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Collateral Damage posted:I had a Define R3 which had probably 3 or 4 completely different setups in it over 10 years or so before I switched from ATX to ITX. I think I either had an r3 or an r4. Things about it drive me nuts though - like you have to completely unscrew the front fan casing to get the dust filters out, or the psu filter only being accessible from the rear. That design definitely improved over time.
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Oct 30, 2020 02:00
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Romes128 posted:ah, I see you've never broken a tempered glass side panel before. I'd argue that comes under a "bells and whistles" feature of a case. I guess full size ATX cases probably age better as outside of airflow and maybe making sections more accessible there's not a huge amount that can still be done in terms of innovation with them.
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Oct 30, 2020 08:44
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Vigil for Virgil posted:I'd argue that comes under a "bells and whistles" feature of a case. Is it really a bell and or whistle when like 80% of new cases nowadays have it? Apropos of that $350 case though I did see the ks mention the possibility of a large custom fit heatsink for semi passive CPU/gpu cooling; I could see that being worth $400+ to the right (extremely noise sensitive) person. Getting universal mounting for gpus that also handles vram and power delivery while not getting obsoleted in 2 generations is incredibly difficult though.
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Oct 31, 2020 01:06
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Been reading too much r/sffpc and having a hard time not pulling the trigger on a T1 preorder now   Gorgeous!
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Oct 31, 2020 12:30
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Sphyre posted:Been reading too much r/sffpc and having a hard time not pulling the trigger on a T1 preorder now Welp, just ordered the black/silver T1. gently caress. Now I need to actually figure out a build and the rad/aio game, huh.
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Oct 31, 2020 13:27
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The way those tubes press against each other makes me nervous.. The one thing you don't want to cram into poo poo is liquid filled tubes.
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Oct 31, 2020 14:28
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The T1 is gorgeous and I’m super tempted, but I want to wait to see more from the P1.
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Oct 31, 2020 14:55
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Vigil for Virgil posted:The way those tubes press against each other makes me nervous.. It's not like they're going to vibrate and saw through each other, though. It's honestly not the tubes I'd worry about, but making sure that you're not stressing any of the fittings/joints (which mostly just means cutting a correct length of tubing).
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Oct 31, 2020 15:15
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DrDork posted:It's not like they're going to vibrate and saw through each other, though. It's honestly not the tubes I'd worry about, but making sure that you're not stressing any of the fittings/joints (which mostly just means cutting a correct length of tubing). This. That tubing is EK's ZMT, which is a 16/10 and super robust. Aside from intentionally pushing a pin through the rubber, you're not getting leaks from the tubes. I do recommend using more fittings to avoid some of the dodgier bends though. As thick as they are, they have a wide turning radius to avoid kinking.
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Oct 31, 2020 16:07
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Don’t kink shame.
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Oct 31, 2020 16:57
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Weren't we just complaining about expensive cases? 
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Oct 31, 2020 18:04
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jink posted:Weren't we just complaining about expensive cases? The T1 is like $120 cheaper than that other case we were talking about, which according to my calculations makes it a bargain.
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Oct 31, 2020 18:26
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VulgarandStupid posted:Don’t kink shame. Nothing wrong with your partner having a wide turning radius, just be sure to check the mirrors before backup up and watch for folks passing on the right. jink posted:Weren't we just complaining about expensive cases? I think $230 is decidedly average for SFF. Things like the NR200 are the "budget" end, though the NR200 is definitely a winner for price/value proposition. I do kinda want a T1, but I need to finish my Ncase first. Getting close: EK has shown what the 3080 FE blocks look like.  
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Oct 31, 2020 23:36
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Really glad that I cancelled my T1 preorder and got an M1 instead tbh, especially after seeing power numbers for the RTX3000 series. The T1 is a very aesthetically pleasing case for sure and I really wanted to make the space grey case work for me. I couldn't come up with any air-cooling solutions that seemed appropriate for the magnitude of the hardware I wanted to put into it though 
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Nov 1, 2020 01:09
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VorpalFish posted:The T1 is like $120 cheaper than that other case we were talking about, which according to my calculations makes it a bargain. haha, fine. I agree that it is cheaper... but still more than the realm of "affordable $100 cases". Just pullin' peoples chains here... I've spent more than these cases in water cooling fittings... so I am not the gauge of 'affordable'!  (save me)
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Nov 1, 2020 02:50
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Warmachine posted:Nothing wrong with your partner having a wide turning radius, just be sure to check the mirrors before backup up and watch for folks passing on the right. O gently caress. e: The shortness of that might actually solve the main issue I had with T1 watercooling, lack of space for a proper DDC pump + small res combo. ijyt fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Nov 1, 2020 |
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Nov 1, 2020 04:38
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ijyt posted:O gently caress. Speaking of, what are people's general thoughts on the small combo units, like these https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Pump-Reservoir/Hydro-X-Series-XD3-RGB-Pump-Reservoir-Combo/p/CX-9040003-WW instead of the larger colum based ones?
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Nov 1, 2020 16:01
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DrDork posted:Speaking of, what are people's general thoughts on the small combo units, like these https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Pump-Reservoir/Hydro-X-Series-XD3-RGB-Pump-Reservoir-Combo/p/CX-9040003-WW instead of the larger colum based ones? They seem pretty neat, Optimum Tech featured a similar one that's also the CPU block: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBIWgKmwr68 I think it's a pretty great idea for super compact builds, but I'd have to really trust the seals on it.
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Nov 1, 2020 17:30
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Finally cleaned up the wires in my Ryzen 5 Ophion Evo build. Ryzen 5 3600 16GB DDR4 Gigabyte B550I AORUS PRO AX Corsair SF600 Raijintek Ophion Evo Old AMD 570 RX Old 250GB SSD  
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Nov 2, 2020 00:43
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All y'all have such cool-looking builds. Mine lives behind my bigass TV, so there's no point in making it aesthetically pleasing. It also needs to be skinny to fit back there because my apartment layout has a weird alcove for the TV. Pulling the Node 202 from back there without bumping into and scraping up the drywall is a bit of a challenge, I can tell you. It was time to finally build the Ryzen 7 3700X upgrade this weekend. Excitement! I remembered that the Node 202's PCIe riser is 3.0. This wasn't a problem for the RTX 3080 FE I had living in my pre-upgrade setup (i5-7600), as the PCIe slot on the motherboard was 3.0 too. However, the upgrade included the Gigabyte B550i AORUS PRO AX, which of course has a PCIe 4.0 slot. Concerned, I started looking up whether this could be a problem. Fractal Design's knowledgebase has an article indicating that this could cause an issue (no video output) unless the slot is set to Gen 3 in the BIOS. I also found a reddit post from a user with a Node 202, this mobo, and an RTX 3080, confirming he spent three hours troubleshooting everything until he found out it was the PCIe 3.0 riser having problems with the PCIe 4.0 slot BIOS default setting of Auto. Nuts. The straightforward solution is to directly connect the video card to the PCIe slot and boot into BIOS to configure this setting. As you can guess, you cannot mount the motherboard in the Node 202 and also install the video card directly into the slot. I also did not have anywhere near enough space behind the TV to safely do this. Luckily, I have another desktop computer in a much roomier area of my apartment, from which I could borrow the monitor, keyboard, and power cable. So, I installed the CPU and video card into the motherboard, sat precariously on its box. Then, I connected only the cables needed to power on the system to the motherboard (ATX power, CPU power, power button switch). A little box/case/external cable Tetris later, I got the external power, keyboard, and monitor connected up. Behold, something that should have made me question my life choices:  The monstrosity turned on, POSTed, and entered the BIOS as smooth as you please. I was able to change the PCIe slot setting and enable XMP while I was there. After a quick reboot and confirmation that the setting stuck, I shut it down and disassembled everything to get ready for the real assembly. Everything proceeded without a hitch, miraculously. Please forgive the horrifying lack of properly planned cable management, especially in the gap between motherboard and PSU.  I hauled the completed build behind my TV, not slipping a disc in the process, and connected everything up. Not only did it boot up into Windows without a hitch, the digital license was already activated and good to go. The factory BIOS was several versions behind, so I thought I'd upgrade it to add Zen 3 support for kicks, plus I heard that the newer BIOS might help with stabilizing CPU idle clocks/temps. As the system rebooted to apply the new BIOS, a thought occurred to me: "BIOS settings revert to default in a firmware upgrade." poo poo. I held my breath, praying that I would not have to do the above rigamarole again. The "no signal" animation on my TV sat for a few seconds, several seconds, more seconds than I was comfortable with. The AORUS logo* appeared. I slammed the DEL key desperately. The BIOS appeared, and sure enough the settings had reverted to default. I had no issues reenabling XMP and setting the PCIe slot mode to Gen 3. Thank goodness for that! ... Wait. Does that mean I never really needed to change the PCIe slot mode from the default Auto?  * Does anyone else think the AORUS logo looks like an eagle with a beefy arm?
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Nov 2, 2020 05:35
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Is... is that not what it's supposed to be?
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Nov 2, 2020 07:28
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Could also be an eagle making a face like this 
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Nov 2, 2020 07:56
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Nice, HappyCapybaraFamily, Glad you got it working. So I have a Cougar QBX, which is a really great case for the money. I have a new PSU and RTX3070 on the way so I've been considering getting a smaller case at the same time. Everything I can find is either barely smaller and therefore not really worth the $/effort, or crazy expensive, which is hard to justify when my current case is fine. I've looked at the ncase m1, nr200, Thor, Dan case, louqe, Sliger sm570. I currently have 1x 3.5" drive and 2x 2.5" SSD, that 3.5" drive bay is really limiting my options but I don't really want to ditch it. Anyone have any recommendations? Hashtag Banterzone posted:Finally cleaned up the wires in my Ryzen 5 Ophion Evo build. Looks good!
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Nov 2, 2020 12:39
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You can use one of the bottom fan mounts for the 3.5 drive on the Sliger. I have a 580 and love it. It’s only good if you have an aio watercooler though. I also just went with all vented side panels.
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Nov 2, 2020 12:54
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unimportantguy posted:Is... is that not what it's supposed to be? I think it’s just an edgy G, for Gaming of course.
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Nov 2, 2020 13:06
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Tyro posted:Nice, HappyCapybaraFamily, Glad you got it working. My recommendation is if you’re happy with your current case, don’t change it, otherwise the NR200 is the no brainer when it comes to price. The main issue with SFF cases for a while has been that they’re cheap and crap, expensive and good, or in too many cases (like the Circle Pro), expensive and crap.
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Nov 2, 2020 13:09
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Yeah I'm air-cooled, so as long as the 3070 doesn't drive temps up too much (it shouldn't, it's only about a 45 watt increase and I don't think I've gotten my current GPU above about 72 C) I should probably stick with what I've got. And I'm still using the stock Wraith Spire so there's some room to improve the CPU cooling if needed. Thanks y'all. Saving me money.
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Nov 2, 2020 13:34
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Actually using the drive cage smh  Glad to hear it worked out, how are the CPU temps after upgrading?
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Nov 2, 2020 14:22
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ijyt posted:O gently caress. This is the space left with a EK block on a reference 3090 board. The 3080 FE board watercooled would be even shorter. Might just get a T1 after all.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WVpW497vTU
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Nov 2, 2020 16:04
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Arzachel posted:Actually using the drive cage smh Haha, I could probably gain some more cable-cramming space if I just taped my SSD to the case, huh I ran Assassin's Creed Odyssey, my most CPU-intensive game (I think) for a bit over an hour. Absolute peak was 82°C, but it looked like it remained around 75° most of the time  GPU peaked at 83 but hovered mainly at 80 (so, no change there, as expected).4K60 on Ultra High preset   Did some RDR2 benchmarking. Gained about 2 fps for the average (lmao) but more than doubled my minimums, so at least the game looks smoother overall edit: CPU idles at 45 normally, randomly spiking up to the 50s and dropping almost immediately back down to 45. I guess that's a known quirk of this processor though. Doesn't take very long to drop to idle temps after a long, hot gaming session either
HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 00:19
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Haha, I could probably gain some more cable-cramming space if I just taped my SSD to the case, huh What are GPU thermals like? I didn’t realize the node 202 could fit a 3080. Also what air cooler? Looks vaguely like a NH-L12S but I could be wrong.
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Nov 3, 2020 01:06
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buglord posted:What are GPU thermals like? I didn’t realize the node 202 could fit a 3080. Also what air cooler? Looks vaguely like a NH-L12S but I could be wrong. The RTX 3080 Founders Edition is a perfect fit in this case, and it even allows enough room for two 120x25mm fans! I've got two Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 fans as intake for the GPU chamber, which I've got running at a constant 56%. GPU peaks at 83°C under sustained load, but mostly stays at 80-81. Idles just under 50 even on warmer days, and the Noctuas are whisper quiet. Much quieter and better at cooling then the Fractal Design Venturi HP-12s I originally had. I tried undervolting the GPU, but the best I've achieved is get the peak temp down to 82° and introducing a bit of freezing and crashing to my games, with 1920MHz at 900mV So I've just run stock settings for stability, and I'll have to live with the extra degree of heat.The CPU cooler and fan are the ID-COOLING IS-60 with its stock fan replaced with a Noctua NF-A12x15, which was recommended to me by others in this very thread. Even quieter than the case fans somehow even under load, and the cooler height is just perfect to reach fresh air outside the case even with the filter installed. By the way, my previous ASrock motherboard let me set my case fan speed based on either CPU or motherboard temp. The Gigabyte Smart Fan 5 software seems to pin all fan speeds to CPU temp. Am I just not seeing the option to use other temps to set my case fan speeds? Or is there some other software I should use to control my fan curves? HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 03:24
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ijyt posted:Might just get a T1 after all.
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Nov 3, 2020 03:34
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:By the way, my previous ASrock motherboard let me set my case fan speed based on either CPU or motherboard temp. The Gigabyte Smart Fan 5 software seems to pin all fan speeds to CPU temp. Am I just not seeing the option to use other temps to set my case fan speeds? Or is there some other software I should use to control my fan curves? Answered my own question. Rem0o's Fan Control is what you want. I confirm it works with the Gigabyte B550i AORUS PRO AX. I can finally tie my case fans to GPU temperature! It also lets me drive each GPU fan independently should I so choose.
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Nov 6, 2020 18:20
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Answered my own question. Rem0o's Fan Control is what you want. I confirm it works with the Gigabyte B550i AORUS PRO AX. I can finally tie my case fans to GPU temperature! It also lets me drive each GPU fan independently should I so choose. To build on this some motherboards have a temperature_in header. My motherboard is an Asus x470-prime for anyone curious, yes its not itx but full size atx. I got a $10 temperature sensor cable from Amazon that I fit between my waterblock and gpu and tied a case fan header to that. Works a treat to spin up the fans on my 240mm rad that cools my gpu. The cpu stays air cooled cuz it doesn't shunt out the heat that a gpu does.
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Nov 6, 2020 18:38
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Answered my own question. Rem0o's Fan Control is what you want. I confirm it works with the Gigabyte B550i AORUS PRO AX. I can finally tie my case fans to GPU temperature! It also lets me drive each GPU fan independently should I so choose. Wow that's a very cool find! I've had to latch all of my fans to CPU temp with my ASRock built in curves...    The curves work, but this was months of tweaking. Now the fans stay at near idle most of the time and start ramping up in 'stages'. Under gaming the fans are moving rather quickly, which I don't mind, it was the non gaming time that drove me nuts with WHIRRRRRR. I'll give that Fan Control a try!
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Nov 6, 2020 19:07
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Waiting for the Focus SGX to come in today, and then I think I can port my work machine into the NR200. This is adorably tiny. I wish Threadripper could get smaller, but Meshify C will have to do there. In terms of fan configs, with a Fuma 2, I'm thinking of actually dumping the rear fan entirely and only keeping the fans on the Fuma. The only reason a GPU is even in the system is because Ryzen doesn't have an iGPU, so don't really care about its thermals.
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Nov 6, 2020 21:56
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movax posted:Waiting for the Focus SGX to come in today, and then I think I can port my work machine into the NR200. This is adorably tiny. I wish Threadripper could get smaller, but Meshify C will have to do there. There's a good chance the rear fan won't fit with the fuma 2 and in general it seems to do very little anyways. At least one top fan seems to be pretty good though.
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Nov 7, 2020 00:16
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movax posted:Waiting for the Focus SGX to come in today, and then I think I can port my work machine into the NR200. This is adorably tiny. I wish Threadripper could get smaller, but Meshify C will have to do there. My fuma 2 heatsink is literally right up against the back panel so unless a 1mm thick fan exists you can't fit anything there anyways.
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Nov 7, 2020 00:27
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horchata posted:My fuma 2 heatsink is literally right up against the back panel so unless a 1mm thick fan exists you can't fit anything there anyways. If you flip it the other way you can maybe probably get a 25mm fan in there since the heatpipes are shifted back. But that can impact other clearances depending on socket placement.
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Nov 7, 2020 00:33
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