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I'm not ragging on the install, just mentioning that copper comes in rolls. It's not all straight pipe. I use rolled copper in situations like that. To be fair, you need to get it right the first time because work hardening is a bitch.
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Oct 10, 2020 00:00
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Motronic posted:I'm not ragging on the install, just mentioning that copper comes in rolls. It's not all straight pipe. I use rolled copper in situations like that. To be fair, you need to get it right the first time because work hardening is a bitch.
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Oct 10, 2020 00:12
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SpartanIvy posted:I've never seen 3/4" rolled before, but that's something I'll keep in mind if I need to mess with it again. To be fair, I still have a bunch of a roll that I bought more than 10 years ago so........I guess it's still a thing? Copper got crazy there for a while.
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Oct 10, 2020 00:16
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Looks like you had a knife fight in a phone booth. Nice result.
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Oct 10, 2020 03:02
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18" of metallic pipe on the WH is only technically required on atmospheric vented tanks, like the one you have here. The reason is because of the exhaust, not the water temperature. It is not necessary on electric or power vented units, though local codes may not make this distinction. It's best practice to always do it. Do those copper flex connecters contain a rubber o-ring inside of the nut? I don't believe Rheem units come with dielectric nipples direct fun from the factory. If there is no o-ring inside of those connectors, even though the nut is brass, the copper face of the tubing will be in direct contact with galvanized steel. This will lead to galvanic corrosion and will leak sooner than later.
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Oct 10, 2020 03:06
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BubbaGrace posted:18" of metallic pipe on the WH is only technically required on atmospheric vented tanks, like the one you have here. The reason is because of the exhaust, not the water temperature. It is not necessary on electric or power vented units, though local codes may not make this distinction. It's best practice to always do it. There is indeed a rubber o-ring on the inside of the copper flex tube. In addition there is a plastic spacer thing on the nipple which I believe is a dialectric inhibitor, but maybe it's something else? Everything besides the nipples are pex, brass, and copper though.
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Oct 10, 2020 03:19
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Usually the plastic lining you see on the inside of water heater nipples are heat traps with no dielectic properties. Can't say for sure with out seeing it or the spec sheet for the unit. Either way it's not necessary at this point because of the o-ring and brass nut.
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Oct 10, 2020 03:29
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B-Nasty posted:Start digging. Motronic posted:I'd suggest you let the honey truck find it and dig the caps up. B-Nasty posted:call a septic company out. Hey thanks for the replies. I believe in admitting when you’re embarrassingly ignorant and... ...I have a septic fluid pump that pumps into the mound ...the pump GFI was tripped  Anyway I let them pump the tank as the $300 to diagnose and pump was a cheap education and I learned how the system is run and worked without having to dig it up myself. I replaced the toilet and wax ring and everything works perfectly.
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Oct 10, 2020 03:34
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CarForumPoster posted:Anyway I let them pump the tank as the $300 to diagnose and pump was a cheap education and I learned how the system is run and worked without having to dig it up myself. There you go. You pay for knowledge and as much as many of us would have liked to reach out of your screen and figure that poo poo out.......it's just not possible. This stuff isn't all THAT standard where we can give specific advice before you know the things that you know now. Hopefully you won't have another issue, but now you know stuff about how your system works and you know locations of things. Perhaps we can help you DIY the next one. The most important thing you just figured out which you MUST mention at any point in the future when asking for help: your septic system isn't passive/gravity drain. That is a HUGE distinction and sometimes you just have to suck that up (and it does suck, I'm sorry, but that's awful and I'd dig a lot if it was ever possible to avoid that). So from hereforth....you need to qualify septic problems with "I have a <insert correct thing but I think it's a pit with a pump past the settling box>" Because that's NOT what the average person who knows/does septic is gonna assume unless this is a thing in your specific area and they are from your specific area. Around here, that happens when all else fails based on grade. In a reno. Where the 50+ year old septic failed.
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Oct 10, 2020 04:09
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This is only barely a plumbing issue, but I think it's the best place for it. I woke up this morning to discover the left side of our bathroom's undermount sink...sank by about an inch. I look under it, and it turns out whoever installed this thing just didn't use clips to hold it to the counter. There are holes there, but they're just not being used. It seems like this thing was being kept on for at least a year and half (which is about how long we've been here), by the silicon caulk. Until stores open, we've jammed various household objects under there to keep the entire sink from falling out and loving the pipes. I thought this might be an annoying but relatively simple two person job that involves me removing the sink and just doing everything right, but how bad of an idea would it be to just put the clips on and keep the existing caulk? The fact that the right side is still "securely" attached to the counter means its already aligned, which is nice. It would make it an extremely simple job, and one I could do on my own, which would be nice since my wife is in the office today and I would prefer not to invite people into my home in these corona times. Boxman fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Oct 10, 2020 |
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Oct 10, 2020 12:37
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Boxman posted:This is only barely a plumbing issue, but I think it's the best place for it. The janky way would be to add sealant around the exposed underside area, jam some extra along the edge that's partially failed, and install the clips. The right way is to remove the drain pipes (not hard if it's done correctly), drop the sink, scrape off the old sealant, thoroughly clean the interface, apply new sealant, and reinstall. Once it's installed and the sealant is nicely smoothed, reattach the drain. Chances are, you won't get a perfect seal if you just squirt and jam. Up to you if you care. You can also just wait till the wife gets back
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Oct 10, 2020 14:29
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I've had a similar problem with an undermount sink. The original epoxy anchors broke off and were no longer attached to the granite. Drilling new holes into the granite from inside of the cabinet was not a fun task. After drilling one, I said gently caress it and built a support frame out of wood. It's been 8 years, still looking good. Silicone on the inside, epoxy on outside
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Oct 10, 2020 14:58
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It’s good to know it isn’t catastrophically dumb to just add extra sealant. The thing has an overflow hole, so hopefully that seal is never really tested. The “problem” with doing it the proper way is that removing the drain pipes is easy if you do it right, but It’s something I’ve never done, so I’m not sure what the right way is (or the wrong way, lol.)
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Oct 10, 2020 15:38
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The most correct way to install an undermount sink is to put a shelf underneath the sink supporting it, with holes cut out for the waste, AND have a shelf underneath the countertop that holds the flange (routed to allow for the thickness of the flange). That way you have solid surfaces holding everything, no clips or structural silicone. Hard to do that after the fact of course, but you could put in the lower shelf supports at least.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:20
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CancerCakes posted:The most correct way to install an undermount sink is to put a shelf underneath the sink supporting it, with holes cut out for the waste, AND have a shelf underneath the countertop that holds the flange (routed to allow for the thickness of the flange). That way you have solid surfaces holding everything, no clips or structural silicone. LOL. What? Metal clips screwed or epoxied into the granite isn't sufficient? In what world? I agree that sealant alone isn't sufficient, but 4-8 clips around the edge are more than adequate. No need for multiple structural shelves. You can get the jacking clips/clamps if you really want to.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:38
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I have seen where the huge apron sinks need support under them, but I think for most bathroom and smaller undermount sinks that the clips and caulk are fine.
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Oct 10, 2020 20:21
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Fair enough, most bathroom sinks never get filled with water anyway! My triple undermount in the kitchen is fully supported because it isn't much more effort to do prior to the tops going on, and you aren't relying on silicone sealant as a glue when supporting almost 100 kg of water. If you are going to use an adhesive at least use a proper hybrid sealant/adhesive like OB1 or CT1 - with those if you seal it properly you can stand in the sink and it won't go anywhere. However, if you gently caress it up when you are installing it there isn't any second chances. Speaking of sealants - when doing wastes do people silicone the washers and flanges? I have not on the kitchen sink wastes and no issues - probably because it is steel and the washers make a good seal. But the bath waste washers don't seem to be able to seal it properly - probably because of the bumpy surface from when the bath was cast. I don't like spaffing silicone around the place and I have been told that it can sometimes make things worst with waste washers. Any advice?
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Oct 10, 2020 21:34
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Just a reminder to everyone, DIY secret santa registrations are open! Everyone is welcome to participate, and we're especially looking for ausgoons. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260
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Oct 11, 2020 06:21
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CarForumPoster posted:Hey thanks for the replies. I believe in admitting when you’re embarrassingly ignorant and... Did the company make any mention of installing an alarm? Those are pretty common on mound/pumped systems, to deal with the exact issue you had here. If the pump fails, a higher water level in the tank trips a loud buzzer in your house. Then, you know to check on it/call somebody before poo water starts bubbling out of your lowest toilet.
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Oct 12, 2020 01:14
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I could use some help figuring out how to do hot water recirculation for my bathroom addition/remodel. Everything on the 2nd floor is going to be new PEX (the 5.5GPM line going vertically). I have a standard 50 gallon gas water heater. I have (reasonably) easy access to run a return line. Here's what my dad and I diagrammed for normal trunk and branch  Here's my stab at what it should look like if I want a hot water recirculation pump  Am I on the right track?
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Oct 12, 2020 23:16
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I could use some help figuring out how to do hot water recirculation for my bathroom addition/remodel. Can you instead do a manifold, and recirculate between the heater and the manifold?  Bonus: You might not even need the pump, because you'll only have to clear the line from the fixture to the manifold, and the manifold to the water heater. That's going to save you a bunch of money long term on not heating all the water in your house all of the time. One of the benefits of pex is you can do a manifold + home runs, whereas that would be prohibitively expensive with copper.
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Oct 13, 2020 00:14
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I completely regret not buying an elongated toilet.
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Oct 13, 2020 02:31
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devicenull posted:Can you instead do a manifold, and recirculate between the heater and the manifold? I could probably do a couple home runs, but I'm going up a 6"x6" wall cavity to the 2nd floor which makes doing all home runs difficult. Also my home run would be like 40' or so, which makes me think I would still need a pump to get hot water quick.
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Oct 13, 2020 03:25
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I'm not able to draw a picture at the moment but I would run a 1/2" return off the 3/4" pipe at the furthest point downstream. As long as you're keeping the 3/4" filled with hot water, it'll only take a second or two to get to the fixture from there, and if you ever need to bypass the recirculation pump/line, an inline valve is all it would take to return to a non-recirculating setup.
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Oct 13, 2020 06:06
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Hi, we're renting a newly built townhome (2017) and our pipes have started making a very loud humming/buzzing sound when we run water. It's worst with the washing machine. Curiously, I can make the sound go away by running water from somewhere other than what's currently causing the noise. It's not my problem to fix (I've contacted maintenance) but I am curious about what the problem might be and what the risks would be if it was never fixed.
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Oct 15, 2020 00:43
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Hello DIYers! We have a new forum/mod feedback thread and would love to hear your thoughts! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944213 Get ready to read this message 15 more times in every thread you read!
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Oct 16, 2020 01:29
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I'm replacing the shower arm/head, handle, and tub spout, and of course, what should have been a simple job has ended up not being so simple. The old tub spout had the connection to the water about midway through the fixture, and the existing water line extends 3-3/4" from the wall. When I looked at the new spout, and the instructions, it says I need the water line 5/8" - 3/4" from the wall. Water line:  New fixture connection:  Fixture instructions:  What are my options here? Cut the pipe close to the wall and add some kind of push to connect fitting, and hope it's not too long? I tried to look in the cut-out in the tile to see what kind of existing pipe fitting is in there, but I couldn't be 100% sure. If it's threaded, I could just unscrew the whole segment and replace it with a shorter piece, right? Can I get a custom length threaded pipe segment at Home Depot or something? If it's soldered, I assume I'll need to cut the pipe and hope I can get it short enough. I really really don't want to take the tile off, but if it comes to that, I'll probably just suck it up and hire someone to do it.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:47
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Does it have an adapter for slip-on use instead of threaded? I did mine a few months ago and it had both options; the pipe was in spec for me, but if it wasn't I could have just run a pipe cutter around it and used the adapter. In retrospect I should have gone with that because the gap is closer to 1/2" than 1/4" and the caulking would have looked neater if I went with the slip on and cut the pipe to be exact.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:55
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You require successful-screw-extractor luck to have that stub-out threaded at the mixer. They're usually soldered. Options: 1) Cut it back and solder on a threaded nipple 2) Return that and get a faucet with the deep-set threading or a slip fitting. You may have more options, should you have access to the plumbing behind the wall. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 00:58
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PainterofCrap posted:You require successful-screw-extractor luck to have that stub-out threaded at the mixer. They're usually soldered. No adapter, and the other decision-maker doesn't want to cut the drywall on the other side, so sounds like I'm left with these two options. Thanks, friends!
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Oct 19, 2020 01:12
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Sneeing Emu posted:No adapter, and the other decision-maker doesn't want to cut the drywall on the other side, so sounds like I'm left with these two options. Thanks, friends! Is a a closet or something important on the other side?
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Oct 19, 2020 02:12
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therobit posted:Is a a closet or something important on the other side? Its just a wall for the shower piping pretty much, the toilet is on the other side. I've made my case for putting in an access panel there, but so far it has been denied.
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Oct 19, 2020 02:32
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Sneeing Emu posted:Its just a wall for the shower piping pretty much, the toilet is on the other side. I've made my case for putting in an access panel there, but so far it has been denied. Ok so what you do is you get your partner too drunk and stoned to consent and then ask them if you can stick a new rough in into the wall. Then you do it while they are recovering from the hangover. When they wake up it's fait accompli! Or, you know, jut promise to patch the drywall when you are done. If you're careful you might even not have to cut another piece.
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Oct 19, 2020 04:56
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therobit posted:Ok so what you do is you get your partner too drunk and stoned to consent and then ask them if you can stick a new rough in into the wall. Then you do it while they are recovering from the hangover. When they wake up it's fait accompli! Who hasn't accidentally punched a hole in the drywall when working on the other side?
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Oct 19, 2020 05:09
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Not sure if this thread or the HVAC would be better for my issue, but because  I think here is the better bet. Over the weekend it was cold in my house so I decided to turn on the heat for a bit, for the first time since about March. My house has a natural gas boiler, indirect water heater, and two zones for hot water heating, the second floor with three big radiators and first floor with three baseboard units. I only started the second floor and it heated up as I'm used to it doing, with no noises from any of the radiators. When I went down to the first floor after about an hour, I heard a weird hissing sound, almost like an air leak from a tire. I couldn't find the source of it until I checked the basement, where the sound was actually running water and coming out of my boiler.  The arrow is slight off, but it was from the black pipe starting from the left rear top of the boiler, the relief valve? I turned the boiler off and shut off the water going into the expansion tank and that stopped the flood. I've called some plumbers but not gotten any call backs, so I'm looking into if there's anything I can do in the meantime (I'm staying at my partner's house so at least I have access to hot water). From some research it seems one reason for this could be because of a bad expansion tank. But the posts about that seem to be more of a drip than a flow of water. If it is the expansion tank, wouldn't I notice this sooner since the boiler runs every day to heat up the water for the water heater? Or would the additional load from also running the heat be enough to do this? Is there anything else I should check while I try to evict the spiders that have been making this area of the house their home?
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Oct 19, 2020 19:35
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Is it possible that my gas burner on my water heater is malfunctioning? Again. I came back from a vacation and the water settings in my shower and sink that used to be scalding hot are now either just "hot" or not even that. My shower is literally right next to my water heater so I doubt it's a matter of getting through the pipes. I can check this tomorrow in the daytime but I'm not sure what to look for. What I do know is I had similar issue a few months ago and a plumber replaced the burner under the water heater. Part was covered by the labor wasn't. It's not an old water heater.
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Oct 20, 2020 05:11
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Would this be a Rheem 40-gallon PowerVent built in 2017? By any chance?
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Oct 20, 2020 05:17
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Jaxyon posted:Is it possible that my gas burner on my water heater is malfunctioning? Again. We need make and model numbers and stuff to help troubleshoot. Is there any kind of error indicator on it you can check for issues?
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Oct 20, 2020 05:26
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SpartanIvy posted:We need make and model numbers and stuff to help troubleshoot. Is there any kind of error indicator on it you can check for issues? Its check on that in the morning, it's placed outside my house. Thank you for replying though.
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Oct 20, 2020 05:28
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SpartanIvy posted:We need make and model numbers and stuff to help troubleshoot. Is there any kind of error indicator on it you can check for issues? It's a Whirlpool 40T6-40UNG 400. He's got an error code box and it's flashing all sorts of codes, including failed temp sensor and failed burner, etc. Gonna call out the company that did the burner replacement which was like 6mos ago.
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Oct 20, 2020 19:50
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