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As i mentioned in the monthly thread I'll be starting the process of importing a Skyline R34 to Germany in the coming months. I'll likely misuse the threadhere to post my experience with the process, the importer, the selection and ultimately the car. To start off: the import will be handled by high Import performance GbR in Wain, germany and the car will be important to the UK by Harlow's Jap Autos or JM imports then trailered to Wain and prepared for german TÜV. The beginning of the process is a 2500 Euro down payment that will be used as a proof of interest and to pay for the initial work of the importer. This will happen if I am satisfied on the contract side and got some positive feedback from other import specialists. My budget for a registered German vehicle is 35000 Euro which, according to some first talks, will be plenty for a manual R34 GTT in perfect condition with significantly less than 60k miles, which is a requirement from my side. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Oct 1, 2020 |
# ? Oct 1, 2020 20:27 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 01:32 |
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Minto Took posted:I was worried the TRD shifter kit would be a pain in the rear end. Finished it today and it was. I ended up lightly sanding the insides of the plastic bushings on the bottom of the bracket then spraying some WD40 in it and was eventually able to work the linkage in. If I had to do it again, I’d probably save up for the actual TRD or STI lever rather than this retrofit kit if they have an easier install, or remove the drive shaft to get some space to work with. Haven’t driven it yet, but it at least gets into all the gears and the throws are shorter, but notchier. I don’t feel any slop or play in it, though I expect there may be an increase in some vibration due to the stronger rear bushing. I also almost got the header on. Four of the six bolts are torqued down, for the remaining two I don’t have a straight shot at them and fill need to figure out something. I tried a u-joint, but you need a deep well socket so I was still hitting the pipes. Are medium well sockets a thing? I just need like a centimeter deeper than what a standard socket provides.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 01:10 |
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Light maintenance on the Del Sol. Valve cover had a little leak and the spark plug grommets were also leaky. New Fel-Pro gasket set and some shiny red paint. I wouldn’t have painted the valve cover if I hadn’t already been taking it off
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 20:17 |
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If you take some sandpaper to the letters and logo on that valve cover and let the silver come back through, I think that'll look pretty good.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 21:06 |
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I was thinking a coat of black with the logo/text taped off
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 21:28 |
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Finished installing the header, used a crow's foot socket rather than the u-joint and was able to get the last bolts torqued up easily. Flashed an updated tune for "Stage 2" power, torque dip is gone and only a minor increase in noise. Haven't taken it on the highway yet so reserving final judgement, but so far would recommend. One thing that is worrisome is I'm getting some smoke from the engine bay. The header was used so it shouldn't have any production residue left, but I did replace all the exhaust gaskets from the heads to the mid pipe so I hope its just them getting settled. Shifter has noticeably shorter throws and is notchier, but so far I haven't missed any shifts. Also changed out the black two piece dash panels that would scuff if you looked at it wrong: For a one piece panel from some Canadian trim level that we didn't get in the US: Maybe some day I'll get a head unit that fills out the space, or at least a better fill panel.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 21:29 |
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I like the new dash piece. Kenwood is coming out with a new headunit with a 10.1" screen which Crutchfield says will fit, though your wallet may disagree: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNR1007/Kenwood-Excelon-Reference-DNR1007XR.html?tp=20212 For me, Cusco half shaft heat shield finally arrived from Glorious Japan and I picked up some foot well lights from the Subaru dealership.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 21:43 |
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Krakkles posted:I was thinking a coat of black with the logo/text taped off So. Much. Prep. Work. For. That. But, I agree, it would be tight. DrChu posted:For a one piece panel from some Canadian trim level that we didn't get in the US: Two clocks?
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:05 |
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Forgot to post this here. Finally got the engine bay epoxy primed/sealed last weekend: This is a nice landmark. Paint turned out to be over 2 years old so required some... aggressive stirring, but seems to have survived and hardened properly, as far as I can tell. Hopefully the high-build primer and color coat also made it OK. I'm going to try and scuff up ("Scotch Brite") the areas that will be visible when assembled, then throw the high-build primer on. Bit of sanding to get everything pretty, then color, though I strongly doubt that will be this weekend.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:15 |
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Darchangel posted:Forgot to post this here. Finally got the engine bay epoxy primed/sealed last weekend: Proper.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:20 |
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Darchangel posted:Forgot to post this here. Finally got the engine bay epoxy primed/sealed last weekend: It looks great! It'll be like wrenching on a factory fresh chassis. So much... Terrain to sand lol.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:22 |
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meatpimp posted:So. Much. Prep. Work. For. That. But, I agree, it would be tight. if you were gonna do that, why not paint it black and then hand paint the raised letters?
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:25 |
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STR posted:Now if I can just find an intact set of rear cup holders.. Dude I got you. I actually have a third, there are maybe two different brown colors I'll have to check. I live in outback country and when texting meatpimp from the u pull today, I remembered you and the other Texan subaru haver (I always whiff on dark or darch) lamenting the state of these things down there, so I grabbed what I could find as I wandered the import section. A quick survey from the pick and pull had 3/4 intact and working. PM for shipping info, paypal, whatever, they were STUPID cheap. Yours for shipping. E: there's the post. Darchangel posted:I gave up on the rear cupholder. I repaired the original, then one of my ladies (wife or daughter, don't know which boliviously folded the seat without folding up the cupholder) destroyed it again. It's a poo poo design - needs to be much beefier to deal with the inevitable brain fade while folding down the rear seat. Come and get 'em, I don't have a subaru. glyph fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Oct 3, 2020 |
# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:35 |
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glyph posted:Dude I got you. I actually have a third, there are maybe two different brown colors I'll have to check. Feel good post of the day.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:37 |
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In honor of the page number I even drove my 535 [xi] to the junkyard today. Scratch that, they're all the same brown, and yes, 3. glyph fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Oct 2, 2020 |
# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:38 |
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Krakkles posted:I was thinking a coat of black with the logo/text taped off I asked the future owner of the car (my son) if he preferred red or black, so red it is. I wanted a resplendent wrinkle red but the store was plumb out.
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:50 |
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meatpimp posted:Two clocks? Toyota really wanted to help design the interior, ok?
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 22:59 |
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Minto Took posted:I like the new dash piece. It seems a lot of manufacturers are now going for that style of big tablet tethered to a single or double DIN base unit. Sony has one as well: https://www.sony.com/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax8000 I could probably be into one that is slightly larger the the opening so its completely covered. 10.1 would be almost quadruple the screen size I currently have. Both that Kenwood and the Sony are missing the one featured I think I'd want: a one button mute. I thought I'd want the physical volume knob my current head unit has, but its slow to turn and respond. The attenuate function only lowers the volume a little and is annoying to activate. Are you running a different exhaust setup that gets real hot, or is the heat shield just extra precaution? meatpimp posted:Two clocks?
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# ? Oct 2, 2020 23:06 |
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meatpimp posted:Proper. Yes. Such a change. StormDrain posted:It looks great! It'll be like wrenching on a factory fresh chassis. Oh my God, yes. So many nooks and crannies and seams. Also surface rust and chips/scratches. Doing the body will be a comparative cakewalk. glyph posted:Dude I got you. I actually have a third, there are maybe two different brown colors I'll have to check. glyph posted:In honor of the page number I even drove my 535 [xi] to the junkyard today. My DUDE! You are the... person (don't want to assume.)
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# ? Oct 3, 2020 00:53 |
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DrChu posted:Are you running a different exhaust setup that gets real hot, or is the heat shield just extra precaution? Just extra precaution. This is my Forever Car.
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# ? Oct 3, 2020 01:48 |
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glyph posted:Dude I got you. I actually have a third, there are maybe two different brown colors I'll have to check. MY MAN PM'd randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Oct 3, 2020 |
# ? Oct 3, 2020 17:55 |
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Took my stock C6 to the local drag strip for the last Friday Fun of the year. My cousin has been running his 6.0L LS powered 67 SS Chevelle, and had been hounding me to run the car down. With a manual 6 speed and street tires, I did 8.4s @ 93 mph in the 1/8th. Not shabby considering it was a cool night and I couldn't really get any traction most of the night. I think with a better tire situation, I could get into low 8s, maybe even high 7s.
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# ? Oct 3, 2020 22:22 |
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Helped a buddy out with his 2016 CX-5. Changed the oil and updated the head unit's firmware to enable CarPlay and installed the new USB hub. He had no idea he could get CarPlay and had been using the horrendous factory nav.
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# ? Oct 4, 2020 00:56 |
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First oil change in the ST. The low profile jack fits, but the little metal ramps I picked up somewhere for free get the front end up enough so I can see where I'm putting it. Ordered: -RS airbox (whoosh whoosh noises, and my airbox has stripped screws and doesn't fit right) -Aftermarket PCV baffle plate (mine is leaking oil, and the stock valve is known for being possibly leaky under boost so this comes with a better one), and intake gaskets just in case. -"sound symposer" delete. No more fake engine noise piped to the cabin. -plastic aftermarket undertray splash shield thing. The stock one is a felt-like material and has not held up very well. So, soon I'll have some fun bits to install, along with swapping the trans fluid and I'll be satisfied that the car is at "stage 0" maintenance level. I thought about swapping the coolant but it's very clean and the radiator petcock has marks from pliers like maybe that's been done at some point, so I'm pretty confident in leaving that for a few miles yet.
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# ? Oct 4, 2020 01:16 |
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I drove it today. First autocross. It was fun. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Oct 5, 2020 |
# ? Oct 4, 2020 02:56 |
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Repainted the sun-faded window frames: It's not perfect but it's a hell of a lot better. Going to pick up some more tape and do the other side next.
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# ? Oct 5, 2020 14:51 |
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Looks great! Black plastic trim is super satisfying to restore.
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# ? Oct 5, 2020 19:48 |
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Swapped my JAYDEEEM OEM HID headlights back on. Angered the car badly by trying to remember which plug disables the daytime running lights with it running (the HID ballasts do not like the reduced power... I wind up with strobes); I now have an airbag, ABS, and check engine light on the dash. Airbag light went off after a shut off and restart. ABS and CEL are still there. CEL code is for charging voltage too high, so I guess it has a separate voltage regulator that looks entirely too much like the DRL module? Didn't realize just how loving yellowed they were. Ugh. The inside of the lens is showing some damage too. I'm kinda tempted to play build-a-headlight with the lenses from my USDM lights, except then I wind up with the amber reflector on the side. And my USDM OEM lights are in fantastic shape - I think if I'm going to swap lenses, I'd rather get some cheap aftermarket headlamps without the amber reflector, and just strip them. TBH, the OEM halogen lights are better with the low beam portion vs the JDM HIDs. But the JDM high beams absolutely drown the USDM high beams. The USDM high beams just light up the same part of the road as the low beams, just with 3x more light. The JDM high beams turn night into day for half a block.
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# ? Oct 6, 2020 18:17 |
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I tried getting my XJ8L up on a lift to look at the suspension and underside, on the way there I had this crazy idea of using the turn signal when I turned which killed the whole electrical system. It was still running and I made the mistake of putting it in park, so you need to push in the brake pedal to get it out of park but the brake lights would kill the electrical system again. After finding a way to pull out the plug and jamming a pen cartridge in the hole I was able to get it in drive and limp home, it felt like it was stuck in 3rd. I coasted to the slab in front of the garage and tried starting it again and nothing. I pulled the battery and everything out of the trunk and began attacking grounds and anything else I could get to with the wire wheel and no-ox grease, then I hit a bunch of grounds under the hood with the same. Success, it started again and I felt like I wouldn't push my luck any further and parked it for the winter. Await my follow up post on this car in the spring when I attempt to clean the grounds I couldn't easily get to. Do the British have conductive grease or does Jaguar just not care?
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# ? Oct 8, 2020 03:37 |
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Belts including timing, converting and servicing the AC system from R12 to R134, changing the oil, changing the thermostat and changing out the old coolant, it's mechanically sound now. Already replaced the door struts, have a set for the rear glass on the way. Today I washed, polished and waxed it getting it pretty for sale. Tomorrow I'll finish up the interior, take pictures of that, then list it. The tires are old and cracked but I can't exactly be sure what the next owner is going to do with the wheels, so I'll leave that up to them. It's a 5 speed and has the LIVE SOUND option, so it's decently unique in the land of Seras. Seras are the easiest way to get into the 'WOW COOL JAY DEE EM' zone. Most of the flash of the AZ-1 but all the maintenance hassle of a Tercel. The label says Sera, but the fine print says Tercel
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# ? Oct 8, 2020 04:40 |
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A couple of days ago, but finally took the top off the Del Sol for the first time Tried out the trunk storage system And picked up some factory 13” alloys to put winter tires on, instead of running steelies and hubcaps Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Oct 8, 2020 |
# ? Oct 8, 2020 18:15 |
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Since I'm documenting this on another forum anyway, I figured I'd dump the same posts into here with some forum specific / personal life stuff cut out. This is what the car looked like after unloading it from the trailer: I took today off work because I was planning to have the car dyno'd, but I ended up taking a hammer to the car instead. I'm no body guy, but I’d like to get the car back to trackable form sooner than later. I’ll grab a new door when one in the right color comes up for sale locally and replace the entire passenger quarter / part of the right quarter during the offseason. I quickly found out that the car had been hit in the front prior as there was a little bit of work done and the fenders had overspray and general signs of being touched. Frame rails look straight and untouched. Door is passable, for now. Popped the bumper out with some heat and pushed the quarter panel out where I could get to it from behind Radiator support was very slightly twisted and pushed down a bit, also the headlight bucket and wing below it, for lack of a better term, were down quite a bit. Straightened out the fender and fixed the gap. Still need to untwist the piece that mounts to the front lower part of the fender a little bit. The real pain in my rear end is the left quarter, the wing mount pulled it down quite a bit and I have no reference for what the area is supposed to be shaped like since both quarters are hosed. This is a bad area since it appears that three pieces of sheet metal meet, realistically it all needs to be cut out to fix it properly. This is what I came up with after a couple of hours It isn’t very great, but at least the tail light fits in, I’ll need to buy another Singular wing to see how much more adjustment I need for now. It looks like the wheel and upper arm kissed the body a little bit at full compression, I’ll need to get the toe plates out and measure the camber once I get it back on the ground. Nothing looks bent to my eye though. Anyway, that’s where I am for now. I need to find: NB2 headlight, preferably with damage since I just need the lens NB2 front bumper Next on the list is : Fixing the area that the wing mounts on the right side of the car (damnit) Pulling the right quarter out as much as I can with glue / slide hammer Cut a new front splitter by making an educated guess with what is left of the old one Cut up a front bumper and attach plastic for the air dam Rebuild the plastic intercooler duct and bend the intercooler mount back Buy another Singular wing since it looks like at least one of the mounts is bent, the wing element is dead, and the endplates went missing
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# ? Oct 8, 2020 18:34 |
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That's some battle scars, there. It's a race car. Get it close enough and call it good (which is what it looks like you're doing.)
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# ? Oct 8, 2020 23:16 |
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Not gonna lie, was pretty sick to my stomach over it for a few days. It's coming along better than I expected it might. Probably end up reusing the front bumper and maybe the airdam after I stich it all back together and probably do a little bit of fiberglass on the back for support.
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# ? Oct 8, 2020 23:48 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Not gonna lie, was pretty sick to my stomach over it for a few days. poo poo, I skimmed over a couple of your posts and thought the car you binned was something else. So you took the turbo miata out and it bit you? Sucks. Those things demand respect when you're putting 250+ hp to the wheels in a very light car. I feel your pain. Have you looked into overfenders? They may allow you to get some more meat for grip back there.
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# ? Oct 9, 2020 00:02 |
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Oh man didn't hear the story of that and figured you bought it that way for cheap. Sucks to hear. At least shells are cheapish and plentiful.
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# ? Oct 9, 2020 00:26 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Since I'm documenting this on another forum anyway, I figured I'd dump the same posts into here with some forum specific / personal life stuff cut out. Ah jeez, that really blows. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=3490129&pagenumber=123&perpage=40#post508631864 I didn't know the story on this until I looked at your post history. Really sucks that the information about 'ice' brakes wasn't disclosed or even advised about during transaction. (I hope it is OK to link that?) I feel for ya. It's just a car, just a race car, you are OK and it kept you safe. Track beasts are intended to get damaged and become a learning tool... Still sucks, sorry.
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# ? Oct 9, 2020 01:56 |
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If you aren't finding much on local CL/FB listings for used body parts, might want to try Mike's: https://miatamecca.com/ Granted it's been a long time since I've been there in person and the website seems to be heavily slanted towards selling maintenance parts these days, but back in the day they always had some partouts / spares on hand.
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# ? Oct 9, 2020 02:10 |
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Alternatively, considering you need like, everything, https://www.miatakitcar.com/
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# ? Oct 9, 2020 02:15 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 01:32 |
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Powershift posted:Alternatively, considering you need like, everything, I wish jink posted:Ah jeez, that really blows. It's all good, it was my fault. I went back over the video a bunch and my general thought is that I got on the brakes, the car wasn't slowing down as expected, I downshifted at higher RPM than intended due to this, the rear locked up and I didn't realize it due to unfamiliarity with the car / being in wtf mode, I turned in to the right, the car went left and either I instinctively counter steered or the car sliding walked the wheel quick, the rear gripped back up, and I had nowhere to go. All in all, it was unfortunate but it was my fault. Suburban Dad posted:Oh man didn't hear the story of that and figured you bought it that way for cheap. Sucks to hear. At least shells are cheapish and plentiful. Yeah, downside is that I need to cage whatever shell it would be, which is roughly $3k through my fab shop. Pretty much the reason I'm going the route of straightening this one out. meatpimp posted:poo poo, I skimmed over a couple of your posts and thought the car you binned was something else. So you took the turbo miata out and it bit you? Sucks. Those things demand respect when you're putting 250+ hp to the wheels in a very light car. I feel your pain. It was my fault, I shouldn't have even taken it to that track since it is notorious for destroying cars. I haven't looked into overfenders yet because it was my belief that they weren't legal for my class, but now that you put it in my mind again I'll double check. I seem to remember something about above the wheel but not behind or in front of the wheel being okay, but maybe that was intended for front fenders. IOwnCalculus posted:If you aren't finding much on local CL/FB listings for used body parts, might want to try Mike's: https://miatamecca.com/ I'm giving them a call tomorrow, I tried earlier and it appears they are closed on Thursdays (good for them!). I thiiiiink I can get everything workable as-is for now until the offseason, at which point I'm putting new OEM quarters on it, a used door of the same color, and finding a used NB2 Red Mica front bumper to cut up. Anyone have an NB Miata? Curious if I could get a picture of what the rain rails are supposed to look like beside the trunk. Is it flat or is there some kind of curve? I figured it was kind of curved when I started beating on the car, but I'm almost positive at this point that they are meant to be flat. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Oct 9, 2020 |
# ? Oct 9, 2020 03:17 |