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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is a giant pain and not worth the effort. I do not have ABS. I'm assuming your comment "this is a giant pain" is in reference to swapping out the brakes and not re-working the proportioning valve as curshedshitbox suggested. I'll defer to you guys on this one. No one has really said "What a great idea" so I'll probably just redo the drum internals and call it a day.
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Jul 27, 2020 15:33
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Deteriorata posted:Probably because if the rears lock up you'll spin out. cursedshitbox posted:yup. Axle swap is the right answer if you're gonna do Mustang discs all around yeah. However, if you're gonna run that diff, you might as well have the motor to make use of it so I recommend dumping in an explorer 5.0 + Tremec trans (it's pretty much a drop in replacement if you have the 2.3/2.5L engine mounts. Or you can go the painful route of turbo-ing the Lima motor and swapping the head with a Volvo DOHC head. The bottom end of that motor is actually pretty strong (munis the pistons) and can handle a decent amount of boost, or just a little boost for a long time. AFewBricksShy posted:I do not have ABS. I meant the whole thing. Realizing that you have to deal with the proportioning valve after you've already done the swap is just the last loving straw though and is not as easy as it sounds. At that point I'd rather just rip out the whole brake system and swap it; booster, master cyl, ABS (if you had it) and even the lines. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jul 27, 2020 |
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Jul 27, 2020 16:57
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2007 Corolla LE Doing a lower ball joint replacement. I popped out the axle just to better access it, and noticed this white grease. Two questions- what kind of grease is this (axle or wheel bearing grease, I'm guessing?), and do I need to add a new bead of this grease prior to replacing my axle nut? 
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Jul 27, 2020 18:06
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I'd assume lithium.
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Jul 27, 2020 20:18
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C-Bangin' it 
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I don't think that spot typically calls for grease, the last person in either did it to prevent corrosion or (if they were like the person who packed half a tube of grease ON TOP of the rubber shifter boot in my old Miata) just slammed grease in there for ~*reasons*~.
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Jul 27, 2020 23:23
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What sorts of problems can i run into from my lowered car occasionally scraping the ground?
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Jul 28, 2020 00:17
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You might have trouble using automated car washes.
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Jul 28, 2020 00:19
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Fumoto valves.
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Jul 28, 2020 00:51
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Colostomy Bag posted:Fumoto valves. What is this, a crossover episode?
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Jul 28, 2020 01:02
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Stupid question: I just got a Mityvac extractor and the tube that connects to the extractor seems unreasonably difficult to remove. Do I just continue to try to yank the tube out? It feels like I'm going to break the plastic connector on the extractor. edit: This thing: 
lowcrabdiet fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jul 28, 2020 |
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Jul 28, 2020 07:16
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lowcrabdiet posted:Stupid question: Most of those pneumatic connections make you push in the plastic ring to release the internal grabber bit so you can pull out the hose. Some can be difficult because maybe the grabber doesn't let go as much as it should.
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Jul 28, 2020 08:28
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jul 28, 2020 13:23
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My friend's 86 Nissan pickup blew the head gasket a few weeks ago, and when he took the head off he saw that one of the pistons was slightly eroded: (look at the top edge) He could turn this into a major rebuild project and replace it, or he could re-install the head and ignore it; is that little bit of erosion something to worry about, or is it just to be expected on a 35 year old vehicle? edit: he just sent me the picture below, which looks like *something* (piston or ring?) has smeared itself along the inside of the channel... we're leaning toward major rebuild project now. 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jul 28, 2020 |
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Jul 28, 2020 15:16
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Head Bee Guy posted:What sorts of problems can i run into from my lowered car occasionally scraping the ground? My factory height front valance hits the ground occasionally, but it's built for that and just takes some scratches on a plastic piece that's mostly not visible unless you're under the car. On the flip side we have the people in the "stance" crowd who brag about how many oil pans they've killed. Vehicles built to go off-road and thus expected to scrape usually have skid plates attached to the underside specifically to protect the vulnerable parts, if you drive a vehicle low enough to be concerned about scraping important parts you might want to look in to whether that's an option. Make it so the parts that will hit the ground first are able to take the damage.
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Jul 28, 2020 15:35
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Anyone in NY state use the online DMV registration stuff? I just had to panic buy a car, was forced to register online, and now 3 days later I haven't heard a thing back from them except for a confirmation email. Any idea how long I can expect them to take? I can only catch rides to work for so long.
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Jul 28, 2020 17:21
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Pham Nuwen posted:My friend's 86 Nissan pickup blew the head gasket a few weeks ago, and when he took the head off he saw that one of the pistons was slightly eroded: That’s done for. Looks like there was some pretty significant detonation in that cylinder and it eroded the ringland on that piston. At best it probably needs the cylinder bored out and an oversized piston installed, at worst the block is toast. Depends on how the block measures once it’s cleaned up.
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Jul 28, 2020 17:43
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I'm close to needing tires on the truck, it's a 2013 F-150 rwd with the 5.0. It'll never be off roaded, it's getting DD duty right now and will likely see some winter use again. Best bang for the buck? Should I just go to Costco? I also want to toss on all new pads and rotors, is there anything wrong with these Power Stop kits? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4659180&cc=3000982&jsn=1083 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7181056&cc=3000982&jsn=1082
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Jul 28, 2020 19:47
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zundfolge posted:That’s done for. Looks like there was some pretty significant detonation in that cylinder and it eroded the ringland on that piston. At best it probably needs the cylinder bored out and an oversized piston installed, at worst the block is toast. Depends on how the block measures once it’s cleaned up. This. There's no point to fixing that when that engine is so common in junkyards for less than it'll cost to fix (in both parts and labor). OP, any idea which engine is in it? 86 was an odd year to begin with, and depending what country the truck hails from (I'm assuming the US), there's a couple of engines it may have had from the factory. The most common is the KA24E, but being an 86, it might be a Z series 4 cylinder. The Z is pretty hard to find now. If it's fuel injected and a US model, it's 99% likely a KA24E. If it has the underhood stickers and you're in the US or Canada, if it shows a fuel injected 2.4, it's the KA24E. If it's a KA, they're stupid common and easy to find from 86 until the 96 model year (assuming you go with the original SOHC version). The Altima got the DOHC version of the KA from 93-01, but in a FWD config that requires swapping the timing cover, water pump, all accessory brackets, head, and distributor. The 240SX also got the DOHC version in a RWD version in some trims, but that's not a play n play swap like a SOHC would be.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:34
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STR posted:This. There's no point to fixing that when that engine is so common in junkyards for less than it'll cost to fix (in both parts and labor). My bad, I checked with him and it's a 1984. The engine is a carbureted Z24. I've suggested that he might have an easier time just getting a replacement engine; if it was a KA24E, I'd definitely push him toward that.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:45
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He's gonna have a much harder time finding a Z24, unfortunately, just because of age, but they're out there.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:57
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Rhyno posted:I'm close to needing tires on the truck, it's a 2013 F-150 rwd with the 5.0. It'll never be off roaded, it's getting DD duty right now and will likely see some winter use again. Best bang for the buck? Should I just go to Costco? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596 Here's our tire thread, but I look up reviews on tirerack.com to see what people like, then shop locally. Discount Tire / America's Tire have good customer service, I presume Costco does too, etc. Pham Nuwen posted:My bad, I checked with him and it's a 1984. The engine is a carbureted Z24. Is it the one with twin spark plugs? "NAPS-Z"?
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Jul 28, 2020 21:02
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Charles posted:Is it the one with twin spark plugs? "NAPS-Z"? Yes, it's very weird.
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Jul 28, 2020 21:16
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05 subaru outback Starter motor issues - sharp tap on the motor got me started after no joy when turning the key How much am I looking at (ballpark-ish) to repair the starter vs new starter? simplefish fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 06:47
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I was driving home on the motorway yesterday when there was a loud crack, and then I saw i had a crack in my windscreen.  It was hard to get my phone to focus on it at all, but it's about 1.5" across on the tips of the crack lines, will a chip repair thing fix it, and get it to where it can pass an MOT?
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Jul 29, 2020 10:39
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I can't speak to MOT, but I have successfully filled in a clamshell chip, and the radiating cracks, like that with the kit. If it will buy you time to use a home chip repair, then consider it. However, the straight cracks radiating out mean that it is going to go at some point. If MOT means getting a rando stopping you at any time because they see the crack shot across the windshield...then you are going to need to replace it.
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Jul 29, 2020 15:21
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Crankit posted:I was driving home on the motorway yesterday when there was a loud crack, and then I saw i had a crack in my windscreen. Not sure how insurers handle things where you are but here (US) if the crack is shorter than the long side of a currency note they repair, if it's longer they replace. I've had similar damage repaired before, they fill it with epoxy that fills in the cracks. If you know where to look there's a slight optical defect in the glass after the repair but I'd be surprised if they'd catch it during an inspection unless the inspector is very thorough and has a good eye.
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Jul 29, 2020 15:25
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MOT fail size for a chip/crack is, afaik, over 1cm in drivers area of vision, 4cm outside that Been rolling with a .8cm myself for the last 7 years
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Jul 29, 2020 15:46
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That looks pretty drat deep though, and may even have something embedded in it? A repair is certainly worth a shot.
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Jul 29, 2020 16:08
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STR EMERGENCY Changing plugs on the Brokeback. The lovely $2 spark plug socket came off the wrench and slid down into the spark plug well. I can't get it reattached. Any ideas on how to get it the gently caress out? I managed to find my far better spark plug socket, it worked fine for the other plugs. Found my misfire too.. the crimps on 2 of the spark plug wires just pulled off and stayed on the plugs. Plus the fucker has the original copper plugs... at 149k.  2003 Subaru Outback, SOHC EJ series. I don't know if I can pull the valve cover without pulling the timing cover...
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Jul 29, 2020 17:56
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What about a magnet?
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Jul 29, 2020 17:59
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Yeah, magnet on a stick would be my go-to there.
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Jul 29, 2020 18:55
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Really a big magnet on a flexible stick has been super useful in my life. Don't want to encourage you to spend money when you're trying to save but 🤷🏻♂️
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Jul 29, 2020 19:00
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Charles posted:Really a big magnet on a flexible stick has been super useful in my life. Don't want to encourage you to spend money when you're trying to save but 🤷🏻♂️ I'm sure STR has a brokeback hard drive sitting around somewhere. Crack that thing open, take one of the magnet out and tie a string around it.
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Jul 29, 2020 19:11
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Can you get a hemostat down there? Otherwise: extendable rare-earth magnet pick-up as already suggested.
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Jul 30, 2020 01:27
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Head Bee Guy posted:What sorts of problems can i run into from my lowered car occasionally scraping the ground? You'll scrape the front if you take any sort of incline dead on. Approach from an angle and go slow. I have a 91 Civic that's lowered so much the mudflaps drag when cornering and a 2011 Miata that's at stock height and I scrape the front of it all the time. Just make sure nothing vital (oil pan, fumoto valve) isn't sticking down lower than your frame and you'll be ok. Both of my previously mentioned cars have fumoto valves and I've had no problems. All of this is assuming you haven't slammed your car so low that you only have a few inches of clearance. Good luck in that case.
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Jul 30, 2020 03:11
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Wound up going to Harbor Freight and getting 13" long needle nose pliers. Not only got the socket out, but also the 3 ripped off ends of the spark plug wires (only 1 came off cleanly). Dropped about $40 on tools overall, knowing that if I got everything I thought I would possibly need on the first trip, I'd either need more tools, or return most of them. I returned everything except the really long needle nose pliers (how have I lived this long WITHOUT those, holy poo poo). (pic shows lost spark plug socket removal by yanking the separated spark plug wire terminal out with the pliers...) Between the new plugs, the spark plug wells no longer being full of oil (holy poo poo that was a massive smokeshow once I started it, since all the oil drained into the engine), and new wires... the car feels totally different. No more <500 RPM idle, no more severe miss at idle. Transmission is shifting downright aggressively, probably because the TCM has learned how I drive when the engine is running like poo poo (the only way it's ever run since I've owned the car). I need to disconnect the battery for a bit to force both the engine and transmission control modules to re-learn everything. It's a different car entirely. The plugs have been changed before. So have the wires. Probably around 30k miles.... it has 149k now. Those plugs were beyond loving done. Ironically, the exact same plugs and wires went back in (part #) - the wires were definitely Carquest/Advance Auto (the replacements are identical right down to the markings on the cables), the plugs were very, very worn out NGK coppers. I think the original plugs from the factory were Denso, possibly? with a Subaru logo, though this part # for the plugs is in the owner's manual as a suggested replacement if Denso isn't available. Old and new plugs side by side. Remember, these are the exact same part number plugs. I might need to do valve cover grommets...  There's a slight difference in how it runs. Very slight. /s (it's a massive difference, I can actually pass an 18 wheeler now!) It's not an AI post without a firmly extended middle finger.  Why yes, that is oil running out of the spark plug well DESPITE THERE NOT EVEN BEING A SPARK PLUG IN THERE. The car smoked like an old Soviet-era train on a -20C cold start for a good 5 minutes from all of that oil running into the engine (every plug was like that). I kinda wanna post the video of the startup, but I was Master Shaky McShakerston thanks to low blood sugar, you can't tell what's going on in it.  
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 03:46
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Good job showing that gently caress who's boss STR. Also, long needle nose pliers are amazingly good "gently caress, what do I do now?" tools.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:04
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I didn't think your Subaru should have been that slow! Yeah those pliers look like a great idea.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:09
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Motronic posted:Good job showing that gently caress who's boss STR. Agreed, especially the double jointed variety. They don't grip incredibly strong but enough for most things like extraction and positioning. Also I was looking for a link and lol there's a Harbor Freight credit card! If I ever get a new tool chest I bet I'll have one in my pocket.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:20
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Those plugs look good. I mean, going through all that, I'd replace 'em too. The oil in the plug well is what triggered a misfire code on my '07 Versa. I cleared it out, but haven't gotten around to replacing the valve cover / sparkplug well gaskets.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:43
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