would be the "correct" way to fix that hole? I think a fresh coat of paint on the walls will make a huge difference.
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Jul 27, 2020 01:55
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Bioshuffle posted:If I do a half-assed job cleaning before laying on epoxy, it'll just end up peeling, right? Yes. You need to grind it and use chemicals to clean it up if you want it to adhere. The hole looks like it's in the concrete. It's a garage so I wouldn't really be too bothered by it personally and just paint it or epoxy it the same color as the rest of the floor and slab. Otherwise guess you're repairing concrete.
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Jul 27, 2020 02:10
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Our offer was accepted on a new house so that means new garage! That I stupidly forgot to take pictures of while we were there. But it's pretty nice with a high ceiling and decent storage options.
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Jul 27, 2020 04:15
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Rhyno posted:Our offer was accepted on a new house so that means new garage! Nice! Congratulations! I'm house shopping and either a nice workshop or room to build one is top of my priority list. Post some pics when you get it sorted.
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Jul 27, 2020 07:57
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This thread is good and needs more posts. I put this in the tools thread but fits better here Hypnolobster posted:I'm like 50 hours deep on reorganizing the garage, and I absolutely despise storing jackstands. This is far and above the best way I've ever done it so far. I made a woodgears.ca style rolling drawer/cart thing and it slips under the work bench with just a liiiitle bit of friction. Continuing my gently caress shelves initiative, I made a ridiculously beefy drawer. I also didn't want to spend $80-$250 on heavy duty 30" drawer slides, so I made them from some R6 bearings and steel.   
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Aug 18, 2020 02:37
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Hypnolobster posted:This thread is good and needs more posts. I'd be interested in more info on how you made the slides. Neat!
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Aug 18, 2020 02:42
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Hypnolobster posted:This thread is good and needs more posts. R6 bearing will fit a standard 3/8 bolt nicely and you've got a fuckoff strong drawer. Another way you can do it is by using a cam follower which is basically a needle bearing with a built in threaded stud - but I like your way and would almost certainly be more economical as well.
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Aug 18, 2020 03:42
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Yeah, this is like $18 worth of bearings and a bunch of 3/8 hardware. Just using a nut as a spacer and tapped the 4" plate. Pretty much stole the idea from seeing truck bed drawer builds on YouTube. Using steel for the plate and good centerpunch practices meant I could easily hit a few thou tolerance on the tapped holes so it has zero perceptible play vertically. Way nicer than expensive commercial slides (except that mine aren't full extension). Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 04:04
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Cross posting this, since it's more related to this thread. We last left the compressor directly hooked to a 75' Coxreels EZ-Coil. No regulation, but a big 3/4" in/out filter.  I spent Thursday doing a ton of work, including reinforcing the guardrail, adding a cross beam, and soldering a bunch of 3/4" and 1/2" copper. I've had a ton of trouble with the "standard" unions, which use a bubble flare-type seal. I found someone on eBay clearing out a bunch of 3/4" and 1/2" Watts union valves, which have an O-ring seal. They're high-lead, so no good for plumbing any more, but perfect for air lines. So... the new setup adds a T after the 3/4" hydraulic flex line. One side of the T goes to the reel, still unregulated. The other goes to the main 3/4" air line. All copper is clamped/isolated with rubber-lines P-clamps.   From there, it makes a couple of turns and crosses the 6' gap to the exterior wall:   The first valve/union is part way down the wall. It was the only way to install this solo and also works great to leak-test each section. The slope is intentional, as I want any water that condenses out to flow away from the compressor and toward a future drain leg. Over my machine shop area, the first drop is installed. It's a T off the side of the main line, then turns down the wall. There's another valve/union at the mid-way point, mostly for installation ease, but also for easy reconfiguration if needed:  The drop terminates in a 12" drain leg with 1/2" ball valve, and a 90 to a regulator/lubricator and a Dynabrade swivel:  Now I just need to source a coiled airhose, and I'll have air to clean off parts right at the machines, instead of dragging the big hose down. More to come, that's for sure. Eventually, I'll run a line up to the ceiling off the main line, and move the other reel up there next to the power drops. I also need to replace the current pump->tank line with copper and a radiator. It's currently sporting a piece of AC line which fits, but isn't rated for the heat of the compressor pump, and will eventually blow up. I've got a temperature-controlled switch module, and plan on mounting some sort of radiator/fan setup to the pump outlet. It'll knock a lot of water out of the air before it can get to the lines, and not burn much additional power. The next step that I'd like to take is to install a motorized ball valve, an auto drain valve, and a compressor cut-off switch. I'm planning on running conduit down the front of the lab and installing a single switch that should: A) Enable the pressure switch to turn the compressor on, B) Enable the motorized ball valve which will replace the valve between the tank and main filter, C) Enable the timer on the auto-drain valve, and D) turn on an indicator light. The issue is that legit motorized ball valves are $$. I've got a couple of saved searches on eBay, and I'm hoping to snag some surplus parts. If not, I'll probably figure out some mickey-mouse Rube Goldberg wire rope and pulley system to open/close the main valve. The last thing I want is the compressor running non-stop if something breaks and I'm not around.
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Aug 18, 2020 14:53
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My wife's step-step sister is a personal trainer and built an incredible home gym in their garage and it's inspired us to do the same so I will likely be clearing out anything I no longer use to save room in the garage. I have like, 9 corded drills I haven't touched in ages. And probably 3 old circular saws.
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Aug 18, 2020 15:06
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Rhyno posted:I have like, 9 corded drills I haven't touched in ages. And probably 3 old circular saws. ... why?
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Aug 18, 2020 20:17
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I think they start reproducing on their own once you get a few of them together
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Aug 18, 2020 21:32
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Maybe he's like me when my dad went through the flea market phase where he couldn't afford to NOT buy a bunch of cheap rear end tools (despite owning every tool ever already) and then just gave them to me because I didn't have one. But 100x
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Aug 19, 2020 01:31
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Most of it is left from my grandfather. I don't have much from him except for tools so it's been hard to part with that stuff.
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Aug 19, 2020 04:05
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^^ I totally get that. I still have things from my grandpa that I haven't even looked at in 25+ years. Just super tough to part with.sharkytm posted:The next step that I'd like to take is to install a motorized ball valve, an auto drain valve, and a compressor cut-off switch. I'm planning on running conduit down the front of the lab and installing a single switch that should: A) Enable the pressure switch to turn the compressor on, B) Enable the motorized ball valve which will replace the valve between the tank and main filter, C) Enable the timer on the auto-drain valve, and D) turn on an indicator light. The issue is that legit motorized ball valves are $$. I've got a couple of saved searches on eBay, and I'm hoping to snag some surplus parts. If not, I'll probably figure out some mickey-mouse Rube Goldberg wire rope and pulley system to open/close the main valve. The last thing I want is the compressor running non-stop if something breaks and I'm not around.  and shipping is anywhere from crazy to rape, probably not economical for you.Expand your searches to Red Hat, or Asco Red Hat. They're very often used as synonyms for valves like that in industry even if they aren't. Like Xerox and Kleenex.
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Aug 19, 2020 04:33
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slidebite posted:^^ I totally get that. I still have things from my grandpa that I haven't even looked at in 25+ years. Just super tough to part with. I wasn't actually looking at solenoid valves. Don't they draw power any time they're on, sometimes significant amounts? I was hoping there was a motorized valve with limit switches and either spring-return or battery-return if the power gets cut. I see bunches of Chinese ones on eBay, but I don't trust them.
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Aug 19, 2020 04:44
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We have a giant switch controlling the compressor and make sure to turn it off when we leave the shop.  I’m thousands of miles away right now and can’t take a picture, but that’s the basic idea. It’s in an accessible spot by the door.
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Aug 19, 2020 12:41
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RIP Paul Walker posted:We have a giant switch controlling the compressor and make sure to turn it off when we leave the shop. I've already got a fused disconnect up by the compressor. I'm talking about a single switch with an indicator light that does a bunch of stuff. I don't use air daily, so I don't want the system leaking down between uses. I also don't want the auto drain to run when the compressor isn't being used. I just need to find the right valve for the air supply. "Actuated valve" seems to be the keyword phrase I needed. Or I'll buy a Chinese one and see how that goes. Slidebite: I looked up Redhat ASCO valves, and they draw 16w when actuated. That's a bunch of power and heat to hold a valve open.
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Aug 19, 2020 13:03
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Ah gotcha. We have a drain valve on a timer, it dumps every few weeks. I forget the details handy sadly. Still prolly not what you’re after tho.
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Aug 19, 2020 13:05
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Ah gotcha. We have a drain valve on a timer, it dumps every few weeks. I forget the details handy sadly. I'll be using an electric valve that pops for ~10 seconds every hour. The tank is not exactly new, so I really don't want water sitting for very long. Once I upgrade the inlet line to have a radiator and drain leg, it should cut down the water production.
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Aug 19, 2020 13:18
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Have you considered something like a taco zone sentry? Hit the terminals with 24vac (or dc), supercaps charge, valve opens, then the caps trickle charge until power goes away. Then the actuator uses the stored energy to close.
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Aug 19, 2020 14:21
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Hmm, out of curiosity why is 16W? That's less than a lot of LED light bulbs (I assume we're talking 115V here). The valves can be NC or NO (normally closed/open) for when the power isn't on to it, and it takes no power (afaik) to do that. I agree with your term "Actuated valve" - that is indeed what it is, but, of course you'll have to specify as to the type and actuation.
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Aug 19, 2020 14:30
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sharkytm posted:I've already got a fused disconnect up by the compressor. I'm talking about a single switch with an indicator light that does a bunch of stuff. I don't use air daily, so I don't want the system leaking down between uses. I also don't want the auto drain to run when the compressor isn't being used. I just need to find the right valve for the air supply. "Actuated valve" seems to be the keyword phrase I needed. Or I'll buy a Chinese one and see how that goes. You are talking about like $3 a year to run that valve. That said, I've used "U.S. Solid" brand valves to good effect if you really want a motorized ball valve. Cheap, work fine, and even available in stainless. If you're interested in how to do your switching scheme: Switch w/ pilot for a receptacle in the loft for the main valve and auto drain, hang a RIB off of it to break the pressure switch to the contactor.
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Aug 19, 2020 15:22
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