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pumped up for school posted:Then the shovel ended up on fire. There has to be a thread looking for a title somewhere.
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Jul 31, 2020 19:57
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pumped up for school posted:Then the shovel ended up on fire.  pumped up for school posted:There's a second "locked" panel under the meter. That second panel is the unfused wires from the output on your meter to the input on you big main breaker on the right. Your senses are correct. Do not cut that tag, it is meant as a tamper evident seal for the power company. (I assume.) Meter lug-to-lug in Vac on two adjacent breakers such as your AC or Stove, you will get 240v or whatever. Remember the bus bar central part is effectively unfused power in that you've gotta get 200A+ going through it to open your main.
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Jul 31, 2020 20:06
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Are there any old work boxes that can either be screwed into a stud or have the flaps open left right instead of up down?
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Jul 31, 2020 20:19
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pumped up for school posted:There's a second "locked" panel under the meter. I'm convinced that you have a GFCI in your garage that you haven't found yet, and it's the first stop in the "F Gar" circuit. Look behind everything... tool boxes, refrigerators, cabinets, benches. movax posted:I've been sitting through arc flash training for the past two days. I just have to replace a few words with 'motorcycle' and/or 'firearm' and poo poo stays the same. Wear your gear, know what the gently caress you're doing, trust no one, treat as always live until confirmed, etc. Easier said than done. Every time I sit through that they have to reiterate that yes, you still need to wear your PPE to check for voltage even after you LOTO. Just because the disconnect is off doesn't mean it's safe. Some people just don't learn and make up their own rules. At my last company we had a couple guys change a fuse and cause an arc (they were fine, minor burns). Turns out they were changing a fuse on a confirmed dead circuit, but they were using an allen key to pry the fuse out and accidentally stuck it through a hole in to the LIVE section behind it. At least that's what I heard... having a hard time envisioning it, but they were in a rush because the project manager needed a machine up and running, so they only de-energized the section they were working in. And suddenly there was re-training and everyone was issued color-coded locks.
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Jul 31, 2020 20:20
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KKKLIP ART posted:Are there any old work boxes that can either be screwed into a stud or have the flaps open left right instead of up down? Yes, they are called "Madison" boxes and I have been using them wherever possible in my new house. They are a bit pricier but not ridiculous, and come in standard sizes: https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB2G-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVRO/
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Jul 31, 2020 20:29
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Nevets posted:Yes, they are called "Madison" boxes and I have been using them wherever possible in my new house. They are a bit pricier but not ridiculous, and come in standard sizes: I would need something like this but screws on the bottom. My stud is actually under the box.
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Jul 31, 2020 20:35
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B-Nasty posted:That's fine if your desired exposed wire section is near enough to the end of the wire to slide the remaining insulation over, but I've seen it done where the NM sheath picks back up and continues on some distance to the next box. Whoa. Alright, that's a little bit nuts.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:07
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Nevets posted:Yes, they are called "Madison" boxes and I have been using them wherever possible in my new house. They are a bit pricier but not ridiculous, and come in standard sizes: The other benefit to these over a standard OW box is that (with practice) you can set them at the correct depth in the drywall. The regular OW boxes sit proud of the drywall due to the box tabs, and even popping off the ears of the outlet/switch sometimes isn't enough to get the plate to actually sit flush against the wall. That and OW boxes SUCK for grippy outlets. I've ripped the entire box out of the wall before unplugging from a fresh TR outlet. The plastic OW are still better than the old-school metal with Madison bars that always wiggle around no matter what you do.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:19
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DaveSauce posted:I'm convinced that you have a GFCI in your garage that you haven't found yet, and it's the first stop in the "F Gar" circuit. Look behind everything... tool boxes, refrigerators, cabinets, benches. Yeah — I think it always comes down to human factors in the end. Complacency is a hell of a thing — strikes all the time in aviation too, that 142nd time you do the checklist and decide to skip it next time is the one where you end up doing a belly landing. I'm working on designing / building a MW-scale hydrogen system, so it's a fun combination of high voltage and combustible gas! High voltage / high current DC is awesome.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:28
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KKKLIP ART posted:I would need something like this but screws on the bottom. My stud is actually under the box. It would look weird but you could use double gang rotated 90 degrees.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:30
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KKKLIP ART posted:I would need something like this but screws on the bottom. My stud is actually under the box. They make single gang ones that have the screws on the narrow end like you want. Not sure about the 2 gang. Nevets posted:Yes, they are called "Madison" boxes and I have been using them wherever possible in my new house. They are a bit pricier but not ridiculous, and come in standard sizes: They are handy AF. I use them for bathroom outlets where I don't know the backsplash/mirror heights and have to use a cut-in. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 22:46
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So today I decided I'd finally replace the overhead kitchen light in my apartment, with a ceiling fan so I could increase the cold air spread in my duplex apartment with the AC upstairs, and the kitchen having a fan downstairs so that I would be able to help drag the cold air from upstairs downstairs, and potentially diffuse some smoke in the kitchen while cooking (no range hood above the stove). So silly me for thinking I would just have to replace the electrical box with an actual box rated to hold a fan (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Harbor-Breeze-48-in-Brushed-Nickel-Indoor-Ceiling-Fan-with-Light-Kit-3-Blade/1001774626) from the ceiling...  
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Aug 1, 2020 04:01
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angryrobots posted:That's also true, but not what STR is saying. He's meaning that if you lost a 120v hot leg on the utility side (or anywhere upstream feeding a panel with the 240v stove and other 120v circuits), the stove won't get 240v, but it could get ~some voltage~ via the bus bar that is missing it's leg, being connected to 120v circuits with devices plugged in and competing the circuit to neutral. So the stove circuit is being completed, but to neutral though whatever is plugged in. This is interesting stuff. I had the experience of losing a leg sometime last year. For me about 50% of my house didn't have power for a few hours and that was it. Nothing was damaged. I have no 240v outlets or appliances, though - everything is gas for me.
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Aug 1, 2020 05:03
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I've got a weird ceiling light in one room, and the wall switch actually has a sort of wireless fan remote thing built into it. So I'm pretty sure it was a fan at one point; but I haven't had the heart to look up there because I'm expecting this.
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Aug 1, 2020 06:06
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GreenBuckanneer posted:So today I decided I'd finally replace the overhead kitchen light in my apartment, with a ceiling fan so I could increase the cold air spread in my duplex apartment with the AC upstairs, and the kitchen having a fan downstairs so that I would be able to help drag the cold air from upstairs downstairs, and potentially diffuse some smoke in the kitchen while cooking (no range hood above the stove). Shame about the assumed state of the wiring everywhere else in the house though...
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Aug 1, 2020 12:59
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Speaking of Madison boxes, if you have a joist nearby these can make the job easy. https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Elec...463180072&psc=1
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Aug 1, 2020 13:13
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I just recently used one of these to install a new ceiling fan/light. https://www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gang-Silver-Steel-New-Work-Old-Work-Standard-Ceiling-Fan-Ceiling-Electrical-Box/3127059 Worked really well and is adjustable so it doesn't matter how centered you are between the joists. I did a test hang (180lbs) and it managed to hold and not collapse my entire ceiling. Sure has no issues holding my 16lb fan.
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Aug 1, 2020 16:58
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Moey posted:I just recently used one of these to install a new ceiling fan/light. I used one of those too. Other than a too small opening that was offset enough to have to get into the attic, it’s snug as can be.
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Aug 1, 2020 17:08
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Moey posted:I just recently used one of these to install a new ceiling fan/light. Thirding these. I've used two or three of them in my house and they're fantastic.
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Aug 1, 2020 18:02
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KKKLIP ART posted:I would need something like this but screws on the bottom. My stud is actually under the box. You can get a gem box and either hold it in the drywall with Madison hangers or pop out the knockout and use a drywall screw with a washer. They're single gang but gang-able.
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Aug 1, 2020 20:24
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Ferrule posted:You can get a gem box and either hold it in the drywall with Madison hangers or pop out the knockout and use a drywall screw with a washer. They're single gang but gang-able. Can I just be dumb and do that with the old work box I have not and cover the screw with electric tape (bear in mind I know this is a really stupid idea)
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Aug 1, 2020 20:34
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Update on my mystery gfci. It was indeed in the garage!
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Aug 2, 2020 05:16
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Moey posted:I just recently used one of these to install a new ceiling fan/light. I literally picked that one up, I used a stud finder to find the studs and they look like they're about at least 18 inches apart. We'll find out when I cut a hole in the ceiling later today! Also: I've got two outlets that are within 2-3 feet of the sink in the kitchen, shouldn't they be GFCI? Thinking about replacing those next, but I wasn't sure if those had other pre-requirements.
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Aug 2, 2020 18:44
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I've got two outlets that are within 2-3 feet of the sink in the kitchen, shouldn't they be GFCI? Thinking about replacing those next, but I wasn't sure if those had other pre-requirements. You only need 1 gfci per branch, and if the breaker is gfci that covers the whole branch. If you chain off the load terminals on the gfci that protects everything downstream of it. Test and find out!
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Aug 2, 2020 20:35
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One advantage of using a GFCI outlet to protect only the ones that need it / are likely to be tripped instead of a GFCI breaker is it being quicker to reset than going to be breaker box.
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Aug 2, 2020 22:15
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So the drywall has horsehair and/or slats behind it. I'll have to get a saw tomorrow :/
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Aug 3, 2020 01:04
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I've got two outlets that are within 2-3 feet of the sink in the kitchen, shouldn't they be GFCI? Thinking about replacing those next, but I wasn't sure if those had other pre-requirements. The rule is anything within 6’ of the edge of a sink as well as all kitchen countertop outlets, regardless of distance from the sink. That said, get a GFCI tester and give it a test before replacing anything because you can protect an entire chain of receptacles with a single GFCI receptacle or breaker, and the gfci could be someplace weird.
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Aug 3, 2020 01:32
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GreenBuckanneer posted:So the drywall has horsehair and/or slats behind it. I'll have to get a saw tomorrow :/ Just a hint, since you're living in this house. Get an oscillating tool. I used to use a rotozip for plaster/lath back in the day, but they things are magic. This isn't my "tool system" but it's perfectly good for homeowner use if you don't have any other battery tools that you already have chargers/batteries for, and a good base to start building your other power tools off of: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-1...-P189/314214306
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Aug 3, 2020 02:08
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corgski posted:The rule is anything within 6’ of the edge of a sink as well as all kitchen countertop outlets, regardless of distance from the sink. That's what I remembered (used to do masonry with dad way back when, took some classes in electrical setup, like breadboard work and practical wiring in a lab of plugs + switches etc). What I meant to say, is there are 3 outlets within 6' above the counter tops, and one within 6 feet but behind some furniture. It seems like the GFCI is on the same circuit as the rest of the counter top outlets, so I should be fine with only one of the plugs having actual GFCI buttons? Motronic posted:Just a hint, since you're living in this house. Get an oscillating tool. I used to use a rotozip for plaster/lath back in the day, but they things are magic. This one is better than black & decker models or similar brands? I've got a tool box of odds and ends but no power tools.
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Aug 3, 2020 05:22
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What I meant to say, is there are 3 outlets within 6' above the counter tops, and one within 6 feet but behind some furniture. It seems like the GFCI is on the same circuit as the rest of the counter top outlets, so I should be fine with only one of the plugs having actual GFCI buttons? Yeah as long as all the receptacles you listed are either GFCIs or downstream of a GFCI you’re fine, you just need all of them to be GFCI protected, they don’t all independently need to be GFCIs.
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Aug 3, 2020 05:44
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GreenBuckanneer posted:This one is better than black & decker models or similar brands? I've got a tool box of odds and ends but no power tools. I'm a Milwaukee slut myself, but Ryobi makes good tools for most non-professional applications.
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Aug 3, 2020 14:40
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GreenBuckanneer posted:That's what I remembered (used to do masonry with dad way back when, took some classes in electrical setup, like breadboard work and practical wiring in a lab of plugs + switches etc). Start entering the world of battery power tools, the black and decker / other etc will be okay but you want to start out with minimum of Ryobi for battery tools. I have this tool and it's awesome I've used it to wire shelves to fit in a closet, I've used it to make drywall cuts for a double gang box. I've used to cut trim to clear for vinyl flooring. It's a super useful tool.
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Aug 3, 2020 14:47
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SpartanIvy posted:I'm a Milwaukee slut myself, but Ryobi makes good tools for most non-professional applications. I regret not going Milwaukee, mostly because they have more brushless tools, but Ryobi has been kicking out more brushless tools now which is nice (I realize they're the same parent company). They gateway drug that poo poo though — "Huh, well, already have the batteries, so yes, I will buy this $30 Ryobi electric caulk gun, and this Ryobi hot glue gun!!!!" Ryobi seemingly finally released a plain brushless hand 1/2" drill, so now I have a full BLDC set of drill, hammer drill and impact driver. Tool-wise though, I swear by Wiha (for screwdrivers / 'bigger' tools) and then Xcelite and a few others for smaller things (embedded systems like stuff, small hand tools). Good quality stuff.
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Aug 3, 2020 17:46
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movax posted:I regret not going Milwaukee, mostly because they have more brushless tools, but Ryobi has been kicking out more brushless tools now which is nice (I realize they're the same parent company). They gateway drug that poo poo though — "Huh, well, already have the batteries, so yes, I will buy this $30 Ryobi electric caulk gun, and this Ryobi hot glue gun!!!!" Ryobi seemingly finally released a plain brushless hand 1/2" drill, so now I have a full BLDC set of drill, hammer drill and impact driver. I was on Milwaukee M12 as an apartment dweller but when I bought a house a upgraded to their top of the line M18 FUEL drill/driver/Hackzall set and my bank account balance has been suffering ever since.  The Ryobi equivalents are like half the price.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:26
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KKKLIP ART posted:Are there any old work boxes that can either be screwed into a stud or have the flaps open left right instead of up down? Use a steel box with plaster ears and the side wings or whatever they're called.
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Aug 3, 2020 22:31
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OK so, new problem:  Excuse the lovely digging, but apparently my stud finder was lying to me so I had to compensate once I learned what it was I was seeing. The wood with the pen marks with it, that's a piece of the old ceiling (and based on similar frustration I had with drilling holes in the wall to set up a pots and pans metal shelf and realizing the plastic anchors were getting destroyed once they started hitting something after hitting the drywall, ended up using different anchors entirely as a result) sitting behind it. I assume the walls have the same situation. You can also see what looks to be a piece of perhaps pine, in the images. That was put there between the beams, to help hold another piece of wood (seems there used to be a chimney right here in the past) that was re-placed there, just so that they could hook up a light there instead and have something for the screws to bite their teeth into. So, now I have a new problem:  Because the wood has been covered with drywall and painted, it causes the bracebox (seen in red, 9000 hours in mspaint)to be too high, and instead of being flush with the ceiling, which technically, it is, because it assumes it's going to be flush with drywall, not two wall objects. On one hand....I could just clean up the edges, hang as is, it just will have the footer....thing, inside the drywall, and I'll have to come up with some way to patch the side hole that was made. On the other hand, that's pretty ugly, and I really want this to be flush with the drywall, but I need at least 3/4 of an inch to ostensibly make that happen. I have a few ideas, but honestly at this point, I just want the drat fan up, so I want to go to the lowest effort/risk setup while having it flush.
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Aug 4, 2020 13:26
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I have a few ideas, but honestly at this point, I just want the drat fan up, so I want to go to the lowest effort/risk setup while having it flush. Round box extension ring and done. Since drywall isn't flammable, you can legit just leave the recess in there. The only person that's going to be moderately annoyed is the next owner.
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Aug 4, 2020 13:30
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Also, I think you need a clamp on that cable: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-8-in-Non-Metallic-NM-Twin-Screw-Cable-Clamp-Connectors-5-Pack-20511/100133208 You'll have to take the box back down to install it but you don't want to take the chance the cable will rub against the sharp edges of the knockout and short out. Plus with how the previous 'fixture' was installed the cable might not be anchored anywhere close by (or at all).
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Aug 4, 2020 13:53
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Nevets posted:Also, I think you need a clamp on that cable: I have no idea how to tell, I guess I could stick my phone up there and take some pictures of the inside. The fan box comes with a clamp, but it's too small (I tried) so I left it out since I was trying to see at that point if it'd fit at all. I would have had to strip the plastic shielding off and the ground wire is bare and I really didn't want to have to deal with that. Which, "round box extension ring" works with the previously listed bracebox? I see a few options but unsure which one is the best one. I looked at a few and it seems like I may (they're #10-32 x 1") have to get longer screws (looks like SIA screws maybe instead of metric?) in addition to a extension ring. EDIT: The only thing I can find is a plastic extender, and someone said to not use plastic at all, but I can't find metal ones, unless I get a like, four inch extender when I really only need 3/4 of an inch. I guess I could see if I could replace the whole box with a deeper one and see if it'd screw into the brace... EDIT2: My other idea was just to flip the legs up, rest the rod against the wood, that should drop it down plenty. Other crazy idea was to use the new saw to just shorten the legs of the brace down 
GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 14:08
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:32 |
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You do need a connector on that Romex. I would not sweat the box not being flush. If anything an extension ring is going to put you lower. As for plaster, save yourself the effort and go buy a medallion. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Westinghouse-16-in-Smooth-White-Finish-Ceiling-Medallion-7773200/203077491
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Aug 4, 2020 15:16
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