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movax
Aug 30, 2008


I did not know those were things.

I've been thinking about doing a Meshify C build... and then I saw this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-fractal-atx-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi

I thought I read somewhere that the R6/Meshify C have the same internal structure, just differ in some external cosmetics? Wonder if that would work in a Meshify C.

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Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

movax posted:

I did not know those were things.

I've been thinking about doing a Meshify C build... and then I saw this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-fractal-atx-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi

I thought I read somewhere that the R6/Meshify C have the same internal structure, just differ in some external cosmetics? Wonder if that would work in a Meshify C.

It says it supports the Meshify S2, isn't that more or less the same case? If so it'd help a ton, my C is kinda jammed with tubing

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

It says it supports the Meshify S2, isn't that more or less the same case? If so it'd help a ton, my C is kinda jammed with tubing

Nah, the S2 is loving massive compared to the C — I built my work machine in a S2 and it's quite a bit longer. I really need something that's compact enough to mount in a CPU holder under my standing desk — not sure if anyone's found a good Goldilocks case for water cooling + mounting under a desk.

What rad config do you have in your C? I'm thinking 240 mm, 360 mm rads, D5 pump, HEATKILLER IV PRO WB so far.

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

movax posted:

Nah, the S2 is loving massive compared to the C — I built my work machine in a S2 and it's quite a bit longer. I really need something that's compact enough to mount in a CPU holder under my standing desk — not sure if anyone's found a good Goldilocks case for water cooling + mounting under a desk.

What rad config do you have in your C? I'm thinking 240 mm, 360 mm rads, D5 pump, HEATKILLER IV PRO WB so far.

I have a single 360 slim. I've seen people put a 240 up top as well, but I ended up sticking my res there

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Anyone have experience with the quality on Bykski water blocks? They're the only company that has announced a 30xx FE block, but I'm not familiar with their reputation like I am EK or Alphacool.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Now, if the front of that plate was a huge aluminium heatsink...

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
What are the pros and cons of going (EVGA RTX3080 XC3 or founders edition RTX3080) + aftermarket waterblock (EK probably) vs an EVGA RTX 3080 Hydrocopper?

Do we know if the hydrocopper will include RGB effects and if so how they will get controlled?

Has anyone announced full coverage blocks for the 3070 yet?

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

ilkhan posted:

What are the pros and cons of going (EVGA RTX3080 XC3 or founders edition RTX3080) + aftermarket waterblock (EK probably) vs an EVGA RTX 3080 Hydrocopper?

Do we know if the hydrocopper will include RGB effects and if so how they will get controlled?

Has anyone announced full coverage blocks for the 3070 yet?

The hydrocopper blocks have typically been very (flow) restrictive and subpar. Their reputation has improved but I still think they're hideous and the flow ports are spaced in a janky way

Preinstalled blocks can be a nice improvement in ease of wareanty depending on where you live, and they save a bit of hassle. It's up to you if that's worth it, you can definitely get a better block and mount it with better TIM if you're happy to do it yourself

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
I've never pulled a gpu cooler off, but it sounds like an aftermarket might be betterer. Can run it on air for a minute for testing too.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
One upside of buying the GPU and block separately is it may be possible to continue using the back plate that came with the GPU, you won't have to pay EK another $30 for their back plate. My card is a MSI Sea Hawk X (the AIO GTX 1080) that I removed the AIO from and put on a EK full cover block instead, but I'm still using the stock back plate which honestly looks better than the EK one to me. It works because it is a reference board (same PCB as the FEs), EK says you can't use factory back plates with their water blocks but good luck figuring out why because they have all the same mounting holes in all the same dimensions.

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.


Man this O11D is so much easier to build in. Though there were still some hangups. There wasn't enough space to attach my GPU's rgb strip so I had to unscrew and move the bottom radiator to fit it in. The pump is higher than I'd like so any time I fill the rest I'll need to remove the fan above. And I'm not sure if I want to shorten that run from the CPU to the top radiator. I have spare tubing so I might give it a shot.

But overall it was way easier than jamming things in my Meshify C

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.
Double post but I finished the new loop



I ran OCCT on the full power stress test. The CPU (8086K) stayed at 65C, and the GPU (2070S) at 55C. Are those good temps considering nothing is overclocked? I never ran a stress on my old one radiator setup so I don't have anything to compare to

DrDork
Dec 29, 2003
commanding officer of the Army of Dorkness

ilkhan posted:

What are the pros and cons of going (EVGA RTX3080 XC3 or founders edition RTX3080) + aftermarket waterblock (EK probably) vs an EVGA RTX 3080 Hydrocopper?

Do we know if the hydrocopper will include RGB effects and if so how they will get controlled?

Has anyone announced full coverage blocks for the 3070 yet?

Pros of going FE + waterblock is that you're gonna get the smallest footprint possible.
Pros of going XC3 + waterblock is EVGA is a super nice company to deal with RMAs for. Otherwise seems inferior to the FE in every way (larger, lower quality parts, and more expensive). But if you were early on the email notification list, you might be able to score an XC3 earlier than a FE.
Pros of going Hydrocopper is it's the lowest-effort option, since it's pre-installed.

Downside of going FE + waterblock is waiting for the waterblock to actually be sold.
Downside of going XC3 + waterblock is either you lose the backplate (the $699 edition doesn't have one), or you're paying more than for the FE.
Downside of the Hydrocopper is, as noted, potential flow issues (yet to be seen), and the fact that it right now has no release date whatsoever, so who knows when it'll actually hit the market, or at what price.

In the past, EVGA Hydrocopper cards have had RGB lighting controllable through Precision X1.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
I didn't realize the founders edition was a smaller card, that is very good info, thank you. I'm not any particular hurry so I may just wait for the hydro copper

DrDork
Dec 29, 2003
commanding officer of the Army of Dorkness

ilkhan posted:

I didn't realize the founders edition was a smaller card, that is very good info, thank you. I'm not any particular hurry so I may just wait for the hydro copper

Yeah, once you rip the HSF off it the FE PCB is only about 2/3 the length of the overall unit. Most of the AIBs have something closer to a "full length" PCB.

Getting the HSF off the FE looks to take a little more effort than the AIBs, but still seems entirely doable as long as you don't rush it when you're removing the ribbon cables.

The Electronaut
May 10, 2009

DrDork posted:

Yeah, once you rip the HSF off it the FE PCB is only about 2/3 the length of the overall unit. Most of the AIBs have something closer to a "full length" PCB.

Getting the HSF off the FE looks to take a little more effort than the AIBs, but still seems entirely doable as long as you don't rush it when you're removing the ribbon cables.

GN did a tear down of it like the day embargo lifted. It’s a well populated PCB. I wonder how waterblock support is going to shake out this round as a lot of partners used the reference PCB for 2080 (ti) for their non premium versions. It’s not to say they haven’t done PCB specific blocks like for say the FTW or Strix cards, just that from a market standpoint a whole lot of reference PCB based cards were made for that generation.

DrDork
Dec 29, 2003
commanding officer of the Army of Dorkness

The Electronaut posted:

GN did a tear down of it like the day embargo lifted. It’s a well populated PCB. I wonder how waterblock support is going to shake out this round as a lot of partners used the reference PCB for 2080 (ti) for their non premium versions. It’s not to say they haven’t done PCB specific blocks like for say the FTW or Strix cards, just that from a market standpoint a whole lot of reference PCB based cards were made for that generation.

I think the answer is they're gonna need to go the way EK has gone and offer a "this will fit a lot of cards" block and then a bunch of card-specific blocks. Even without a true "reference" design, there's still a general layout that many boards have gone with, so compatibility isn't complete trash. But, yeah, you're gonna have to pay a little more attention to what block you're buying this time.

I really want to see someone slap an AIO on one, though. It looks like the mounting holes have narrowed slightly compared to previous generations, so something like the G12 will need a new mounting bracket to fit. I'm very curious to see if the GDDR6X actually needs significant cooling, or if just sticking on some aluminum heatsinks with good airflow / a 120mm fan pointed vaguely at the area will be enough.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Gigabyte confirmed to me over chat that they're launching 3080/3090 Waterforce and might be launching a 3 slot bridge to match

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
I've decided I'm going to attempt water cooling!

After doing what feels like countless reading and watching lots of videos, I think this is what I'm going to go for:


I've got this case MTALLICGAR NEO Qube which I think will look quite good with a water cooled build.


I'm looking at doing PETG tubing and most of my equipment will be from Corsair just to make sure everything is okay, and also because I guess once you're in the Corsair RGB ecosystem it's difficult to separate from.

So far I have:


I have ordered and am waiting on delivery for:
  • Bykski RX580 Waterblock (It was pretty cheap and I can't wait to get away from the howling whine of the fans on this card - I know it's an older card by today's standards but I really don't need anything more powerful right now and probably wont for a long time).
  • Corsair XR5 360mm radiator (White)

I need to get:
  • A pump and reservoir. I'm considering this Corsair XD5 Pump and Reservoir combo (White). Will this be strong enough for my proposed layout? Any idea what the difference between this and the Gen 2 version is?
  • PETG tubing. Given the XSPC bending kit I have, I believe I can use 10mm ID and either 13mm or 14mm OD tubing, so I'm thinking this Corsair Hydro X Hardline PETG 14mm tubing will be OK (And I think, really, any tubing which is 10mm ID and 14mm OD)
  • Fittings. I guess Corsair 14mm Hardline fittings will do the job, though I'll need to determine how many, and get plugs/stoppers as well as a ball valve fitting for draining, too.

I'm going to get some red opaque/transparent coolant for this system for when it's done, so hoping it'll be a nice looking white, black and red build when it's done.

Feedback appreciated!

e; formatted listing

a dmc delorean fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Nov 8, 2020

Primus
May 14, 2007

Greater than the sum of his parts.

Cloner of the Elks posted:

I've got this case MTALLICGAR NEO Qube which I think will look quite good with a water cooled build.


This looks a lot like a knock-off O11 Dynamic. Given that you're going all in on hard tube, is there a reason you're not looking at getting the OG version instead of the knock-off?

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
Oh wow, didn't realise that! They're certainly similar but slightly different, I think: the one I have can also house an ITX mobo at the same time as an ATX should I ever want to have two computers in one case (I probably won't!).

But having said that, I already have the case, not really planning on changing that

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!
Buy a lot more PETG tubing than you think you'll need would be my #1 tip. Good luck!

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.
I'm curious why you chose Corsair as opposed to other vendors, and why hardline over soft.

But congrats on taking the step, its extremely rewarding once everything is up and running!

SPACE HOMOS
Jan 12, 2005

I just installed a EKWB FLT120 and... I don't recommend it. It looks cool but it was a huge pain in the rear end as compared to a tube reservoir.

Originally I had bought 60mm deep radiators and over time I regret it. They don't fit in many cases and its just been a headache.

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
Thanks for responses so far!

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

I'm curious why you chose Corsair as opposed to other vendors, and why hardline over soft.

But congrats on taking the step, its extremely rewarding once everything is up and running!

Good question! I wanted to go for white components and the only white 360 radiator I could find in stock happened to be Corsair - that's also when I noticed the white waterblock on discount and also that they sell a white reservoir/pump combo. I did see one other white 360 rad but that was an Alphacool Monsta and I didn't want that. I also like the iCue software for RGB (my keyboard is Corsair so I'm at least a little familiar with it).

Once I'd ordered the radiator and cpu water block, I figured may as well stick with that brand. If the pump/reservoir combo is terrible I'd be open to getting something different.

As for soft vs hard tubing... Two reasons I guess. I know soft tubing can cloud up over time, and I think hard tubing just looks nicer.

The Corsair pump... Will that be strong enough for this build? And if so, would adding another radiator cause any trouble?

SPACE HOMOS posted:


Originally I had bought 60mm deep radiators and over time I regret it. They don't fit in many cases and its just been a headache.
I'm now glad I passed on the Monsta

a dmc delorean fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Nov 8, 2020

MeruFM
Jul 27, 2010

Cloner of the Elks posted:

Good question! I wanted to go for white components and the only white 360 radiator I could find in stock happened to be Corsair - that's also when I noticed the white waterblock on discount and also that they sell a white reservoir/pump combo.

if you want a white radiator, you can go for freezemod. It seem to work well (i mean it's a radiator, this tech is not exactly new) but you have to clean it out well.

Warmachine posted:

Anyone have experience with the quality on Bykski water blocks? They're the only company that has announced a 30xx FE block, but I'm not familiar with their reputation like I am EK or Alphacool.

It works well, my GPU temp is water +1 idle and +15 at load.

Catte enjoying the heat exhaust

MeruFM fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Nov 8, 2020

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream

MeruFM posted:

if you want a white radiator, you can go for freezemod. It seem to work well (i mean it's a radiator, this tech is not exactly new) but you have to clean it out well.

I'm not really aware of that brand, but doing a search I could only find their white radiators on import from USA to UK. With postage, that turned out to be the same as getting the Corsair XR5.

Are they a Chinese brand? I get hits on AliExpress for their black radiators but couldn't see any white ones on a skim through. I tried to avoid Chinese imports after reading some reviews. Even the reviews I've read regarding Barrow have been hit and miss so I'd rather err on the side of caution. I think I'd get another rad at some point but unsure if mixing is a good idea (metal types aside)?



Also!
I saw this clip today :stonk:

MeruFM
Jul 27, 2010
Yeah they're chinese, and basically half the price of name brand stuff.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001153796093.html

I haven't really had issues with chinese stuff, half my loop is made of it. I guess I have more confidence because none of it is high tech. Gaskets, radiators, piping are not new technologies.

I do use an air pressure loop tester to make sure there's no leaks though. My loop first runs through the 27mm freezemod and then an alphacool 45mm. Been running for a month, seems fine.

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
That's a good point.

With that in mind, I just ordered:
  • A bunch of Barrow fittings - 1x Ball valve, 2x 90 degree fittings, 2x 45 degree fittings, 6x standard fittings
  • The Corsair Hydro X Series, XD5 RGB Pump/Reservoir Combo
  • 1 litre Mayhems X1 premixed red coolant
  • 1 litre Mayhems distilled water for pre-flushing the rad (this was also cheaper than any other distilled water I could find)
  • 2x 500mm 10mm-ID, 14mm-OD PETG tubing. Wouldn't be surprised if I'll end up needing a bit more but this will do for now
Going to change my layout slightly from parallel to serial, so I think I have all the bits I need coming now. Will be interesting to see how this pans out.

And drat, I knew water cooling wasn't cheap but this is more than I expected.
Oh well, in for a penny, in for a pound!

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Cloner of the Elks posted:

That's a good point.

With that in mind, I just ordered:
  • A bunch of Barrow fittings - 1x Ball valve, 2x 90 degree fittings, 2x 45 degree fittings, 6x standard fittings
  • The Corsair Hydro X Series, XD5 RGB Pump/Reservoir Combo
  • 1 litre Mayhems X1 premixed red coolant
  • 1 litre Mayhems distilled water for pre-flushing the rad (this was also cheaper than any other distilled water I could find)
  • 2x 500mm 10mm-ID, 14mm-OD PETG tubing. Wouldn't be surprised if I'll end up needing a bit more but this will do for now
Going to change my layout slightly from parallel to serial, so I think I have all the bits I need coming now. Will be interesting to see how this pans out.

And drat, I knew water cooling wasn't cheap but this is more than I expected.
Oh well, in for a penny, in for a pound!

I'm looking at $400 for the GPU side of my loop alone. :retrogames:

edit: Hold on, I just processed the "mayhems distilled water" line. Is this just clear coolant with a biocide in it? Or worse, marked up distilled water? For preflushing (getting any manufacturing gunk out of the loop) just use a regular rear end jug of distilled water from the grocery store. If they don't sell jugs, I think Aquafinia is the most-distilled of the bottled water brands (don't have a source on this off hand, just remember reading it when I was looking into coolants for the first time). Bonus point that you can drink what you don't use. Don't waste expensive stuff on flushing it down the drain.

Warmachine fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Nov 10, 2020

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream

Warmachine posted:

I'm looking at $400 for the GPU side of my loop alone. :retrogames:

edit: Hold on, I just processed the "mayhems distilled water" line. Is this just clear coolant with a biocide in it? Or worse, marked up distilled water? For preflushing (getting any manufacturing gunk out of the loop) just use a regular rear end jug of distilled water from the grocery store. If they don't sell jugs, I think Aquafinia is the most-distilled of the bottled water brands (don't have a source on this off hand, just remember reading it when I was looking into coolants for the first time). Bonus point that you can drink what you don't use. Don't waste expensive stuff on flushing it down the drain.

Ok, this will sound utterly stupid but hear me out!

Distilled water isn't as commonly available in UK as you might think. You can get it, but the price is utterly stupid when you finally do find it. Most of the 'closest' stuff you an find is Deionized water which from what I've read is not what should be used.

Distilled water on Amazon is, at the cheapest I can find with reasonable postage times, £7.90. That's 1.5 litres.

Mayhems distilled water with cleaning additives on Overclockers which is £2.50. that's 1 liter.

Quite why the price of evaporated water is so high, I have no idea. I'd make it myself if I had the time and desire to burn gas (though thinking about it, utilities would probably end up costing me more than £2.50 for less yield.

I spent more time looking for this goddamn water than I'll wilfully admit :haw:

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

Cloner of the Elks posted:

Ok, this will sound utterly stupid but hear me out!

Distilled water isn't as commonly available in UK as you might think. You can get it, but the price is utterly stupid when you finally do find it. Most of the 'closest' stuff you an find is Deionized water which from what I've read is not what should be used.

Distilled water on Amazon is, at the cheapest I can find with reasonable postage times, £7.90. That's 1.5 litres.

Mayhems distilled water with cleaning additives on Overclockers which is £2.50. that's 1 liter.

Quite why the price of evaporated water is so high, I have no idea. I'd make it myself if I had the time and desire to burn gas (though thinking about it, utilities would probably end up costing me more than £2.50 for less yield.

I spent more time looking for this goddamn water than I'll wilfully admit :haw:

Wow, that's insane. When I did my loop I paid like, a dollar for a gallon

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Cloner of the Elks posted:

Ok, this will sound utterly stupid but hear me out!

Distilled water isn't as commonly available in UK as you might think. You can get it, but the price is utterly stupid when you finally do find it. Most of the 'closest' stuff you an find is Deionized water which from what I've read is not what should be used.

Distilled water on Amazon is, at the cheapest I can find with reasonable postage times, £7.90. That's 1.5 litres.

Mayhems distilled water with cleaning additives on Overclockers which is £2.50. that's 1 liter.

Quite why the price of evaporated water is so high, I have no idea. I'd make it myself if I had the time and desire to burn gas (though thinking about it, utilities would probably end up costing me more than £2.50 for less yield.

I spent more time looking for this goddamn water than I'll wilfully admit :haw:

:wtc:

Anyway, EK just put out a Peltier. Just in case you want to bump your 300W Intel CPU up to 500W.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantumx-delta-tec

Riflen
Mar 13, 2009

"Cheating bitch"
Bleak Gremlin

Cloner of the Elks posted:

...
Distilled water isn't as commonly available in UK as you might think. You can get it, but the price is utterly stupid when you finally do find it. Most of the 'closest' stuff you an find is Deionized water which from what I've read is not what should be used.
...

Nah, deionized water is absolutely fine for a loop. I've used it for years with no problems. Soft tubing with nickel-plated brass and copper parts and a touch of biocide.

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!

Riflen posted:

Nah, deionized water is absolutely fine for a loop. I've used it for years with no problems. Soft tubing with nickel-plated brass and copper parts and a touch of biocide.

:same: DI is absolutely fine and cheap as piss at Halfords.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Deionised is fine, demineralised is not. Which is notable because in Australia loving everywhere wants to sell you demineralised and nothing else

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!

BurritoJustice posted:

Deionised is fine, demineralised is not. Which is notable because in Australia loving everywhere wants to sell you demineralised and nothing else

Demineralised is the same as deionised isn't it?

Riflen
Mar 13, 2009

"Cheating bitch"
Bleak Gremlin

Theophany posted:

Demineralised is the same as deionised isn't it?

Wikipedia posted:

Demineralization is often a term used interchangeably with deionization. Demineralization is essentially removing all the minerals that can be found in natural water. This process is usually done when the water will be used for chemical processes and the minerals present may interfere with the other chemicals. All chemistic and beauty products have to be made with demineralized water for this reason. With the demineralization process, the water is "softened" replacing the undesired minerals with different salts. Demineralized water has a higher conductivity than deionized water.

Truga
May 4, 2014
Lipstick Apathy
it's absolutely insane to me that getting distilled water would be hard. if push comes to shove you can make some at home even

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a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
So all this stuff I read about deionised water being bad because it causes corrosion is just garbage?

It was very confusing:
Some saying that distilled water should be the only type used
Some saying deionised is fine
Some saying that distilled is better because it contains the goddamn nutrients that a water cooling system needs (??)
Some claiming that deionised water is so bad it'll encourage growth and steal every possible ion it can find because it's so deprived that it'll literally dissolve your components (lol). Some obscure forum poster said it's a fine way to turn your radiator into a sprinkler urghhhh

So I thought gently caress it and picked up a litre of Mayhems for £2.50. I mean, it's only for a pre-flush, I have premixed stuff for the actual coolant when it comes to filling

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