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It's digital, so no mechanical pot. I'll still try some cleaner and see... that may make the difference, I've often used it in dusty conditions. It may just be brushes, too... I just don't know what the digital version looks for in ramping up the rpms... it was definitely seeing something it didn't like and backing the speed back down. Edit: And one of the few times I don't quote and it ends up being a shameful snipe. 
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Aug 3, 2020 22:40
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EVERYWHERE 
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Krakkles posted:I pondered this for awhile and ended up buying the Astro 65SL (link) I ordered up the Astro, it looks good. Thanks for the advice, all!
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Aug 4, 2020 04:57
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meatpimp posted:drat. I'm glad I didn't get one. M12, I'm assuming? Yeah, it was the m12. In fairness, mine did live in some dirty environments, but never the less, it had the same problems as those noted in various online reviews. I might've even posted in here, or the tools thread in DIY that I took it to a local repair place and the guy was all "M12 line sucks" and "there are no repair parts for this thing". I looked online and didn't see any parts availability for it. Unlike my ~10ish year old non fuel m18 drill, impact etc.. My only option to get it fixed was to bring it to the actual Milwaukee return centre or whatever it was called and get a new one, but it was massively inconvenient to do so, so I just took one for the team and kept using it until it croaked.
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Aug 4, 2020 11:53
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Ooh, I have some experience here. So, I'm pretty generally pro Red Team, but the M12 dremel is one of the tools I've had less than ideal experiences with. I bought one a few years ago, used it for a while in fairly light usage, then had one day of cutting plastic (modifying a dash panel for a stereo install) which resulted in magic smoke exiting and the power switch no longer functioning. Hit up milwaukee's website, got referred to a local service center. Went to the local service center, they strongly encouraged me to just send it to Milwaukee because they "don't really work with people who aren't pros". I ended up buying a second one, sending the first one back to Milwaukee to be repaired, and now I have two. I haven't used the one I received back yet, because the second one has kept working, but I also don't often do several batteries at a time of cutting. All that to say ... probably one of the few red tools I've used that I'm not super impressed with. It's fine, mostly, but I don't really trust it, and the experience of trying to get it repaired was just weird.
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Aug 4, 2020 18:22
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Wiha has a promo right now where you can get a bundle of tools for $100, you pick the tools. Supposedly worth over $200. https://www.wihatools.com/wiha-bundle?utm_campaign=60K%20PROMO%20IS%20HERE%20
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Aug 4, 2020 18:39
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Do we need to have a conversation with Wiha about what pliers are?
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Aug 4, 2020 19:34
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get long enough blades and you can hold 'em like chopsticks
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Aug 4, 2020 19:51
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Heaven is having people using their long blades as pliers to help each other.
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Aug 4, 2020 20:33
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That looks like $100 in tools+"$100" in swag. Which is not a bad deal, and I almost bought it, then I remembered I have half a set of Wiha screwdrivers I've had for over a decade, plus a set of Klein Journeyman screwdrivers, plus more Knipex and Klein 2000 series pullies and cutties than you can shake a stick at. Also several sets of metric Allen keys, including the brand new ball-end 3/8" drive set of Kobalts, of which the 5mm is permanently embedded in the power valve of my roomate's YZ125.
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Aug 5, 2020 06:29
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I really like my Wiha pliers wrench (having grown up with toothed cheap sliding pliers, etc). If you don't have something in that type yet (or need compound cutting pliers) and can use a set of screwdrivers and a pocket bit driver set, the Wiha deal is solid: it's good promo prices for those 3 items plus a free hat & bag. Since I got the pliers wrench on their last big Instagram sale, have good German screwdrivers in all the sizes I care about, and a $13 Gearwrench pocket bit set for when I don't want to run down to the garage to grab tools: I think I'm going to skip this.
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Aug 5, 2020 07:14
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This might be kind of a stupid question, but what tool do you guys like for separating balljoints? I've always used a pickle fork, either the manual kind or in an air chisel, but that's obviously pretty hard on the joints and chews up the boots. I'm going to be getting some nice rebuildable balljoints soon, rather than the sealed disposable kind I've used up to now, so I want a way to separate them in a "nice" way for e.g. changing springs. The styles I've seen are the ones that look like two fingers and a thumb, and the ones that look like a recognizer. What kind do you guys use if you're not going to toss the balljoint (or tierod end or whatever) after you've separated it?
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Aug 7, 2020 09:27
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Raluek posted:This might be kind of a stupid question, but what tool do you guys like for separating balljoints? I've always used a pickle fork, either the manual kind or in an air chisel, but that's obviously pretty hard on the joints and chews up the boots. I'm going to be getting some nice rebuildable balljoints soon, rather than the sealed disposable kind I've used up to now, so I want a way to separate them in a "nice" way for e.g. changing springs. For actual ball joints on the spindle, I used this on the Nova:  It's essentially a DIY version of some GM J-### tool that's $Texas if you can actually find them. Loosen the castle nut and run it out to the end of the threads on whichever joint you're wanting to pop, put the bolt head against that, slip the socket over the other joint's threads, and then use a couple wrenches to hold the bolt head and 'loosen' the nut in the middle of the tool. I used this when I replaced my control arms and it was turbo easy. Obviously it's not gonna work for tie rods or drag links or crap like that, but it's awesome when you have something to push against.
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Aug 7, 2020 13:16
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Raluek posted:The styles I've seen are the ones that look like two fingers and a thumb, and the ones that look like a recognizer The first ones are what I would call a ‘tie rod remover’ and what I generally use. I grab the pickle fork when that guy won’t fit for whatever reason. The second one is what I would call a ‘pitman arm remover’, you might be able to get it to work on some ball joints but it’s not meant for that.
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Aug 7, 2020 14:34
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Big Taint posted:The first ones are what I would call a ‘tie rod remover’ and what I generally use. I grab the pickle fork when that guy won’t fit for whatever reason. The second one is what I would call a ‘pitman arm remover’, you might be able to get it to work on some ball joints but it’s not meant for that. The other thing people forget is to whack the control arm or spindle or whatever with a BFH once the remover is on and tight. The shock will pop the joint free without wrecking the tool or destroying the part.
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Aug 7, 2020 14:49
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Raluek posted:This might be kind of a stupid question, but what tool do you guys like for separating balljoints? I've always used a pickle fork, either the manual kind or in an air chisel, but that's obviously pretty hard on the joints and chews up the boots. I'm going to be getting some nice rebuildable balljoints soon, rather than the sealed disposable kind I've used up to now, so I want a way to separate them in a "nice" way for e.g. changing springs. I use the first. The trick in using it is to lube the threads and tighten it up. Then smack the bolt with a hammer. Maybe retighten again, rinse, repeat. Mine is from HF and worked great. Edit, duh, yeah smack the arm not the bolt. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 14:57
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C-Bangin' it 
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I use the "smack the forging that the taper seats into to shock it loose" trick. 3lb hammer, fits nearly every vehicle.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:48
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sharkytm posted:The other thing people forget is to whack the control arm or spindle or whatever with a BFH once the remover is on and tight. The shock will pop the joint free without wrecking the tool or destroying the part. I do that, without the tool. Just loosen the castle nut. It almost always works and I don't have to go digging around for another tool I'm not gonna end up needing.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:52
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I've learned to take the castle nut off all the way first because up here in the land of natural oxidation loctite, if I break the taper free before removing the nut completely, it's pretty good odds it'll just spin 5ever and I will be very cross about it. Even if I jack it up to reseat the taper partially it's happened. It's really annoying.
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Aug 7, 2020 19:00
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kastein posted:I've learned to take the castle nut off all the way first because up here in the land of natural oxidation loctite, if I break the taper free before removing the nut completely, it's pretty good odds it'll just spin 5ever and I will be very cross about it. Even if I jack it up to reseat the taper partially it's happened. It's really annoying. Yea, good point. Thinking through it, I normally take it off all the way and then just thread it back on a bit to protect the threads if it's something that's getting re-used. If it's junk that's getting replaced it's already been brapp'd off and depending on location I'll put it back on a bit. It's basically just to keep things restrained a bit when it pops and/or I miss.
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Aug 7, 2020 19:40
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With castle nuts, I take them off, then put them on backwards until the face of the nut is flush with the threaded end and hit that. Provides a bigger, flat, area to hit.
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Aug 7, 2020 20:55
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I need to connect this kind of magnetic pin connector to a wire for a garage project. My plan was to just solder a wire to this pin on the back of the connector with my old radio shack cheap soldering iron. Any issues with this / better ideas? (coozie included for scale)  
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Aug 7, 2020 21:30
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Also transforms the castle nut into a deformed, locking thread castle nut, if your hammer is worth its salt. Or maybe I just mechanic like a 900lb gorilla. But I've learned the hard way that *I* shouldn't be trying to hit the end of the threaded stud, even with a nut on it, because every single time I do, it ends in sadness and frustration. I'm really glad I found the trick about hitting the part the taper goes through, because I have yet to destroy anything with that one, even giving an 8lb hand sledge every bit of anger I had in me.
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Aug 7, 2020 21:31
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Yeah don’t hammer on nuts, people.
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Aug 7, 2020 23:30
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I don't doubt that it's wrong, but it's worked for me.
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Aug 8, 2020 00:09
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Is this a rust belt thing or something? I've channeled meatpimp many times and never once deformed a nut/thread so bad that my impact wouldn't take it off. I probably wouldn't do it on parts I'm reusing but I'd do it in a heartbeat in something that's getting tossed. MomJeans420 posted:I need to connect this kind of magnetic pin connector to a wire for a garage project. My plan was to just solder a wire to this pin on the back of the connector with my old radio shack cheap soldering iron. Any issues with this / better ideas?
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Aug 8, 2020 00:20
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Big Taint posted:Yeah don’t hammer on nuts, people. Don't kink shame
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Aug 8, 2020 02:31
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Krakkles posted:Is this a rust belt thing or something? I've channeled meatpimp many times and never once deformed a nut/thread so bad that my impact wouldn't take it off. It's a rust belt thing. Also bonuspoints for linking the NASA wiring manual.
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Aug 8, 2020 03:06
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meatpimp posted:I don't doubt that it's wrong, but it's worked for me. I’ve never messed up one by hammering on the non-castellated side, and I’ve done literally hundreds. I don’t live in the rust belt, though.
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Aug 8, 2020 14:49
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I've mangled some ball joints by hammering on them with a flipped over castle nut. Usually mashes the nut and also ovals out the cotter pin hole in my case. Definite rust belt here though. I normally use a .498 air hammer on the knuckle/spindle. A cool nth way to pop ball joints free is to find a pinch point between the control arm and knuckle, compress the suspension with a floor jack, stick something in the pinch point and then lower the floor jack. Works extremely well on 6th generation Civics, and I've done it on a couple other cars with varying degrees of success. Not a good idea with stamped arms, but a good trick to know. Cringey video I made of it forever ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75Jlv-ZlYuQ
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Aug 8, 2020 16:21
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Big Taint posted:The first ones are what I would call a ‘tie rod remover’ and what I generally use. I grab the pickle fork when that guy won’t fit for whatever reason. The second one is what I would call a ‘pitman arm remover’, you might be able to get it to work on some ball joints but it’s not meant for that. Yeah I noticed 'em because I was borrowing a pitman arm puller from autozone, and they had a smaller one of the same design that they called a tie rod puller, so I thought hmm, maybe the bigger one would work ok on balljoints, because it would apply force straight down on it instead of at an angle. Guess it's not a thing that's done. I don't like the hammer methods because I've chewed stuff up in the past doing that, and it just seems like a bad way to go. I don't abuse my cars with salt, but I like to use the least destructive method available to me. Boaz, that simple spreader idea sounds pretty good, except aren't the balljoints not really inline with each other? Seems like you'd be applying the force a bit off-angle. Obviously it works for you, though, and your suspension is basically the same as mine. Sounds like the way to go is the 3-finger ones.
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Aug 9, 2020 06:06
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Near as I can tell, they're close enough to vertical where it doesn't really make a difference. Steady pressure with a couple wrenches has the joint popped in no time.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:05
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Krakkles posted:Strain relief (third item) is the only issue I'd be worried about with what you mention so far - if it's just soldered on, that solder is the only thing holding it on, basically. Can you attach the wire physically in some other form so that the electrical (solder) connection isn't the only thing holding it? That is something I should definitely figure out, I still haven't figured out how I'm mounting the connectors other than my plan was to make carefully sized holes in a plastic project box. I should be able to find some way to anchor the wires in there such that it doesn't pull on the soldered connection all the time.
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Aug 9, 2020 18:02
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MomJeans420 posted:That is something I should definitely figure out, I still haven't figured out how I'm mounting the connectors other than my plan was to make carefully sized holes in a plastic project box. I should be able to find some way to anchor the wires in there such that it doesn't pull on the soldered connection all the time. Add a connector to the enclosure its mounted in install the wires on the connector with a service loop by simply wrapping them around a pencil. See: https://rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html CTRL+F service loop.
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Aug 9, 2020 18:54
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Krakkles posted:I pondered this for awhile and ended up buying the Astro 65SL (link)  It's a darn good light! Used it today for the first time. The magnet is REALLY strong.
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Aug 10, 2020 02:17
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Anyone know if the bottle jacks land outside of the 'floor jacks' exclusion on the 20% coupon? https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html The air over hydraulic one, specifically. Going to go pick up the 20 ton press today and I'll be damned if I'm not getting the air jack too.
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Aug 11, 2020 17:57
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Hypnolobster posted:Anyone know if the bottle jacks land outside of the 'floor jacks' exclusion on the 20% coupon? Appears to be outside the exclusion, I.e., work:
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Aug 11, 2020 18:04
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Using the online store to check never occurred to me. Neat.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:10
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Yeah, nice trick. Thanks. And here I thought I was a HF veteran.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:39
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I've had the 20% off coupon work on the website but not in store for certain items before.
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Aug 12, 2020 01:30
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Well, the 20% didn't work on the drat 20t press, and I didn't bring the jack up to the register because I was planning on a second trip so I could get the 20% on both. e: I swear that Central Machinery never used to be excluded on the coupon Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 01:45
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