|
The center electrode is pretty worn on them, but yeah I've had worse plugs come out of cars. 2 of the wires that came apart... I didn't even feel them come apart, so they'd probably been barely making enough contact to get a weak spark for awhile. The 3rd one I felt break as I pulled it. Motronic, those pliers are a lifetime addition to my toolbox. It was a set of 2 - one with a 45 degree bend. One of those things you don't know you need until you REALLY need it, then you realize  SO many other fuckups could have been taken care of in 30 seconds instead of 15 minutes if you had them before.e: yanked a battery cable when I filled up today to force the ECU and TCU to re-learn everything. Last tank was solid 15.0 MPG, mostly highway, though it had about 3 hours of idling on it. loving thing feels like a rocketship in comparison now (not saying much, the stock 1/4 mile time is nearly 20 seconds... when new). Shifts are a lot better too. It actually throws me back a little on the 2 -> 3 shift @ WOT now instead of lazily slipping/flaring into 3rd. It's never had shifts that inspired any confidence in how long this transmission has left until today. No more stumbling when I first touch the throttle. I'll have to look at the fuel trims in a week or so to see how they compare to a month ago. It actually has a high cold idle now (dead nuts on 1500 when the engine is cold), blipping it brings it down to 1100 instead of 500, and it doesn't feel like it's going to stall every time the AC kicks on now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jul 30, 2020 |
#
?
Jul 30, 2020 10:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:49 |
|
|
.
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jul 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2020 22:30
|
|
|
STR posted:The center electrode is pretty worn on them, but yeah I've had worse plugs come out of cars. 2 of the wires that came apart... I didn't even feel them come apart, so they'd probably been barely making enough contact to get a weak spark for awhile. The 3rd one I felt break as I pulled it. I love it so when a relatively straightforward maintenance turn dramatically improves things.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 02:14
|
|
|
So I just watched a vid on the Piano. Is the only sound... from your iPhone/app?? [Ed] yes it appears so. :/ Feenix fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jul 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 04:29
|
|
|
Feenix posted:So I just watched a vid on the Piano. Is the only sound... from your iPhone/app?? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 04:34
|
|
|
Sorry I fat fingered the wrong thread. Meant for Lego. My bad!
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 06:05
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Sorry I fat fingered the wrong thread. Meant for Lego. My bad! Hehe
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 06:09
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:I love it so when a relatively straightforward maintenance turn dramatically improves things. OTOH, I hate when it turns into a clusterfuck. A 45 minute job took 2 hours once you factor in running to HF and Advance. And an rear end chewing from my roommate because I apparently got a tiny grease smudge on the center console of his car (I put towels over everything I was going to touch and wore gloves, because I know how drat picky he is about his car). Took it on the highway today, got off and came to a red light and HOLY loving SMOKE EVERYWHERE. Pulled into a parking lot and it was just pouring off of the passenger side exhaust manifold. That's the side that had the literal overflowing spark plug tube that had a bunch of oil pour out when I pulled the wire... guess a lot of oil got on the manifold. First time having it on the highway since the plug swap, and I was on the highway a good 20 minutes with the cruise set a hair under 80 (toll road with a 75 mph limit where everyone does 85+, but also heavy on speed traps). Glad it didn't catch on fire (or if it did, it went out on its own while driving). E: this is the one that was full. Plug still in there, not only with part of the wire stuck to it, but also a missing spark plug socket buried in there. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jul 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 07:29
|
|
|
STR posted:OTOH, I hate when it turns into a clusterfuck... Ugh. Very lucky that there was no fire. Did it stop? I gather you replaced the valve cover gaskets...
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 13:54
|
|
|
Nope, haven't touched them. All that oil mostly drained into the cylinders (giving one hell of a smokeshow from the exhaust when I started it - yes, I cranked it a bit with the plugs out to blow as much out as I could), only that 1 well was overflowing. I will fix them... eventually. Probably when it starts missing again. Put another 15 miles on it today, all highway. Filled back up, 4 MPG improvement already, though with only ~35 miles on the tank, that's not far enough to get a good baseline (I did use the same station and pump, though). Thought that disconnecting the battery for a few would clear the ECU (did that with the fillup yesterday), but all my misfire codes, evap code, and CKP code were still there today (I pulled the CKP plug to keep the injectors and coils from firing while spraying oil out). LTFT was still off the charts (+17 at idle with AC on) along with the AFR (12:1 to 17:1 depending if the compressor was on or not). Just hitting "clear codes" in Torque brought all the numbers right where they should be (AFR isn't wildly fluctuating at idle with the AC kicking on and off anymore, AFR was staying pretty close to 14.6:1), and a couple of emissions monitors set just driving it around the block. Gonna be surprised if it DOESN'T throw a P0420 soon with how rich it was running for who knows how long. I can definitely still smell the oil burning off, but I only had a tiny bit of visible smoke from under the car after getting off the highway today, instead of "oh gently caress am I on fire?". It drips a bit from between the engine and trans, right onto the exhaust, so I'm used to smelling a little oil from it anyway, just not used to smoke. e: too tired to do it today, but tomorrow I'll take it to a self-service car wash and hit the entire engine bay and subframe + exhaust with degreaser. I'm way loving overdue for an oil change anyway, it'll be nice working on it semi-clean. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jul 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 16:29
|
|
|
STR posted:e: too tired to do it today, but tomorrow I'll take it to a self-service car wash and hit the entire engine bay and subframe + exhaust with degreaser. I'm way loving overdue for an oil change anyway, it'll be nice working on it semi-clean. When you guys do this, how carefully do you protect stuff? I've been wanting to clean up my old Jeep's engine bay, but there's the solenoid sitting right there, and the alternator, and then there's a vent on the power steering pump's cap, and the coil and distributor... I did some light-duty cleaning on an old Volvo at home, just using Simple Green and a hand brush, and for that I just wrapped the alternator in a shopping bag, but the Jeep has more electric stuff and I'm thinking about the self-service car wash this time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 17:58
|
|
|
I just noticed this tube hanging down off the rear diff. I don't know how long it's been disconnected. No puddle or anything, it looks like it's been loose for a while but just wasn't hanging down (it's pretty obvious from the directions I usually pass walk by the truck, so I'm confident I noticed somewhat early on). Hose clamp at each end, feels like a bit of metal in the loose end but I'm guessing that's whatever nipple it was attached to that broke off. No puddle anywhere, it's long since dry if there was one. I drive this truck, like, once every couple weeks on average. 2000 Nissan Frontier. How hosed is this? From the front:  Closer:  From the rear:  Closer: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 18:16
|
|
|
I am not a mechanic but that is possibly/probably a rear differential breather. https://www.4wdingaustralia.com/4x4/why-you-should-fit-diff-breathers-to-your-4wd/
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 18:47
|
|
|
Yup, that is absolutely an axle breather. It may not have been attached to much of anything. My Jeep has little plastic bits in the far end of those hoses to try and minimize the odds of sucking water in through them, but otherwise they're just kinda stuffed wherever keeps them up and out of the way. You just need to rearrange that hose so that the open end of it is somewhat secured up as high as you can get it, while still allowing enough slack to account for the axle moving. If the hose is cracked that close to the axle, you may want to consider replacing it to reduce the odds of contaminating your gear oil.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 19:20
|
|
|
Cool beans, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 19:34
|
|
|
Ok not so much a mechanical question, so sorry if this isn't the right place to post: I have a '55.1 Chevy pickup. Well, kind of a '55. When I was a kid, my dad picked up a 71 Camaro from a friend of his that had been a yard car for years. We pulled the engine, tore it down, and rebuilt it. Then threw that into the pickup. So my baby is a bit of a beast. Anyway, the truck is currently at my mom's house in California. Dad has since died, and I'm trying to get it out to the east coast using a shipping company. Needless to say, if anything happens to my truck I will be devastated. We've been getting quotes and trying to research companies. Any suggestions on good companies to use? Or, maybe more importantly, lovely companies to avoid?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 01:02
|
|
|
Hire Reliable Carriers. They're not cheap, but they will white glove the poo poo out of your car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 04:16
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, magnet on a stick would be my go-to there. I've even had success just sticking a hard drive magnet on a long screwdriver. Stroke the shaft with the magnet first to magnetize the whole thing of course.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 05:14
|
|
|
Might be the wrong forum but Im looking to take over a short term lease on a car while Im avoiding using the subway due to CoVID. I've been looking at leasetrader.com which seems to be the most reputable but having never leased a car before Im worried about some of the pitfalls that I may be missing. I do not want to own a car, I live in new york which is extremely congested and not conducive to owning. Renting is too much for a weekend so an affordable 8-12 month lease seems appealing. Anyone have experience taking over a lease, is lease trader ok, what should I be looking out for? Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 14:58
|
|
|
Doing a string alignment, is there any reason I can't check toe below the centerline of the wheel? Obviously there's less margin for error, but I have mud flaps that I would have to take off to do it at the centerline.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 15:49
|
|
|
I have a question for the Aussies, Kiwis, and South Africans here. I've been reading the Importing Japanese cars (into the US) thread and have noticed many of the vehicles there were either officially sold in your countries or are common private imports, especially Hi-lux/Surfs and the smaller vans. Much valuable advice about these cars and specifically their diesel engines in that thread comes from Australians and New Zealanders. Are there any local online resources that y'all would recommend for troubleshooting these vehicles and their engines?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 16:31
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:When you guys do this, how carefully do you protect stuff? I've been wanting to clean up my old Jeep's engine bay, but there's the solenoid sitting right there, and the alternator, and then there's a vent on the power steering pump's cap, and the coil and distributor... I did some light-duty cleaning on an old Volvo at home, just using Simple Green and a hand brush, and for that I just wrapped the alternator in a shopping bag, but the Jeep has more electric stuff and I'm thinking about the self-service car wash this time. Cover the distributor and the vent on the PS pump. Cover any obvious electronics. The alternator shouldn't care much as long as you don't spray it directly, but you can wrap it up if you want. Plastic bags are fine as long as the engine isn't hot enough to melt them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 17:40
|
|
|
The fuel pump on my '93 Hardbody has died and I've noticed that the gas tank is pretty gross inside, with flakes of rust and poo poo floating around. A new tank is at least $250, it looks like. I'm not in a hurry to have the truck roadworthy, so I was considering cleaning the fuel tank if it's a fairly straightforward/inexpensive task. But then I don't know how to store or dispose of the old gasoline that's been in it for...a year maybe? It's a nearly full tank. Is it even worth trying to salvage the old tank? poo poo, I'll have to deal with the gas either way...what can it be stored in that doesn't cost a bunch of money?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 18:28
|
|
|
Achtane posted:The fuel pump on my '93 Hardbody has died and I've noticed that the gas tank is pretty gross inside, with flakes of rust and poo poo floating around. A new tank is at least $250, it looks like. A bunch of jerry cans. It should be fine for a while, but if you're worried, dump some fuel stabilizer in there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 18:30
|
|
|
Achtane posted:The fuel pump on my '93 Hardbody has died and I've noticed that the gas tank is pretty gross inside, with flakes of rust and poo poo floating around. A new tank is at least $250, it looks like. If you can get it operable, even half-assed, you can drive off most of the gas, or all of the gas and bring a jerry can with you to get home. If you're really not in a hurry put a little in another car before each fuel up and dilute it and use it. I would put a gallon in at a time, and at some point youll only have like 5 gallons in the tank and you can transfer all of it to a jerry can. If you're feeling real ambitious you could give it away to the neighborhood, tell everyone that you're giving away one gallon of gas for whatever and just fill em up. For what it's worth I cleaned one tank with a kit and sealed it, and the other just with water and some rocks for abrasion, which did get a lot out but was not great. I'm considering calling around to radiator shops to see if they can boil and seal it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 18:44
|
|
|
BTW for disposal of old gas search for "household hazardous waste" + name of your city / county
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 18:57
|
|
|
Gas a year or two old is probably fine, I've run on 4 year old gas in engines from that era. Just filter it through a couple layers of paper towel or blue shop towels into jerry cans and then put it back in the tank after you're done. If you're queasy about running it straight, run it 5 gallons at a time with the rest of the tank fresh. Remember also that there's probably a pickup sock that will keep most of the crap out of the pump, so you don't need to do a perfect job cleaning.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 19:43
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Hire Reliable Carriers. They're not cheap, but they will white glove the poo poo out of your car. Yep this is one thing you don't cheap out on.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 19:52
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
A dumb question: I've been taking apart my car's interior to do some bodywork*. I know my car has front airbags, and has explosive tensioners for at least the front seats. Despite most of the interior now being out, aside from unplugging the battery I've not done anything to the car that makes it work. Can I still drive it in that state (I've kept the driver's seat in for now but the passenger and the back bench is out.) I think it's no problem but I wanted to check here to make sure there wouldn't be a problem with the sensors in these systems being unhooked. *I'm hoping it is "some", we will see
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 23:03
|
|
|
2018 Honda CR-V EX-L with the 1.5L turbo Does the ECU keep it from revving too high when in park? I changed the oil and was running it for a bit afterwards and I noticed it wasn't revving above 4.5k. I took it for a drive and everything felt fine, but it's kinda hard to get the revs up high with a CVT, at least on surface streets (I didn't notice anything weird going up to about 55 mph).
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:A dumb question: I've been taking apart my car's interior to do some bodywork*. I know my car has front airbags, and has explosive tensioners for at least the front seats. Despite most of the interior now being out, aside from unplugging the battery I've not done anything to the car that makes it work. Can I still drive it in that state (I've kept the driver's seat in for now but the passenger and the back bench is out.) I think it's no problem but I wanted to check here to make sure there wouldn't be a problem with the sensors in these systems being unhooked. You'll likely get an SRS light and might need somebody with a specialty scantool to reset it. It'd be helpful to know what kind of car. Did you have to unplug anything to remove the seat? Is the buckle still there?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 23:44
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Yep this is one thing you don't cheap out on. Agreed. I would much rather pay a little more and know it's getting here safe. Thanks Colostomy and Mr. Wiggles! I think I'm going to end up going with them. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 00:48
|
|
|
I'm extremely dumb and ordered the wrong bolts from mcmaster twice in a row. Is "armor coat" on a grade 8 bolt good poo poo? I usually order the gucci gold zinc plating but this stuff sounds like extra corrosion resistance or something, which might be an upgrade? Not sure... [e] usage of bolt: extremely under-vehicle, direct to elements. tuna fucked around with this message at 09:57 on Aug 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 09:52
|
|
|
Per McMaster: (sorry, couldn't copy text on my phone for some reason) Sounds like it's more corrosion resistant than regular zinc coating. It's a bit hard to find info that's not from application companies, this seems like the least biased. https://www.pioneermetal.com/blog/zinc-plating-vs-zinc-flake-coating-whats-the-difference/
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 10:39
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Per McMaster: Thanks. The extra corrosion stuff sounds nice but I wonder if it holds up as well with physical wear/impact sockets and poo poo, or has seizing/antiseizing effects. I'll check back in 20 years with results.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 10:50
|
|
|
I'm anxious to hear! There's probably lab results somewhere, but I'm in bed at 5 am unable to sleep and I'm not about to go down that rabbit hole, sorry! Fake edit: you can try finding the "K" value of the coating. I saw a poorly sourced PDF saying that it's approximately equivalent to a "slightly lubricated" fastener and would require a little bit less torque than a zinc plated bolt. I saw K=0.11-0.15 vs K=0.20 of a zinc plating. So about 20% less torque. I'd hate to give you the wrong value, so take that as a grain of salt and check for the info yourself.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 11:13
|
|
|
veggiebacon posted:Agreed. I would much rather pay a little more and know it's getting here safe. Yeah, one thing you definitely don't (and in your case sounds didn't) is getting a quote from some broker. Your inbox will hate you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 12:41
|
|
|
So will your voicemail. It's worse than putting your info into one of those "hey we'll check all these insurance companies for you!" websites that send your info to 50 companies.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 13:41
|
|
|
I made that mistake a year ago, my phone was literally constantly ringing for a solid week, and I still get calls about it to this day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 14:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:49 |
|
|
Same thing happened to me 5 or 6 years ago, only I used my google voice number and ended up having to stop using it because the calls went on for over a year.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 16:57
|
|
