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Ferrule posted:You do need a connector on that Romex. Right, I have that medallion already (or one like it) to hide the rest of the hole, but we're talking almost an inch recessed lol Without it being flush, the medallion behind it would be warped and look like poo poo, unless I like....used a dremel to widen the hole in the medallion and screw it down over the footer thing 
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Aug 4, 2020 15:32
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What about a box extension?
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Aug 5, 2020 01:18
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Right, I have that medallion already (or one like it) to hide the rest of the hole, but we're talking almost an inch recessed lol O I see. It's the fan hanger bracket (where the ball of the post from the fan locks in) is what's higher. I thought it was just the junction box (which you've secured the the fan hanger too, which is okay). Can that hanger be rotated in any way so you can screw it directly to the joists? Looking at the pics probably not. You're doing everything right so far, dude. Don't stress. Was better than most folks. I'm going to stare at your pics a bit longer...figure out something.
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Aug 5, 2020 01:35
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 I did it! finally... I couldn't screw in one screw in the canopy ball part, and I cracked part of the medallion because I needed a better angle to screw the canopy cover on, but it's otherwise fine! However, I'm a little concerned with the wobbling on the highest setting (I've never owned a fan before) High speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juKYfe8SZAU Medium speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGhZXI_B2aY Medium is fine, but I'm not sure what else I can do here...I doubt the canopy ball cover would cause that. Manual says it's fine for there to be some wobble. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 02:55
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I can't see your video but the wobble is caused by unbalanced blades. Unless it's severe you're fine. If you're anal about it I'm sure there's a guide online about balancing it out.
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Aug 5, 2020 03:10
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SpartanIvy posted:I can't see your video but the wobble is caused by unbalanced blades. Unless it's severe you're fine. If you're anal about it I'm sure there's a guide online about balancing it out. And usually a little kit of weights in the box, too. It takes a little patience, but it's worth it, especially in a bedroom where the noise might be an issue.
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Aug 5, 2020 04:05
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I noticed that the contractors I hired to skim coat my bathroom didn't bother turning off the breaker box and just left the switch off while disconnecting the light fixture. Is that pretty standard practice?
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Aug 5, 2020 04:18
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sharkytm posted:And usually a little kit of weights in the box, too. It takes a little patience, but it's worth it, especially in a bedroom where the noise might be an issue. This is a Harbor Freight model, nothing like that here Barely even hear it on medium. Upstairs is only like, 6.5' high so no ceiling fan there lol
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Aug 5, 2020 04:36
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Bioshuffle posted:I noticed that the contractors I hired to skim coat my bathroom didn't bother turning off the breaker box and just left the switch off while disconnecting the light fixture. I've done it when working on light fixtures. Double checked the wires were dead with a multimeter and capped the wires as I was disconnecting them. Also you have to be the only person there or really trust everyone else not to flip the switch while you're working. Flipping the breaker is optimal but sometimes it's difficult to figure out which breaker goes to what.
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Aug 5, 2020 05:00
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Was watching a YouTube video earlier about EVSE installation and it reminded of something I've always wondered. Why in California do they always have their breaker panel on the outside of the house? In the Midwest this is never done.. it's always inside.
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Aug 5, 2020 05:38
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Earthquakes?
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Aug 5, 2020 05:53
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Can't be just that, every house I've lived in here in AZ has external panels too. Only times I've ever seen the panel indoors is in apartments. I'd wager construction costs, or lack of a basement, or otherwise not wanting to sacrifice interior wall space.
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Aug 5, 2020 06:14
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External breaker panels are a thing? That is loving insane to me, but now that I think about it, a lot of TV where they do poo poo to the breakers outside the house before breaking in suddenly make sense. I grew up in MI and now live in WA — could not imagine any homeowner tolerating an external panel in either place.
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Aug 5, 2020 06:23
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movax posted:External breaker panels are a thing? That is loving insane to me, but now that I think about it, a lot of TV where they do poo poo to the breakers outside the house before breaking in suddenly make sense. Not having a winter or significant amounts of weather is a contributor to exterior panels.
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Aug 5, 2020 12:39
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Not having a winter or significant amounts of weather is a contributor to exterior panels. Having looked at my panels in the basement, where the paint is caked on, the door isn't very secure at obscuring the wiring behind it, etc, that makes me nervous.
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Aug 5, 2020 13:07
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Having looked at my panels in the basement, where the paint is caked on, the door isn't very secure at obscuring the wiring behind it, etc, that makes me nervous. To be fair, the panels mounted outside are rated for it and cost more than indoor panels. They usually have a padlock hook as well, which you don't see on indoor panels for obvious reasons. Even still, watching videos online of work in outdoor panels is exactly what I'd expect: many are filled with spiderwebs/bugs, and the corrosion is way worse than you usually see in indoor panels. Electricians in states with outdoor panels must love it, because I can't imagine they last much more than 20 years exposed to the elements. Indoor panels easily go 40+ years.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:01
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Didn't they add a requirement for an exterior disconnect/main breaker on the newest code revision? Most new construction here uses a combination panel outside, and still has an interior subpanel that feeds the interior circuits. I think it's a good thing, because it gives an easy way to run exterior circuits.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:06
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B-Nasty posted:To be fair, the panels mounted outside are rated for it and cost more than indoor panels. They usually have a padlock hook as well, which you don't see on indoor panels for obvious reasons. Let me tell you about working on an electrical service installed in the 30s. Knob-and-tube in a barn, almost entirely exposed fuse panel. The "door" opened to the outside of the barn; it was just a piece of wood. The interior of the barn had some more wood covering the bus bars. Not a hint of corrosion anywhere. 2^n spiders. New Mexico. The right climate goes a LONG WAY to not having corrosion or electrical problems. So much of the stuff they called for in the NEC I was amazed about because after a decade of working electrical I'd never seen any of it, because no moisture, never any condensing humidity, no driving rain, no periods of snow, no frost heaving, no prolonged temperatures below 40F for more than a day or so.... It's basically a testbed of "throw the wire nearby and if it's touching it'll last sixty years." However, we always ran triple or quadruple ground rods into salt reservoirs to get the ground impedance low enough. "Single ground rod" was so foreign to me.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:10
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angryrobots posted:Didn't they add a requirement for an exterior disconnect/main breaker on the newest code revision? This is how my house (built in 2013) is. The meter box has a main 200A shutoff. But it also has a small 6 position breaker panel under the main shutoff. The main panel inside the house looks like a normal breaker panel and also has another 200A shutoff, but it is wired like a subpanel (i.e. the neutral and ground is not bonded). This made it very easy to run a subpanel to my attached garage as I was able to install a breaker in the meter base and jump off to the garage from there.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:14
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The right climate goes a LONG WAY to not having corrosion or electrical problems. Yep. The panel on my mom's house is original (very near 40yrs) and doesn't have a lick of corrosion on it. Mine is just over 20 and the only problem is the door hinges are slightly tweaked, and that's been the case since before I moved in. Have to lift the door slightly to get it to line up with the hook for the padlock, which I've never used because needing a key to get to my main disconnect sounds like a bad plan.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:48
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I put up a ceiling fan/light last night. Hunter Dempsey model 59246. (on a remote) I used the two supplied LED bulbs that came with the thing. They'll dim/go off every so often. No real "every 5 minutes" type thing. Anyone have an experience with this? I contacted their help desk and am waiting for a response. Seems silly since I used what came in the box. I am not new at this so I'm a bit perplexed/angry.
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Aug 10, 2020 16:45
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Ferrule posted:I put up a ceiling fan/light last night. Hunter Dempsey model 59246. (on a remote) Pull it down, take all the garbage factory crimps apart and replace them with your own supplied wire nuts. You've got a loose connection in there. The fans are cheap because they do about 40 seconds of QA on them before they leave the factory. Hunter will give you the runaround and eventually have you return it to the place you got it from and they'll hand you a new one.
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Aug 10, 2020 16:58
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I used my own wires nuts for line to transmitter, transmitter to fan. My connections are fine. Are you talking about the weirdo light kit connection? This thing:  Cuz if that's the problem thats on the manufacturer and its bullshit.
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Aug 10, 2020 17:07
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Swap the bulbs and see if the problem remains. Most led bulbs are low quality dogshit. Doubly so for bulbs that are included with anything.
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Aug 10, 2020 17:25
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Ferrule posted:Are you talking about the weirdo light kit connection? That's what's known as a "Molex" connector, popular in computers (and cars). I was surprised to see one in my fan kit too but immediately knew what was up.
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Aug 10, 2020 21:12
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TacoHavoc posted:Swap the bulbs and see if the problem remains. Most led bulbs are low quality dogshit. Doubly so for bulbs that are included with anything. Did this. Pulse happened again although not as frequently. GreenBuckanneer posted:That's what's known as a "Molex" connector, popular in computers (and cars). I was surprised to see one in my fan kit too but immediately knew what was up. Ive seen these things for years in light kits and never knew they had a name. Thanks. But now I'm guessing that's the issue. Christ...
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Aug 10, 2020 22:40
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Let me ask now - if it is this Molex, what do I do? Just cut them both off and just wire-nut each line one together? I mean, that makes sense but is loving stupid considering the fan should have ...yeah, I know.
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Aug 10, 2020 22:53
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Ferrule posted:Let me ask now - if it is this Molex, what do I do? Just cut them both off and just wire-nut each line one together? I mean, that makes sense but is loving stupid considering the fan should have ...yeah, I know. Or pop em out and fix the crimps. Molex connectors are generally strong connections - unless they were manufactured poorly. They are ubiquitous, every mini-tower style computer has at least 1 these days, if not 2 or 3, your fridge's icemaker probably uses one, etc. It's how hard drives used to get their power, gpu's get it today, motherboard, etc. You should be able to replicate the failure, hang the fan by it's little installer hook and fire up the lights. Grab the molex connector by the bundle of wires on either side and give em a good few tugs/wiggles/etc. If the lights don't flicker, it's not the molex connector and you shouldn't waste your time there. Or do it on a bench with a uh, custom outlet to fan adapter.
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Aug 10, 2020 22:58
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I got rid of all the pre-crimped nuts to the lights and made my own splices. Still flicker. Tugged the Molex and no flicker, you you're point Hawk. Hots (switchleg) seem fine. Neutral goes into another little device. I'm betting that's it? I'm goin to call hunter and bitch. This has never happened to me before and I can't count the number of fans I've hung.
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Aug 10, 2020 23:34
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Let me know what you find out. I have a hunter fan with a light kit that did the same thing and has since stopped working entirely. Tried troubleshooting the connector with a meter once and didn't really make any headway. It's on an infrequently used fixture so it's no big deal, but it'd be interesting to see what else it could be.
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Aug 11, 2020 00:11
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I will. Pretty sure I just got a bum fixture. Which means I can get a replacement but that also means taking this dumb thing down and installing a new one. Crud.
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Aug 11, 2020 00:21
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Just got off the phone with Hunter. It's a apparently a bad receiver. It's been a bit of an issue this year, it seems, bad receivers. So now I wait 5-7 business days for a new receiver. DaveSauce, I'd call Hunter 1.888.830.1326 and talk to them.
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Aug 11, 2020 15:37
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Ferrule posted:Just got off the phone with Hunter. It's a apparently a bad receiver. It's been a bit of an issue this year, it seems, bad receivers. Well gently caress. Mine doesn't have a remote... Oh well, thanks for the update anyhow! Maybe this weekend I'll finally call them or something. Or just pull it down and try harder to troubleshoot it...
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Aug 11, 2020 16:03
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I'm looking to get an additional electrical outlet installed in my bathroom next to my toilet. There is currently already an outlet in the bathroom not too far from where I need an additional one. Does anyone have any idea how much electricians generally charge for this? What kind of electrician I should seek out?
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Aug 11, 2020 21:47
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I'm trying to get a sense about what's making our electricity bill so high. In general I tend to really hate all of the iot garbage out there, but I was curious about what folks in here think of something like Sense. Is this another one of those things that will break my poo poo and leave me in the dark when the power goes out or the company goes bankrupt?
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Aug 12, 2020 01:46
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El Mero Mero posted:I'm trying to get a sense about what's making our electricity bill so high. In general I tend to really hate all of the iot garbage out there, but I was curious about what folks in here think of something like Sense. Is this another one of those things that will break my poo poo and leave me in the dark when the power goes out or the company goes bankrupt? I'm thinking of installing an IoTaWatt setup, an open power monitoring system similar to Sense but without the questionably-useful machine learning appliance detection or the need for a company to be alive and running servers in the cloud: https://iotawatt.com/
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Aug 12, 2020 02:00
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You can also just try getting a $40 Kill A Watt and plugging poo poo into it and making a spreadsheet.
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Aug 12, 2020 02:03
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El Mero Mero posted:I'm trying to get a sense about what's making our electricity bill so high. In general I tend to really hate all of the iot garbage out there, but I was curious about what folks in here think of something like Sense. Is this another one of those things that will break my poo poo and leave me in the dark when the power goes out or the company goes bankrupt? Well it's a really expensive wireless device that will give you an answer that a much cheaper device would do, if that's even necessary. Your highest energy use is generally going to heat/cool your home, so it's usually the best place to start looking, especially since we're mid-summer (I'm assuming you're in the northern hemisphere). What's your climate like, and how do you have your thermostat set? How old is your home (or if older, has it been reinsulated)? How old is your HVAC system and how well does it seem to be working (ie, does it seem to be running all the time to reach your thermostat setpoint)? Also, what's your kwh usage that seems high, and what does your electric utility charge per kwh?
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Aug 12, 2020 02:06
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Your biggest bang for your buck is likely anything that changes temperature with electricity. Unplugging your phone charger and turning out your led light bulbs is going to save you a dollar or two a year. With the above information and quarterly averages by temperature you should be able to narrow it down. If it's not explained there you likely have a dangerous leak of electricity somewhere (nearly 0 chance) or have a bitcoin farm or similar and I feel like you would know it. You can get a gut feeling by just turning on your climate control, watch your meter spin or read out the instant draw, turn it off, compare. Mine for example is like 0.40 kw (note that it not hours) off, 3.5kw on. It's really obvious that if I want to save money I need to learn to love higher temperatures inside my house.
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Aug 12, 2020 02:16
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A/C is going to be, by far, your biggest cost. Unless you're WAY in the north (i.e. Canada or Scandinavia), or are in the south during a cold spell and have to run emergency heat strips, that's all there is to it. Electric range/oven, refrigerators/freezers, and electric water heater will be next in line. But A/C is going to be your best bet. Your local electric utility may offer programs where they send a tech out to evaluate your home's efficiency at their cost (because it's in their best interest to reduce load on the grid). They'll probably give you a few LED bulbs and shoot a thermal camera at walls/ceilings to see if you have obvious insulation deficiencies. A programmable thermostat will also be on their list of recommendations, and they'll tell you to kick it up a few degrees when you're home.
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Aug 12, 2020 02:28
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