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There was no surfing thread so here is one now. I'm no authority & I wouldn't know where to start on any kind of comprehensive OP, so I'll just share what I've been up to lately. I have gotten back into surfing recently after close to 10 years away from it, and man what a fool I was for ever leaving it by the wayside! I picked up a classic Costco Wavestorm (the ur-starter board) after moving closer to the coast last summer but started going more consistently this year. After a beautiful hot Sunday cruising long lazy shoulders in Oceanside on the foam board a couple months back, I was hooked again. So I got on Craigslist and scored a great deal on a 6'2" quad fin fish and it's a game changer. I'd never surfed a fish before and the combo of wave catchability, easy speed generation, and maneuverability is just so much fun, particularly in the smaller mushier surf we get during SoCal summers.  This past weekend an acquaintance talked me into going up to Trestles with him, and just wow! I can't believe I never made it up there before. Incredibly consistent and clean, even on the lesser peaks we surfed to avoid the main crowds. I was a little intimidated heading there at first, what with Trestles being perhaps the most famous/popular break on the west coast, but it was super chill and we had a great time surfing till our arms were ready to fall off. I am trying to get out on the water at least twice a week right now in hopes of regaining some skills and conditioning before winter. Right now I'd have no shot trying to ride my old 6'6" epoxy thruster I used to ride in college (a dozen years and 25 lbs ago...) Post about surfing! 
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Sep 15, 2020 21:18
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I'm a complete noob who's only ever surfed once and didn't even get up. What's the best type of board to learn on? For reference, my beach is Kure Beach, NC. So we're not talking Pacific waves, but we do get the best the Atlantic can offer.
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Sep 16, 2020 05:04
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I’ve been (very casually) surfing for about 20-ish years in Western Australia. I’m recently getting back into it after 8 months of very little surfing due to injury and having a newborn to look after. The waves here range from mostly awful and mushy, to good sometimes, to world class a few hours south in Margaret River. I’ve currently got 3 boards, a DIY hollow wooden board I made from a kit. My favourite board, a 6ft Simmons/fish type quad that goes amazing in almost everything and a Haydenshapes Shred-sled, which is from my younger and fitter days.  Dik Hz posted:I'm a complete noob who's only ever surfed once and didn't even get up. What's the best type of board to learn on? For reference, my beach is Kure Beach, NC. So we're not talking Pacific waves, but we do get the best the Atlantic can offer. I’ve surfed northern OBX before (only in the summer) and from memory most days were fairly gentle, so you might want to look at something like a 8-9ft fun board type of thing. Foamies these days are actually pretty good too, and I’d recommend them for a learner because you won’t be too worried about damaging your board.
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Sep 16, 2020 06:04
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Dik Hz posted:I'm a complete noob who's only ever surfed once and didn't even get up. What's the best type of board to learn on? For reference, my beach is Kure Beach, NC. So we're not talking Pacific waves, but we do get the best the Atlantic can offer. It will float and paddle easy, be nice and stable as you learn to stand up, and since it’s soft it’s difficult for you to damage the board in transport or the board to damage you (or others) in action.
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Sep 16, 2020 06:13
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I've surfed in the PNW before. I thought it was a lot of fun and a great way to spend a couple days on the beach. It really reminded me of tobogganing where most of the work goes into getting where you need to be in order to actually do the thing, and once you're there it's only a brief moment of joy before you either crash and burn or come to a stop. It's just fun enough to keep doing it over and over again until you've become so exhausted that you can no longer keep your internal body temperature up. Bigger waves in more popular locations probably offer a completely different experience.
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Sep 16, 2020 21:59
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It's fun to watch people surf, from the safety of shore or computer. People surf the bore tide up here. They mostly use stand up paddle boards, I dunno if people use regular surf boards to do it. This guy used a packraft, with amusing results https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tM8mYY5tf6g
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Sep 20, 2020 17:47
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more goofy surf-like things, including an RC surfer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KI7rXMs0ycA
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Sep 25, 2020 07:51
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I signed up for a surfing lesson next week and I'm super stoked. Somehow I only learned a few days ago that people actually surf on Lake Michigan, despite living minutes away for large chunks of my life. Out of curiosity, do wetsuits actually keep you warm, or is it mostly just going to slow down hypothermia a bit?
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Oct 3, 2020 03:21
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Wetsuits absolutely keep you warm and are a necessity at certain temperatures. When it gets cold enough you need to dry suit but at that point you’re probably not surfing. I have a 0.5mm top (like a long sleeve shirt) for summer mornings and late spring/early fall, and a 3/2 full suit for the winter. When it’s real cold (for SoCal) I bust out the booties cause it’s hard to surf when your feet are numb.
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Oct 3, 2020 04:52
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Yeah, they mentioned that it'd be the full get-up (suit, booties, gloves) because the lake is in the mid 50s right now.
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Oct 3, 2020 05:01
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Double posting to say that I got out surfing today. It was a beautiful day for early October, especially with the garbage weather we have had the last few weeks. I went with a private lesson through a local store, which turned out to be a mistake because the dude was useless. Like, utterly uninterested in teaching or providing feedback. The waves were great though. I never managed to pop up successfully, but I felt like hot poo poo the first time I managed to catch an unbroken wave. I had to cut the lesson short because of a bad bout of seasickness. That doesn't seem to be a common thing, so I was wondering if there were recommendations for avoiding it. e: Also I accidentally ended up in somebody's path and they had to bail off the wave, so I'm pretty sure I hit the free space in kook bingo. Baronash fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 01:08
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Baronash posted:Double posting to say that I got out surfing today. It was a beautiful day for early October, especially with the garbage weather we have had the last few weeks. I went with a private lesson through a local store, which turned out to be a mistake because the dude was useless. Like, utterly uninterested in teaching or providing feedback. The waves were great though. I never managed to pop up successfully, but I felt like hot poo poo the first time I managed to catch an unbroken wave. Congrats on popping up. I should explore Lake Ontario, I know people surf it but I'm not sure where on the NY side. The problem is I don't have anyone to go with and the idea of surfing by myself in a lake I'm not very familiar with sounds like a fairly dumb idea. I'm a very strong swimmer but even so. Lessons can definitely be hit or miss. My first one was worthless for the same reason as yours, instructor just didn't give a poo poo, he was very attentive with the female students though. Second time I did a private lesson from a different beach boy place and this dude was amazing. I've only been surfing a few times which sucks, but at least on the flipside it was in Waikiki so I'm not complaining. I started on a 10 foot foamie (poo poo it may have been 12) but my last session I got down to a 9 foot board and was able to get up on it.
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Oct 26, 2020 12:22
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Gonna revive this thread cuz surfing rules. https://youtu.be/Vu7ToVYljos
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May 26, 2022 20:49
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I completely forgot there was a surfing thread or that I had posted in it. My wife and I moved to North Carolina last year, so we've gone surfing a couple times since we came. The instructor we found here was far more attentive, and I've just started to learn how to actually turn the surfboard and not just ride it straight into the beach. And the longer gaps between waves really helped keep the seasickness down, so I can almost handle a full lesson. 
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May 26, 2022 20:55
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Hey yall! I am super down to get this thread going, so I'll start with a question I grew up in a very popular surfing locale on the central coast of CA, so I have around 15 years of surfing under my belt. Over time I dropped it for a few years (what can I say, corporate living/ getting married/ etc) Just today I finally got around to buying a new wetsuit, a 4/3 Oneill Psychofreak 1 The problem is, I'm a little too big for it- I'm a bodybuilder so sizing me is difficult and the official size chart is completely useless to me. So I ended up picking up an XLS (extra large short) suit, which is kind of small on me. It's hard to put on due to the smaller size, but doable. If I went up to 2XLS I think it would be too big. That puts me in a weird position. So my question is: will the wetsuit stretch over time to fit my frame? Is it better to stick with a suit that is too small initally, so that the suit stretches over time to fit your body? Or, do wetsuits not expand over time, and I should get the larger size? You might be asking "how do you not know this if you have 15 years of surfing under your belt" and the answer is simple- I wasn't a bodybuilder while I was a surfer, so this was never a problem before. Thanks yall e: Baronash posted:I completely forgot there was a surfing thread or that I had posted in it. My wife and I moved to North Carolina last year, so we've gone surfing a couple times since we came. The instructor we found here was far more attentive, and I've just started to learn how to actually turn the surfboard and not just ride it straight into the beach. And the longer gaps between waves really helped keep the seasickness down, so I can almost handle a full lesson. Nice man. The east coast is generally a great place to learn as most of it is beach break and the waves are usually pretty small. Keep us updated  your sea sickness should subside quickly; honestly I haven't even heard of someone being seasick from just sitting in the lineup before, so I'm guessing it's something most people acclimate to super quick.
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May 27, 2022 20:49
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As long as you have full arm mobility without hurting yourself or ripping the suit you’ll be fine. Always a bit stretchy in the water and it will get a bit looser. As long as you’re able to maintain form it’ll be a bit of extra resistance training. Now getting out of it after being all burned out after a long session, that’s another story.
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May 28, 2022 00:17
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Haha yeah, ok thanks.pugnax posted:Now getting out of it after being all burned out after a long session, that’s another story. For our crew it was always getting out of the water after a cold session up north. Good luck... can't even feel your fingers to do the job.
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May 28, 2022 04:52
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My wetties have always stretched after about 6 months to a year. I’m not sure if the thickness would play into that though, I’ve only ever needed a 2/3 here in West Aus.
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May 28, 2022 05:01
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Do you worry about sharks? That's all we hear about west Aus, here in California. Also do you ever go to NW Australia? I hear there are amazing, uncrowded reefs and points up there. That's all I surf mainly, and looking at a map, you probably have mostly lefts? Which would be awesome. I'm goofy but am mostly forced into surfing rights. You're basically sandwiched by great waves if you go north or south, right? haha Oh and to close out the wetsuit question- I got the sizing figured out and it works great. I chose a 4/3, but a lot of people are sizing down to a 3/2 (for decades NO one had a 3/2 but it sounds like neoprene tech has improved).
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May 28, 2022 20:26
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Taima posted:I'm goofy but am mostly forced into surfing rights. Since coming back to the Ventura area I’ve decided to try and ride regular, too many great rights all around.
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May 28, 2022 23:31
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If you haven’t been paying attention to what Dane Reynolds is up to, he’s got a new Chapter 11 video out. https://youtu.be/JkzDuIBGKBY
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Jun 2, 2022 05:33
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Taima posted:Do you worry about sharks? That's all we hear about west Aus, here in California. I tread a fine line between being worried about sharks and ignoring that feeling haha! I have had to leave the water a few times because someone spotted one, and once because a guy on the next beach up got chomped. Perth basically sits in a swell shadow caused by a few islands and offshore reefs, if you go south or north for 1-2 hours (or more) you get the raw ocean swells (mostly lefts as you guessed because of the swell direction). The NW is barely populated, so even the well-known spots are generally uncrowded. But you're also a long way from help if something goes wrong and it can get pretty serious at places like Gnarloo and Red Bluff. Margaret River a big tourist region, so its more crowded, but the reef and beachbreak waves are quality up and down the entire region.
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Jun 3, 2022 05:35
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pugnax posted:Since coming back to the Ventura area I’ve decided to try and ride regular, too many great rights all around. Dude if you do this please keep the thread up on your progress! I have tried to switch to regular, since literally 95% of what I surf is rights as well, but it's gone poorly. If you can make it work, I might give it a try again. I'm cheering for you. A baby ate my dingo posted:I tread a fine line between being worried about sharks and ignoring that feeling haha! I have had to leave the water a few times because someone spotted one, and once because a guy on the next beach up got chomped. Haha yeah man I feel you. Our area is fairly non sharky, but it's surrounded by scary spots that DO have their share of great whites. By far hardest thing for me to deal with skarks wise was night surfing. I love night surfing, it loving owns and having entire point breaks to yourself is next level, but I'll tell ya man when I was starting out, I would bump into kelp at night and freak out a little. It's worth it though; some of the best waves I've ever caught in my life were night surfing, because you can park on peak and get amazing waves, plus the feeling of pumping down the line on a 300 meter right and kicking out, with nothing but moonlight illumating the face JUST RIGHT, is just impossibly good. Perth is definitely shadowed but I'm guessing when it's really big the spots can light up? And I feel you on being far from help in the NW, it sounds super barren and also, it has to be said, the fewer people, the higher chances that a shark attack will be on you and not someone else. Safety in numbers lol. If I were to move somewhere to surf, Aus would be up there, but only the west coast. The crowding issues you guys have in your most popular areas is unreal. Superbank and that entire region just looks impossible to get waves, from my perspective who knows. It also seems like Australians have absolutely no problem snaking waves at the most crowded spots, which is... not ideal. West Australia is definitely up there with the best waves in the world though, as its situated to get swells direct from the indian ocean, which has been on an absolute tear for decades now. Idk how much you know about how surf climate works, but the indian ocean wasn't always the embarassment of riches that it is now, and it could change at any point. Basically the world is in a constant tug of war for surf. If the waves are particularly good in the indian ocean, that means the waves are worse in the Pacific, and vice versa. The water has warmed substantially in the Indian Ocean, leading to a prolonged multi decadal period of better waves in the region. Anyways, I was able to make it out today and caught some hollow ones at a fickle sand reef/point setup down from my house, it was super fun. I ended up grabbing a 4/3 Oneill Psycho One (I like the Psycho Tech too but it's not durable enough for my tastes). I have ties to Oneill so that's all I really use. I would be curious on people's opinions on the best wetsuits though. I am something of an expert on the science of surf climate, with a focus on El Nino, so if anyone ever has questions about how all of the various factors of swell generation I am your man. Happy to be part of the thread! This is the suit I got- not as technologically advanced as the no-seam poo poo, but lasts for years longer and frankly the loss of flexibility isn't even that bad. You can see right away that is had large liquid seams, which again makes the suit significantly less flexy but built like a tank:  I only do chest zips because I work out a lot on the side and if you have broad shoulders it is FAR better than a back zip. So if anyone has particularly broad shoulders- check out a chest zip for sure. Otherwise, I think back zips are generally a bit more comfortable and easier to use. I haven't bought a new suit in several years and I'm amazed at how good the tech has gotten! Taima fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 5, 2022 |
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Jun 5, 2022 22:31
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HI, surf goons. I just booked a week long adult surf camp for myself this summer on Long Island. I only surfed for the first time a few years ago on vacation in Hawaii but it's something I'd like to do as often as I get access to the ocean, which sadly isn't very often. I have considered buying a Wavestorm and a 6/5 and trying my luck on Lake Ontario in the winter but since I have nobody to surf with I'd probably die.
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Jun 7, 2022 12:52
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Just days away from my surf vacation! I wonder how conditions are on Long Island......
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Jul 21, 2022 13:16
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Long Island Surf Report. Overall, I had an amazing trip. The conditions on the first day sucked, 5-6 foot but totally blown-out. They had us just stay inside and work on popups from a push. Day 2 was cleaner but still pretty big. I heard one of the instructors say to nobody in particular "holy poo poo, it's firing" as we were paddling out. One particular bomb rolled though and I barely got over it before it started to break and when I looked back over my shoulder I felt like I was looking down a drop of about 8 feet to the bottom. The set waves were rolling in at chest to shoulder high. The first two days they had me on the same 9 foot foamie as everyone else, and at 6'2" 225lbs. I was really struggling. When I first surfed in Hawaii in 2018 I weighed around 190 and I found the extra weight to be a big hinderance. I wasn't able to stand up on the first two days. Day 3 was the 2-3 feet waves at 11s. In the early session (each day was 830ish to 11, break from 11 to 1130, and then 1130 to 1230) I was still on the 9-footer and I managed to stand up twice. On Day 4 it was 2-3 feet but only 6s. However, this was day of the trip for me. They let me take out the 11 footer (was technically a SUP) and I promptly caught a wave on my second try and rode it all the way to shore. I stood up on five or six waves that morning, and had a couple where I was able to ride all the way in. Then tragedy struck. On the way in for lunch, Iet's just say the fin got messed up and leave it at that. I didn't do it! :innocent: Unfortunately, that was the only 11 footer they had. For session two I was back on the 9 footer but did manage to catch a wave. On Friday conditions were slightly smaller and the sets were less frequent. I had one good opportunity to catch a wave but had to back off or I would have run over one the special needs kids. Overall, it was a great experience. My instructor was a really good dude. In seeing how the staff of the camp (Skudin) interacted with the parents of the kids groups, the junior students, and the kids there for their charity (Surf For All) it was obvious that it was a business that was legitimately invested in the community and made up of good people. I do wish they had emphasized etiquette a little more, I was getting kind of frustrated with people in the adult group backpaddling on the last two days. Because of it, I felt like I spent the whole session repositioning and there were continuously people on the inside of me. I also wish they had a couple more larger boards, but in retrospect I maybe should've made sure of that before booking. I went back and checked the website and it does say "Surfboard – 6ft, 7ft, 8ft, 9ft foam boards provided" so, fair enough, I guess that one is on me.
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Jul 31, 2022 13:29
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Anyone here bodyboard or bodysurf? I've been getting some fun beach break as of late at Carmel Beach. 4-6 foot waves pitching onto 1-2 foot deep water leading to some pretty sandy and dark barrels. It's quite nice tbh.
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Aug 27, 2022 15:55
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Bulky Bartokomous posted:Long Island Surf Report. Overall, I had an amazing trip. The conditions on the first day sucked, 5-6 foot but totally blown-out. They had us just stay inside and work on popups from a push. Day 2 was cleaner but still pretty big. I heard one of the instructors say to nobody in particular "holy poo poo, it's firing" as we were paddling out. One particular bomb rolled though and I barely got over it before it started to break and when I looked back over my shoulder I felt like I was looking down a drop of about 8 feet to the bottom. The set waves were rolling in at chest to shoulder high. The first two days they had me on the same 9 foot foamie as everyone else, and at 6'2" 225lbs. I was really struggling. When I first surfed in Hawaii in 2018 I weighed around 190 and I found the extra weight to be a big hinderance. I wasn't able to stand up on the first two days. I'm surprised they took you out that far - was this like a beginner beginner course or aimed at people who could already surf a little? I've been taking some lessons and the first bunch have all been in the already broken waves. It's good tbh because it's a busy spot but all the experienced surfers are way further out and so we don't get in each others way
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Sep 13, 2022 17:29
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distortion park posted:I'm surprised they took you out that far - was this like a beginner beginner course or aimed at people who could already surf a little? I've been taking some lessons and the first bunch have all been in the already broken waves. It's good tbh because it's a busy spot but all the experienced surfers are way further out and so we don't get in each others way Experience varied from never surfed before to one guy in our group that was probably on the low-end of the intermediate spectrum. There were 8 of us in the adult group. Each of the age groups had their own spot between the two jetties that were 1/4 mile apart. The school pretty much owned this stretch of beach. There were no non-school surfers out there with us at all. I think they know to avoid it would be my guess, so it was never an issue. i flunked out posted:Anyone here bodyboard or bodysurf? I've been getting some fun beach break as of late at Carmel Beach. 4-6 foot waves pitching onto 1-2 foot deep water leading to some pretty sandy and dark barrels. It's quite nice tbh. GTFO dick dragger. Does that sick burn make me a real surfer now? Bulky Bartokomous fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Sep 13, 2022 |
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Sep 13, 2022 22:39
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Bulky Bartokomous posted:GTFO dick dragger. honestly most animosty ive experienced between surfers and bodyboarders has always been bodyboarders who are being protective of bodyboarding spots when surfers come in. In my experience surfers mostly just tell me where the better bodyboarding break is so I dont crowd the good surf breaks.
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Sep 13, 2022 23:03
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Who makes high-end wetsuits for surfing? I have a nice Fourth Element one I use for diving but the neck and shoulders are really awkward for keeping my head up and paddling. I’m in SoCal so I think a good 3mm should keep me year-round. Mobbys? Axxe? Others?
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Oct 20, 2022 17:15
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All the major surf brands will make expensive wetsuits. I’ve always got on with xcel and Patagonia suits. Go to a surf shop, try some on is my advice.
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Oct 20, 2022 19:35
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Echoing the try them on sentiment. You will find some brands just work better for yourself than others, maybe its the flexibility, maybe its the skintightness, sometimes its the type of seam they use. I've had good success with Oniell, Buell, and XCEL. Big name brands, and therefore a slightly more expensive wetsuit.
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Oct 20, 2022 20:48
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Yeah just hit up a surf shop and try. I much prefer the overhead closure to the back zip but others hate it. In the San Diego region I’ve been fine with a 2/3 plus booties on the coldest days, though I know plenty of people like to be toasty in a 3/4 mid winter. Some people complain about grip and feeling with booties but I always found it preferable to numb feet which definitely don’t have good feeling for the board.
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Oct 20, 2022 21:51
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I think they're all made in the same factory in Thailand
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Oct 21, 2022 06:56
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I'm going to be in Maui for a week this summer and it just occurred to me that surfing is something I may want to try. Any good recommendations for lessons for someone who has never surfed before and likely isn't going to have another opportunity for a long time?
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Feb 3, 2023 17:29
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Meaty Ore posted:I'm going to be in Maui for a week this summer and it just occurred to me that surfing is something I may want to try. Any good recommendations for lessons for someone who has never surfed before and likely isn't going to have another opportunity for a long time? I’ve only been to Oahu so no specific recommendations. You should do it is my only recommend. Take a lesson. Instructors will keep you safe from the ocean and from pissing off locals and take the mystery out of everything. I’m sure they have beach boys there just like Oahu that have stands on the beach offering rentals and lessons.
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Feb 13, 2023 18:56
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Had my first session of the year yesterday. Felt great to be out and catching waves without too many people out but drat I'm unfit
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Mar 29, 2023 07:54
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Just got back from my trip to Maui. I took a surf lesson there along with my wife and my sister. It was my first time surfing, and I had a lot fun! After giving a brief (15-20 minutes or so) lesson on land going over how to stand up and balance, the teacher took us across to the beach park across the street (Kalama Park in Kihei) to practice standing up from pushes--on knees as first, then starting on our bellies and standing up after paddling a few strokes as the waves caught us. I managed to stand up on both of my first two attempts, followed by a couple of falls; the rest of my experience kind of followed a similar pattern and I ended up the day having a few more successful rides than failures, maybe a 60/40 ratio or so. The shop also sold us photos of us surfing, a common theme at a lot of tourist-related activities as I found out. Since we were all in the water at the same time, I didn't mind paying for it. The rates weren't awful for photos we wouldn't have been able to get ourselves. It was a good place to learn--the beach there is really shallow, something like 4 feet deep several hundred feet from shore, with gentle waves in the morning giving way to bigger ones as the tide comes in after noon. The main problem was that it's a fairly busy beach, with other surfers taking lessons and plenty of miscellaneous other swimmers around. The upside was that it gave me some practice learning how to steer around other people, mostly kids standing there gormlessly as a 43-year old man standing on a foam plank floated towards them at something like 10 miles per hour or so. I think what surprised me most was how easy it was--I had been anticipating more trouble getting up on my feet. Probably just a combination of the boards used (I was using a 12' foam soft top with a single fin, the other two used 11-footers), the gentle waves, the boots which provided some traction, and my own sense of balance. It all felt incredibly intuitive by the end of the session--when things went wrong and I didn't pop up, I knew where I had erred--trying to stand too soon, too late, putting to much weight on my back foot/standing too far back, etc. I'd love to try it again sometime and try to improve, though it'll probably have to be on Lake Michigan--it's the closest surfing spot to me, and it's still a minimum 2-hour drive one way for me to get there. Anyways, here's some pictures of me surfing: First time up  Getting a bit more comfortable  Probably my favorite shot of myself, figuring out how to maneuver a bit 
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Jul 18, 2023 01:57
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Any UK surf goons on here? I spannered my ankle over Easter and so the other stupid hobby (mountainbikes) has had to go - which means I'm surfing more. I've been using the wave in bristol for rehab and it's been a lot better than I expected it to be... Did the other obvious middle aged wanker move and got a midlength - but so far it's been pretty impressive. Definitely not the mini mal I was expecting it to be.
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Jul 26, 2023 17:21
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