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Butterfly Valley posted:It'll be around Christmas before I order everything, but I'm looking at an NR200 build with a Ryzen 3700x and either an RTX3070 or 80. The 600W Corsair Platinum SF PSU should be more than enough to power that with a 3080 right? Yes. KingKapalone posted:I got an EVGA G3 550W last year for my Ryzen 3600 upgrade, but now it looks like I'm going to need a new one already for a 3080! Would 650 work if that's what's available or would 750 make it comfortable? Is it still just the G3 or the Seasonic Focus? How's this CM? https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cooler...p?skuId=6333805 Corsair golds (RM, TXM, RMX), Seasonic golds (focus / plus, GM, GX), and EVGA G# are still the easy go-to PSUs but are often out of stock these days. Those CMs MWEs are a step down in output quality but perfectly acceptable in all important respects (full set of protections, 50C operating temperature, 10 year warranty). At $120 I'd rather have some other options including a 650 of better quality. But finding stock is the question. A 650 is good for a 3080. Right now what I see in stock is a Corsair RM and this FSP Hydro.
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Sep 3, 2020 17:44
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Looking to do either a 3070 or 3080 build, would my current 650w power supply be enough? It is a Corsair CX650m. I would probably be running a 3700x as well.
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Sep 3, 2020 18:53
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Harry Privates posted:Looking to do either a 3070 or 3080 build, would my current 650w power supply be enough? It is a Corsair CX650m. I would probably be running a 3700x as well. Should be with the 3070, and possibly with the 3080, but don't OC much I guess. Should know more in the coming weeks.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:13
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In the GPU thread there’s a screencap from an Nvidia video showing the 3080 using almost 500 watts at load.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:18
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Rollie Fingers posted:In the GPU thread there’s a screencap from an Nvidia video showing the 3080 using almost 500 watts at load. I was so glad I went with an 850w after I saw that. I assume that’s under some insane overclocking (the clock was up to almost 2k in that screenshot) but still.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:21
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What country are you in? UK] What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? £1500 for parts (not including graphics card or monitor) If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? At the moment I run an Asus PB278 for 1080p gaming. This may change in the future, but for now I'll keep this. The PC I have at the moment is : I7 6700K with a H100iGTX Gigabyte Z107X - UD5 TH-CF 16 Gig DDR 4 Intel SSD 750 series 400GB + 2 TB & 3TB HD's GTX 980 Power supply is a Corsair RM 1000x I am looking to buy a 3080 and upgrade in the next few weeks (unless you tell me I should wait for new Intel/AMD trumpet heralds of new tech), but I bought this PC in 2016 and have no clue whether to go AMD or Intel, get 16 or 32 gig RAM. Please help ! Pazzeh fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 19:52
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If a chip is consuming 500W and it's not using exotic cooling of some sort, I'll print every page of this thread and eat it. Anyways Harry Privates posted:Looking to do either a 3070 or 3080 build, would my current 650w power supply be enough? It is a Corsair CX650m. I would probably be running a 3700x as well. With a 3080, at nvidia's official power consumption of 320W, that PSU is very marginal. It'll work, but with some major asterisks. The CXm is less efficient and is spec'ed for 40C operation. At ~450-500W total system power it will produce 80-100W of waste heat. If your case is a bottom-mount one where the PSU gets air from outside the case, that's ok. Just make sure the dust filters are cleaned regularly and that it can get airflow. If your case is an older one where the PSU is getting hot air from inside the case, I would not be at all happy about that. These types of qualifications are why nvidia says it needs a 750. A 650 can work, but it really wants to be a good 650 rather than a cheap one unless you have an ideal environment. That PSU in a hot case or with choked air will be too hot and kill itself.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:54
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Klyith posted:If a chip is consuming 500W and it's not using exotic cooling of some sort, I'll print every page of this thread and eat it. Thank you! I’ve been leaning towards the 3070 due to not using 4K currently so this kind of helps that decision.
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Sep 3, 2020 21:19
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if my mobo power plug fits like this (with a few extra on the side) is that fine? asus tuf gaming x570-plus wifi super flower leadex iii gold 
Jinnigan fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 22:37
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im a djpshit. its backwards
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Sep 3, 2020 22:41
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Is a 20+4 pin enough to power the whole mobo and CPU? The CPU cables I got..... don't actually fit the CPU and PSU on both ends
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Sep 3, 2020 23:10
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Jinnigan posted:Is a 20+4 pin enough to power the whole mobo and CPU? The CPU cables I got..... don't actually fit the CPU and PSU on both ends Eh? Post pics.
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Sep 3, 2020 23:12
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interesting, this is the exact problem i have. same issue with the power cable, exact same incorrect CPU cable layout: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/754718-solved-8-pin-cpu-power-cable-doesnt-fit/
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Sep 3, 2020 23:20
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Looks like somebody silkscreened the wrong label on some cables at the factory.
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Sep 3, 2020 23:23
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Some Goon posted:Eh? Post pics.  two ends of one CPU cable. both of my two CPU cables are like this easiest thing will be to express order the compatible EVGA PSU cables? how do i figure out which ones are compatible with the leadex iii gold?
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Sep 3, 2020 23:24
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I am thinking about cooling for a new PC build. Case I plan on using a PC-O11 Dynamic case. It supports three 120mm fans on top, three 120 mm fans on bottom, and an unusual three 120mm fans on the side of the case near the front. This case cannot mount fans in the classic front position, only the side near the front. Furthermore, the case cannot mount a rear exhaust fan (at least it isn't intended to, I've seen a few mods which put a fan there). Cooling equipment I plan to use: - 3x120mm fans in all three mounting locations (top, bottom, side-front) - Of the above 9 fans, 3x will be mounted on the AIO radiator - Geforce 3090 FE with stock air cooling Note than the 3090 intakes air on the bottom and exhausts hot air out the back and out the top, into the case, toward the CPU. Cooling setup options Best: - Three fans on bottom as intake - Three fans on top as exhaust - Three fans + AIO radiator on side front as intake But this may not fit, depending on whether the AIO tubes are long enough to reach the bottom of the front of the case. I do not want to put the tubes at the top of the front per this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk Second option: - Three fans + AIO radiator on top as intake - Three fans as intake on bottom - Three fans on side front as exhaust This is backward from most cases, which intake air from the front and exhaust it out the back. However, because I can't exhaust air out the back (there's no fan mount), exhausting out the front seems fine. This also allows me to orient the AIO radiator properly. The only downside is the top air intake would be pushing air toward the bottom, and the bottom intake (and GPU exhaust) will be pushing air toward the top, creating a higher pressure zone in the middle. It probably doesn't matter, but I'm here to ask y'all if it matters. Does it? Third option: - You tell me. Got a better idea? Chimp_On_Stilts fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 23:40
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Jinnigan posted:
 That is the EPS 12V connector. The one on the left in your pic is the side that goes to the mobo. One half of the connector having all D pins rather than the squares and Ds is a common thing, I've never been clear why. I think it's because these connectors only care about being right side up. Get your case out onto a table where you can get some light and see what you're working on, because you seem to be doing everything by feel and that's not great. I don't know how you got the 24pin mobo connector upside down and offset but that's like you're going way wrong here. Look at the plug for the tab that the latch hooks to, you need to get things right side up and the tab-latch orientation is why they assume you won't gently caress that up.
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Sep 3, 2020 23:46
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Harry Privates posted:Looking to do either a 3070 or 3080 build, would my current 650w power supply be enough? It is a Corsair CX650m. I would probably be running a 3700x as well. This is how you look at PSUs guys. Every PSU has a spec for their +12V rail. It is usually printed on the box that you bought it in or you can look it up online. Beside the 12V number is the number of Amps that it can output on that rail. The CPU and GPUs will draw power from this 12V rail. Watts = Volts x Amps. This is a pic of my power supply spec off the box.  Note that the 12V rail can pump up to 45.8 Amps? that means this Corsair unit can deliver almost all of its 550 rated watts on the 12 V rail. Of course, my PSU also has to power the various things (3x 120mm, CPU cooler, SSDs, Mice, Keyboard etc) that are typically run off the 3.3v or 5v rails. Corsair promises me 550W max but they are flexible in how they can deliver that 550W throughout the system (note the Max combined output boxes). Now some lovely PSUs from no-name brand manufactured in Timbuktu might say it is also a 550W PSU but it might have a poo poo +12V rail that might only give me 30 Amps and it says it is a 550W PSU because the COMBINED wattage coming out of the PSU's various rails will add up to 550W but the limits on each individual rail is poo poo. This is why we always tell people to not gently caress around and pay for a name brand PSU because they will not gently caress you over like this. So when you see Nvidia tell you the 3070, for example, is going to eat 325W, you need to look at your PSU's 12 V rail and do some rough math. They recommend a 750W PSU but you probably won't need a 750W PSU if your PSU is of good quality and has a solid +12V rail and your combined system wattage remains within the power delivery envelope for your PSU. It is not recommended to push your PSU to the max limit though and to leave headroom since PSUs do degrade over time and their rated wattage may go down. The good news is even if you push your PSU too hard, if it is a good unit, no damage will be done, you will simply have instability in the system when the CPU and GPU demand the power but the PSU can't give it what it wants. I have heard some crazy things happening with shittier units though but regardless, I wouldn't play with fire. Leave some headroom.
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Sep 3, 2020 23:46
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Klyith posted:
This got me sorted out. Thanks for the advice!
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Sep 4, 2020 00:11
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What country are you in? USA. SF Bay Area specifically (No Microcenter) What are you using the system for? Gaming, mainly. I'd also like it to be capable of playing the new stuff @ 2560x1440p 144hz while potentially having a family member streaming from my plex server (Also maybe transcoding?) What's your budget? Ideally ~$2000 including a RTX 3080. There's wiggle room if need be. I'll be using my 1070 until I can get said GPU. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Nothing big. Maybe some Affinity Photo for fun but nothing taxing. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 2560 x 1440 @ 144hz. Second monitor is just 1080p. Ideally at some point in the future I'll be making the 1440p the secondary and getting a 4k monitor but it's not anytime soon. My main question is the best way to build this PC around jumping in line with everyone else to get a 3080. It's my first PC since this one I built with my 6700k and GTX 1070 which has served me well. Only other notes would be my apartment does get very hot in the summer so good cooling/airflow is something I have to consider. People streaming from my plex server won't happen terribly often (Even less so with transcoding) but I'd like to be prepared for it. I also have all the storage / peripherals I need except for maybe one good main fast SSD to be my C:\ drive. 1-2 Tb. Also I'd be most comfortable with a Mid-Tower but if I need to go full for the 3080 I can work with it. I'm ready to buy parts as quickly as this week, but I can hold for some deals too, especially if I'll be unable to get a 3080 at launch (Which is likely depending on stock.) Thanks all! DarkestLite fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 01:23
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I have a weird question. What's a stupid cheap, STUPID CHEAP video card that I can add to a 2700x proxmox server? I got a 2700x for a song a while back and I'm slowly putting together a VM host with it and stupid me forgot that's there's no APU. Like fanless, extremely basic video out. There won't even be a GUI on this machine as it'll be running Debian Linux/Proxmox. Even the base 10xx card feels like a waste of power on this.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:38
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Matt Zerella posted:I have a weird question. If ALL you need is video out https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphic-Interface-GV-N710D5-1GL/dp/B083DKXF3P Single slot, low power, doesn't do anything except for drive a display. Also, since the GT710 is old as hell it's supported decently under Linux due to its prevalence as video adapter for homebrew servers. orange juche fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 02:43
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I have no clue the form factor of your server but if it can take regular pcie probably something like an Nvidia 710 is going to be about as cheap rear end as you can get.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:44
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It's just in a fractal case. I'll look into the 710. Thanks! Should work perfectly.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:45
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How bad of idea is putting an rtx 3080 and AMD RYZEN 9 3900X into an nzxt H1? I really like the nzxts H1 aesthetic but I suspect cooling is going to be a problem.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:47
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Duck and Cover posted:How bad of idea is putting an rtx 3080 and AMD RYZEN 9 3900X into an nzxt H1? I really like the nzxts H1 aesthetic but I suspect cooling is going to be a problem. The cooling for an RTX 3080 may be interesting if you go with the FE card, due to the interesting routing on the cooler. The CPU and the GPU are separated by a divider in the middle of the case though, and draw air from opposite sides. When you deal with tiny cases like that though you're always trading size for noise and heat, so it will be louder and hotter potentially.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:56
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orange juche posted:The cooling for an RTX 3080 may be interesting if you go with the FE card, due to the interesting routing on the cooler. The CPU and the GPU are separated by a divider in the middle of the case though, and draw air from opposite sides. Well alternatively I'll probably use Ncase m1 / Loque Ghost S1 / or Dan A4-SFX that I have access to. So it's not like the alternatives are bigger but I imagine that tempered glass that the H1 has does it no favors for cooling.
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Sep 4, 2020 03:08
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DarkestLite posted:My main question is the best way to build this PC around jumping in line with everyone else to get a 3080. Gonna handle this one first since it's also general info for everyone: if you can stand waiting, don't preorder the "founder's edition" cards straight from nvidia. Once the OEM cards come out the prices will quickly be $50-100 cheaper for the basic spec cards. (And $100 more for the super-OC x-treme gamer RGB cards, but those are always bad value.) Nvidia's coolers look very interesting but I'm not sure they're gonna be a complete revolution. DarkestLite posted:What are you using the system for? Gaming, mainly. I'd also like it to be capable of playing the new stuff @ 2560x1440p 144hz while potentially having a family member streaming from my plex server (Also maybe transcoding?) A 3700X for the CPU will help with the random transcoding (though you should set up plex to use the GPU for the encoding side of that). Compact mesh-front mid-towers like the Meshify are fine for a high-heat system because, despite being small, they have tons of airflow with a couple 1400mm fans. More air volume really doesn't get you much in terms of cooling, it's all about how fast you exchange inside air with outside air. So here's a build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.75 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550M BAZOOKA Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($149.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($93.98 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.97 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Total: $877.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-03 22:15 EDT-0400 After the 3080 you still have cash left for a bigass NVMe drive -- though you might want to wait on that until the same time as when you pull the trigger for the 3080. New models of nvme drives seem to be coming shortly. As a note, I have the solid-panel meshify there because you didn't mention any looks preferences. If you want a case with glass, they got glass. And there are plenty of options for adding blinkenlights if that's your thing.
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Sep 4, 2020 03:24
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:I am thinking about cooling for a new PC build. I have an 011 Dynamic and just use 3 intake fans on the side. I use an air cooler so that's blowing that air out the back and/or up I guess. GamersNexus tested a bunch of configs for the case and they said this one worked. Don't know if AIO changes things though.
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Sep 4, 2020 03:24
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What happened to Corsair cases? Finished building my new computer and cracked open my old one and it sent me down a whole memory lane when Corsair was one of the most popular casemakers around. But I've spent like a month researching this new build and not even a single one of Corsair's cases were ever recommended.
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Sep 4, 2020 05:16
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Jinnigan posted:What happened to Corsair cases? Finished building my new computer and cracked open my old one and it sent me down a whole memory lane when Corsair was one of the most popular casemakers around. But I've spent like a month researching this new build and not even a single one of Corsair's cases were ever recommended. First they bit hard on the glass + rgb fans thing and got surprised when everyone suddenly realized that air cannot pass through a glass front panel. Now they're about to do an IPO and cases are I think the lowest-margin item in all PC parts, so I am kinda guessing they punted on any major new case designs in the past year or two. Their most up-to-date thing has been cutting some holes in the front panel of a case to make it "airflow".
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Sep 4, 2020 05:40
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Nvm the thread has my recommendation
mizbachevenim fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 08:34
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Klyith posted:Gonna handle this one first since it's also general info for everyone: if you can stand waiting, don't preorder the "founder's edition" cards straight from nvidia. Once the OEM cards come out the prices will quickly be $50-100 cheaper for the basic spec cards. (And $100 more for the super-OC x-treme gamer RGB cards, but those are always bad value.) Nvidia's coolers look very interesting but I'm not sure they're gonna be a complete revolution. Firstly, thanks so much for putting this together. I really only have a few questions. I absolutely adore the case design and the mesh front seems like a great idea for my needs. My only issue is the Max GPU size. It says 315mm and I know the FE of the 3080 is ~290, meaning the giant 3-fan cards will be longer (MSI will have some at 323, if techpowerup is to be believed). Should this be something I should worry about? I was looking at the Lian Li PC-011 (Not that much bigger than my current NZXT S340) at one point as I know it’s a beloved case (Also can fit up to 420mm GPU yeeeesh) but I have the same fear about airflow. My only other question was is if 650w is enough for the PSU. Nvidia “recommends” 750w but I know that’s more of a precautionary thing and that just getting a good PSU matters more. Also, I didn’t realize some mobos have WiFi/Bluetooth. I, for now, have to use a WiFi connection for my PC so if there’s a mobo I can swap in that has one or both of those, that would save me using extra USB ports. Thanks again! My buddy plans on following this same build And we’re both looking forward to upgrading. DarkestLite fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 08:57
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:Note than the 3090 intakes air on the bottom and exhausts hot air out the back and out the top, into the case, toward the CPU. Edit: I'm not too worried about ~half the GPU's heat being blown towards the CPU cooler; most non-blower GPUS already deposit most of their heat into the case, so these Nvidia coolers might actually be better in that regard than the partner designs. I'll wait for the benchmarks and teardowns to see if "OMG my poor Noctua air cooler" is an overblown fear. Chimp_On_Stilts posted:This is backward from most cases, which intake air from the front and exhaust it out the back. However, because I can't exhaust air out the back (there's no fan mount), exhausting out the front seems fine. orange juche posted:The cooling for an RTX 3080 may be interesting if you go with the FE card, due to the interesting routing on the cooler. The CPU and the GPU are separated by a divider in the middle of the case though, and draw air from opposite sides. Vir fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 09:48
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Klyith posted:After the 3080 you still have cash left for a bigass NVMe drive -- though you might want to wait on that until the same time as when you pull the trigger for the 3080. New models of nvme drives seem to be coming shortly. Do you have any more info on this? Not that I am questioning the validity! Mainly, my build is in a holding pattern really until I can get a 3080 card anyway, so I'm in no rush to order anything. I have been looking at doing a 2TB PCIe 4 main M.2 drive and then one or two PCIe 3 secondary drives, and the choices seem limited currently.
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Sep 4, 2020 11:15
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Samadhi posted:Do you have any more info on this? Not that I am questioning the validity! Mainly, my build is in a holding pattern really until I can get a 3080 card anyway, so I'm in no rush to order anything. I have been looking at doing a 2TB PCIe 4 main M.2 drive and then one or two PCIe 3 secondary drives, and the choices seem limited currently. None of the current pcie 4 drives are worth buying even for synthetic benchmark performance, never mind real life. Samsung 980 pro 4.0 might be the first to come out that is, but it's going to be like 2-3 times as much money apparently.
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Sep 4, 2020 11:22
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sean10mm posted:None of the current pcie 4 drives are worth buying even for synthetic benchmark performance, never mind real life. Samsung 980 pro 4.0 might be the first to come out that is, but it's going to be like 2-3 times as much money apparently. Is this true even with the NVidia IO direct-to-GPU process?
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Sep 4, 2020 11:32
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I got an X570 Aorus Master motherboard and I have a problem with it: about half the time when it boots, it seems to have lost the time. Date is fine, just the time is gone. Also when I boot into the bios, it says that cmos has reset. I'm thinking of returning it and getting a different model and brand. Any suggestions for something with similar features? Preferably with either great RGB software included (RGB Fusion is pretty poo poo), or great compatibility with OpenRGB. Other hardware is a Ryzen 3900X, 2x 16 GB Crucial Ballistix RGB, DDR4-3600 MHz (BL2K16G36C16U4BL) and I'll upgrade to one of the new nVidia cards when it comes out. Everything sits inside a Cooler Master H500M and is powered by a Seasonic Prime TX 850W.
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Sep 4, 2020 11:46
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uXs posted:I got an X570 Aorus Master motherboard and I have a problem with it: about half the time when it boots, it seems to have lost the time. Date is fine, just the time is gone. It's very unlikely, but it may have shipped with a depleted/bad CMOS battery on the board. Have you tried replacing the battery (the flat watch battery between the PCIe x16 slots, based on the picture of the board)?
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Sep 4, 2020 11:52
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This is the picture on Newegg of my new case: So, silly of me to assume it came with three case fans instead of just the one in the back. Should I go ahead and get two more to put in the front panel or just keep an eye on temps and get them if I need them?
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Sep 4, 2020 11:56
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