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Agreed. Looks fine. Check on it periodically for cracks, but I wouldn't worry. EDIT: VVV Oh yeah good eye. Keep an eye on that. eSporks fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 19:20
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The paint has crazed right in front of the weld: I’d keep a close eye on that to see if the metal cracks over time.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:27
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  Installed new hanger
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Sep 14, 2020 02:44
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 came down kinda hard on my saddle and the rigid plastic spine or whatever you want to call it snapped. I don't think this is something that can be fixed and it's about four years old now so well out of warranty.
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Sep 14, 2020 14:06
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Generally referred to as the shell of the saddle.
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Sep 14, 2020 14:59
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TobinHatesYou posted:Generally referred to as the shell of the saddle. Ah thanks. I'm terrible at terminology. I saw somewhere that strain from sitting too far up on the seat can lead to weakening it, but I had that thing pretty dialed in and I thought it was a pretty nice seat. I was looking to replace it with the brooks leather seat. Is that thing pretty sturdy? Edit: I notice now on their website that they got a ton of different varieties so I'll need to see what kind of dimensions I want Mauser fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 20:54
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ElMaligno posted:
sir please clean your drivetrain. sir. SIR
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Sep 14, 2020 22:02
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DELETE CASCADE posted:sir please clean your drivetrain. sir. SIR Its cleaner than the last time i posted it
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Sep 14, 2020 22:10
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Mauser posted:Ah thanks. I'm terrible at terminology. I saw somewhere that strain from sitting too far up on the seat can lead to weakening it, but I had that thing pretty dialed in and I thought it was a pretty nice seat. I was looking to replace it with the brooks leather seat. Is that thing pretty sturdy? They weigh a ton, if that’s a factor.
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Sep 14, 2020 23:21
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Mauser posted:Ah thanks. I'm terrible at terminology. I saw somewhere that strain from sitting too far up on the seat can lead to weakening it, but I had that thing pretty dialed in and I thought it was a pretty nice seat. I was looking to replace it with the brooks leather seat. Is that thing pretty sturdy? They're also all one piece for the upper, no shell to crack. They're good, I've known some big dudes to use them. I use a Cambium one because you don't have to worry about getting it wet.
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Sep 14, 2020 23:24
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That's good to know for both. Based on the difference in weight it looks like it would be an additional half pound compared to the previous (rip) which was a specialized henge comp I got at a going out of business sale for $60. I might try to find something of similar firmness rating on their site since shops around here seem to be out of everything that I could try out and I would just promise to be more gentle to it  edit: all right I ordered a specialized bridge comp as it looks pretty similar to what I had Mauser fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Sep 15, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 23:45
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kimbo305 posted:The paint has crazed right in front of the weld: Showed the damage to two shops that I've used in the past, consensus is definitely still safe to ride, more likely than not fine for the life of the bike. My main guy brought up the idea of slapping a bit of protection onto the frame. I wish I'd thought of that earlier. On one hand, where I've been riding lately, there's a very good chance that I'm going to take more hits in this general location and it would be nice to help prevent further damage. On the other hand, I'm a little hesitant to cover the existing damage in something that prevents me from inspecting it. There are clear options, but they're thin enough that I'm not sure it would make much difference to an impact like this one. Thoughts?
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Sep 15, 2020 16:58
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TLDR: My gear shift/chain seems to click, as if it were shifting gears, automatically at regular intervals, even the gears don't actually shift. So glad I found this and the new commuting thread. I bought my bike in June with Corona bucks and have used it since to avoid Paris's clogged public transportation, and I'll likely never go back, at least as far as work is concerned (I don't like leaving my bike parked for long in Paris, I don't know a single person here who hasn't had a bike stolen so it doesn't seem worth it, it's just a from work to home bike). The bike's pretty new and I only had to replace the brakes once after a 40 km that coincided with me going down a loving steep hill some 2km in pouring rain that just wore the brake pads down to nearly nothing. My commute is 20 km daily, 100 kms weekly, though I've only done it for one week. Obviously, I knew the path going forward, I had done it previously since it's a nice bike ride, but the first day I need to actually commute to work I hit a bump, a bump I've hit many times as it's inevitable (road to bike path/sidewalk), and my chain gets dis-lodged. Fine whatever. I unscrew the chainguard and then slot the chain back on. Since then I've had some trouble getting the bike back into fifth gear, but usually changing it back to 4 or 6 and then back to 5 would solve that problem. Until yesterday, a week after the initial incident. Yesterday, my bike began clicking, as if I was changing gear, automatically, but not actually changing gear. It does this every 4 or 5 pedal, it's very rhythmic. I brought to my bike shop and took the bus to work today which was just the worst. I picked it up this evening, I even watched the guy fiddle around with the derailleur and as he pedals with his hand it seems to work fine. I take it back and the same thing is happening! I don't know if it's because of the added weight of a rider, the friction with the road, but whatever it is, the bike will click as if a gear is being changed at regular intervals. The mechanic, knowing I wanted to use it for commuting came to the conclusion that it should be safe to ride to work, which I'm fairly confident it will be, it'll just be annoying, and said if it keeps up I can bring it in next Tuesday morning, which I have off, to change the chain. --- I personally have trouble thinking the chain is the issue since the bike is still rather new, and even if I'm putting it through its paces now, I haven't couldn't have possible ridden more than 300 km with it since having bought it. I figure the derailleur needs to be re-aligned and I watched the video in the OP on how to do it. It doesn't seem that complicated? I feel I can figure that out this weekend. That said, where could I buy a thing to hold my bike in the air while I pedal by hand? Or is it possible that something else is wrong?
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Sep 15, 2020 17:40
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You know what's great? Finding a broken spoke while lubing your chain up. 
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Sep 15, 2020 18:33
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iospace posted:You know what's great? Finding a broken spoke while lubing your chain up. Name a single better time to find one.
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Sep 15, 2020 18:40
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After you sell it, cash in hand as the buyer is walking away with it.
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Sep 15, 2020 19:18
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Ive bought a dumb Fuji Marlboro folder for dirt cheap and I’m going to use it for dicking around, and taking with me locally. I’ve stripped everything off it because it came with department store tier garbage parts, while the frame is reasonably decent. It came with no-name canti brakes, friction FD, 5 speed Shimano RD, an insanely heavy one piece 3x crank (1757g with pedals), a 150mm 1” QR stem, and a 26.4 seat post that weighs 850g. I’ve yanked the 3x crank and BB, and I’m planning to replace it with a 1x 38T crank. The current BB is square taper, 68x127.5. I’m pretty sure it’s the original BB because it is extra nasty and devoid of any branding or markings. I have a bottom bracket question now - with the change to a 1x crank, is there a designated amount of spindle length I should look to go down, or is it just a case of buying a few different lengths and seeing which one fits best? The 127.5 spindle length is definitely already on the long side even with a 3x. http://www.foldingcyclist.com/Fuji-Marlboro-folding-bike.html
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Sep 15, 2020 19:33
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Ive bought a dumb Fuji Marlboro folder for dirt cheap and I’m going to use it for dicking around, and taking with me locally. I’ve stripped everything off it because it came with department store tier garbage parts, while the frame is reasonably decent. It came with no-name canti brakes, friction FD, 5 speed Shimano RD, an insanely heavy one piece 3x crank (1757g with pedals), a 150mm 1” QR stem, and a 26.4 seat post that weighs 850g. I assume that’s a BSA BB shell on that frame? I’ve done this on a couple of BSA bikes now, the cheapest/easiest way I’ve found for 1x is to get whatever 110bcd crank will fit BSA with the appropriate BB and get an appropriate chainring, SRAM and FSA make real nice narrow-wide 1x chain rings that account for the change in chain line going to 1x on a 2x crank. There are tons of options (megaexo, bb386, hollowtech, GXP, etc) more or less the only relatively common modern BB standard that won’t fit BSA is BB30.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:13
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e.pilot posted:I assume that’s a BSA BB shell on that frame? I’ve done this on a couple of BSA bikes now, the cheapest/easiest way I’ve found for 1x is to get whatever 110bcd crank will fit BSA with the appropriate BB and get an appropriate chainring, SRAM and FSA make real nice narrow-wide 1x chain rings that account for the change in chain line going to 1x on a 2x crank. There are tons of options (megaexo, bb386, hollowtech, GXP, etc) more or less the only relatively common modern BB standard that won’t fit BSA is BB30. Yeah, BSA. I’ve found a square taper crank which has removable chainrings and is supposedly narrow/wide although the pictures don’t seem to show that. I was planning on using another square taper bb because I have the tools for it and I’m looking to do this on the cheap, mostly with parts I have on hand. 1x9 friction shift 26er with 2” slicks 
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Sep 15, 2020 20:45
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Yeah, BSA. I’ve found a square taper crank which has removable chainrings and is supposedly narrow/wide although the pictures don’t seem to show that. I was planning on using another square taper bb because I have the tools for it and I’m looking to do this on the cheap, mostly with parts I have on hand. oh in that case just get whatever 2x 110bcd square taper crank and go nuts https://www.backcountry.com/sram-force-cx1-x-sync-11-speed-110bcd-chain-ring
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Sep 15, 2020 20:52
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e.pilot posted:oh in that case just get whatever 2x 110bcd square taper crank and go nuts I’ll post pics of this monstrosity when I’m done with it. It’s no dick wood, but it does fold!
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Sep 15, 2020 20:53
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afflictionwisp posted:My main guy brought up the idea of slapping a bit of protection onto the frame.
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Sep 15, 2020 21:13
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that is polyurethane, not carbon.
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Sep 15, 2020 21:58
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I’ll post pics of this monstrosity when I’m done with it. It’s no dick wood, but it does fold! Just post as you go, not like we have tons of traffic.
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Sep 16, 2020 01:51
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100YrsofAttitude posted:TLDR: My gear shift/chain seems to click, as if it were shifting gears, automatically at regular intervals, even the gears don't actually shift. You can figure it out this weekend. A bike repair stand will be your best friend while doing this or about a zillion other things on your bike. The bad news is they tend to be fairly expensive, but maybe you'll get lucky like me and your local Aldi will decide to sell bike repair stands for $40. Otherwise you'll have to rig something up that holds your rear wheel (at least) off the ground and allows you to pedal by hand. Or have a very patient friend willing to stand there and hold your bike for you. EDIT: n/m found the commuting thread. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Sep 16, 2020 |
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Sep 16, 2020 03:10
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100YrsofAttitude posted:TLDR: My gear shift/chain seems to click, as if it were shifting gears, automatically at regular intervals, even the gears don't actually shift.
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Sep 16, 2020 11:22
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Yeah, I’m in France. Thanks for the suggestions. If I can’t get the stand I’ll have my partner help me out. Found another shop close to work so I’ll check them out on Friday but I’m glad this issue isn’t insurmountable because I was furious this morning as I biked to work as it clacked non stop and switched gears on its own. Hopefully using it in this condition won’t do it much harm because I’m loathe to take the bus.
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Sep 16, 2020 13:23
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Name a single better time to find one. Immediately after it breaks
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Sep 16, 2020 14:11
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I posted about smashing my bike off the roof rack of my car a while ago: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3933899&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=38#post507880717 I finally took my rear wheel off and got a closer look at the damage on the inside of the stay joint by the derailleur hanger on my cutthroat, and here it is:  My best guess is that the chain jumped off the smallest cog when the bike hit the ground, and that impact also moved the pedals suddenly, causing the chain to grind against the inside of the stay joint briefly. The damage seems to be mostly paint, looks like a small scratch to the carbon, so I'm going to try not to fret too much about it while riding and just keep an eye on it for cracking. I guess I got lucky given how bad the damage could have been. a foolish pianist fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Sep 16, 2020 |
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Sep 16, 2020 18:41
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Looks like your chain is rubbing as well. Check to make sure you don't have an unnecessary spacer behind the cassette.
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Sep 16, 2020 18:47
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On the ride home I got used to the idiosyncracies of this bad derailleur situation. The fifth gear (of six) is hosed and won't ever stay in place, clanks, or will shift automatically to six. Sixth works-ish, but more often that not is loud and also prone to switching by itself either into itself or back down to five. Four is stable unless I'm down-shifting from fifth which makes it shift into itself. The lower 3 seem to work fine though. So if I were to fiddle around with the derailleur screws like shown in one of the videos in the OP, would I still have to go back and adjust the 3 lower ones or can I assume they'll make it through untouched?
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Sep 16, 2020 18:53
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a foolish pianist posted:I posted about smashing my bike off the roof rack of my car a while ago: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3933899&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=38#post507880717 I think that's fine.
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Sep 16, 2020 19:04
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eSporks posted:Looks like your chain is rubbing as well. Check to make sure you don't have an unnecessary spacer behind the cassette. Nah, all that damage is from the fall from the top of the car. The chain isn't rubbing on the frame during normal operation. The rear wheel is also pretty out of true, and there's some friction noise when the wheel rotates but the cassette stays still.
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Sep 16, 2020 19:44
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100YrsofAttitude posted:On the ride home I got used to the idiosyncracies of this bad derailleur situation. The fifth gear (of six) is hosed and won't ever stay in place, clanks, or will shift automatically to six. Sixth works-ish, but more often that not is loud and also prone to switching by itself either into itself or back down to five. Four is stable unless I'm down-shifting from fifth which makes it shift into itself. The lower 3 seem to work fine though. So if I were to fiddle around with the derailleur screws like shown in one of the videos in the OP, would I still have to go back and adjust the 3 lower ones or can I assume they'll make it through untouched? How they work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQmmEvt0rxs How to unfuck it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY
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Sep 17, 2020 01:18
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100YrsofAttitude posted:On the ride home I got used to the idiosyncracies of this bad derailleur situation. The fifth gear (of six) is hosed and won't ever stay in place, clanks, or will shift automatically to six. Sixth works-ish, but more often that not is loud and also prone to switching by itself either into itself or back down to five. Four is stable unless I'm down-shifting from fifth which makes it shift into itself. The lower 3 seem to work fine though. So if I were to fiddle around with the derailleur screws like shown in one of the videos in the OP, would I still have to go back and adjust the 3 lower ones or can I assume they'll make it through untouched? I am a complete noob at this, so take everything I say as applicable probably only to me. I don't know about the adjustment screws. But based on my experience, try replacing the shifter cables. My bought-from-the-dump-recycling-shop frankenbike wasn't really shifting at all. I swapped out the cables for new ones, and presto! it works! It's not perfect - I need to fine tune it in a few ways - but "functions" is way better than "does not function". The videos I watched - Park Tools, some British Bicycles-for-Everyone channel - all started with the claim that no matter what, any problem with shifting is probably going to get better or be solved by changing the cables. Again, I know really nothing, but your issue sounds very much like (to me) something that could be caused by a shifter cable that's stretched, corroded, or otherwise damaged and not smoothly pulling / releasing as the shifter is moved. When I changed mine, cutting the outer cables was the only problem, my generic, cheap pliers with wire-cutters close to the hinge weren't really appropriate for the braided metal, I had to work at it and my cuts are pretty messy. But I got it done, and it cost very little money (I got all 4 cable sets for brakes and shifters, plus a surplus of cable ends, for $40 AUD) and really not much time or effort.
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Sep 17, 2020 01:26
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Bike shop fixed my clicking noise while pedaling. They tightened up something down there and said that I needed a new bottom bracket maybe next season when stocks come back in. The only part they had available to order would've been $300+ so they reasoned correctly that I would not be interested in that for my toughroad. Not knowing anything about the bottom bracket, is there anything I should look out for when replacing it or just go with whatever they had proposed in the ~$30 part range?
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Sep 17, 2020 02:44
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If it is square taper, octalink, or 24mm, there is no reason to buy anything better than a shimano sealed bearing BB, which should be like $30.
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Sep 17, 2020 02:48
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nm posted:If it is square taper, octalink, or 24mm, there is no reason to buy anything better than a shimano sealed bearing BB, which should be like $30. Color coordination of a largely obscured component yo.
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Sep 17, 2020 08:47
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Cigarette Bike update: I’ve done a little work. I started by stripping it down to the frame. The crank was pretty rough to get off. The BB unthreaded by hand.  I’ve cleaned as I went and took off some of the scuffs. Sadly, some of the scratches are through the paint, and the decals have a couple nicks. It’a a 10 footer. So far: - Replaced what I’m sure is the original square taper BB. What used to account for grease was rock hard. - Replaced the cpi 3x crank with a 38T crank. With pedals it weighed nearly 4 pounds. I knocked off 10mm from the BB spindle length and I probably could have gone a little more for a better chainline, but it looks fine. - Threw on some Kenda 2.0 tires on some 26” MTB rims I had sitting around. The previous wheels were boat anchors, and a freewheel in the back. - New Origin8 v-brakes because I don’t want to mess with cantis. - Installed brake levers, shifter, and grips on the bars, which I mocked up for now. The 9 speed friction shifter is the only bit I’m a little concerned about as it’s pretty cheap and rather ugly. Still to do: - Install new stem when it gets here. I wasn’t able to find a 1” QR stem and I didn’t want to mess with a 1” to 1 1/8” adapter, and then get a 1 1/8” folding stem, so I’ll just take the front wheel off when I need to fold it up all the way. - Cut housing and cables to something non-ludicrous and get the brakes set up right. - Install RD hanger. This bike doesn’t have a direct mount, so I’ve found a Sunrace hanger that uses the axle and then provides a direct mount location. I’ll be mounting a Sora RD I have sitting around. - Replace seatpost and saddle. This seatpost is absurdly heavy, and is the outdated 26.4 pillar style. Nice to haves: - Install a better QR lever on the back. - Find another 1” QR stem if it exists. - Throw on an indexed shifter if this friction one sucks.  
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Sep 17, 2020 23:51
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 08:06 |
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 Did you post about this bike in the old thread? It is fascinating.
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Sep 18, 2020 01:31
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