|
Warmachine posted:I think this is where I've ultimately landed with my Ncase M1. I've never done a custom loop before, but something about this build just has me itching to take it all the way and see if I've got the skill and patience to complete it. Doing a double radiator GPU CPU loop in an M1 probably isn't a good first timer project but... hell with it. I reckon the hard part will be mapping the tubing runs and knowing what fittings I'll need so I don't buy a bunch that I don't need. But I've already got a general idea on this.
|
#
?
May 25, 2020 10:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 14:30 |
|
|
Well. I just put together my first loop and I have a horror story for the thread to show for it. Ryzen 3700x and a 2080 TI FE went into it. Not a single leak anywhere, setting up the water blocks and the actual loop went perfectly. The pump works, everything connected right, pc booted up to desktop on the first try. ... Until I ran Heaven and my gpu rocketed to 80c and then crashed after 30 seconds of a blistering fast 10 fps. Thought it may have been a fluke but no it was not. Turns out I used the wrong size screws to screw in the waterblock (they were 5 mm, I should have used 4mm, OOPSIE  ) and so it had poor contact with the copper.So I undid everything, drained the gpu section of the loop, and took it apart to redo it with the right ones. Except, see pic included. The standoffs came off of the block because of the too-long screws in the PCB. Thus, pliers and gruntwork and a bit of weeping ensued. Lo and behold, I got everything assembled with the correct screws this time and... Nothing. No signal. The gpu is seemingly just stone dead. PC boots to desktop still and the loop and cpu's temps are all perfect. An older gpu works fine in the mobo so it's gotta be the part itself. I have no idea how but I killed 1200 dollars worth of gpu. So let this be a lesson to you: learn to differentiate extremely tiny screws from one another because it may fry your graphics card. Edit: the good news is the gpu is brand new so I may be able to RMA it if I put the air cooler back on and look away while whistling like I'm not incredibly guilty. For all I know it was already kinda busted and I just broke the camel's back! CJacobs fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2020 15:33
|
|
|
CJacobs posted:Well. I just put together my first loop and I have a horror story for the thread to show for it. Ryzen 3700x and a 2080 TI FE went into it. Not a single leak anywhere, setting up the water blocks and the actual loop went perfectly. The pump works, everything connected right, pc booted up to desktop on the first try. loving ouch dude. Though I didn't even realise EK provided two different lengths of screws. Must be dumb luck I haven't done the same in past.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2020 15:54
|
|
|
Yup, there are 4mm screws for the pcb, 6mm for the IO, and 7mm for the backplate. They included a few extra 6mm's and I used those on the pcb without realizing it because they looked similar. Going to take the card to a repair shop to use their test bench and confirm that it's dead. That'll rule out the motherboard and power supply but I'm pretty sure it's the card already. RIP 2080 TI, you were so young. 
CJacobs fucked around with this message at 16:05 on May 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2020 16:03
|
|
|
This makes me glad I'm starting small. I can already see that custom fittings and tubing will make my cooling setup far better. The anti-kink springs on the Eisbaer's tubing do a great job of making sure the hoses don't kink and also making sure you can't position the hoses at all. It's tempting to get fittings and tubing now (or two paydays from now... whatever) and get everything hooked up in a sane way. I'm a bit worried about clearance for fittings though. Doing things on an ITX board does NOT leave much side clearance off the block.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2020 23:25
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:Earlier this week, my computer was occasionally making a loud, shuddering noise. Then, I woke up to my pump making an eve louder horrifying noise on saturday morning, and immediately turned off my computer. I drained my entire loop, disassembled my pump which is a D5, and gave it a good wipe down with some alcohol (high-proof vodka because there wasn't any isopropyl because corona). Once it was clean, I noticed that when spinning the pump by hand, there was a spot it seemed to get stuck on once per turn where the impeller would try to tilt. I went ahead and completely drained my loop because I already had a bunch of things disconnected, and ran some primochill sysreboot through my loop. The first run through, the liquid turned a pretty dark gray and looked like it had little fibers floating in it. I kept partially draining and refilling until the liquid came out clear and ran the clear sysreboot for 24 hours. I've since refilled it with regular coolant fluid, and for the most part things seem okay, except whenever I start up my computer, it seems like the pump has a hard time getting started. The noise I woke up to was apparently the pump stalling, and I get that for about 2-3 seconds when I boot my machine, but otherwise it seems to be fine now. ... My computer just answered this question for me. New pump it is
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2020 22:13
|
|
|
Yeah once the bearings in the pump start to fail it's not going to get better and it's just a matter of time before it seizes up completely.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2020 22:48
|
|
|
Is there anyone who can give me a measurement on the width between the back of the PCB and the top of an EKWB or similar low profile water block when attached to a card? I need to know how thick it is from that point. Backplate doesn't matter, since there's more than enough space in that direction.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2020 04:27
|
|
|
How can one determine the cooling capacity of a radiator? I need to stuff a new workstation into a 2u rack, keeping it relatively quiet, and I’m hoping a quad 80mm alphacool ut60 could handle 280 watts of threadripper.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 03:17
|
|
|
krysmopompas posted:How can one determine the cooling capacity of a radiator? You need to know fan speeds, water/air temp deltas etc. Honestly, I don't think it will be cool or quiet as I believe you'll need to run fans at 2k+ rpm. Doubling the thickness isn't nearly as effective as doubling the surface area of the radiator. You'll also most likely need to run push/pull with the 60mm radiator. This is just me rambling.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 07:01
|
|
|
A quad 80 is about 10% less surface area than a 240, so it could be enough, but is it going to be sitting in a hot closet and what kind of pressure/cfm can you get with 80mm fans before they get super loud. Presumably you're not getting deltas so you can have the sound of a jet taking off forever. The only real way to know for sure is to try it
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 07:34
|
|
|
On the consumer side of things, that's been the difficult part of getting into this for me. It's relatively easy to find the specs on a fin stack and make a rough guess as to what kind of thermal rejection I can expect (this is generally a pass/fail assessment with lots of error), but the radiator question has been entirely opaque, because a 240x25mm radiator is not the same as 240x60mm radiator. The rule of thumb I've always been given is 120mm per component with an extra 120mm for overclock headroom/safety. This is a practically worthless rule of thumb though because ok, 120mm on a 65w processor and 120mm on a 125w processor is going to have a very different effect, let alone the effect of the thickness I mentioned before. Canna Happy posted:You need to know fan speeds, water/air temp deltas etc. But I don't buy why manufacturers can't control for this and provide a metric to compare between products. Even if it is only good internally because there's no standard (hi TDP), it would help when selecting what product to buy or judging how feasible a project is.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 22:17
|
|
|
Yeah, that’s a bit of an expensive experiment with a low chance of success, but it sounds like a 3950x will be fine based on your surface area estimate. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2020 23:07
|
|
|
I’ve had an old EKWB AIO sitting in my closet for a few years which I bought on a whim. It has been sitting in the box since 2016 or so, and I’ve only taken it out a few times to look at it. I finally have a case with some room for a big radiator, so I figured that I could finally install this AIO. Is there any risk to running a component that is this old, even though it’s completely unused? Is there anything I can or should do to test for functionality? It’s definitely not under warranty any more, and is past EOL status.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2020 19:17
|
|
|
Time Crisis Actor posted:I’ve had an old EKWB AIO sitting in my closet for a few years which I bought on a whim. It has been sitting in the box since 2016 or so, and I’ve only taken it out a few times to look at it. I finally have a case with some room for a big radiator, so I figured that I could finally install this AIO. If it's the Phoenix line you should be able to drain and refill it with a hex key on the radiator. Even though I'm 90% certain the fluid is the EK Cryo clear stuff, I'd absolutely do it for peace of mind.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2020 17:10
|
|
|
Theophany posted:If it's the Phoenix line you should be able to drain and refill it with a hex key on the radiator. Even though I'm 90% certain the fluid is the EK Cryo clear stuff, I'd absolutely do it for peace of mind. It's the Predator line, so even older. You recommend I still drain and refill it? Edit: I checked and the fluid they use is "EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear", which EK apparently doesn't sell any more. Can I substitute this for something else? Time Crisis Actor fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 30, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2020 22:09
|
|
|
Time Crisis Actor posted:It's the Predator line, so even older. You recommend I still drain and refill it? Personally I would, just because even the clear stuff will degrade over time, even if it isn't being thermally cycled frequently. I have a bottle of it in a cupboard somewhere and it has a suggested shelf life printed on the bottle. I shouldn't think it matters what fluid you use beyond slight performance differences.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2020 08:07
|
|
|
Extremely tired and irritated at the moment. Spent the day installing ekwb's 240mm phoenix radiator and gpu module into my computer on a MSI Sea Hawk 1080ti. Was looking forward to finally having fans controlled by gpu temp. However I can't seem to get the ewkb fans to pick up a tach signal for pwm control no matter what I do. I have a CRJ 4-Pin PWM GPU Fan Adapter Cable coming off the gpu into tach cable for the radiator. No dice, full speed all the time. I then plug the tach cable into the motherboard to see if its just the gpu being an rear end, motherboard doesn't detect a fan plugged in so it won't send pwn out the header. This is on chassis header 3 on an Asus Prime x470 pro. I then unplug the two fans off the built in fan control on the radiator, plug them in a fan splitter and plug that into the gpu 4 pin adapter. Fans don't come on at all. Then I plug the Y-adapter into chassis header 3 on the motherboard and I can confirm at least the drat fans works with pwm. But I can't figure out a to test the pwm control through the radiator as it seems there's an issue with the tach cable. I even plugged in the Y-adapter cable to chassis header 3 on my motherboard, had a random 120mm fan on one end of the Y-adapter so the motherboard would detect a fan there and then the tach cable on other end of the Y-adapter to see if it would send whatever signal onto the fans on the radiator, no dice. This is what I'm working with btw: EKWB Phoenix 240mm Radiator And here's the manual: Link Edit: For another test I took the Y-adapter and plugged into chassis fan header 3 with one of end the y-adapter going directly to an ek fan and the other end going to the tach cable with the other ek fan plugged back into the on-board fan control. The one ek fan controlled directly by chassis header is going regular speed. The one through the onboard fan controller is full speed ahead. Edit Edit: Opened ticket with EKWB. I'll see what they have to say. At this point the GPU is out of the equation, their on-board fan controller doesn't seem to passing on speed signal at all. Coredump fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Aug 9, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2020 02:02
|
|
|
Have you checked that the chassis header you're using is set to PWM control in bios? ASUS default to DC control, I think, since it's still more general and causes fewer issues. Situations like yours where PWM has to be enabled aren't as common.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2020 02:39
|
|
|
Xerophyte posted:Have you checked that the chassis header you're using is set to PWM control in bios? ASUS default to DC control, I think, since it's still more general and causes fewer issues. Situations like yours where PWM has to be enabled aren't as common. Yes I have. Plus the y cable allows me to see pwm in action with the fan on one leg of the y behaving correctly. Therefore that y cable should be sending the pwm signal down both legs but the fan controller on the ekwb is not picking it up and running the fans at full speed as a fall back.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2020 14:06
|
|
|
I was asking because setting the fan header to DC control would result in exactly what you're seeing: the PWM fan on the splitter would still happily change speed from varying voltage and a constant PWM when plugged into a DC header, but the fan hub wouldn't get a pulse signal and would default to max speed. If you've checked that your headers are all set to PWM, sure, sounds like an issue with the PWM control on EK's stuff.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2020 15:17
|
|
|
I see. I had to submit videos of my issue to ekwb. They've issued me a RMA. Got to get this radiator out of my system before tomorrow and DHL will pick it up. In other news, I found this on youtube and I love it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeIMyFXSQ8E
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2020 15:01
|
|
|
Do Phanteks Glacier not do their own 16mm tubing? I assume not all 16mm PETG tubing is the same, which company works well with Phanteks Glacier?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2020 21:00
|
|
|
Now that I've ordered an NH-U14S for my Threadripper, to ditch the reservoir to make space for a gently caress-off huge graphics card, some Youtuber taunts me with this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.19ce4c4dF6G4ed :| A Threadripper version of something like this would be nice. Since there's no proper AIOs so far (except that horrible Liqtech).
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 15:44
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Now that I've ordered an NH-U14S for my Threadripper, to ditch the reservoir to make space for a gently caress-off huge graphics card, some Youtuber taunts me with this: I'm skeptical about the effectiveness of a tiny block/pump/reservoir combo.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2020 16:34
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:A Threadripper version of something like this would be nice. Since there's no proper AIOs so far (except that horrible Liqtech). Depends on what you mean by proper, I guess. I got a Coolermaster ML360 TR4 for my threadripper machine, which is an asetek with an expanded copper plate to cover the whole IHS. It means the finstack is still standard and therefore smaller than one of liqtech's gunkfactories which really upsets some nerds. Still does better than an air cooler if that's the metric.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2020 09:22
|
|
|
Coredump posted:I see. I had to submit videos of my issue to ekwb. They've issued me a RMA. Got to get this radiator out of my system before tomorrow and DHL will pick it up. Got my replacement in from EKWB and confirmed it could read tach signals correctly. I then used an ekwb cable to convert the fan header on the gpu to something the fan controller could read on the radiator and.... the fan rpm that msi afterburner was reporting was silly. Something like 30,000 rpm. Needless to say the fans were constantly ramping up and down and it was a mess. Enter the t_monitor header on my motherboard. One $10 thermistor cable later I was able to wedge this probe in between the waterblock and the gpu die. Well the sensor is not touching the gpu die at all, but it is in direct contact with the copper that is touching the gpu die so the temps the sensor sees are right in line with what afterburner reports. Doing this allowed me to tie my chassis fan 3 header to this temperature reading and set my fan control curve there. And the motherboard is much better able to interpret the fan speed signals than the gpu. So I have accomplished my goal of having a water cooled 1080ti while my cpu is still air cooled. Temps stay around 50c in game and noise is quite good. Hooray!
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2020 21:36
|
|
|
The manual speed control on my pump is on the bottom, which is floating 5mm off a shelf in the tower making it impossible to change speed. Is there something I could connect inline between the pump and the power supply, a simple turn knob dial to control speeds?) I think I have a PWM pump in storage somewhere if there's a manual PWM controller I could buy? I spent more time than I should have choosing which fittings to use. Went with Phanteks Glacier.  
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2020 19:34
|
|
|
I think I want to redo my build once I get my hands on a 3080 for no good reason other than boredom. Any suggestions for a case that can handle a pair of 360 radiators? Cost isn’t a huge concern but I’d rather be in the lower hundreds and not the higher hundreds.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 21:34
|
|
|
Kind of pisses me off that there still aren't any competent AIOs for the Threadrippers with full coverage. I'm saying competent because of Liqtech.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 22:18
|
|
|
Lots of cases can handle dual 360s. The go to is the loan li O11D, but there are good alternatives. I'm partial to fractal design cases, but not everyone is.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2020 22:24
|
|
|
ilkhan posted:Lots of cases can handle dual 360s. The go to is the loan li O11D, but there are good alternatives. I'm partial to fractal design cases, but not everyone is. Yeah the Lian Li looked OK. I want to try and use a distribution block with integrated pump to reduce tubing bends and EK makes one for that case. My D5 is like 11 years old so it's probably time for a replacement. Thanks for the suggestion.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2020 13:48
|
|
|
funkymonks posted:Yeah the Lian Li looked OK. I want to try and use a distribution block with integrated pump to reduce tubing bends and EK makes one for that case. My D5 is like 11 years old so it's probably time for a replacement. FYI if you do go down that distro plate route with the O11-D, you *might* just fit a 360 on the roof/floor and you'll only be able to fit a slim 360 rad in the rear chamber. I ended up going for a slim 360 and regular 240. Also, if you're using an EK AMD CPU block, the in/out ports are horizontally level and the CPU in/out ports on the distro plate are vertically level and it's infuriating just how loving dumb a design oversight that is.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2020 13:25
|
|
|
I bought something today! Decided I needed to add another radiator in case I decide to jump on a 3080. My Meshify C can technically handle one more but I about killed myself trying to fit everything. So I decided to get something suited to it. I sorta feel like a basic bitch but that might just be from spending too much time on r/watercooling. But I couldn't find a similar case that looked so easy to do a double 360 radiator setup. The only other one that looked compelling was the Thermaltake Tower 900 but I realized I'd be spending over $100 more just to have something ~unique~. It looks so cool though. Unfortunately my extra rad, fans, and couple fittings won't be here until later this week so I can't have fun just yet
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 04:12
|
|
|
Nice. It's a good case. If it had slots for vertical GPU I'd probably have one instead of my define 7.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 12:45
|
|
|
Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I bought something today!
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 13:42
|
|
|
ufarn posted:Nice! Are you gonna get the distro plate, too? I decided not to. I realized the pump in it was a ddc 3.1 and the new one with a d5 pump was like $350. I'm just reusing my d5 pump/res combo
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 16:53
|
|
|
Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I decided not to. I realized the pump in it was a ddc 3.1 and the new one with a d5 pump was like $350. I'm just reusing my d5 pump/res combo
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 17:37
|
|
|
Yesterday my Ncase M1 reservoir that actually fits a DDC pump came, and I got that installed. Installed an EK 3.2 PWM DDC, and the whole thing is entirely more pleasant now. The fan curve does wonders to keep noise down when I don't need it to be cranking at it's full 4500 RPM. I also know now that I absolutely will need to build in quick disconnects when I get my 3080 and finish the loop.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 17:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 14:30 |
|
|
ufarn posted:The new one is for the XL, but lord, $350 is nuts. It's weird the regular non-XL hasn't had its pump upgraded to something like 3.2 yet given its age. There's two actually! This one for the regular O11D: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-pc-o11d-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi And one that's $30 more for the XL: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-pc-o11d-xl-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi Endymion FRS MK1 fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Sep 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 19:04
|
|