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I have a 1,700 square foot condo in Chicago which was built in the 1880s and rehabbed in the 1990s so the walls are a mixture of plaster and metal I have Silver IP gigabit service (Cat 6 to WLAN). I have a static IP (via DHCP MAC rez). I'll probably rock a k8s cluster in my house and use Metal LB (DHCP or BGP? Don't much care.) to route traffic into pods. My Archer C7 (v2) is ancient and seems to need to be restarted every week or so and sucks for a variety of other reasons. I need speed and my office can't be wired so I'll probably have a mesh extender in there or something. The router will need to have at least 4 LAN ports I'd love to spend less than $1k - ideally less than $500. The equipment can't be gently caress-ugly or loud b/c it's going to live inside an entertainment center in my living room. I'm a POWARUSAR I'm sure MY_WIFE will boot us to oak park or some other loving suburb at some point so something that can service a larger place via extenders would be ideal what am I buying? Gimme that Goon Approved™ Hardware pls page weed+100 snypa Junkiebev fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 04:18
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Realized the house I'm buying doesn't actually have any coax connections in it. My only option for speeds higher than 50/50 is Xfinity. Am I correct in assuming the most they'll do is tack the cable to the exterior of the house and drill a hole straight through to the interior? Guessing I'll either need to hire an electrician or figure out how to fish wires myself if I want it halfway decent....
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Sep 17, 2020 17:20
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Tremors posted:Realized the house I'm buying doesn't actually have any coax connections in it. My only option for speeds higher than 50/50 is Xfinity. Am I correct in assuming the most they'll do is tack the cable to the exterior of the house and drill a hole straight through to the interior? Guessing I'll either need to hire an electrician or figure out how to fish wires myself if I want it halfway decent.... Yep. If it's an easy run like an unfinished basement sometimes they'll help but even inside the best you'll get is them willing to drill a hole and poke a cable through.
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Sep 17, 2020 17:23
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Tremors posted:Guessing I'll either need to hire an electrician or figure out how to fish wires myself if I want it halfway decent.... Definitely learn how to run your own wiring, though of course ymmv depending on your house construction/age. The tools you need aren’t terribly expensive, the most important one imo is a set of fiberglass fish rods. The good news since you have a clean slate is that you get to do everything from scratch the right way. Think about what you really want in each room of your house, be it coax, Ethernet, or whatever and pull it all back to a central location.
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Sep 17, 2020 17:50
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My top tip about co-ax is to use compression connectors - screw on and crimp on are pretty bad, and as frequencies get higher you need the better quality connection from a compression connector. It does become a lot more important to match the cable size up to the connectors, but it's not impossible and buying both from the same place is mostly all that is required.
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Sep 17, 2020 18:13
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Thanks Ants posted:It does become a lot more important to match the cable size up to the connectors, but it's not impossible and buying both from the same place is mostly all that is required. ....this explains so much for me for the one time I borrowed a coworkers coax compression tool. It worked but looked like poo poo. For this house I just bought preterminated cables at approximately the right length. Who cares if there’s an excess service loop in the attic? devmd01 fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 18:15
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I was pulling new coax and Cat6 through the gap left between the plastered-over plastic capping and the brick wall ( ) using the old crap cable as the draw wire. It was actually quite successful after covering everything in that yellow lube stuff to make it pull in easier. Before I replaced the cable the interference picked up on the run from the antenna to the TV was enough to knock out the channels on the higher frequency multiplexes.
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Sep 17, 2020 18:37
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I need suggestions on adding WIFI to my desktop PC. USB 3.0, or a PCI-E card, which one would I want to get, and which brand/model? I have currently a Realtek 8812BU Wireless LAN 802.11ac USB NIC and it is no longer working, so it needs to be replaced.
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Sep 17, 2020 20:33
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Is there any good reason to have 2.4 and 5ghz networks on the same SSID? I'm in an area with a very congested 2.4GHz band, but still have a handful of 2.4GHz only devices kicking around. The problem that I have when 2.4 and 5ghz are on the same SSID is that devices prefer to connect to the stronger, slower, and unusably congested 2.4GHz over the perfectly reasonable signal strength (-60dB) 5ghz AC network, so I just split them into different SSIDs.
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Sep 17, 2020 20:34
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I said come in! posted:I need suggestions on adding WIFI to my desktop PC. USB 3.0, or a PCI-E card, which one would I want to get, and which brand/model? I have currently a Realtek 8812BU Wireless LAN 802.11ac USB NIC and it is no longer working, so it needs to be replaced. If you don't care about the chipset, the most important thing is to get an extension on the antennas, so the antennas aren't blocked by your case, and the antennas can be angled however you please. 
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Sep 17, 2020 21:49
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SwissArmyDruid posted:If you don't care about the chipset, the most important thing is to get an extension on the antennas, so the antennas aren't blocked by your case, and the antennas can be angled however you please. This is something I would not have known, thank you! Are they all pretty much the same? So just go with whatever is cheapest? Any specific features I should look for? This is one area where I am totally in the dark, and want to make sure i'm getting something that is a good build quality and wont fail.
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Sep 17, 2020 21:52
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I'm looking to run about 30 feet of Ethernet in the walls to connect my router to where my office will be. I'm the only one in the house with a penchant for hardwire so I think this is the only one well need. Its also the one I have the best access to atm. I've got cable (upping to 1gb soon) so I'm thinking just cat6 is ok over that distance to give 1gb and up to 10gb for some future proofing. My thinking is the modem and router are in solid locations atm - coax access is ideal and the router seems to get Wi-Fi to everywhere in the house where it is. My plan is to use an existing 50ft cat6 cable I have and get two of those F/F wall plates. I'd have an extra 20 ft of cable sitting there, not sure how bad that is. I guess I'm just looking for more experienced eyes to tell me if anything here seems off.
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Sep 18, 2020 12:53
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Jenkl posted:I'm looking to run about 30 feet of Ethernet in the walls to connect my router to where my office will be. I'm the only one in the house with a penchant for hardwire so I think this is the only one well need. Its also the one I have the best access to atm. That should be fine as long as you can snake it through. Ethernet is good for 300' or so. Coiling up the extra in the walls shouldn't hurt anything.
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Sep 18, 2020 13:29
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Awesome, thanks!
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Sep 18, 2020 14:01
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If I want to setup a ubiquiti network, could I just buy the stuff in this video and follow it? Any substitutions or stuff to disregard? https://youtu.be/f_-iuY_xxFY I have a 2880sq ft rambler so I was thinking two APs should work. I'll have about 8 hardwired devices. That I'm going to get cables run for.
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Sep 18, 2020 14:53
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KingKapalone posted:If I want to setup a ubiquiti network, could I just buy the stuff in this video and follow it? Any substitutions or stuff to disregard? I 100% recommend against getting a USG at this point in time and a cloud key is a waste of money for a home network. The nanohd is fine. the switch is a little pricey but works if you want to be on the Unifi platform and need 4 poe ports. Also, two of those ports are going to be used up on the switch, one for the connection to the USG and one poe for the cloud key, so if you have 8 devices, you'll need a second switch. Cyks fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 18, 2020 |
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Sep 18, 2020 18:08
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I have a UDM and a UniFi AP-AC-LR. There's no LAN cable to the AP as its just plugged into the wall via PoE injector and acts as WiFi bridge, more or less. Today, for some reason, it disconnected and I could not get it back. So I factory reset it and set it up again. However now when I unplug it from LAN, it disconnects again. I have the Mesh settings enabled on the AP and in the UDM settings as well. I know this model AP is 4 or 5 years old so I was thinking maybe its just broken for good? Not sure what else to check really EDIT: I'm not a patient person which is what you need I guess for them to sync up. It works now Bonzo fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Sep 18, 2020 |
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Sep 18, 2020 18:38
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Cyks posted:I 100% recommend against getting a USG at this point in time and a cloud key is a waste of money for a home network. Have a different bundle of products to recommend for the setup then?
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Sep 18, 2020 18:54
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You don’t necessarily have to buy a POE switch if all you have are two APs. If you buy the UAP-AC-Pro individually, they come with POE injectors. I just run the controller software on a small VM on the VMware host that also runs my pfSense install.
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Sep 18, 2020 19:45
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Also, if anyone uses HomeAssistant running under HassIO (or HassOS... whatever they are calling it these days), the Unifi Controller is available as an addon. It tends to lag behind a week or so on updates.. but with Ubiquiti that is a good thing.
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Sep 18, 2020 20:04
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KingKapalone posted:Have a different bundle of products to recommend for the setup then? devmd01 posted:You don’t necessarily have to buy a POE switch if all you have are two APs. If you buy the UAP-AC-Pro individually, they come with POE injectors. Pretty much this. Edgerouter X, USW-Flex-Mini and a single AC-Pro at $240 leaves you with 7 useable switch ports for other devices Add an extra flex mini if you need additional ports (at $30 they are pretty good).
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Sep 18, 2020 20:36
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Amazon might be launching a WI-FI 6 version of the Eero Pro soon: https://www.theverge.com/2020/9/14/21435872/amazon-eero-wi-fi-6-router-gateway-extender
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Sep 18, 2020 21:18
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isn't wifi-6 pretty bad
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Sep 18, 2020 21:31
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Cyks posted:I 100% recommend against getting a USG at this point in time and a cloud key is a waste of money for a home network. What is wrong with the USG? I have never heard any recent complaints about the USG3/USG4-PRO - just the newer UDMs. I'm still happily using a USG (albeit a 4-PRO) with absolutely zero complaints. Sure they have throughput issues if you are looking for IDS/IPS, but those are mostly worthless anyways.
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Sep 18, 2020 23:12
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Azhais posted:isn't wifi-6 pretty bad WiFi 6 is very, very good once all devices support it. OFDMA is the biggest addition to the WiFi standard in quite some time and it's a killer improvement for dense environments with lots of low bandwidth or streaming devices. It's just going to be years before all the lovely IOT devices support it, so not worth blowing hundreds of bucks on now.
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Sep 19, 2020 03:48
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I recently updated my router to a WiFi 6 router and bought a WiFi 6 card for my PC and it is a massive improvement.
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Sep 19, 2020 03:56
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Tremors posted:Realized the house I'm buying doesn't actually have any coax connections in it. My only option for speeds higher than 50/50 is Xfinity. Am I correct in assuming the most they'll do is tack the cable to the exterior of the house and drill a hole straight through to the interior? Guessing I'll either need to hire an electrician or figure out how to fish wires myself if I want it halfway decent.... Follow up: we realized that there is already an xfinity line run to the house, it just doesn't enter:  Having never done this before, how do I actually go about punching it through to my basement with the other connections? I'm assuming it can't hitch alongside the electrical in that already existing conduit. Once it's in the utility room down there I can go about getting runs done through walls and whatnot.
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Sep 19, 2020 17:25
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Tremors posted:Follow up: we realized that there is already an xfinity line run to the house, it just doesn't enter: That entire run looks very questionable. Has Comcast confirmed that they have a run and that's what it looks like?
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Sep 19, 2020 17:31
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Buff Hardback posted:That entire run looks very questionable. Has Comcast confirmed that they have a run and that's what it looks like? The tech will be out in a bit but the box says xfinity on the flipped up lid.
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Sep 19, 2020 17:36
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Tremors posted:The tech will be out in a bit but the box says xfinity on the flipped up lid. right, but where does that dangly cable go, why is the end cut, etc
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Sep 19, 2020 17:39
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Alright gently caress it gonna just get different equipment because I'm tired to trying to troubleshoot this. I've got Xfinity, 600 down. I live in a fairly small two bedroom apartment. I'm looking at the ARRIS SURFboard SBG8300, which would give some wiggle room if I wanted to upgrade speeds to gig down. Not ideal that it's a router / modem combo, so I'm open to suggestions.
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Sep 19, 2020 17:58
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Who installed that AC and just doesn't believe in supporting any of the power of refrigerant lines
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Sep 19, 2020 18:14
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Tuxedo Gin posted:I recently updated my router to a WiFi 6 router and bought a WiFi 6 card for my PC and it is a massive improvement. Any brand recommendations?
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Sep 19, 2020 18:22
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Consider this very anecdotal but the TP Link C7 was the recommended budget router for a while, and their AX10 wifi6 router can be had for pretty cheap. I'd check out that if price conscious. I actually had it here a couple weeks ago but then I decided I was going to go all ubiquiti so I sent it back, before deciding not to bother to upgrade at all atm because I live in a small 950 sq' house and everything works, and we only have 100mbps service anyway.
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Sep 19, 2020 19:28
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Buff Hardback posted:right, but where does that dangly cable go, why is the end cut, etc We're assuming they removed the coax during the reno for who knows what reason. The line was indeed a buried connection to the comcast pedestal by the road, it just so happened to have been cut underground somewhere when they removed the septic tank to connect it to city sewer. 
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Sep 19, 2020 20:47
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Tremors posted:We're assuming they removed the coax during the reno for who knows what reason. The line was indeed a buried connection to the comcast pedestal by the road, it just so happened to have been cut underground somewhere when they removed the septic tank to connect it to city sewer. Yeah whenever you're at the point of seeing cut coax on the demarc it's generally time for for the ISP to come out rather than just sticking more coax on it
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Sep 19, 2020 20:57
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codo27 posted:Consider this very anecdotal but the TP Link C7 was the recommended budget router for a while, and their AX10 wifi6 router can be had for pretty cheap. I'd check out that if price conscious. I actually had it here a couple weeks ago but then I decided I was going to go all ubiquiti so I sent it back, before deciding not to bother to upgrade at all atm because I live in a small 950 sq' house and everything works, and we only have 100mbps service anyway. Yeah I have the C5 from years ago on SA's recommendation (I think I wanted something even more budget than the C7 at the time). It's been a great router but as the household has added more and more little devices to it over the years it's starting to show its age, I think. My internet itself is terrible, I think 7 or 8mbps on a good day with no bad weather is what I can expect, but it's more the improved handling of multiple devices that I want out of WiFi 6. Am I correct in thinking that with WiFi 6, Alexas and phones and etc. requesting things from the router won't mess too terribly with things like a PC or laptop playing a game online or video chatting? Which I think is what's happening now.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:17
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Has anyone seen the Switch 6 24port come into stock on the UI EA store? I just ordered a switch as I need Poe but may hold off if that makes sense.
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Sep 20, 2020 00:04
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Martian Manfucker posted:Any brand recommendations? I got the ASUS AX-3000 router and the TP-Link AX3000 PCIe card. Both work well. The card also has bluetooth but I'm not using it because it requires an internal USB connection and I don't have an extra header and I don't need bluetooth. I could buy an internal hub if I need it. The router setup was easy and it has a lot of features for the price. My only gripe is that I live in Japan and apparently the Japanese model doesn't let you select/change language (even if you install the US firmware) so I certainly wish I'd known that ahead of time. Martian Manfucker posted:Yeah I have the C5 from years ago on SA's recommendation (I think I wanted something even more budget than the C7 at the time). It's been a great router but as the household has added more and more little devices to it over the years it's starting to show its age, I think. My internet itself is terrible, I think 7 or 8mbps on a good day with no bad weather is what I can expect, but it's more the improved handling of multiple devices that I want out of WiFi 6. Am I correct in thinking that with WiFi 6, Alexas and phones and etc. requesting things from the router won't mess too terribly with things like a PC or laptop playing a game online or video chatting? Which I think is what's happening now. Your connection within the house will be more stable but with an internet connection like that you will always have trouble trying to do multiple things at once because your connection to the internet is your bottleneck (and a big one at 7-8mbps). Tuxedo Gin fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 04:03
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I have a TP-link Archer C8 and every time I start to question it I look up the stats and it is hard to justify replacing it. It's been the most stable and reliable router I've owned to date. For my desktop wireless I recently installed a PCIe card and been happy with it - the ASUS PCE-AC55BT. Connection shows as 867 Mb at 5ghz. It also has Bluetooth 4.2 which has worked great and seems like an improved over the Bluetooth 4.0 USB adapter I had been using.. I got it mostly because the USB AC adapter I had used a Realtek chipset which was frequently a pain in Linux, and the ASUS uses an Intel chipset which is better supported. In Windows both worked fine, but the PCIe wireless and Bluetooth seem to function a bit better and more reliable there, too. Plus I got two USB ports back, although that wasn't a big concern.
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Sep 21, 2020 01:57
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