|
And then once it's off never buy a tire that says Continental again
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 15:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 16:56 |
|
|
MacPac posted:do any of you have some weird old tricks for unseating tight beads from rims? Im getting a wicked forearm workout from trying to remove this conti gp 5000 tire, but its not coming off hot water and a good tire lever fill your tub or sink with enough hot water to submerge a good portion of the wheel at a time until it’s all fairly warm, the idea being it hopefully softens up the rubber enough to let it slide off easier
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 15:37
|
|
|
e.pilot posted:hot water and a good tire lever This reminds me, I need some good tire levers. Is it normal to have a tiny bit of wiggle/play on a cassette? I noticed it when cleaning my bike earlier, just a little bit of movement when you wiggle it. Lockring is cranked down and there's no movement along the axis of the axle. No issues with shifting either, just wondering if it's indicative of an issue.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 17:12
|
|
|
Could be a little bit of play in the freehub. Some hubs are just like that, especially the more inexpensive ones. Edit: if you've never taken apart a freehub body to try to take that play out lemme tell ya it's a whole lot of work messing about with the stack of paper thin shims and itty bitty bearings. It sucks a lot. Just leave it unless it's causing problems. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Aug 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 17:16
|
|
|
They're Aksiums, but I did find them on the street for free. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe get the hubs serviced before winter.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 17:22
|
|
|
I knew they were mavics before you even said it. The freehub has a plastic bushing that rides on the hub body. They wear and eventually you'll notice it doesn't shift as well. There's an ebay store called hubdoctor that sells oversized bushings and bearing replacements. They sort of work. I tried a couple of bushings and the bearing kit on my ksyriums but am glad to just be on nicer wheels now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 17:34
|
|
|
EvilJoven posted:Edit: if you've never taken apart a freehub body to try to take that play out lemme tell ya it's a whole lot of work messing about with the stack of paper thin shims and itty bitty bearings. It sucks a lot. Just leave it unless it's causing problems. I was thinking of having a look inside the freehub on my pub bike, cos I think one of the pawls is stuck down. It doesn't bother me too much so I probably won't now!
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 17:49
|
|
|
Opened up my wobbly Aksium hub to find that the bushing was shot and one of the two pawls was missing the entire spring. No clue where it went. Ended up buying a new freehub and pawl & spring kit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 17:58
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:I personally like one size smaller better than one size bigger, but I would probably call 35 two sizes smaller than 48. On 48 particularly I had a lot of flat issues due to rub running 45mm tubes. Switched to 2.0 and they went away.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 19:28
|
|
|
nm posted:On 48 particularly I had a lot of flat issues due to rub running 45mm tubes. Switched to 2.0 and they went away.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 20:13
|
|
|
Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 20:45
|
|
|
MacPac posted:do any of you have some weird old tricks for unseating tight beads from rims? Im getting a wicked forearm workout from trying to remove this conti gp 5000 tire, but its not coming off Have you tried swearing a lot
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 20:56
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes It costs less?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 21:32
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes I once ripped open a gravelking SK so badly it wouldn't seal and almost had to put a tube in to ride the two miles home. Cleverly I'd forgotten to pack any tubes that day, so I endured the lesser shame of pushing my bike home instead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 21:50
|
|
|
Having finally gone 40mm and tubeless on my cx bike this spring, I'm an idiot for not doing it years ago. (Well mostly i was trying to avoid buying a new set of wheels for that bike).
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 22:41
|
|
|
I tour on 42mm with tubes. I’d prob go tubeless if the tires were.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 00:40
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:It costs less? I have to bin most traditional clincher tires long before the tread wears out. With tubeless tires, I almost always wear them down to the cord. Also there is some dollar amount tied to less often having to repair a flat as the sun is setting and the temp is dropping. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Aug 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 00:42
|
|
|
nm posted:Contis valves aren't as long as q-tubes long valves and don't seem to be available longer. Conti valves max out at 60mm but they sell an extension Which is great for me, I only have one wheel that needs longer than 60mm stems and it's easy enough to just swap out the valve core on the street if you have the little tool they give you in the packet with you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 01:11
|
|
|
Any thoughts on wether this cassette is too worn or not would be appreciated. Got a cyclical clunking/clicking when pedaling but not coasting. Three seasons of mountain biking on this drivetrain, with a new chain still made the same noises around the block. Probably just taking it in anyways, but I gotta wait a days time for that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 02:25
|
|
|
looks fine from here
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 02:40
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:It costs less? Does it? For comparable tires it seems like it's between zero and $15 more for the tubeless ones, plus a bit of sealant. Figure two or three tubes per life of tire puts you almost to the same price? jammyozzy posted:I once ripped open a gravelking SK so badly it wouldn't seal and almost had to put a tube in to ride the two miles home. Sure, but like, a rip that bad would've hosed up any tube, too, maybe too bad to patch/boot?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
Lord Rupert posted:Any thoughts on wether this cassette is too worn or not would be appreciated. Got a cyclical clunking/clicking when pedaling but not coasting. Three seasons of mountain biking on this drivetrain, with a new chain still made the same noises around the block. Probably just taking it in anyways, but I gotta wait a days time for that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 04:26
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Does it? Do the rims cost less? Cheaper speced bikes often come with tube rims and tires. I mean technically with enough tape and sealant anything is tubeless.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 04:58
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Do the rims cost less? Cheaper speced bikes often come with tube rims and tires. I mean technically with enough tape and sealant anything is tubeless. I admit I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of current lower-end gravel bikes (narrowing to that given the selection of what can clear wider tires), but I checked the bottom-rung Journeyman and it come with tubeless compatible wheels. Good quality tubeless rims and wheelsets are very affordable (just not light), and obviously more expensive than zero dollars for a non-compatible wheelset you already have. I guess I should have put more caveats on my statement? "My bike does not have tubeless compatible wheels rn" obviously counts as a good reason to not run tubeless tires, lol. I suppose I considered that one had the option to do it implicit in my challenge?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 05:12
|
|
|
This is why I stayed out of cycling for 5 years.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 05:33
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Do the rims cost less? Cheaper speced bikes often come with tube rims and tires. I mean technically with enough tape and sealant anything is tubeless. Just looked. Something like a $799 Trek FX 3 comes with tubeless wheels.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 06:40
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes Chukkers don't do tubeless. Also, I don't really want to tour tubeless nor have to mount tubeless while assembling the bike in my lovely motel room after a flight. (700x48s won't fit in my box inflated). My non-touring bike is going tubesless with cliffhangers. nm fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Aug 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 06:46
|
|
|
nm posted:Chukkers don't do tubeless. Seems like it would be 50/50 depending on the goal of the tour. Considering how many times Francis/James/Lawrence flatted on their tour from San Diego to Seattle, I think they should have gone tubeless. They insist that tubeless wouldn't have been worth it in the desert, but I kinda think it would have been as long as one of them carried a shop bottle of Orange Seal. As always, it's best to check set-ups for weird issues before a big tour/ride. I'm sure there are easy to mount big tire combos. You can always use something like a KOM Cycling syringe to suck sealant out of a tire for travel, then deflate the tire. Also I think it's a pretty low number of people who tour on tires that wide in general?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 09:42
|
|
|
I start tours tubeless now. So far I'm at 5 out of 6 tires making it to the return flight without having to put a tube in. That 1 instance was because I wore a tire down to the casing and I decided to not to attempt the futile effort of setting a bead with a hand pump on the edge of a road halfway up a mountain. Also neither tire was designed to be tubeless 
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 10:13
|
|
|
nm posted:Also, I don't really want to tour tubeless nor have to mount tubeless while assembling the bike in my lovely motel room after a flight. (700x48s won't fit in my box inflated). I used to wrestle this when flying to mountain bike race since 29 x 2.3’s fix in few bike boxes/bags not made in the last few years and then the $50 airshot canisters became available and solved that headache of seating tubeless tires with only a pump. Tubeless is great once you get to 700x38’s or bigger. Like never look back good. Tubeless still sucks for cyclocross 700x32’s if you want supples tires running 18-25 psi, it just doesn’t have the volume and burps too easily. Luckily we have Clement/Donnelson tubeless tubulars that are pretty bulletproof and actually handle well. For Gravel you usually have a stiffer tire design and more volume so tubeless works quite well, especially with purpose built wheels and tires. I would not say the same thing from 7-8 years ago when we were running Michelin Jet 700x 30 cyclocross tires tubeless for Gravel events on converted rims..... On my current mountain bike tubeless setup I basically have never flatted with trail weight tires over the last 3 years. Keep in mind with racier tires and different environments this may vary. The tubeless technology has really matured in certain applications and 700x48’s are a prime candidate. I also realize that touring guys also still think STI shifters are liability so you may still tread slowly into the 21st century. Flatland Crusoe fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Aug 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 17:03
|
|
|
road tubeless is real good
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 17:29
|
|
|
TobinHatesYou posted:Seems like it would be 50/50 depending on the goal of the tour. Everyone should tour on 48s if they have the clearance. All of that sounds much more of a pain in the rear end than tubes. You can run something like shikoros or put orange seal in your tubes for flat resistance, and it will be less of a pain in the rear end for touring IMHO.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 19:33
|
|
|
nm posted:put orange seal in your tubes for flat resistance,
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 20:42
|
|
|
bicievino posted:I admit I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of current lower-end gravel bikes (narrowing to that given the selection of what can clear wider tires), but I checked the bottom-rung Journeyman and it come with tubeless compatible wheels. I bought a Claris-level GT Grade a few years ago that came with tubeless rims so I think nearly any bike you buy today that can fit wider tires should be able to. To add to the incidental costs of tubeless, there are also valve stems (which cost at least as much as a tube each), tape (which is cheap if you get strapping tape or expensive if you get the branded stuff to match your rims), and an air compressor or inflator canister thing if you want to get them mounted at home. I'd say it is definitely pricier overall for me but worth it
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 21:00
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:I keep seeing people saying this, but I am yet to see any evidence of it being effective. I double flatted last week with orange seal in the tubes, reinflated and went on to do 150 more miles and counting still holding air no problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 21:01
|
|
|
e.pilot posted:I double flatted last week with orange seal in the tubes, reinflated and went on to do 150 more miles and counting still holding air no problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 21:40
|
|
|
Edit: Wrong bike thread!
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 21:56
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:I keep seeing people saying this, but I am yet to see any evidence of it being effective. I tried it a couple years ago, got a pin hole puncture just as I got to the station and sealant just started spraying out of the hole and never sealed it. I assume the powder they put in tubes to keep them from bonding when deflated hosed with it, or at least caused the flakes to bond so they couldn't plug the hole. Haven't tried again since.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2020 02:03
|
|
|
Clark Nova posted:and an air compressor or inflator canister thing if you want to get them mounted at home. I'd say it is definitely pricier overall for me but worth it This is not entirely true, I’ve set up tubeless on 2 bikes one 38c and one 28c with a floor pump. Just seat the tires with tubes and leave them overnight to set in. As long as you don’t pop both beads when you take the tube out you will probably be able to get it to seat tubeless with a floor pump. If that fails soapy water should do the trick.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2020 04:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 16:56 |
|
|
I spent $80 a couple years ago on a pump with a large side cylinder and a switch next to the valve to release the compressed air from the cylinder into the tire all at once. Works great.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2020 04:22
|
|
