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melon cat posted:2004 Highlander again. What kind of radiator-friendly solution can I use to clean out this coolant reservoir? It's filled with old deposits/sediment. I don't think this reservoir has ever been removed and cleaned out before. Also hoping to avoid a trip to the hardware store so was wondering about any common household cleaners that I could use for this (without creating a chemical gas reaction that could kill me). Hot water + dish detergent + a handful of small rocks Blend ingredients Shake 60-seconds Serve
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Oct 17, 2020 03:36
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PainterofCrap posted:Hot water + dish detergent + a handful of small rocks This did the trick. Dish detergent wasn't as effective but overnight soak in vinegar + gravel maraca cleaned it up nice and good. Thanks dudes.
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Oct 17, 2020 17:47
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You know, I'd be tempted to use one of those bendable bottle brushes. Say that 3 times fast.
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Oct 17, 2020 19:03
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05 Escape v6 Changing the dying water pump tomorrow. Do I have to buy G-05 coolant or can I buy the yellow coolant that works in "all vehicles" and "mixes with all coolants."
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Oct 18, 2020 19:13
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My wife and I have decided to go down from two cars to one and will be selling my 2011 Ford Escape, because I own it outright and it's in good if not immaculate shape. Is there an idiot's guide to selling a car that you all would recommend (getting it appraised, selling to a person vs a dealership, paperwork requirements etc.)? E: We live in Pennsylvania if that matters, though close enough to NJ that we could sell it there as well. C-Euro fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 18, 2020 21:46
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Kelly or NADA will give you a decently accurate book value, both as outright sale & trade-in. First, see what Cars.com or whatever are willing to offer (hint: not much above trade-in). List it on FB Marketplace. It has taken over for Craigslist, which now charges. CL is 90% dealers now. Consider listing it on eBay, though it'll cost you $50-$500 if it sells there (a fixed charge if it doesn't sell, and a premium based on sale price if it does). I have had good luck in the past four months, both buying & selling through FB Marketplace. Typically, if you sell to a reselling service, you'll get a lot less money, but also less hassle. Selling on your own will get you far more money, but - at the risk of making the understatement of the year- buyers are a fickle bunch. They'll come Kramering in to your ad, promise and positivity shooting out like R.Crumb cartoon sweat, swearing they'll pay asking price and begging you to turn away any other offer, then >poof<. In other words, summon vast reserves of patience.
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Oct 18, 2020 21:54
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Oct 18, 2020 23:19
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unbuttonedclone posted:05 Escape v6 Go with g-05.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:27
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C-Bangin' it 
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PainterofCrap posted:Kelly or NADA will give you a decently accurate book value, both as outright sale & trade-in. They'll also look at the tiniest barely noticeable stone chip or dent and proclaim for all to hear that 'you said this car was in better shape than this' and demand you drop the price by 500 bucks.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:46
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'04 Highlander V6. Again. Noticed this old rot on this cable while inspecting the rear disc brakes:  What cable is this? It's definitely not the hydraulic hose for the caliper. It connects to the back of the wheel hub. I'm guessing it's for the parking brake? Top view for reference. And here's the other non-rotted side for reference. This loving vehicle, man. More adventures from a decade+ of previous owner neglect. melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 15:31
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It does appear to be the e-brake. Looks like the outer housing was rubbing against the rotating assembly at some point. If the action is still good (e-brake is able to be set & released, verify the action at the brake) then treat the rust & wrap the cable sheath. If it sticks, you'll eventually need to replace that cable assembly on that side. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Oct 20, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 15:41
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melon cat posted:Yeah, online lookieloos are infuriatingly flakey and it has only gotten worse with things like Facebook Marketplace that make it easy to respond to an ad with the click of a button. And even if they do show up you might have to deal with driving over to whatever sketch-rear end "mechanic" they want to do a pre-purchase inspection with. For some reason people are just afraid to say "No thanks" and prefer to ghost you after they've strung you along for weeks. It might be a bit easier to find a buyer now since COVID-related logistics disruptions are affecting inventory, but even then the selling process is extremely annoying. Try to sell within your own network of friends and family first to help reduce the bullshit factor. wesleywillis posted:They'll also look at the tiniest barely noticeable stone chip or dent and proclaim for all to hear that 'you said this car was in better shape than this' and demand you drop the price by 500 bucks. For better or for worse, try looking at selling it to Carvana. My wife's old 2009/131k miles Impala has been sitting for about a year, needs a whole bunch of work. Was going to sell it but with the amount of work it needs I wasn't expecting to get much (tires, water pump weeping, oil leaks, airbag light, coupled with typical GM falling-apart and new england rust). Trans was starting to slip too which was the reason we moved on from it. I was upfront with the questions they asked and now supposedly a man will show up with a tow truck and a $1900 check tomorrow as long as it starts and is drivable. It's more than I was expecting to get and trying to sell this PP would have been a nightmare because it probably won't pass state inspection as-is, so I'm taking the money and running.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:30
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I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but here goes: I'm poor and purchasing my first new car. I have no idea what I'm doing and don't want to be ripped off. Its a 2021 Hyundai Accent (automatic IVT - I never learned how to drive a standard). Here is the deal I was offered. I feel like they made (I told them I needed a week to think about it) MSRP: $17,370.00 <=== this seems higher, than the SE CVT as advertised on the company website listed at $16,495.00 - Selling Price: $16,678.00 - Rebate: $1,000.00 So: $15,678.00 is the base cost. Govt Fee: $345.00 Proc/Doc Fee: $499.00 Lifetime BPP Purchase $1,195.00 <===this seems to be some service add-on that I can refuse, I am considering removing it Total Taxes: $1,102.32 So: $18,819.00 total I'm putting a little over 20% down on a 60 month loan at a pretty decent rate. I'm confident I can make the monthly payments on this. I'm just looking for a small, affordable car to commute and make the occasional long distance holiday trip to visit family. No kids. Is this a good deal for me? Let me know what you guys think. Sorry in advance if I'm breaking any AI rules.
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Oct 20, 2020 03:41
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Yeah, the BPP is of little actual value, it's just additional profit for the dealer (assuming it's this). If "a pretty decent rate" is over 3%, shop around more. Credit Unions offer pretty good rates. I don't know enough about pricing of Hyundais to advise anything on the rest.
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Oct 20, 2020 03:53
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Deteriorata posted:Yeah, the BPP is of little actual value, it's just additional profit for the dealer (assuming it's this). Thanks. Interest rate is under 3%
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Oct 20, 2020 03:55
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What state are you in? Some of those fees might be negotiable. I thought there was a car buying thread in BFC but I can't find it. edit: It's in Ask / Tell and has BFC in the title  https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Oct 20, 2020 05:26
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Charles posted:What state are you in? Some of those fees might be negotiable. Maryland. Deteriorita actually got the dealership lol. I'll move this post to the other thread. Thanks.
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Oct 20, 2020 06:03
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melon cat posted:
That's your parking brake (and you probably have a drum in hat parking brake - small drum brake within the disc). The cable is going to stretch and eventually break. Problem is, the adjuster for the cable typically needs both cables in good working order to actually work, otherwise once the one cable stretches beyond a certain point (or snaps), the adjuster goes "dafuq" and you have no parking brake. If that's the only spot it's ripped in, shoot some lithium grease inside the sheath, wrap the poo poo out of it with electrical tape, and fix it once you track down a new cable
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Oct 20, 2020 06:06
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BigRoman posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but here goes: Why not get a used car that's only a couple of years old? New cars lose half their value the moment you drive them off the lot. Why not take advantage of that and get a good, young, used car?
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Oct 20, 2020 09:33
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BigRoman posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but here goes: Check the laws in your state regarding dealer fees. It should be a simple google search. In Massachusetts dealers are very tightly regulated about what they can charge, but even large chains will still try to screw people.
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Oct 20, 2020 13:39
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Is there any conclusive opinion on the reliability of the newest generation Chrysler Pacifica/Voyager, specifically the 2018/2019 models? I see there was some issues with the infotainment system and suspension in the 2017, and a few complaints about ticking from the engine and transmission issues. They are so much cheaper than the other things on the market I really hope they have worked out the kinks.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:41
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spankmeister posted:Why not get a used car that's only a couple of years old? New cars lose half their value the moment you drive them off the lot. Why not take advantage of that and get a good, young, used car? Have you actually priced a used car recently? One to two year old used cars are cheaper than new, but not by much depending on the car. "Losing half the value as soon as you drive it off the lot" hasn't been true in at least my entire adult life, if not longer. I do agree that the most attractive competitors to a new Accent are 1-2 year old cars like a Civic or Mazda3, and it would be worth the OP's time trying some of those out too. I would expect a similar total transaction price, and possibly a slightly higher interest rate.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you actually priced a used car recently? One to two year old used cars are cheaper than new, but not by much depending on the car. "Losing half the value as soon as you drive it off the lot" hasn't been true in at least my entire adult life, if not longer. Ok that's fair. I'm not too familiar with the US market and was reasoning from my own market where that still holds true (mostly due to a ridiculous luxury tax on vehicles driving prices up). 16-17 grand sticker price on a new car on the lot is a dream for me lol.
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Oct 20, 2020 16:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you actually priced a used car recently? One to two year old used cars are cheaper than new, but not by much depending on the car. "Losing half the value as soon as you drive it off the lot" hasn't been true in at least my entire adult life, if not longer. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 20, 2020 |
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Oct 20, 2020 19:14
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It was a lot more true prior to 08. Many luxury cars lost half the purchase price after a year or two. There were cars from Honda and Toyota that basically didn't depreciate until they were 3. Luxury cars still mostly depreciate hard but lots of stuff doesn't seem to.
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Oct 20, 2020 20:50
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I bought my (09) Corolla in September '08 and about a year later, there were used ones with slightly more km on them for sale on Autotrader for more than what I paid for mine new. Nowwwwwww I don't know what the actual sale price was, just that the asking prices was more. Don't know if that had anything to do with the economy going to poo poo, but in Canada, it didn't get nearly as bad as in Americastan.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:51
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Kia/Hyundai have extra incentive (at least in the US) to buy new over used - their 10 year/100k warranty only applies to the first registered owner. The subsequent only get a 5 year/60k warranty.
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Oct 20, 2020 22:29
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Goober Peas posted:Kia/Hyundai have extra incentive (at least in the US) to buy new over used - their 10 year/100k warranty only applies to the first registered owner. The subsequent only get a 5 year/60k warranty. Unless you get a CPO. Dodged that bullet when my wife's Elantra ate an engine.
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Oct 21, 2020 00:41
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opengl128 posted:Unless you get a CPO. Dodged that bullet when my wife's Elantra ate an engine. What window is CPO worth paying extra for? Been looking at some cars sitting at 75k out of 100k for the CPO warranty and they can cost 3-4 grand more than non-CPO options.
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Oct 21, 2020 02:11
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Is there a combination jump starter/air compressor worth a drat? Or am I better of getting two separate things? I have two sedans, so I don't need anything extremely powerful. I'd just like something around the garage in case I have trouble starting a car or if I have a flat tire. Can I get some recommendations? I'd like to stay under $100 if possible.
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Oct 21, 2020 02:57
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I have a tiny lithium ion jump pack (whole case is smaller than a half gallon of milk) and a separate 12v compressor because I couldn't find a decent combo one. Can PM links. I bought a CAT branded jump box plus compressor from Costco and it was so loving garbage as to not even hold a charge for three days before I needed it, not to mention it was a giant chonk thing that definitely had a lot of empty space inside to seem more robust. I did get a cute pic out of it though:  Meanwhile the little lithium ion brick has been used five or six times and hasn't even dropped one bar on the charge indicator.
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Oct 21, 2020 04:14
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I think you're better off getting two separate ones, but you're also going to be hard pressed to get both, and good ones, for under $100. If nothing else, jump packs have gotten pretty inexpensive - the good ones are ~$100 on amazon, and lots are serviceable for less. I'd be tempted to suggest: Get the best jump pack you can, and get a deal (when you can) on a 12v compressor, which you can then run off of the car or the jump pack. (I had this one for a couple of years, generally very happy with until the battery swole up, then just recently got this one. I'd probably still have bought the first one because it was pretty definitely my fault, it lived under a seat in my Jeep parked outside.) My one pro-tip on compressors, check with local body shops if they have any for sale / that they might give away for a sixer. I've got two or three that were retrieved from totaled cars at body shops. The ones that Hyundai ships are good, for sure, and I suspect most of them are.
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Oct 21, 2020 04:38
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Krakkles posted:I think you're better off getting two separate ones, but you're also going to be hard pressed to get both, and good ones, for under $100. Yeah. My jump brick was straight up $90. Compressor was only $30 though.
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Oct 21, 2020 06:56
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so since this is the stupid question thread after all, how many 18650 cells does it take to jump a car? i have a literal bucket of em out of old power tools, i was gonna build an e-bike but it didn't pan out. perhaps they could form a jump pack instead, or electrocute me to death
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Oct 21, 2020 07:11
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FWIW, the other day a coworker's cheap jump brick could barely get interior and dash lights on another coworker's car. They kept refusing my help until the brick went dead. I broke out the jumper cables and his car turned over (slowly, but it started on the second try - 2017 Honda SUV of some kind, original battery). Get a good one if you're gonna get one... not a $25 one from a grocery store. And don't leave them in the heat. If you're gonna keep them in your car in the summer, keep them in the spare tire area or some other place where it stays relatively cool compared to the rest of the car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Oct 21, 2020 |
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Oct 21, 2020 07:19
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There is a very strong possibility that in a few hours when I get off work I will be buying a 2014 370z. Phone research shows it to be a well liked car by owners, and I don't see a lot of negative press. Am I making a huge mistake and have overlooked something obvious?
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Oct 21, 2020 08:26
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Only negative I’ve heard is it’s like you’re sitting in a submarine.
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Oct 21, 2020 17:40
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Minto Took posted:Only negative I’ve heard is it’s like you’re sitting in a submarine. Im 6 foot 290 lbs. The ridge on the side of the seat is awkward getting in, but it's still easier than my Scion was. Once inside, I do not feel cramped other than the seat digs into my hips a tad. Also: It's too late to prevent it now 
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Oct 21, 2020 18:06
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"ooops, guess I'll do a skid now" I find the ergonomics of that entire family of vehicles to be intensely uncomfortable but if that applied to you, you would've jumped out on the test drive. Beyond that I'd hope that Nissan has worked out the bugs by now since they've been building that Z forever and a day.
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Oct 21, 2020 18:15
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Micromancer posted:Im 6 foot 290 lbs. The ridge on the side of the seat is awkward getting in, but it's still easier than my Scion was. Once inside, I do not feel cramped other than the seat digs into my hips a tad. Hey, look at that. The hood is a good shape and size for a hirsute model to recline seductively upon.
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Oct 21, 2020 18:55
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